Schlagwort-Archive: mechanical movement

Urwerk presents the EMC TimeHunter Stormtrooper

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For the new Urwerk EMC TimeHunter White Ceramic the nickname „Stormtrooper“ was chosen. Everyone who knows Baumgartner & Frei is not surprised by this choice because of their love of science fiction and the heavy influence of the Star Wars universe on their own designs over the years. The signature armour of the Stormtrooper was an instant icon ever since it appeared on screen in 1977. The Stormtrooper was designed to intimidate but also to look super cool and super clean.
The EMC Stormtrooper evokes the same characteristics. The whole watch belongs like it belongs in a sci-fi movie, and for this limited edition the white ceramic case set it apart from the previous models, indeed all previous Urwerk watches. Because gone is the trademark black look, as the manufacture embraces white for the first time in its history.

The EMC TimeHunter Stormtrooper belongs to the Ur-Chronometry family, which encompasses Urwerk watchmaking concepts dedicated to outstanding precision. An EMC TimeHunter is essentially a dual measuring instrument. Its appearance and even its surface all signal its nature. The EMC Stormtrooper is crafted from steel and its caseback from titanium. Its aesthetic is not round, square or cushion-like, nor indeed any of Urwerk’s signature indefinable shapes. This hyper-technical machine hugs the contours of the movement inside and submits to the constraints of its various organs. It is not symmetrical, regular, flat or curved, yet remains aesthetically pleasing and distinctive, embodying a truly unique personality.
Moreover, its stainless steel „hood“ is micro-beadblasted and then given a hard, matt ceramic lacquer-type treatment. As a result, the surface of the EMC TimeHunter „Stormtrooper“ has a grainy finish reminiscent of military equipment. The case measures 43 mm in diameter and 51 mm in length and is water-resistant up to 3 atm.

The same functionalism reigns on the dial with its matt black surfaces. Each indication zone has its own clearly marked space. Each unit is painted with fluorescent green Super-LumiNova to perfect the contrasts. In addition to the main dial with its chequered hand grenade pattern, which displays the hours and minutes, the EMC TimeHunter features a smal disc-type seconds hand at 1 o’clock, graduated in five-second increments. It is complemented by a power-reserve indicator at 7 o’clock.
The indications linked to the chronometric monitoring function are concentrated at 11 o’clock and indicated by the „EM Control“ marking on the screw-down bezel.

At the very heart of the EMC concept lies an electronic/mechanical system that makes each of these timepieces one-of-a-kind, bestriding two worlds. It is an entirely mechanical watch, optimised with the help of an electro-optical circuit. Designed exclusively for the EMC collections, the UR-EMC2 calibre is entirely crafted, finished, assembled and adjusted by Urwerk.
It incorporates an electronic module whose function it is to measure the rate of the mechanical part. It has its own power source, separate from the rest of the movement. On one side the engine, on the other, the control unit. These two integrated units make the EMC TimeHunter a truly wearer-adjustable watch.
The hand-wound movement works at a frequency of 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of a maximum of 80 hours.

The EMC TimeHunter Stormtrooper is a very limited edition of only 5 pieces.

The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evolution

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Over the past 15 years, MB&F creations have transported their wearers to destinations that exist only on maps of the imagination: from star-cruisers to deep-sea jellyfish, Maximilian Büsser’s Machines are the mechanical cartographers of the multiverse. With the new Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, this year the Manufacture is undertaking the greatest journey yet – that of evolution. With this watch, you can become a navigator and explore the map of your own life.
In terms of combining prestige, tradition and innovation, Legacy Machine Perpetual has remained at the apex of MB&F watchmaking savoir-faire since it was introduced five years ago.

MB&F has built the LM Perpetual Evolution into a 44 mm zirconium case. This lustrous silvery-grey metals‘ material properties are surpassing those of stainless steel and aluminium. Nevertheless, zirconium is rarely used in watchmaking. The material is known to spontaneously ignite in powdered form, making it dangerous to machine.
The new profile emphasises openness and extreme clarity and a specially developed monobloc shock-absorbing system – the FlexRing – makes for the most robust Machine ever to emerge from MB&F. In this design, MB&F has eliminated the bezel and fused the domed sapphire crystal directly to the case. New geometries had to be calculated, achieving the mechanically opposing aims of maintaining structural strength and decreasing ist height-to-diameter ratio.
The previously circular pushers have been enlarged into double-sprung oblong actuators, boosting the tactile comfort and ease of adjustment. And for the first time in any MB&F creation, the LM Perpetual EVO is rated at 80m of water restistance, enabled by its screw-down crown.

