Unfathomable Precision: The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth

Favre-Leuba can look back at 281 years of brand history. The watch manufacturer is known for creating an interface of traditional watchmaking and the dynamic engineering spirit of today.
In 1968, Favre-Leuba has introduced its vision of the perfect dive watch, the Bathy. It was equipped with a depth gauge and was a milestone in mechanical instrument watches. It is a much sought-after collector’s piece today and the year 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of the Bathy. The perfect time to pave the way for a new legend – and the question, if it is possible to improve on excellence. The answer can be found in the new Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth.

The retrofuturistic design is a deliberate nod to the original 1968 Bathy. From a technical standpoint, however, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an entirely new creation. Its functionality and materials have not merely been improved upon – they have set a new standard. The case design is a homage to its popular predecessor and is complemented by bold, functional colors and easy-to-read hands.

The new case is crafted from titanium and, with its 48 mm diameter, guarantees perfect readability at the bigger dial.

The depth gauge in the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth turns on one of the established rules of watchmaking completely on its head. Never let water get inside of a watch? Quite the opposite. The new Bathy features apertures in the case back that actually invite water inside. It may sound crazy, but it isn’t: these openings are part of the depth gauge, which is hermetically separated from the movement. The concept is based on the compression of a specially designed membrane that is integrated into the case back. Water enters a separate chamber through the apertures, causing the membrane to compress as the pressure increases. A mechanical contact sensor inside the watch reacts to this compression and conveys the information via the hand of the depth gauge onto the dial.
The dive depth is displayed on a nonlinear display via a central hand on the dial. Depths up to 120 m can be measured extremely precisely. The scale for the first 30 m is finer, with two red marks at 5 and 10, where decompression stops may be necessary. The Raider Bathy 120 Memo Depth also features a mechanical depth memory (MemoDepth), which stores the maximum depth reached during a dive. The depth gauge at 3 o’clock reliably displays the value until it is reset via the screw-in pusher at 4 o’clock.

The Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is water-resistant up to 200m, as is the norm for a dive watch. Its optimal range of measurement is 120 m, more than double that of the original Bathy (50 m). A built-in mechanical limiter ensures that neither the pressure membrane nor the depth gauge are damaged if the wearer dives deeper that the optimal range.
Even on ambitious dives to depth where there is little light, all of the relevant information is perfectly readable. Design and features of the Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth are inspired by the belief, that unnecessary difficulties should not get between a diver and the thrill of the dive.

Like every professional dive watch, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is fitted with an unidirectional bezel. It turns only counterclockwise so that it is only possible to accidentally move the bezel in a direction, which would subtract from the planned dive time.
The watch is powered by the FL321 hand-wound movement. It is based on the EMC 3903M caliber, which has been completely re-engineered by Favre-Leuba. It features a 65-hour power reserve and a power-reserve indicator displayed at 12 o’clock.

The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an extraordinary instrument, inspired by the original Bathy yet re-interpreted and perfected. This watch is an achievement in the development of mechanical instrument watches – and impressively stylish as well.

Die Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth ist ein außergewöhnliches Instrument, das einen neuen Maßstab in Sachen Taucheruhren setzt und dabei ihre Impulse von der Ur-Bathy bezieht und diese neue interpretiert. Fantastisch aussehen tut sie außerdem.

Clear Design: The New Armin Strom Pure Resonance

Armin Strom is known for maintaining a pared-down approach when it comes to watches. This ensures the brand’s style of watchmaking remains focused on its essence. And with every new model Armin Strom heads further in that direction and the new Pure Resonance is no exception. This version too heads further in said direction, squarely placing emphasis on the watch’s most remarkable feature: the visible dual balances oscillating in resonance.

The goal of the Pure Resonance has not changed: to display the interesting resonant balances while improving overall precision. To this end, the twin seconds flyback mechanism of Caliber ARF15 was removed and replaced with one clear-cut subsidiary seconds subdial. The reason for this can be found in the straightforward approach to the movement: the fewer functions a timepiece must perform, the better it can concentrate on accuracy. In other words, with no superfluous functions the watch con focus fully on precisely providing the time.

