Ochs und Junior Does It Again

The watches made by Ochs und Junior look very simple and lack much of the usual pomp of luxury watches. At the same time, they present an extremely sophisticated approach to modern watchmaking that emphasises functionality for itself. But this does not mean that watchmakers as well as watch lovers do not absolutely adore the puristic wristwatches.
The latest addition to the Ochs und Junior collection, the two time zones + date, also embodies the manufacturer’s strictly uncluttered design philosophy.

The two time zones + date shows hours and minutes in two different time zones, the date in your home timezone, running seconds and the power reserve. The big innovation in this watch is how Ochs und Junior has decided to implement the second time zone. Instead of adding an extra hand, Ochs and Junior opted for a central hour disc and replaced the traditional hour hand with one with a wedge-shaped opening. The main hand shows the local time, while the opening frames the hours of the second time zone.
The spiral date display, which runs around the outer rim of the dial, consists of 30+1 holes that are easy and intuitive to read. The small disc at twelve o’clock indicates the power reserve (the dot pointing to the right, when the watch is fully wound, and pointing to the left when the power reserve gets empty), while the small disc at six o’clock indicates the running seconds.

The Ochs und Junior two time zones + date display is powered by the Ulysse Nardin UN-118 basic movement, to which only ten additional components have been added to implement the date display and the GMT time. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 60 hours.
All settings are made via the crown.

The two time zones + date comes in a 42mm titanium or PVD-coated titanium or silver case. And like everything else – the dial, bracelet and the colour of the Super-LumiNova – the case material can be changed to fit the individual taste of the buyer. This is a feature, Ochs und Junior offers for all its watches, how awesome is that?
The case is water resistant up to 10 atm.

The Ochs und Junior two time zones + datum is as much fun as the other models made by the manufacturer. It is always exciting to see how Ochs und Junior can implement new functions once more simply and intuitively. And we can hardly wait to see what will be next.

DB28GS Grand Bleu: Bethunes First Sports Watch

This year, watch manufacturer De Bethune presents its first 100% sports watch. This diver’s watch is equipped with a new caliber, water-resistance to more than 100 meters and makes a lasting impression with an exceptionally good readability. De Bethune developed and designed the DB28GS Grand Bleu to be a resolutely sporty watch – while cultivating the aesthetic elegance cherished by the brand.
Just 10 years ago, De Bethune began developing timepieces with a more contemporary spirit with the first DB28. Already at that time, De Bethune’s founder and Master Watchmaker, Denis Flageollet, an outdoor sports enthusiast, felt the need to create watches adapted to an active lifestyle. In 2015, the first DB28GS was launched, followed by the DB28GS Grand Bleu, De Bethune’s first diver’s watch.

Since not only divers’ watches in particular, but sports watches in general – in every situation, in any kind of weather and under the poorest of lighting conditions – should be particularly easy to read, De Bethune developed a special lighting system for the DB28GS Grand Bleu. To illuminate the watch and the movement from the inside, the slightly bluish white light source is produced by a fully mechanical means that works on the dynamo principle. Neither electronics nor a battery is needed. A pusher at 6 o’clock activates a mechanism that provides the energy needed to light the watch.

As a diver’s watch, the DB28GS Grand Bleu is also equipped with a uni-directional rotating bezel which serves to enable accurate calculation of immersion time, as well as the transition through various decompression stops. Generally, all the numerals relating to the minutes counter are indicated on the bezel, which tends to create a more crowded visual effect. For the DB28GS Grand Bleu, these indications appear on the sapphire crystal driven by the bezel. This enables the model to remain unusually slim for a diver’s watch.
The DB28GS Grand Bleu displays central hours, minutes and seconds.

The DB28GS Grand Bleu is powered by a new movement, the 27th from the De Bethune factory. The hand-wound calibre operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of five days.
The movement is housed in a titanium case with a diameter of 44 millimetres and a water resistance of 10 atm. De Bethune has placed the crown at 12 o’clock, and the patented system of floating lugs ensures that the watch sits perfectly on the wrist.

The DB28GS Grand Bleu is delivered with two straps: a canvas version and a striated natural rubber iteration.