The increased openness of this design highlights the equilibrium between the legibility of LM Perpetual EVO’s calendar indications and the cinematic play of the engine components – surmounted by the iconic MB&F hovering balance wheel.
The three color variants of the coated dial include an atomic orange. Although dark shades of PVD and CVD coating have been used for years in watchmaking, with colours toward the cooler end of the visible light spectrum becoming more common recently, warmer hues such as yellow, orange and red have always remained unattainable. A combination of technical innovations in the areas of coating material and technique allows this Legacy Machine to don an outrageous orange. Blue and black versions are also available.

The LM Perpetual Engine, designed in 2015, features a perpetual calendar that replaces traditional constructions with an innovative mechanical processor consisting of a series of superimposed disks. It takes the default number of days in the month at 28 and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month. This ensures that each month has exactly the right number of days, and removes the possibility of the date jumping incorrectly. And where, in other watches, exists the very real risk of damage by pressing the pushers during the date changeover, this one comes with an inbuilt safety feature. It disconnets the quickset pushers during the date changeover, so that the movement cannot be damaged.

A closely-fitted, integrated strap provides the smoothest wearing experience of any MB&F Machine ever.
Each of the three colours is produced in a limited series of 15 pieces – celebrating the brand’s 15th anniversary.

For the Anniversary: „Homage to F. A. Lange Special Edition

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This year, A. Lange & Söhne presented three extraordinary models of the 1815 watch family with the epithet „Homage to F. A. Lange“. The three limited editions with cases made of honey gold as well as special movement decorations and dials are dedicated to Ferdinand A. Lange and the foundation of the manufactory 175 years ago.
IN 2020, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating not only its 175th anniversary, but also the 30th anniversary of a courageous new beginning. Inspired by long-standing tradition, the watchmakers of A. Lange & Söhne today strive to advance precision watchmaking with innovative ideas and excellent craftsmanship. Their driving motivation of never standing still is also reflected in the new anniversary edition „Homage to F. A. Lange“.

The 1815 watch family, which bears the birth year of the founder in its name, is inspired by tradition and therefore primarily stands for the classic side of A. Lange & Söhne. The family’s design transports the spirit of the pocket watches of yesteryear to the mechanical wristwatches of today. Central to this are values such as distinguised restraint and the demand for precision.
The unifying element of the three new limited editions is the case material honey gold. Additionally, all three models are characterised by special movement decorations and a special dial.

The 1815 watch family, which bears the year of the founder’s birth in its name, is strongly inspired by the Trdition and thus stands above all for the classic side of A. Lange & Söhne. Their design transfers the spirit of the pocket watches of yesteryear to the mechanical wristwatches of today. Central to this are values such as forward-looking restraint and the pursuit of precision.
The unifying element of the three limited edition watches is the honey gold case material. Furthermore, all models are characterised by special movement decorations.

1815 Thin Honeygold „Homage to F. A. Lange“

With a diameter of only 38 millimetres, this timelessly elegant two-hand wtch is a mere 6.3 millimetres high. With Arabic numerals and a railway-track minute scale, the intricately hand-made enamel dial emphasises the design inspired by Lange pocket watches. This wristwatch is limited to 175 pieces.
The 1815 Thin Honeygold is powered by the in-house calibre L093.1. This hand-wound movement offers a power reserve of 72 hours.

1815 Rattrapante Honeygold „Homage to F. A. Lange“

This is the first watch from A. Lange & Söhne which places the classic complications of timekeepking – chronograph and rattrapante – in the spotlight in their pure forms. Additionally, for this watch (which is limited to 100 pieces) the honey gold case was used for the first time in combination with a black dial made from solid silver.
The 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is powered by the new hand-wound calibre L101.2, which operates at a frequency of 3 Hz and offers excellent precision.

Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold „Homage to F. A. Lange“

Only 50 pieces of the most complex timepiece of the new anniversary edition will be made. Two of its five complications – tourbillon and fusée-and-chain transmission – have the single purpose of further increasing the accuracy of the watch. Orchestrating the perfect interaction between chronograph, rattrapante and perpetual calendar is a major watchmaking challenge. The dial is made of black-rhodiumed honey gold with raised numerals and scales that stand out from the dark background as a ground relief.
The calibre L133.1 features not only elaborate finishes but also an outstanding complexity. It consists of 684 individual parts.

These limited watches from the special anniversary edition „Homage to F. A. Lange“ will undoubtedly quicken the pulse of every collector.