The dial now offers just subdials for time displays. Roman numerals dominate the off-center subdial displaying hours and minutes in black and blue with blued steel hands, while a classic railroad track marks the exact minutes. The smaller subdial at 7 o’clock displays seconds using only a baton-styled white hand and a simple track.
The resonators are placed at the left side of the dial. The time displays receive their portioned energy from the lower regulator, while the upper regulator remains in place to create resonance.

This conceptual forthrightness is reflected in the design of the movement: the basic calibre ARF16 showcases the resonant regulators and resonance clutch spring. New bridges are decorated with côtes de Genève. The mechanical movement beats at a frequency of 25,200 vph and provides a power reserve of 48 hours minimum.

The outward design of this new Pure Resonance has been kept also pure. The case has a diameter of 42 mm and comes in rose gold or stainless steel. It is 1.4 mm smaller than the original version, comes with reduced lugs and crown and practically no bezel. The characteristic lip at 6 o’clock remains, therefore it can be customized easily.
The case is water resistant up to 5 atm and comes with a leather bracelet.

RJ-Romain Jerome’s Newest Piece: RJ x Spider-Man

RJ-Romain Jerome has once again joined forces with Marvel, one of the biggest entertainment companies in the world. Because that’s what the watch manufacturer does, and does best. The result is another exceptional piece, this time dedicated to the most agile Super Hero: Spider-Man.
Spider-Man has widely spread into pop culture from its first appearance in the early sixties in a comic book to today. He is one of Marvel’s best known and most popular Super Heroes, he is also part of the Avengers, and since the first Spider-Man movie featuring Tobey Maguire in 2002, Marvel is reigning over the Super Hero movie universe with an iron fist.

The RJ x Spider-Man is presented in RJ-Romain Jerome’s elegant Skylab case which follows the rule of a classic round-shaped case with four lugs. Enhanced with the four paws characteristic for Romain Jerome, the all black case, made from PVD-coated steel with a satin-finish, reveals a skeleton movement offering endless transparency. The case offers a diameter of massive 48 mm and is waterproof up to 3 bar.
The intricacy of the model also resides in the different perspectives on the dial and the elements that intertwine – the central, bright red spider-shaped applique, the transparency of the skeleton as well as the web metallized on the sapphire crystal. The timeless spider logo is taking center stage on the dial and is probably the best evocation of the character Peter Parker, whose life changed forever with the bite of a radioactive spider.

The modern 3-layer movement featuring straight bridges and chamfered angles comes from the RJ-Romain Jerome design labs. The calibre RJ004-M is a mechanical movement that works at 28,800 vph and grants a power reserve of 48 hours minimum. It features only hours and minutes.

The RJ x Spider-Man comes with a black rubber strap.
This edition is limited to 75 pieces and every one will cost 20.950€.

The De Bethune DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite

Futuristic designs combined with a tourbillon have become some kind of a specialty of De Bethune. Fans love the distinctive designs and it has to be said that these special creations fit seamlessly with the other models in the collection which offers other spacy wristwatches too.
The newest tourbillon, that answers to such a description is the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Meteroite, a watch, which is equipped with a dial made from an actual meteorite. May this be the ultimate watch for the space enthusiast?

This watch is not for the faint of heart, just look at the stunning, truly galactic colours. For me, it wasn’t obvious at first sight – the design is just too stunning -, I had to take a second look, but the case of the DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite is blue. Of a deep, rich blue to be exact and it doesn’t come from a PVD coating. De Bethune created the colour in the same process that is used to blue screws. And this heat-based technique has basically been applied to every visible piece of metal in this watch. And this makes for one impressive outcome.
The case measures 42.6mm in diameter and 9.7mm in height.

