Archiv der Kategorie: Mens watch

New Timezone: Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer

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Oris has a Worldtimer in his collection since 1997. Its design and functions were so popular amongst fans and watch afficionados that Oris hasn’t changed much over the course of these 20 years. But we won’t deny that the name might be a little confusing because classically, this feature would be classified as a second timezone and not as a world time function. It came with a sub dial for the second timezone including a day/night indicator and was easy to read. This original watch featured plus and minus pushers on the side of the case that when pressed adjusted the local time forwards or backwards in one-hour jumps, without the need to pull out the crown or stop the running of the watch. The date would keep track of the time adjustment, even if that meant going backwards over midnight.

In the new Big Crown ProPilot Woldtimer Oris has maintained the original design overall while taking the world time complication to a new level. Basically, this watch has the same functionality as the 1997 innovation, but now the pushers are cone and local time is adjusted by rotating the bezel. Rotating the bezel clockwise moves the central hour hand forward in one-hour jumps; counter clockwise back, also in one-hour jumps.
The design is a little cleaner due to the disappearance of the pushers and the new Worldtimer sports a Big Crown ProPilot case, therefore belonging to Oris‘ pilot’s watch collection. It features the signature coin-edged bezel that makes it easy to grip when adjusting local time. The dial measures generous 44.7 mm in diameter and falls somewhere in the middle of the collection which cases range from 41 to 47 mm. The dial is very legible through its size and clean design. Over the dial lies a domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
The case is water resistant up to 10 bar.

Oris offers two versions of the Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer. The first has an anthracite dial and a polished top ring on the bezel, the second has a black dial and a brushed top ring. The day/night indicator is still there; it is placed in the sub dial for the second timezone, opposite the date window. When the small window is light it is day in the second timezone, at night the window appears dark.
The watch is powered by the Oris Kal. 690, which is based on the ETA 2836-2. It can be seen through the mineral glass in the case back. The calibre features, as mentioned, an adjustable hour hand for local time, a subsidiary second time zone with hour and minute hands as well as a day/night indicator at 3 o’clock, a date window at the same position, and small seconds at 9 o’clock.

The Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer comes with one of three different straps. The leather and textile strap feature a stageless length adjustment system that’s based on the airplane safety-belt principle. Naturally, there will also be a stainless steel bracelet.
Oris is known for its great price-performance ratio and the new Worldtimer is no exception. The watches with the leather and stainless steel bracelet cost 3.400€, one with a textile bracelet costs 3.200€.

The De Bethune DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite

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Futuristic designs combined with a tourbillon have become some kind of a specialty of De Bethune. Fans love the distinctive designs and it has to be said that these special creations fit seamlessly with the other models in the collection which offers other spacy wristwatches too.
The newest tourbillon, that answers to such a description is the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Meteroite, a watch, which is equipped with a dial made from an actual meteorite. May this be the ultimate watch for the space enthusiast?

This watch is not for the faint of heart, just look at the stunning, truly galactic colours. For me, it wasn’t obvious at first sight – the design is just too stunning -, I had to take a second look, but the case of the DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite is blue. Of a deep, rich blue to be exact and it doesn’t come from a PVD coating. De Bethune created the colour in the same process that is used to blue screws. And this heat-based technique has basically been applied to every visible piece of metal in this watch. And this makes for one impressive outcome.
The case measures 42.6mm in diameter and 9.7mm in height.

But the dial is undeniably at the centre of attention. It is, after all, made from an actual meteorite which landed about 5,000 years ago in Argentina, in Santiago del Estero. How cool is that? With this watch one wears a piece on the wrist which has traveled through outer space. And the looks the comet brings at the table is truly magnificent. It radiates in blue, violett and little bit of pink and not only complements the colour of the case but also reminds us of nebulas and galaxies. To intensify this marvellous effect, De Bethune has added tiny stars in white gold. It might seem impossible but with all this gorgeousness the big tourbillon at 6 o’clock can nearly be overlooked. And of course the pink gold of the hour and minute hand fits perfectly to the colours of the dial.

The watch is powered by the DB2019v3m a hand-wound nechanical tourbillon movement. The power reserve indicator is located on the back. It can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back as well as the blue movement. The power reserve indicator in pink gold contrasts beautifully with the deep blue.