Mido Baroncelli Mechanical Limited Edition

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Mido presents its slimmest mechanical watch to date: The exclusive, elegant and very slim Baroncelli Mechanical Limited Edition. This watch is a streamlined, etheral interpretation that, thanks to its radiant appearance, perfectly reflects the brand’s classic watch heritage.
Mido created the Baroncelli collection back in 1976, celebrating the timeless beauty of the Rennes Opera House. This building has always stood out both for its rich programme of performances and for the harmony of its neoclassical construction. Mido took inspiration from its rounded architecture as well as the statues of the Muses of Antiquity placed on top of the façade.

Perfectly representing Mido and its history, which has been marked by numerous creations with timeless designs, the Baroncelli Mechanical Limited Edition is dedicated to fine watchmaking enthusiasts. For the dial, a deep black lacquer was chosen and diamond-cut hands and indexes with rose gold PVD-treatment stand out against the glossy background. At 6 o’clock, a small second is positioned and the Mido Mechanical signature and the „Limited Edition“ inscription at 3’clock highlight the rarity of each watch in this series.

The Baroncelli Mechanical Limited Edition is powered by a very slim mechanical movement. It is approximately 2.5 mm thick, making this watch the slimmest mechanical calibre to be offered by Mido. The movement is based on the ETA 7002; it operates at a frequency of 21,600 Hz and offers a power reserve of at least 42 hours. In keeping with tradition, Geneva stripes adorn the components visible throught the sapphire crystal case back which is engraved with the individual serial number of each model.
All this is housed in a polished case featuring rose gold PVD-coating, less than 7 mm high in total. The case is also water-resistant up to 3 atm.

The Baroncelli Mechanical Limited Edition consists of only 2020 watches. Mido paires every one of them with a black semi-matt crocodile-look lether strap and a folding clasp.

Soonow Instant Rainbow: The Most Colorful of Skulls

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When the past meets the future, something beautiful happens. It’s called the present. In these unique times, we are constantly being challenged to explore new ways of perceiving the now. And the HYT Soonow Instant Rainbow tells this intensely contemporary, fluid story in a captivating, colorful way. Time’s intrinsic flow presents itself as a broad spectrum of possibility. ‚Now‘ potentially lasts forever, as it continually becomes what was ’soon‘ just a moment ago. Stopping and preserving time are as illusory as prolonging a rainbow. All we can do is enjoy the beauty of both as they appear to us.

This multi-colored timepiece, integrating the HYT fluidic module, shows time and light performing their intrinsic magic. Its design is rooted in the truth that both are in constant motion. Its message is that both should always be appreciated and never restrained. Yellow and blue, two of the three primary colors, trace the paths of elapsed and future time respectively. The other colors of the rainbow spread across and around the dial with refined gradual shading. Light dances with 668 sapphires, amethysts and tsavorites in 14 color variations, In combination with the violet anodized titanium dial, covoered with 313 yellow gold pins, this heightenes the overall radiance of the mesmerizing, three-dimensional whole.

The look of the skeleton on the dial of the Soonow Instant Rainbow has a hypnotic quality. Its right eye shows the power reserve progressing smoothly through the entire color spectrum, as does the seconds indicator in the other socket. Different monochrome Super-LumiNova outlines, around the openings for the eyes, nose and mouth, draw the gaze. And the skull offers a grin full of solid gold teeth.

The HYT Soonow Instant Rainbow is a very limited edition with only 8 pieces available.

Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon

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Laurent Ferrier is known for creating classical watches imbued with traditional watchmaking crafts and mechanical excellence. Now, the Genevan atelier has crafted a new contemporary watch, which upholds the company’s uncompromising approach to watchmaking: The Grand Sport Tourbillon.
It is the first model, Laurent Ferrier has equipped with a stainless steel case. The new addition features a tourbillon, double balance spring and the firm’s legendary finishing.

Laurent Ferrier was a passionate sports enthusiast, especially when it came to car racing. He competed no less tha seven times in the famous 24 Hours of Le Mans and secured victory once. Accordingly, the passion for motorsport is still an important part of the firm’s DNA. And this love of sports has also led to the creation of the latest creation, the Grand Tourbillon Sport.

The Grand Tourbillon Sport is contemporary, but does not eschew the Maison’s penchant for traditional craftsmanship and technical excellence.
The wristwatch is housed in a 44mm stainless steel case and predominantly features circular satin-finished elements. The bezel is cushion-shaped but encompasses contrasting mirror-polished flanks, the middle of the case has a barrel-shaped outline. Despite all the contrasts, every constituent of the case coalesces harmoniously.

