Patek Philippe: Impressive Technology Beautifully Wrapped

Ah, with one of its newest watches, Patek Philippe seduces all the ladies out there who want a beautiful, luxurious watch that simultaneously satisfies their needs for technical excellence. As early as 2009 the manufacturer introduced a chronograph exclusively for feminine wrists. It was the debut of a classic manufacture-made chronograph movement  (column wheel, horizontal clutch, manual winding) that had been developed entirely in-house. That was also expressed by the name of the watch: Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, built until 2016. And now, the Genevan manufacture is enriching its collection with a new, captivating model.

The new chronograph Ref. 7150/250R-001 is a technically sophisticated watch with a totally new face. The cushion-shaped case has been replaced with an elegant, round rose-gold case with a diameter of 38 mm featuring a bezel set with 72 diamonds. Its timelessly sleek design is emphasized by refined vintage looking details such as the fluted and curved lugs, the round chronograph pushers with guilloched faces, and the cambered sapphire-crystal “box” glass. The case is water-resistant up to 3 bar.

The silvery opaline dial also combines a contemporary style with classic aesthetics, showcasing sculpted Breguet hour and minute hands in rose gold and a display layout that makes it eminently legible. At 3.30 you’ll find the 30-minute-counter and the running seconds is placed at 9.30. The pulsometer scale of the new model pays tribute to the tradition of classic chronographs that can measure the cadence of an active lifestyle or slightly increased heart rate of its proud owner.

The compact case accommodates the manually winding calibre CH 29-535 PS movement with an instantaneous 30-minute counter. Patek Philippe has crowned its classic architecture with six patented innovations and its lavish finissage can be admired through the box-type sapphire-crystal case back that is slightly chamfered to echo the profil of the rear bezel. The movement works with 28.800 vph and boasts a power reserve of 65 hours.

The Ref. 7150/250R-001 is worn on a shiny mink gray alligator leather strap. Its rose gold buckle is encrusted with 27 diamonds.

Sculptured, Enigmatic, Architectural: The New HYT

Sculpture gives mass meaning. The latest H20 from HYT looks to this visual art that operates in three dimensions to shed light on the essence of time. Viewed from any aspect, the sculpted timepiece unveils new angles on time, while colored and clear liquids keep its essential flow permanently present. Second by second, further layers of time are revealed, witnessed and anticipated.

The all-black color-scheme, right through to the coating of the movement’s bridges, intensifies the visual drama between mystery and transparency. This intrinsic interplay of time and space brings to life the core HYT belief that time is defined by content and context.
These timepieces represent the culmination of a quest to define and capture the essence of time. Its conclusion is clear: the time is now – always.

In these two new limited editions of the H20, the three-dimensional quality of the design acquires additional visual tension. A striking contrast between black diamond-like carbon coating and the doomed crystal hosting apparently floating digits. The whole presents an architectural entity, tempting the eye to take a new perspective on time – and watchmaking.
The skeletonized numerals ring features white lacquered interior and black indices. The minute hand as well as the HNR hand are equipped with Super-LumiNova. The stainless steel case combines polished an satin finished surfaces and features a diameter of 51 mm while measuring 19.95 mm in height. The case is water resistant up to 3 atm.

The blue (and red) liquid traces the path of time’s recent journey while replacing the clear liquid beyond the meniscus. The liquids are pushed through the capillary tubes by multi-layered metal bellows.
The patented fluidic module works in collaborates with a mechanical movement exclusively developed for HYT by APRP. Seamless transition between these two protagonists is assured by the conversion of rotation into linear motion via a cam-follower system. This calibre works at a frequency of 3 Hz and boasts a gigantic power reserve of 192 hours.

The HYT H20 comes with a black rubber bracelet. The watch is a limited edition of only 10 pieces, so if you really want one of these, you better hurry.