News from TAG Heuer: Special Carbon Series in Black

TAG Heuer has introduced its newest and simultaneously most modern interpretation of its famous Aquaracer. The watches – three different versions overall – combine an urban look that combines comfort, durability and sportiness.
The first models of this ultra-light, hard-wearing and modern special series are the first of a collection, TAG Heuer will extend over the next months. The Carbon series also comes with the appropriate name: Aquaracer Carbone.

The dial boasts an imitation carbon effect. TAG Heuer offers the Aquaracer Cabone in three different versions, which are sporting accents in either blue, yellow or pink gold. But in these watches, black is clearly the dominating color which raises the issue of readabiltiy. But TAG Heuer didn’t skimp in terms of Super-LumiNova and yes, it’s deep grey in daylight. Which is pretty cool because it’s practically seamlessly blending into the background as long as it isn’t dark.
Over the dial lies a sapphire crystal, sporting an ingrained magnifier at the 3-o’clock position. These cyclops are always controversial and often crucial in terms of liking a timepiece or not. But that’s how it is, and may we say that the cyclops is integrating itself quite beautifully into the overall design of the Aquaracer Carbone.

The 41-mm-case is made from titanium with black PVD coating. Thanks to the random injection of carbon fibres into a resin pressed at high temperatures, each peace is unique, boasting an exclusive black and grey marbled motif. So, even if the case is not made from carbon, there is carbon in it – but I think we can all agree, the name might be a bit misleading.
Like one would expect from a diver’s watch, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Carbone is water-resistant up to 30 atm.

The technical details are the same as in the Aquaracer, TAG Heuer has incarnated three years earlier. All models are powered by the Calibre 5. The automatic movement is working at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Since the case back is solid (also made from PVD coated titanium), the movement cannot be observed.

All three models are completed by black nylon straps with black, yellow or blue topstitching, matching the colored accents on the dials.

Porsche Design Expands 1919 Collection

Prosche Design has introduced a new watch this spring; an expansion of the 1919 collection: the 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather. It is the first flyback chronograph in the series. Porsche Design is known for its understated design language which is found in all of its objects. Straightforward, purist, and uncompromisingly functional is the overall motto which is also evident in the 1919 Collection. It is inspired by the purist design and functional aesthetics of the Porsche 911.

In order to intuitively display the time from every angle, the radius of the dial is as large as possible. With this task in mind a slim titanium case with bold minute indices positioned on the outer edges of the dial was created, foregoing a tachymeter bezel. Hours, minutes and the chronograph seconds are displayed by central hands; at 12 o’clock is the subdial for the chronograph minutes positioned, at 6 o’clock the one for the chronograph hours. At 4 o’clock a date window can be found.
The lugs are entirely integrated into the strap in order to achieve significantly more ergonomic stability; and through uniform force distribution. The case measures 42 mm in diameter and 14,9 mm in height; it is both polished and matte and water resistant up to 10 bar.

The 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather is powered by the 01.200 calibre. Porsche Design has introduced it in June 2017 for the first time. The flyback chronograph, which allows the measurement of successive intervals. The automatic movement is beating at 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 48 hours. It is also completely black (the PVD coating also extends to the rotor), a standard for Porsche Design, and can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back.

Das ausbalancierte Design verleiht dem Chronographen eine herrliche Leichtigkeit, welche durch das Armband ideal unterstrichen wird.
Die Farbgebung in einem tiefen Braunton verleiht dem 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather eine betont zeitgemäße Note, ohne seine zeitlos anmutende Persönlichkeit zu beeinträchtigen.

The well-balanced design gives a unique visual-lightness to the watch, which is further enhanced by the elegantly proportioned strap.
The deep brown hue lends the 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather a contemporary touch, without compromising its timeless characteristics.

The 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather will be available as of September 2018 at Porsche Design stores as well as online for 5.950€.

Unfathomable Precision: The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth

Favre-Leuba can look back at 281 years of brand history. The watch manufacturer is known for creating an interface of traditional watchmaking and the dynamic engineering spirit of today.
In 1968, Favre-Leuba has introduced its vision of the perfect dive watch, the Bathy. It was equipped with a depth gauge and was a milestone in mechanical instrument watches. It is a much sought-after collector’s piece today and the year 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of the Bathy. The perfect time to pave the way for a new legend – and the question, if it is possible to improve on excellence. The answer can be found in the new Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth.