The De Bethune DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite clearly isn’t a watch for everyone – it really can’t be because it is a unique piece. The watch costs 280,000 CHF and will be introduced at next year’s Baselworld.

New from Alpina: The Startimer Pilot Automatic & Startimer Pilot Quartz

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This year at Baselworld, Alpina, one of the pioneers in professional pilot watches, introduced the new Startimer Pilot Automatic. Now the manufacturer also launched quartz versions of the Startimer. Time to look at both.

Alpina has been, for many decades, a reference in professional pilot watches. In the first 50 years of the last century, Alpina was the official supplier for military aviation watches to continental air forces and since then the brand has carried on the tradition of manufacturing reliable and precise pilot timepieces.
Pilots have the strictest requirements when it comes to their instruments, the same can be said about their watches. This is why Alpina has continuously worked to provide them with the most dependable timepieces, offering characteristics such as ultimate precision, shock-resistance or anti-magnetic cases. Since its initial launch in 2011, the Startimer Pilot Collection has become the most successful line of the Brand and one of the most recognizable professional pilot watches on the market.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic

Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic

The four new Startimer Pilot Automatic maintains all the pilot features the Startimer Collection is known for. The combination of the finishing details and straight functions offer pilot watch aficionados the perfect balance between functionality and elegance on the wrist.
The AL-525G4TS6 features a titanium-colored stainless steel 44 mm case contrasting with a matte grey dial displaying the typical oversized luminous hand-applied indexes and hands with a date-window at 3 o’clock. The iconic red Alpina triangle is featured at 12 o’clock and on the seconds hand. The other three versions come in either stainless steel or rose gold-plated stainless steel featuring a dark blue or white dial. The AL-525 automatic movement boasts a 38 hour power-reserve and all watches are water-resistant up to 10 atm.

The five Startimer Pilot Quartz mix watchmaking excellence with practical functions. With these new versions, Alpina continues to respect the pilot watch and its key characteristics such as the oversized indexes and luminous treatment on the hands and the highly color-contrasted dials; major features that define a pilot’s watch and provide optimal readability. The 42mm case is available in two styles, either stainless steel or black PVD-treated stainless steel. The case is smaller than the usual 44mm pilot watches‘ cases turning it into the perfect watch for daily wear. These versions are available with different types of strap, either nylon or stainless steel bracelets.

Alpina Startimer Pilot Quartz

Alpina Startimer Pilot Quartz

Still Searching for a Summer-Watch? Look No Further!

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Eternal summer for the wrist? Nomos Glashütte has you covered because with the Aqua series life’s a beach, every day.
The new watches from Nomos Glashütte may not look like it but they come with a licence to dive. With these watches one is exactly right at the pool or beach. The Aqua-series consists of two basic models, the Ahoi and the Club. They come in four colours and different diameters to fit both men and women. That makes 16 models in total.

The Nomos Glashütte Ahoi

The Ahoi is one of the younger additions to Nomos Glashüttes collection; the watch was first introduced in 2013 and has been designed as a dive watch from the start. Unlike other watches from Nomos Glashütte the Ahoi is equipped with luminous indices and hands, a screw-drown crown and a more sturdy case. The latter got a little bit smaller in the new collection (Nomos shrunk it from 40 to 36.3mm) and the new Aqua resists water-pressure up to 20 bar or 200 meters. The Club features the same characteristics but it looks a little different. The case is rounder, a little less edgy and comes with 37mm in diameter, the same goes for the design of the dial.
The Aquis watches are powered by the ultra-thin in-house calibre DUW 3001, which was introduced by Nomos Glashütte two years ago. This automatic movement works at a frequency of 3 Hz and provides a power-reserve of 42 hours when fully wound.

I think we don’t have to talk about the Bauhaus-inspired design of the Neomatik dials – we all know them from former Nomos collections and it’s quite distinctive and well-loved. For the Ahoi-watches Nomos has broadened the hands a little bit and equipped them with a luminous colour which appears white by day and glows green in the dark.
With a water-resistance up to 200 meters the Ahoi-watches are suitable for swimmers and recreational divers. Unlike other dive watches the Aqua-watches are equipped with a sapphire case back, which allows a look in the movement.