But the dial is undeniably at the centre of attention. It is, after all, made from an actual meteorite which landed about 5,000 years ago in Argentina, in Santiago del Estero. How cool is that? With this watch one wears a piece on the wrist which has traveled through outer space. And the looks the comet brings at the table is truly magnificent. It radiates in blue, violett and little bit of pink and not only complements the colour of the case but also reminds us of nebulas and galaxies. To intensify this marvellous effect, De Bethune has added tiny stars in white gold. It might seem impossible but with all this gorgeousness the big tourbillon at 6 o’clock can nearly be overlooked. And of course the pink gold of the hour and minute hand fits perfectly to the colours of the dial.

The watch is powered by the DB2019v3m a hand-wound nechanical tourbillon movement. The power reserve indicator is located on the back. It can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back as well as the blue movement. The power reserve indicator in pink gold contrasts beautifully with the deep blue.

The De Bethune DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite clearly isn’t a watch for everyone – it really can’t be because it is a unique piece. The watch costs 280,000 CHF and will be introduced at next year’s Baselworld.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel

H. Moser & Cie. is a small, independent Swiss watchmaker, only producing about 1,200 watches every year. Many of you will possibly know H. Moser & Cie. because of its watches featuring a perpetual calendar.
The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar was first introduced by Moser in 2015, first only in a pink gold version. Now the manufacturer has presented a version in steel with a striking midnight-blue dial. But this is not the first perpetual calendar watch H. Moser & Cie. produced in a steel version – this would be the Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue Dial. With the new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar there’s once more a deep-blue dial, but in this watch the case is bolder.

The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel features a magnificent midnight-blue fumé dial. The luminescent dots on the flange and the hands filled with Super-LumiNova allow the display to be read at any time of the day.
Many manufacturers lean on complicated dials for watches featuring a perpetual calendar – H. Moser & Cie. does nothing of that sort. The dial is simple, clean and absolutely easy to read. With this decision Moser stays true to its philosophy and the previous models of this watch.
The perpetual calendar consists of two different displays. At 3 o’clock you will find a normal date window. And then there’s a small central hand which indicates the months. 1 o’clock symbolises January, 2 o’clock February and so on. The leap year-display is placed on the bottom of the watch, visible through the sapphire case back.
Apart from that you will also find a small second at 6 o’clock as well as a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. It is quite important to not lose sight of the latter because it can be a hassle to newly adjust a perpetual calendar. We would recommend to avoid that – and keep the movement wound.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in steel is powered by the HMC 800 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement. It provides a power reserve of at least seven days (or 168 hours), works at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and features a double barrel.
The movement is housed in a steel case with 42.8mm in diameter and 11.3mm in height. And: with this handsome watch you can also go scuba diving – the case is water-resistant up to 120 metres.
For the strap, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen black alligator leather.

Bolder, suited for everyday-wear and thanks to the steel case a little more affordable – with this watch H. Moser & Cie. created a beautiful timepiece many will want to have in their collection.

Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance in Steel

The first Mirrored Force Resonance in rose gold was introduced by Armin Strom in 2016. Now the manufacturer has added another model in stainless steel. We are looking at the Mirrored Force Resonance “Water” today, not only because it’s a beautiful piece of high-end watchmaking, but also because it is more affordable than its predecessor “Fire”.

Two oscillating bodies in close proximity influence each other and eventually synchronize; this is a phenomenon of physics known as resonance. Towards the end of the year 2016, Armin Strom introduced the Mirrored Force Resonance, a resonating dual regulator developed for maximum precision with its whole captivating mechanism on full display dial side.
Since there are only very few wristwatches which use the principle of resonance, Armin Strom has joined an exclusive club with using – and mastering – this sophisticated horological technique.

The two connected oscillators of the ARF 15 Calibre make their revolutions in opposite directions, one rotating clockwise and the other counterclockwise. After winding, the twin balance wheels need approximately 10 minutes to become synchronous. The calibre works with 25.200 vph and provides a power reserve of  48 hours after being fully wound.

Apart from the material of the case, the style and size remained the same. The Mirrored Force Resonance in steel comes with a diameter of 43.4 mm and a height of 13 mm. It is water-resistant up to 50 metres.
At 2 o’clock you will find a case band pusher. it resets the twin seconds’ displays to zero, simultaneously resetting the twin balance wheels.