The retrofuturistic design is a deliberate nod to the original 1968 Bathy. From a technical standpoint, however, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an entirely new creation. Its functionality and materials have not merely been improved upon – they have set a new standard. The case design is a homage to its popular predecessor and is complemented by bold, functional colors and easy-to-read hands.

The new case is crafted from titanium and, with its 48 mm diameter, guarantees perfect readability at the bigger dial.

The depth gauge in the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth turns on one of the established rules of watchmaking completely on its head. Never let water get inside of a watch? Quite the opposite. The new Bathy features apertures in the case back that actually invite water inside. It may sound crazy, but it isn’t: these openings are part of the depth gauge, which is hermetically separated from the movement. The concept is based on the compression of a specially designed membrane that is integrated into the case back. Water enters a separate chamber through the apertures, causing the membrane to compress as the pressure increases. A mechanical contact sensor inside the watch reacts to this compression and conveys the information via the hand of the depth gauge onto the dial.
The dive depth is displayed on a nonlinear display via a central hand on the dial. Depths up to 120 m can be measured extremely precisely. The scale for the first 30 m is finer, with two red marks at 5 and 10, where decompression stops may be necessary. The Raider Bathy 120 Memo Depth also features a mechanical depth memory (MemoDepth), which stores the maximum depth reached during a dive. The depth gauge at 3 o’clock reliably displays the value until it is reset via the screw-in pusher at 4 o’clock.

The Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is water-resistant up to 200m, as is the norm for a dive watch. Its optimal range of measurement is 120 m, more than double that of the original Bathy (50 m). A built-in mechanical limiter ensures that neither the pressure membrane nor the depth gauge are damaged if the wearer dives deeper that the optimal range.
Even on ambitious dives to depth where there is little light, all of the relevant information is perfectly readable. Design and features of the Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth are inspired by the belief, that unnecessary difficulties should not get between a diver and the thrill of the dive.

Like every professional dive watch, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is fitted with an unidirectional bezel. It turns only counterclockwise so that it is only possible to accidentally move the bezel in a direction, which would subtract from the planned dive time.
The watch is powered by the FL321 hand-wound movement. It is based on the EMC 3903M caliber, which has been completely re-engineered by Favre-Leuba. It features a 65-hour power reserve and a power-reserve indicator displayed at 12 o’clock.

The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an extraordinary instrument, inspired by the original Bathy yet re-interpreted and perfected. This watch is an achievement in the development of mechanical instrument watches – and impressively stylish as well.

Die Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth ist ein außergewöhnliches Instrument, das einen neuen Maßstab in Sachen Taucheruhren setzt und dabei ihre Impulse von der Ur-Bathy bezieht und diese neue interpretiert. Fantastisch aussehen tut sie außerdem.

Impressive: The Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33

Omega’s pioneering spirit has taken the manufacturer on adventures beyond the earth’s atmosphere and below the surface of the ocean. Now the manufacturer launched a natural extension of its legacy in space, the Speedmaster Skywalker X-33. Designed especially for space explorers, this watch is an innovative upgrade of the Speedmaster Professional X-33 released in 1998.
The new model is powered by an advanced quartz calibre and was developed to meet the needs of astronauts and others who can appreciate its impressive variety of functions. Moreover, the European Space Agency (ESA) has approved this watch for inclusion in all of its missions.

The ceramic bezel features a chromium nitride scale. There is luminescent white Super-LumiNova with green emission on the 60-minute indicator. The 45 mm brushed case is made of titanium and features an also brushed crown and pushers.

The black dial with its white indexes and hour markers, has a central opening that allows the wearer to read the displayed digital elements such as the time in up to three different time zones, three alarms, chronograph and countdown functions, and a perpetual calendar. In addition to its analogue and digital displays, it tracks mission elapsed time and phase elapsed time.
Skeletonised black and white hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova which emtits a green light. The bold red seconds hand is clearly visible and all hands can be disengaged to allow clear reading of the digital display. The liquid crystal display (LCD) with an electroluminescent backlight features grey segments on a black background.

This Speedmaster is powered, as we mentioned above, by a multi-functional quartz chronograph movement, the in-house calibre 5619. It includes a thermo-compensated integrated circuit. This new movement was developed under an ESA patent licence based on an invention by ESA astronaut Jean-François Clervoy.

The Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 comes on a titanium bracelet, featuring a fold-over clasp. And there’s also an interactive iPad App for this watch, which you can download from the Omega website.

Always Different: Urwerk

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The watchmaking company Urwerk celebrates its 20th birthday in 2017 – in style of course. Frei & Baumgartner, the founders of Urwerk, presented their new company and their first watch at the Baselworld 1997, causing quite a stir. And even two centuries later, it doesn’t get boring with Urwerk. The new UR-T8 which marks the companies 20th birthday was presented at the SIHH. This watch proves the enormous creativity and the aspiration of Frei & Baumgartner to revolutionize how we think about wristwatches. The way in which the time is displayed as well as the shape of the case is once more unique – and a novelty.

The UR-T8 is Urwerk’s first transformable watch – inspired by the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso”. A Series of precise actions unlocks the case from its cradle, flips it over and returns it with a satisfying click. It then becomes a mysterious object on the wrist. There are two pushers on the bezel which, when pushed simultaneously, lift the watch vertically. It then can be rotated about its axis before clicked back into its cradle to return to the present time. From one side, the UR-T8 is watch, from the other one is a futuristic design piece which resembles a watch only partly since the time display is completely gone.

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Urwerk has a new version of its trademark wandering-hour indication in the UR-T8. This intuitive display arranges the twelve hours in groups of four on a three-armed carousel. These successively sweep across the scale of 60 minutes to show the time both digitally and analogically. It is the biggest and most elaborate carousel configuration yet applied by Urwerk, with each arm supporting a satellite carousel bearing the four numerals. A complex planetary gearing transforms a tangle of wheels, screws and jewels bearings into a meticulously orchestrated ballet.

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The Urwerk UR-T8 features a unique pneumatic control of the self-winding system. A spinning vane connected to the winding rotor absorbs any sudden and violet movements of the rotor without compromising its winding efficiency.
The watch is powered by the calibre UR 8.01. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power-reserve of 50 hours.
The case is made from titanium with a black PVD-coating and it measures 60.23 x 48.35 x 20.02 mm.
Of the UR-T8 will only be 60 pieces available.

Designed to Conquer Space: BR-X1 HyperStellar

Bell & Ross has introduced a space-themed version of its BR-X1 hypersonic chronograph earlier this year, the BR-X1 HyperStellar. Mechanical chronographs have always been part of the official kit of astronauts and cosmonauts. These watches have enabled missions to be completed in situations where electronic motor systems have malfunctioned.
To survive in space, a watch has to respond to certain specifications: resistance to extreme temperatures, corrosion, impacts, acceleration, pressure, vibration and more. This is not easy to achieve.

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Bell & Ross has designed the BR-X1 HyperStellar as a horological space capsule and made sure that the watch is suitable for use with gloves. The predominance of stone grey and electric blue is a reference to two colours closely associated with space exploration: the grey of the moon and the blue of the Earth.
The BR-X1 HyperStellar chronograph features a 60-second counter in the centre, the minute timer on the chronograph function is positioned at 9 o’clock and instead of a hand it features an ultra light aluminium disk resembling the blades of a turbine.
On the flange appears a tachymetre scale in blue.
Made from grey-tinted sapphire crystal and featuring appliqué metal indices filled with Super-LumiNova, the dial forms a clear window through which the movement can be admired.

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Through the usage of titanium and aluminium for the case the BR-X1 HyperStellar is a very light watch. These two materials are widely used in the aerospace industry. Aluminium is known to generate an impermeable oxide lawyer, which protects it against corrosion. And titanium has exceptional corrosion resistance properties, high biocompatibility and properties that enable the production of small, thin parts that are light yet strong.
The case measures 45 mm in diameter, the bezel’s protective insert is in blue anodised aluminium. To protect it from impacts, the square case of the BR-X1 HyperStellar is covered with a bumper in the rubber that acts as a peripheral protective shell. A rubber grip function has also been integrated to ensure better handling even when wearing gloves.
The case is water resistant up to 100 metres and combines polished and brushed surfaces.