Autobahn: Nomos Glashütte in Pole Position

The newest addition to the collection of Nomos Glashütte, the Autobahn neomatik 41 date, was off to a flying start when introduced last spring. With its eclectic design, the watch not only generated a buzz, it was also nominated for the Red Dot Award – and won it in the end. It is the first big prize for this sporty automatic model – but not for Nomos Glashütte. Ten other models of the manufacturer are already honored with this esteemed prize which stands for innovative products with outstanding form, function, aesthetics and quality.
So let’s look at this new watch, which has – both aesthetically and technically – plenty to offer.

The curves of the dial and the sub-seconds entice the eye to explore this timepiece’s unfamiliar depths. The elongated date window at six o’clock is particularly easy to read, displaying three days at a glance. In addition, it is elegantly curved, integrating itself beautifully into the dial. The luminous ring of Super-LumiNova makes the Autobahn neomatik 41 date easily readable even at night. We also love the orange accents on the dial: the neomatik logo, the tip of the hour hand as well as the hand of the small seconds at 6 o’clock. The subdial of the latter is lowered very beautifully and ingeniously, creating more gentle curves and depth.

Within the slender yet robust stainless steel case, which boasts a diameter of 41 mm and a 10 atm water-resistance, ticks the second highly complex and highly precise neomatic caliber from Nomos Glashütte, this time with a date function: DUW 6101. Just like the first neomatik caliber, this one is ultra-slim – even with its self-winding mechanism and date function.
Along with the white silver-plated version, Autobahn neomatik 41 date also comes with dials in midnight blue and sports gray.

The Nomos Glashütte Autobahn neomatik 41 date is for everyone who loves clean lines, swift curves and perfectly executed surfaces. We are already convinced.

Unfathomable Precision: The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth

Favre-Leuba can look back at 281 years of brand history. The watch manufacturer is known for creating an interface of traditional watchmaking and the dynamic engineering spirit of today.
In 1968, Favre-Leuba has introduced its vision of the perfect dive watch, the Bathy. It was equipped with a depth gauge and was a milestone in mechanical instrument watches. It is a much sought-after collector’s piece today and the year 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of the Bathy. The perfect time to pave the way for a new legend – and the question, if it is possible to improve on excellence. The answer can be found in the new Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth.

The retrofuturistic design is a deliberate nod to the original 1968 Bathy. From a technical standpoint, however, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an entirely new creation. Its functionality and materials have not merely been improved upon – they have set a new standard. The case design is a homage to its popular predecessor and is complemented by bold, functional colors and easy-to-read hands.

The new case is crafted from titanium and, with its 48 mm diameter, guarantees perfect readability at the bigger dial.

The depth gauge in the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth turns on one of the established rules of watchmaking completely on its head. Never let water get inside of a watch? Quite the opposite. The new Bathy features apertures in the case back that actually invite water inside. It may sound crazy, but it isn’t: these openings are part of the depth gauge, which is hermetically separated from the movement. The concept is based on the compression of a specially designed membrane that is integrated into the case back. Water enters a separate chamber through the apertures, causing the membrane to compress as the pressure increases. A mechanical contact sensor inside the watch reacts to this compression and conveys the information via the hand of the depth gauge onto the dial.
The dive depth is displayed on a nonlinear display via a central hand on the dial. Depths up to 120 m can be measured extremely precisely. The scale for the first 30 m is finer, with two red marks at 5 and 10, where decompression stops may be necessary. The Raider Bathy 120 Memo Depth also features a mechanical depth memory (MemoDepth), which stores the maximum depth reached during a dive. The depth gauge at 3 o’clock reliably displays the value until it is reset via the screw-in pusher at 4 o’clock.

The Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is water-resistant up to 200m, as is the norm for a dive watch. Its optimal range of measurement is 120 m, more than double that of the original Bathy (50 m). A built-in mechanical limiter ensures that neither the pressure membrane nor the depth gauge are damaged if the wearer dives deeper that the optimal range.
Even on ambitious dives to depth where there is little light, all of the relevant information is perfectly readable. Design and features of the Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth are inspired by the belief, that unnecessary difficulties should not get between a diver and the thrill of the dive.