Laurent Ferrier has equípped the Grand Tourbillon Sport with an opaline dial which transitions from blue at its centre to black near its periphery. Both the hands and indexes feature orange Super-LumiNova, vitalising the overall composition.
A snailed small seconds display resides above 6 o’clock and sits beneath the tinted sapphire crystal.

The Grand Sport Tourbillon is powered by a mechanical movement that works at a frequency of 5 Hz and provides an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. Instead of showing the tourbillon on the dial side, as is usually the case, Laurent Ferrier is making it visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Now that’s understatement.
As you would expect, Laurent Ferrier has finished the movement beautifully and painstakingly.

Not only is the stainless steel case a premiere for Laurent Ferrier, there has never before been a Maison watch equipped with a stainless steel link bracelet. With its rounded edges and contrasting mirror polish, it blends beautifully with the case.

The Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon is an exclusive model, limited to 12 pieces.

Zenith Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon

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Since the dawn of precision timekeeping, watchmakers have sought to produce timepieces that offer unfaltering performance through the use of constant force. Zenith reinterprets the fusee and chain constant force mechanism in a modernistic style in the new Defy Fusee Tourbillon.

The Defy Fusee Tourbillon is available in two distinct editions in Carbon and Platin. The first version features a light yet robust carbon case, crown and buckle head. The carbon fibre treatment even extends to the open dial, with the central skeletal element and surrounding flange ring giving off the unique simmer of this material. The second version of the Defy Fusee Tourbillon is crafted in platinum. The exposed movement provides a vibrant, voluminous view, where the mix of materials and tones add visual depth, from the anthracite base of the movement to the blued chain and tourbillon cage topped with a set of geometrical bridges in two tones.

The spoke design of the bridges is amplified by their bicolor finish, where the top satin-finished surface is given a black treatment, while its polished sides are a lighter grey rhodium tone. The layout of the bridges offers a balance of the various functions and complications. On the top half of the movement, one can admire the uniquely conceived fusee and chain constant force mechanism. On the opposite end at 6 o’clock, a tourbillon cage with an entirely new construction featuring an off-centered balance wheel makes a full rotation every 60 seconds. Like the chain, the tourbillon cage comes in a striking blue color. Positioned at the edge of the dial between 4 and 5 o’clock, a red-tipped hand indicates the power reserve, a handy feature when manually winding the Defy Fusee Tourbillon with its 50-hour power reserve.

The Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon is housing the new El Primero 4805 SK calibre, a manual-winding movement that follows the Defy code of avant-garde movement architecture with an open three-dimensional impact. By combining the fusee and chain mechanism with a tourbillon regulating organ, Zenith places precision at the forefront of its unique take on haute horlogerie.

The Defy Fusee Tourbillon in carbon is limited to 50 pieces, the second version in platin will be available only 10 times.

DB28GS Grand Bleu: Bethunes First Sports Watch

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This year, watch manufacturer De Bethune presents its first 100% sports watch. This diver’s watch is equipped with a new caliber, water-resistance to more than 100 meters and makes a lasting impression with an exceptionally good readability. De Bethune developed and designed the DB28GS Grand Bleu to be a resolutely sporty watch – while cultivating the aesthetic elegance cherished by the brand.
Just 10 years ago, De Bethune began developing timepieces with a more contemporary spirit with the first DB28. Already at that time, De Bethune’s founder and Master Watchmaker, Denis Flageollet, an outdoor sports enthusiast, felt the need to create watches adapted to an active lifestyle. In 2015, the first DB28GS was launched, followed by the DB28GS Grand Bleu, De Bethune’s first diver’s watch.

Since not only divers‘ watches in particular, but sports watches in general – in every situation, in any kind of weather and under the poorest of lighting conditions – should be particularly easy to read, De Bethune developed a special lighting system for the DB28GS Grand Bleu. To illuminate the watch and the movement from the inside, the slightly bluish white light source is produced by a fully mechanical means that works on the dynamo principle. Neither electronics nor a battery is needed. A pusher at 6 o’clock activates a mechanism that provides the energy needed to light the watch.

As a diver’s watch, the DB28GS Grand Bleu is also equipped with a uni-directional rotating bezel which serves to enable accurate calculation of immersion time, as well as the transition through various decompression stops. Generally, all the numerals relating to the minutes counter are indicated on the bezel, which tends to create a more crowded visual effect. For the DB28GS Grand Bleu, these indications appear on the sapphire crystal driven by the bezel. This enables the model to remain unusually slim for a diver’s watch.
The DB28GS Grand Bleu displays central hours, minutes and seconds.