The Nomos Glashütte Club

Both the Ahoi and the Club Neomatik come in four different colours – the silver and atlantik dials we already know from other collections. New are „Signalrot“ and „Signalblau“ (wie fell head over heals for the latter – just saying). The watches with the silver dial are straightforward classy and won’t attract any sideglances on your daily commute; one can’t say that about the bright red and blue ones. These colours pop on the wrist and stand out, but in the best way possible. All watches come with a bright orange seconds hand and a sapphire crystal.

All Nomos Aqua are equipped with a textile bracelet that resists water (salty or otherwise) just as well as the watches itself.

What can we say – we love the new Nomos Aqua-collection. These watches are classically beautiful with a fun twist and quite sturdy. Perfect for the summer and for every occasion.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel

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H. Moser & Cie. is a small, independent Swiss watchmaker, only producing about 1,200 watches every year. Many of you will possibly know H. Moser & Cie. because of its watches featuring a perpetual calendar.
The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar was first introduced by Moser in 2015, first only in a pink gold version. Now the manufacturer has presented a version in steel with a striking midnight-blue dial. But this is not the first perpetual calendar watch H. Moser & Cie. produced in a steel version – this would be the Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue Dial. With the new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar there’s once more a deep-blue dial, but in this watch the case is bolder.

The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel features a magnificent midnight-blue fumé dial. The luminescent dots on the flange and the hands filled with Super-LumiNova allow the display to be read at any time of the day.
Many manufacturers lean on complicated dials for watches featuring a perpetual calendar – H. Moser & Cie. does nothing of that sort. The dial is simple, clean and absolutely easy to read. With this decision Moser stays true to its philosophy and the previous models of this watch.
The perpetual calendar consists of two different displays. At 3 o’clock you will find a normal date window. And then there’s a small central hand which indicates the months. 1 o’clock symbolises January, 2 o’clock February and so on. The leap year-display is placed on the bottom of the watch, visible through the sapphire case back.
Apart from that you will also find a small second at 6 o’clock as well as a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. It is quite important to not lose sight of the latter because it can be a hassle to newly adjust a perpetual calendar. We would recommend to avoid that – and keep the movement wound.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in steel is powered by the HMC 800 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement. It provides a power reserve of at least seven days (or 168 hours), works at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and features a double barrel.
The movement is housed in a steel case with 42.8mm in diameter and 11.3mm in height. And: with this handsome watch you can also go scuba diving – the case is water-resistant up to 120 metres.
For the strap, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen black alligator leather.

Bolder, suited for everyday-wear and thanks to the steel case a little more affordable – with this watch H. Moser & Cie. created a beautiful timepiece many will want to have in their collection.

Ulysse Nardin Classic Dual Time Enamel

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Ulysse Nardin has added a new version to its Classic Dual Time collection. As with many of its timepieces, this Classic Dual Time Enamel watch unites three fundamentals of Ulysse Nardin: technical avant-garde with the unse of Silicium in the movement, in-house manufacturing and excellent craftsmanship with its eggshell Grand Feu enamel dial.

Grand Feu designates an enameling technique that goes back to the 17th century, and that is practiced today only by a handful of craftsmen, including those at Ulysse Nardin specialists Donzé Cadrans. its delicate beauty has an eternal quality. On the dial, oversized roman numerals and black hands set off the double date display at 2 o’clock, and the oversized small seconds at 6 o’clock.
Equipped with the patented Dual Time zone feature, this timepiece is instantly adjustable both forwards and backwards with a mere push of a button. These buttons feature at the 8 and 10 o’clock positions. When pressed, the pushers adjust the hour hand to a different time zone while the home indicator at 9 o’clock continues its 24-hour cycle. An impressive mechanical complication that is very easy to use. The time and date setting is another example of the watchmaker’s perpetual quest for innovation in action. The selector is integrated in the crown allowing to change settings without pulling and pushing the crown.

Inside the watch works a self-winding calibre, the UN-324. This in-house movement, entirely designed and produced by Ulysse Nardin, provides a 48-hour power reserve. It lies in a stainless steel case which sports a diameter of 42 mm and is water resistant to 30 metres. It is held on the wrist by a leather strap.