Like every professional dive watch, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is fitted with an unidirectional bezel. It turns only counterclockwise so that it is only possible to accidentally move the bezel in a direction, which would subtract from the planned dive time.
The watch is powered by the FL321 hand-wound movement. It is based on the EMC 3903M caliber, which has been completely re-engineered by Favre-Leuba. It features a 65-hour power reserve and a power-reserve indicator displayed at 12 o’clock.

The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an extraordinary instrument, inspired by the original Bathy yet re-interpreted and perfected. This watch is an achievement in the development of mechanical instrument watches – and impressively stylish as well.

Die Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth ist ein außergewöhnliches Instrument, das einen neuen Maßstab in Sachen Taucheruhren setzt und dabei ihre Impulse von der Ur-Bathy bezieht und diese neue interpretiert. Fantastisch aussehen tut sie außerdem.

Clear Design: The New Armin Strom Pure Resonance

Armin Strom is known for maintaining a pared-down approach when it comes to watches. This ensures the brand’s style of watchmaking remains focused on its essence. And with every new model Armin Strom heads further in that direction and the new Pure Resonance is no exception. This version too heads further in said direction, squarely placing emphasis on the watch’s most remarkable feature: the visible dual balances oscillating in resonance.

The goal of the Pure Resonance has not changed: to display the interesting resonant balances while improving overall precision. To this end, the twin seconds flyback mechanism of Caliber ARF15 was removed and replaced with one clear-cut subsidiary seconds subdial. The reason for this can be found in the straightforward approach to the movement: the fewer functions a timepiece must perform, the better it can concentrate on accuracy. In other words, with no superfluous functions the watch con focus fully on precisely providing the time.

The dial now offers just subdials for time displays. Roman numerals dominate the off-center subdial displaying hours and minutes in black and blue with blued steel hands, while a classic railroad track marks the exact minutes. The smaller subdial at 7 o’clock displays seconds using only a baton-styled white hand and a simple track.
The resonators are placed at the left side of the dial. The time displays receive their portioned energy from the lower regulator, while the upper regulator remains in place to create resonance.

This conceptual forthrightness is reflected in the design of the movement: the basic calibre ARF16 showcases the resonant regulators and resonance clutch spring. New bridges are decorated with côtes de Genève. The mechanical movement beats at a frequency of 25,200 vph and provides a power reserve of 48 hours minimum.

The outward design of this new Pure Resonance has been kept also pure. The case has a diameter of 42 mm and comes in rose gold or stainless steel. It is 1.4 mm smaller than the original version, comes with reduced lugs and crown and practically no bezel. The characteristic lip at 6 o’clock remains, therefore it can be customized easily.
The case is water resistant up to 5 atm and comes with a leather bracelet.

RJ-Romain Jerome’s Newest Piece: RJ x Spider-Man

RJ-Romain Jerome has once again joined forces with Marvel, one of the biggest entertainment companies in the world. Because that’s what the watch manufacturer does, and does best. The result is another exceptional piece, this time dedicated to the most agile Super Hero: Spider-Man.
Spider-Man has widely spread into pop culture from its first appearance in the early sixties in a comic book to today. He is one of Marvel’s best known and most popular Super Heroes, he is also part of the Avengers, and since the first Spider-Man movie featuring Tobey Maguire in 2002, Marvel is reigning over the Super Hero movie universe with an iron fist.

The RJ x Spider-Man is presented in RJ-Romain Jerome’s elegant Skylab case which follows the rule of a classic round-shaped case with four lugs. Enhanced with the four paws characteristic for Romain Jerome, the all black case, made from PVD-coated steel with a satin-finish, reveals a skeleton movement offering endless transparency. The case offers a diameter of massive 48 mm and is waterproof up to 3 bar.
The intricacy of the model also resides in the different perspectives on the dial and the elements that intertwine – the central, bright red spider-shaped applique, the transparency of the skeleton as well as the web metallized on the sapphire crystal. The timeless spider logo is taking center stage on the dial and is probably the best evocation of the character Peter Parker, whose life changed forever with the bite of a radioactive spider.

The modern 3-layer movement featuring straight bridges and chamfered angles comes from the RJ-Romain Jerome design labs. The calibre RJ004-M is a mechanical movement that works at 28,800 vph and grants a power reserve of 48 hours minimum. It features only hours and minutes.