Armin Strom has equipped the Mirrored Force Resonance in Steel with a dark blue alligator strap, dedicated to the element of water.
The manufacturer is known for producing four versions of many of his watches, dedicated to the four elements. We are really looking forward to what will come next after fire and water and how these versions will not only look but fit in with the rest of the collection.

Special Edition: London Chronograph by Speake-Marin

This spring, Speake-Marin unveils a special edition dedicated to the early years of the British watchmaker peter Speake-Marin. The London Chronograph is a special edition and it will only be available in the Fine Watch Room at Harrods, in London during this summer.
After qualifying as a horologist a London’s Hackney College and deepening his knowledge of watch making in Switzerland, Peter Speake-Marin met Georges Somlo in 1990. Speake-Marin stayed in Somlo’s Piccadilly arcade for six years, restoring al manor of early pocket and wrist watches. The London Chronograph is a tribute not only to this years but also to the watches Speake-Marin learned to love back then.

CHRONO CLASS_FRONT 01 BK (72dpi)

The chronograph is powered by a Valjoux 92 made during the 1950’s and 60’s. As with many mechanical calibres the quartz revolution in the late 60’s cut short the life of this and many other calibres. Therefore today these calibres are rare and it was chosen by Peter Speake-Marin because it is the same type of movement he had restored during his time in London during the 1990’s while working with Georges Somlo.

The Valjoux 92 succeeded the popular Valjoux 23 family. It was similarly sized but used a different technology. It was an oscillating pinion design, distinct at a glance for having two rather than three chronograph engagement wheels visible at the back. The historical chronograph movement were used by companies like Patek Philippe, Rolex and TAG Heuer. The mechanical hand wound movement beats with 18.000 beats per hour and features a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The London Chronograph is housed in a 42 mm titanium case with a three dimensional white dial. On the dial, the Arabic numbers alternate with Roman numerals to bring a vintage touch. The red 12 has classical connotations and associations with early pocket and wrist watches made in England.
The centre seconds chronograph is married in color to the 30 minute recorder hand located at 3 o’clock on the dial. The two subsidiary dials for the 30 minute recorder and the seconds dial are both seen to float on the dial and below them is found the Speake-marin topping tool logo wheel fitted to the hour wheel turning with the hour hand. The Central Speake-Marin signature Foundation style hands in heat blued steel bring the final touch to this special edition.

CHRONO CLASS_ART 01 (500ko)The London Chronograph is equipped with a black rubber strap and water resistant up to 3 atm. It will only be available the coming summer like mentioned before and it’s priced at £14.400.

The Quai de l’île collection welcomes a new family member

In 2008 Vacheron Constantin launched the Quai de l’île collection. Now there’s a new family member, a stainless steel model, providing a contemporary expression of the watchmaking traditions upheld by the company. With its contemporary design, its distinctive character and its excellence attested by the Hallmark of Geneva, the Quai de l’île collection embodies an avant-garde aesthetic version of watchmaking traditions.

Quai de l'île 3The timepiece features a sturdy light stainless steel case, enhanced with alternating polished and satin-brushed finishes. It measures 41 mm in diameter and associates three iconic shapes from the aesthetic heritage of Vacheron Constantin: a round bezel, a cushion-type case and a barrel caseband. This shape in shape design creates an original aesthetic. The case back with is transparent, allowing you to watch the movement.

The The Quai de l’île is equipped with the new manufacture self-winding calibre 5100. The movement comprising 172 components was entirely designed, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin. It drives hours, minutes, central seconds and date functions. Steadily beating at a rate of 28.800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and designed for an active lifestyle, this movement features excellent resistance to impacts as well as a comfortable over 60-hour power reserve guaranteed by its twin barrels.

Quai de l'île 4500S/000A-B195

The dial is distinguished by a multi-level construction interpreted in two versions – silver-toned or black – with an opaline finish. Composed of three distinct parts, this display with its depth effects ensures remarkable legibility thanks to its hour-markers and Arabic numerals entirely made of white luminescent material. Another distinctive feature is the replacement of the traditional aperture-type date by a two-level date indication. The dial construction includes a transparent mineral glass disc on which the dates of the month are inked. Beneath this glass, the date disc of the movement appears and displays an indicator which points towards the correct date.