The DB28GS Grand Bleu is powered by a new movement, the 27th from the De Bethune factory. The hand-wound calibre operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of five days.
The movement is housed in a titanium case with a diameter of 44 millimetres and a water resistance of 10 atm. De Bethune has placed the crown at 12 o’clock, and the patented system of floating lugs ensures that the watch sits perfectly on the wrist.

The DB28GS Grand Bleu is delivered with two straps: a canvas version and a striated natural rubber iteration.

Patek Philippe: Impressive Technology Beautifully Wrapped

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Ah, with one of its newest watches, Patek Philippe seduces all the ladies out there who want a beautiful, luxurious watch that simultaneously satisfies their needs for technical excellence. As early as 2009 the manufacturer introduced a chronograph exclusively for feminine wrists. It was the debut of a classic manufacture-made chronograph movement  (column wheel, horizontal clutch, manual winding) that had been developed entirely in-house. That was also expressed by the name of the watch: Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, built until 2016. And now, the Genevan manufacture is enriching its collection with a new, captivating model.

The new chronograph Ref. 7150/250R-001 is a technically sophisticated watch with a totally new face. The cushion-shaped case has been replaced with an elegant, round rose-gold case with a diameter of 38 mm featuring a bezel set with 72 diamonds. Its timelessly sleek design is emphasized by refined vintage looking details such as the fluted and curved lugs, the round chronograph pushers with guilloched faces, and the cambered sapphire-crystal „box“ glass. The case is water-resistant up to 3 bar.

The silvery opaline dial also combines a contemporary style with classic aesthetics, showcasing sculpted Breguet hour and minute hands in rose gold and a display layout that makes it eminently legible. At 3.30 you’ll find the 30-minute-counter and the running seconds is placed at 9.30. The pulsometer scale of the new model pays tribute to the tradition of classic chronographs that can measure the cadence of an active lifestyle or slightly increased heart rate of its proud owner.

The compact case accommodates the manually winding calibre CH 29-535 PS movement with an instantaneous 30-minute counter. Patek Philippe has crowned its classic architecture with six patented innovations and its lavish finissage can be admired through the box-type sapphire-crystal case back that is slightly chamfered to echo the profil of the rear bezel. The movement works with 28.800 vph and boasts a power reserve of 65 hours.

The Ref. 7150/250R-001 is worn on a shiny mink gray alligator leather strap. Its rose gold buckle is encrusted with 27 diamonds.

Sculptured, Enigmatic, Architectural: The New HYT

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Sculpture gives mass meaning. The latest H20 from HYT looks to this visual art that operates in three dimensions to shed light on the essence of time. Viewed from any aspect, the sculpted timepiece unveils new angles on time, while colored and clear liquids keep its essential flow permanently present. Second by second, further layers of time are revealed, witnessed and anticipated.

The all-black color-scheme, right through to the coating of the movement’s bridges, intensifies the visual drama between mystery and transparency. This intrinsic interplay of time and space brings to life the core HYT belief that time is defined by content and context.
These timepieces represent the culmination of a quest to define and capture the essence of time. Its conclusion is clear: the time is now – always.

In these two new limited editions of the H20, the three-dimensional quality of the design acquires additional visual tension. A striking contrast between black diamond-like carbon coating and the doomed crystal hosting apparently floating digits. The whole presents an architectural entity, tempting the eye to take a new perspective on time – and watchmaking.
The skeletonized numerals ring features white lacquered interior and black indices. The minute hand as well as the HNR hand are equipped with Super-LumiNova. The stainless steel case combines polished an satin finished surfaces and features a diameter of 51 mm while measuring 19.95 mm in height. The case is water resistant up to 3 atm.

The blue (and red) liquid traces the path of time’s recent journey while replacing the clear liquid beyond the meniscus. The liquids are pushed through the capillary tubes by multi-layered metal bellows.
The patented fluidic module works in collaborates with a mechanical movement exclusively developed for HYT by APRP. Seamless transition between these two protagonists is assured by the conversion of rotation into linear motion via a cam-follower system. This calibre works at a frequency of 3 Hz and boasts a gigantic power reserve of 192 hours.

The HYT H20 comes with a black rubber bracelet. The watch is a limited edition of only 10 pieces, so if you really want one of these, you better hurry.