The RJ x Spider-Man comes with a black rubber strap.
This edition is limited to 75 pieces and every one will cost 20.950€.

The De Bethune DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite

Futuristic designs combined with a tourbillon have become some kind of a specialty of De Bethune. Fans love the distinctive designs and it has to be said that these special creations fit seamlessly with the other models in the collection which offers other spacy wristwatches too.
The newest tourbillon, that answers to such a description is the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon Meteroite, a watch, which is equipped with a dial made from an actual meteorite. May this be the ultimate watch for the space enthusiast?

This watch is not for the faint of heart, just look at the stunning, truly galactic colours. For me, it wasn’t obvious at first sight – the design is just too stunning -, I had to take a second look, but the case of the DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite is blue. Of a deep, rich blue to be exact and it doesn’t come from a PVD coating. De Bethune created the colour in the same process that is used to blue screws. And this heat-based technique has basically been applied to every visible piece of metal in this watch. And this makes for one impressive outcome.
The case measures 42.6mm in diameter and 9.7mm in height.

But the dial is undeniably at the centre of attention. It is, after all, made from an actual meteorite which landed about 5,000 years ago in Argentina, in Santiago del Estero. How cool is that? With this watch one wears a piece on the wrist which has traveled through outer space. And the looks the comet brings at the table is truly magnificent. It radiates in blue, violett and little bit of pink and not only complements the colour of the case but also reminds us of nebulas and galaxies. To intensify this marvellous effect, De Bethune has added tiny stars in white gold. It might seem impossible but with all this gorgeousness the big tourbillon at 6 o’clock can nearly be overlooked. And of course the pink gold of the hour and minute hand fits perfectly to the colours of the dial.

The watch is powered by the DB2019v3m a hand-wound nechanical tourbillon movement. The power reserve indicator is located on the back. It can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back as well as the blue movement. The power reserve indicator in pink gold contrasts beautifully with the deep blue.

The De Bethune DB28 Kind Of Blue Tourbillon Meteorite clearly isn’t a watch for everyone – it really can’t be because it is a unique piece. The watch costs 280,000 CHF and will be introduced at next year’s Baselworld.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel

H. Moser & Cie. is a small, independent Swiss watchmaker, only producing about 1,200 watches every year. Many of you will possibly know H. Moser & Cie. because of its watches featuring a perpetual calendar.
The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar was first introduced by Moser in 2015, first only in a pink gold version. Now the manufacturer has presented a version in steel with a striking midnight-blue dial. But this is not the first perpetual calendar watch H. Moser & Cie. produced in a steel version – this would be the Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue Dial. With the new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar there’s once more a deep-blue dial, but in this watch the case is bolder.

The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel features a magnificent midnight-blue fumé dial. The luminescent dots on the flange and the hands filled with Super-LumiNova allow the display to be read at any time of the day.
Many manufacturers lean on complicated dials for watches featuring a perpetual calendar – H. Moser & Cie. does nothing of that sort. The dial is simple, clean and absolutely easy to read. With this decision Moser stays true to its philosophy and the previous models of this watch.
The perpetual calendar consists of two different displays. At 3 o’clock you will find a normal date window. And then there’s a small central hand which indicates the months. 1 o’clock symbolises January, 2 o’clock February and so on. The leap year-display is placed on the bottom of the watch, visible through the sapphire case back.
Apart from that you will also find a small second at 6 o’clock as well as a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. It is quite important to not lose sight of the latter because it can be a hassle to newly adjust a perpetual calendar. We would recommend to avoid that – and keep the movement wound.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in steel is powered by the HMC 800 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement. It provides a power reserve of at least seven days (or 168 hours), works at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and features a double barrel.
The movement is housed in a steel case with 42.8mm in diameter and 11.3mm in height. And: with this handsome watch you can also go scuba diving – the case is water-resistant up to 120 metres.
For the strap, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen black alligator leather.