The watch is water-resistant to 30 metres and will be delivered with two straps – one in brown alligator leather and the other in black rubber.

Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition from Carl F. Bucherer

csm_tourbillon_brown_detail01_c0a2d8b70fAlmost one hundred years – since 1919 – Swiss watch manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer is around and he was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the watch strap. The brand was repositioned in 2001 and in the same year the company launched the now famous Patravi watch collection.
Since its development in the late 1700s the tourbillon is regarded as one of the great challenges and as the supreme discipline in the art of watchmaking in view of its complexity and mechanical sophistication. The function of the tourbillon is to csm_tourbillon_brown_detail02_3e4174279fcompensate for the errors in accuracy of a mechanical watch that are caused by the effects of gravity. Therefore the escapement and balance wheel are mounted in a rotating cage which revolves once a minute.

Carl F. Bucherer launches the Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition 2015 in an exclusive edition of 188 pieces. The shiny velvet brown of the dial which was specially developed for the watch manufacturer. The indices and hands are in red gold, like the case.
The dial is not only functional but easy to read as well. The watch features two subdials – the one at 9 o’clock shows the power reserve, the one on 12 o’clock the 24-hour display. But the tourbillon on 6 o’clock dominates the dial. The design is generous and stylish and it provides an unimpeded view of the complication.
The elegant shaped rose gold case measures 41,8 mm in diameter and 12,58 mm in csm_tourbillon_brown_detail03_31284f0f87height and should be suitable for almost every wrist without appearing oversized. The watch features a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating over the dial. The watch is water-resistant to 30 metres.

The Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition is powered by the manual winding calibre CFB T1001. It provides a power reserve of 70 hours.
In this sophisticated timepiece, Carl F. Bucherer unites the classic elegance of the Manero line with the supreme achievement represented by the tourbillon.
The watch features a brown leather bracelet.

For the Nintendo Fans: The RJ-Romain Jerome Super Mario Bros.

RJ.M.AU_.IN_.011.01-Romain-Jerome-Super-Mario-Bros-watchFor all Super Mario fans the wait is finally over – RJ-Romain Jerome is now releasing the Super Mario Bros. collection. In honor of the game’s 30th anniversary (wow, aren’t we getting old!) RJ-Romain Jerome is adding the center piece to its Generational Icons collection. And another watch to the luxury “nostalgia” watches out there.

In a 46mm case the watchmaker has recreated the original Super Mario Bros. game from 1985. Nintendo’s legendary character Mario is dressed in his recognisable red shirt and blue overalls with his famous Romain-Jerome-Super-Mario-Bros-watchjump and iconic mushroom. These most symbolic elements of the game are eye-catchingly depicted on the dial and are all captured in the visual stye that captivaded more than one generation. And that’s hardly surprising, because Super Mario was one of the first video game characters that entered pop culture in a serious way while being “human”.

In order to accentuate the pixelation with perfect geometrical forms, the dial was built on a complex three layered plate with different finishes, either bead-blasted or drawn out for both the RJ-Romain Jerome monogram and the ground setting, which offers an overall 3D effect. All appliques, representing Super Mario, along with his mushroom, a cloud and bush, were hand-painted in cold enamel with the 30th anniversary colours and then set on the dial to add even more perspecitve to the ensemble.

RJ-Super-Mario-Bros-watchThe timepiece is presented in RJ-Romain Jerome’s distinctive Moon Invader case in titanium grade 5 with a black PVD-coating. The lugs are fitted with safety screws for optimal wrist adjustment. The watch is powered by the mechanical self-winding movement RJ001-A. It provides a power reserve of 42 hours as well as central hours and minutes. Central and minute hands are all to distract the wearer from the Super Mario scene.

To echo 1985, the year the game launched, the Super Mario Bros. watch is limited to 85 pieces. It will be officially introduced at the end of 2015.