An enviable fusion of form and function, and a tribute to exquisite craftsmanship, the Classic Dual Time Enamel is a limited edition of 99 timepieces available exclusively at Ulysse Nardin boutiques.

Impressive: The Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33

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Omega’s pioneering spirit has taken the manufacturer on adventures beyond the earth’s atmosphere and below the surface of the ocean. Now the manufacturer launched a natural extension of its legacy in space, the Speedmaster Skywalker X-33. Designed especially for space explorers, this watch is an innovative upgrade of the Speedmaster Professional X-33 released in 1998.
The new model is powered by an advanced quartz calibre and was developed to meet the needs of astronauts and others who can appreciate its impressive variety of functions. Moreover, the European Space Agency (ESA) has approved this watch for inclusion in all of its missions.

The ceramic bezel features a chromium nitride scale. There is luminescent white Super-LumiNova with green emission on the 60-minute indicator. The 45 mm brushed case is made of titanium and features an also brushed crown and pushers.

The black dial with its white indexes and hour markers, has a central opening that allows the wearer to read the displayed digital elements such as the time in up to three different time zones, three alarms, chronograph and countdown functions, and a perpetual calendar. In addition to its analogue and digital displays, it tracks mission elapsed time and phase elapsed time.
Skeletonised black and white hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova which emtits a green light. The bold red seconds hand is clearly visible and all hands can be disengaged to allow clear reading of the digital display. The liquid crystal display (LCD) with an electroluminescent backlight features grey segments on a black background.

This Speedmaster is powered, as we mentioned above, by a multi-functional quartz chronograph movement, the in-house calibre 5619. It includes a thermo-compensated integrated circuit. This new movement was developed under an ESA patent licence based on an invention by ESA astronaut Jean-François Clervoy.

The Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 comes on a titanium bracelet, featuring a fold-over clasp. And there’s also an interactive iPad App for this watch, which you can download from the Omega website.

Nocturnal Camouflage: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Camo

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Bell & Ross has become a reference in the instrument watch field, making aviation watches and has, as part of this quest, forged links with the world of the military. As a result, the watchmaker works regularly with professional elite units of the french military.
In 2007, Bell & Ross launched the Phantom concept, the Commando collection came two years later, in 2009. The launch of these watches, which were inspired by aeronautical instrumentation, heralded a foray into new territory and were among the first to use a camouflage coating in a horological setting. The new BR 03-92 Black Camo represents another link in the Bell & Ross camouflage watch series.

Phantom

Commando

The Phantom concept was one of the first to use the full black military coating. It features an antireflective matte black coating reminiscent of the surface of a stealth plane. Its numerals, indices and hands are covered with a photo luminescent coating. The Commando is part of the same lineage of avant-garde camouflage instrument watches and features a military-inspired coating. Its cases, numerals and indices are covered in deep matte black, and its dial in matte gray. This collection is aimed at the elite units, the military commandos, and the response teams who operate covertly.

The new BR 03-92 Black Camo is the lates addition to the series and for this model, Bell & Ross has developed an original military-type tricolor coating. Its dial is covered with a patchwork of matte greys, its case and strap in matte black. Especially at night, this timepiece is practically undetectable because its matte-treated colours avoid the risk of undesirable reflections. Like in the two earlier versions, the Black Camo also comes with luminescent coating. Not risking detecting is one thing, but the watch still has to be legible.

The simple time display is based on the brand’s visual signature: large numerals accompanied by batons indices for perfect legibility. The design of the hands is also distinctive. The four large numerals impressive in both design and size, are also a Bell & Ross classic. The sandwich type dial is made up of two superposed inserts. The lower one has a black Super-LumiNova coating while the upper one carries the camouflage pattern. The die cutting for the numerals and indices reveals the black Super-LumiNova which guarantees best legibility, both day and night.

The watch is powered by the BR-CAL.302, a Swiss Made self-winding mechanical calibre.
The 42-mm-case of the BR 03-92 Black Camo uses mass-coloured ceramic. This material is wear-resistant and extremely durable as well as comfortable to wear in the heat and cold. The case is also water-resistant up to 100 metres which makes this watch perfectly resilient to environmental challenges.
The watch comes with a black rubber and synthetic fabric strap.

Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance in Steel

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The first Mirrored Force Resonance in rose gold was introduced by Armin Strom in 2016. Now the manufacturer has added another model in stainless steel. We are looking at the Mirrored Force Resonance „Water“ today, not only because it’s a beautiful piece of high-end watchmaking, but also because it is more affordable than its predecessor „Fire“.

Two oscillating bodies in close proximity influence each other and eventually synchronize; this is a phenomenon of physics known as resonance. Towards the end of the year 2016, Armin Strom introduced the Mirrored Force Resonance, a resonating dual regulator developed for maximum precision with its whole captivating mechanism on full display dial side.
Since there are only very few wristwatches which use the principle of resonance, Armin Strom has joined an exclusive club with using – and mastering – this sophisticated horological technique.

The two connected oscillators of the ARF 15 Calibre make their revolutions in opposite directions, one rotating clockwise and the other counterclockwise. After winding, the twin balance wheels need approximately 10 minutes to become synchronous. The calibre works with 25.200 vph and provides a power reserve of  48 hours after being fully wound.

Apart from the material of the case, the style and size remained the same. The Mirrored Force Resonance in steel comes with a diameter of 43.4 mm and a height of 13 mm. It is water-resistant up to 50 metres.
At 2 o’clock you will find a case band pusher. it resets the twin seconds‘ displays to zero, simultaneously resetting the twin balance wheels.

Armin Strom has equipped the Mirrored Force Resonance in Steel with a dark blue alligator strap, dedicated to the element of water.
The manufacturer is known for producing four versions of many of his watches, dedicated to the four elements. We are really looking forward to what will come next after fire and water and how these versions will not only look but fit in with the rest of the collection.

Prolific Partnership: Hublot and Ferrari Present a New Watch

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To celebrate Ferrari’s 70th anniversary, the Italian marque and its partner Hublot are presenting a new original collection.
Conversed with the same approach used for designing a car at the Ferrari Design Centre and integrating Hublot’s watchmaking expertise, the Techframe Ferrari 70 Years Tourbillon Chronograph opens a new chapter in the partnership that unites Hublot and Ferrari.

Designed by Ferrari, crafted by Hublot – what’s the worst that could happen? This watch is the result of a team effort that began with Ferrari in maranello and ended in Nyon with Hublot. This new line in Hublot’s collections is intended to offer a watch that is deeply rooted in Ferrari’s DNA – combining strength, performance and agility – while being produced and perfected by the Hublot manufacture.
Created and designed by Ferrari, under the leadership of Head of Design Flavio Manzoni, the new Techframe Ferrari 70 Years Tourbillon Chronograph was designed by Ferrari, using the same creative processes as that used to developed a new sports car. The starting point for the designers was the Hublot movement around which they freely designed a high performance chassis. Like that of a Ferrari, its lattice structure offers maximum strength for minimal weight.

The black structure on the dial holds the chronograph counters and offers excellent legibility. The crown at 4 o’clock reduces the size of the watch and increases its aerodynamic look. Finally, the red push-button makes the design more ergonomic.
The chassis case comes with a modular construction and consists of three components – a skeleton middle, container, and back cover.

Beyond its design, the Techframe Ferrari 70 Years Tourbillon Chronograph is an epitome of fine watchmaking. This tourbillon chronograph is driven by a movement that was designed and developed by Hublot: the new HUB6311 calibre with manual winding which offers 5 days of power reserve. The tourbillon is visible on the dial and it offers both the aesthetics of a flying tourbillon and the operational stability of a tourbillon with two pivot points. It rotates once a minute.
The Ferrari logo is clearly visible at the 9 o’clock position whilst the Hublot logo is at 5 o’clock. The sapphire crystal reveals the mechanics that it shelters. A matt black block, affixed to the sapphire holds a twin half-second counter at 3 o’clock, the minutes counter at 11 o’clock and the column wheel at 1 o’clock.

The Techframe Ferrari 70 Years is available in three versions – King Gold, PEEK Carbon, and Titanium – each of which is produced in 70 limited editions. Every watch comes with a black rubber strap.