Bolder, suited for everyday-wear and thanks to the steel case a little more affordable – with this watch H. Moser & Cie. created a beautiful timepiece many will want to have in their collection.

Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance in Steel

The first Mirrored Force Resonance in rose gold was introduced by Armin Strom in 2016. Now the manufacturer has added another model in stainless steel. We are looking at the Mirrored Force Resonance “Water” today, not only because it’s a beautiful piece of high-end watchmaking, but also because it is more affordable than its predecessor “Fire”.

Two oscillating bodies in close proximity influence each other and eventually synchronize; this is a phenomenon of physics known as resonance. Towards the end of the year 2016, Armin Strom introduced the Mirrored Force Resonance, a resonating dual regulator developed for maximum precision with its whole captivating mechanism on full display dial side.
Since there are only very few wristwatches which use the principle of resonance, Armin Strom has joined an exclusive club with using – and mastering – this sophisticated horological technique.

The two connected oscillators of the ARF 15 Calibre make their revolutions in opposite directions, one rotating clockwise and the other counterclockwise. After winding, the twin balance wheels need approximately 10 minutes to become synchronous. The calibre works with 25.200 vph and provides a power reserve of  48 hours after being fully wound.

Apart from the material of the case, the style and size remained the same. The Mirrored Force Resonance in steel comes with a diameter of 43.4 mm and a height of 13 mm. It is water-resistant up to 50 metres.
At 2 o’clock you will find a case band pusher. it resets the twin seconds’ displays to zero, simultaneously resetting the twin balance wheels.

Armin Strom has equipped the Mirrored Force Resonance in Steel with a dark blue alligator strap, dedicated to the element of water.
The manufacturer is known for producing four versions of many of his watches, dedicated to the four elements. We are really looking forward to what will come next after fire and water and how these versions will not only look but fit in with the rest of the collection.

Special Edition: London Chronograph by Speake-Marin

This spring, Speake-Marin unveils a special edition dedicated to the early years of the British watchmaker peter Speake-Marin. The London Chronograph is a special edition and it will only be available in the Fine Watch Room at Harrods, in London during this summer.
After qualifying as a horologist a London’s Hackney College and deepening his knowledge of watch making in Switzerland, Peter Speake-Marin met Georges Somlo in 1990. Speake-Marin stayed in Somlo’s Piccadilly arcade for six years, restoring al manor of early pocket and wrist watches. The London Chronograph is a tribute not only to this years but also to the watches Speake-Marin learned to love back then.

CHRONO CLASS_FRONT 01 BK (72dpi)

The chronograph is powered by a Valjoux 92 made during the 1950’s and 60’s. As with many mechanical calibres the quartz revolution in the late 60’s cut short the life of this and many other calibres. Therefore today these calibres are rare and it was chosen by Peter Speake-Marin because it is the same type of movement he had restored during his time in London during the 1990’s while working with Georges Somlo.

The Valjoux 92 succeeded the popular Valjoux 23 family. It was similarly sized but used a different technology. It was an oscillating pinion design, distinct at a glance for having two rather than three chronograph engagement wheels visible at the back. The historical chronograph movement were used by companies like Patek Philippe, Rolex and TAG Heuer. The mechanical hand wound movement beats with 18.000 beats per hour and features a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The London Chronograph is housed in a 42 mm titanium case with a three dimensional white dial. On the dial, the Arabic numbers alternate with Roman numerals to bring a vintage touch. The red 12 has classical connotations and associations with early pocket and wrist watches made in England.
The centre seconds chronograph is married in color to the 30 minute recorder hand located at 3 o’clock on the dial. The two subsidiary dials for the 30 minute recorder and the seconds dial are both seen to float on the dial and below them is found the Speake-marin topping tool logo wheel fitted to the hour wheel turning with the hour hand. The Central Speake-Marin signature Foundation style hands in heat blued steel bring the final touch to this special edition.

CHRONO CLASS_ART 01 (500ko)The London Chronograph is equipped with a black rubber strap and water resistant up to 3 atm. It will only be available the coming summer like mentioned before and it’s priced at £14.400.