The Bell & Ross BR-X1 HyperStellar is powered by the calibre BR-CAL.313, a skeletonized, mechanical automatic movement. It can be seen through a small circular opening in the caseback.
This watch comes with a grey alligator and rubber strap and is limited to 200 pieces.

A Contemporary Vision of Haute Horlogerie

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Winner of the Horological Revelation award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2013, the TYPE 3 represents Ressence’s watchmaking philosophy: a balance of technological innovation, mechanical complexity and timeless design.
The approach of Ressence is characterised by the elimination of both standard watch hands and crown, the minimization of the case and the maximization of legibility thanks to oil-filled technology.

The Type 3 builds on the unique patented complication Ressence introduced in 2010 with its Zero series. The ROCS, or Ressence Orbital Convex System, initiated a new way of reading the time without the use of traditional hands. Rather sub-dial discs continually revolve, as does the main disc into which they are set. They are an integral part of the curved dial and their graphs appear to be projected onto the top crystal as if onto a screen.

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The ROCS employs a specially modified automatic caliber that gives the minutes, and hence the base calculation of time, from which is extrapolated all the other temporal indications. The TYPE 3 features a six-part display complication: hours, minutes, runner, day of the week, date and oil temperature.
Because the oil’s volume will fluctuate with temperature, the watch is fitted with a system of seven small bellows. these compress when, with rising temperature, the oil volume increases, or expand if the temperature drops and the volume decreases. The result stabilises the fit of the oil within the watch. The system is indirectly connected to the oil temperature gauge on the dial, so the TYPE 3 owner can see a representation of the bellows capacity in action.
As the ROCS is physically separated from the rest of the watch, Ressence developed a unique magnetic transmission. Several 4_type3nmicro magnets, connected to each other, are positioned inside the oil-filled upper half and the dry lower half. The use of super conductors and the provision of a shield fully protect this system from any negative effects of magnetism.
The watch is run by the specially customised 2824/2 calibre, which comes with a 36 hour power reserve.

With the TYPE 3, Ressence introduced its oil-filled technology, a world first in mechanical horology. The entire upper half is filled with 35.7 mm of oil to obtain a visual effect which is stunning and truly unique. This creates an amazing legibility and the dial seems closer.
The TYPE 3’s case comprises two curved sapphire crystal glasses connected by a 2 mm wide titanium band. As a consequence of this curvature, the watch sits only on the middle of the wrist. Characteristic of Ressence design, the lack of a crown also contributes to this exemplary ease of wear. The entire sapphire case-back fulfils the winding and setting functions of the crown.

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater by Bulgari

After the world’s thinnest tourbillon model launched in 2014, Bulgari now launches the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, which earns the title of the smallest on the market. Bulgari is taking a new step in this field, once again pushing the limits. The Octo ist not just any watch. Already an iconic model, it reinvents itself in 2016 with a new collection..
The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater lays the foundations of a new approach to mechanics and to classic complications while extending Bulgari’s line of ultra-thin watches. With this timepiece the watch manufacturer also preserves its status and cultivates watchmaking traditions by combining extreme slenderness with one of the most elaborate horological complications.

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A striking watch implies a number of specific construction constraints and full command of certain distinctive skills in order to achieve the best possible outcome: an intense, crystal-clear chime with a perfectly uniform and regular cadence when the mechanism is activated. The aim was to achieve the perfect sound within the smallest possible space. Therefore, it had to made from titanium: in addition to its appreciable lightness, the properties of this low-density metal ensure the best possible sound diffusion.

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The circular-section gongs directly affixed to the case are individually fashioned and finished by hand throughout the production process, which involves many separate stages, as are the two hammers. The pusher activating the striking mechanism is positioned on the case middle at 9 o’clock. It is designed to guarantee continuous water resistance to 50 m.
The in-house developed and produced BVL Calibre 362 measures just 3.12 mm thick and the overall case thickness amounts to only 6.85 mm. It is hand-wound and delivers a 42-hour power reserve once fully wound.

The hour-markers on the dial – made from titanium like the case – feature an incised, cut-out design, as too does the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock: the openings serve to amplify resonance inside the case and thereby  optimise the sound effect.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater embodies a paradigm shift in terms of slenderness and lays the foundations of a new approach to mechanics and to classic complications, all the while preserving and cultivating watchmaking traditions.
This watch is a limited, 50-piece edition.