Schlagwort-Archive: automatic movement

Vacheron Constantin Has a New Horological Muse

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The Égérie is the new horolocial muse of Vacheron Constantin, and it joins the world of Haute Manufacture. In this new collection dedicated to women, Haute Horlogerie meets Haute Couture, seen through the prism of craftsmanship, precision, excellence and beauty.
The sophisticated style of Haute Couture is subtly paired with the asymmetrical aesthetic faithfully perpetuating the Vacheron Constantin heritage. Thus, the new Érégie collection weaves the face of watchmaking femininity; a watch featuring a classic look, draped with a mischievous touch: inspiring, independent and charismatic.
The feminine name of this collection derives from the famous nymph Egeria featured in Roman mythology to the contemporary muses who inspire artists and designers.

A delicate interplay of textures and intertwined shapes, alternating flat and raised areas; a pleated effect reminiscent of fabric; a singular asymmetry borne by a fluid aesthetic: such is the exquisite aesthetic of the Égérie watch.
Égérie is also the modern interpretation of aesthetic codes cherished by Vacheron Constantin, which has been offering off-centre displays since the early 19th century, notably by playing on two intertwined circles. Égérie has made this its signature touch. The date or moon-phase integration is thus part of a subtle diagonal line formed by the logo and the crown daringly placed between 1 and 2 o’clock. Depending on the model, the latter is adorned with a cabochon-cut moonstone or a rose-cut diamond.

A dial featuring a pleaded pattern. A diamond halo resembling slender braiding and accentuating the feminine shape of the case. And above all, sophistication in every detail, expressed through pleasingly harmonious geometry punctuated by gold Arabic numerals, daintily scalloped like lace.

The Érégie self-winding is availbable in rose gold or stainless steel. The 35 mm pebble-shaped case is crowned with a slender bezel overstitched with 58 diamonds. The dial sets the stage for a delicate opaline silver work of art composed of concentric circles, graced with a pleated pattern. The calligraphic numerals evoke fine embroidery, while the leaf-type hours and minutes hands recall fine needles used by nimble fingers.
The Égérie self-winding is powered by the calibre 1088, an in-house automatic movement that provides a power-reserve of 40 hours.

The night star is at the very heart of the Égérie moon phase model, which comes in a 37 mm case in rose gold or steel, which a diamond-set bezel. An offset circle glittering with 36 diamonds displays a dreamlike version of time, with the gold moon appearing in a starry sky revealed behind clouds formed by a delicate mother-of-pearl assembly. The enchanting charm of this model is further enhanced by its opaline silver dial and pleated pattern.
The Égérie moon phase model is available in stainless steel or rose gold; both versions feature a generous diamond setting. Both are also fitted with the calibre 1088L.
But – the Égérie moon phase is also available as diamond-pavé model in white gold. Its white gold case bears 292 diamonds, while the dial deploys its concentric circles amid a shower of 510 diamonds.

Vacheron Constantin supplies all models on either stainless steel or leather straps, depending on the version.

The Updated Omega Constellation Gents‘ Collection

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For the Swiss watchmaker Omega, the pursuit of excellence is a lifetime’s work. In all of its most iconic collections, the brand is constantly innovating its designs to achieve advanced levels of sophistication and precision. This is particularly true for the famous Constellation Gents‘ collection, which is now welcoming its 5th exciting generation of models. The diverse selection includes 26 new models – in yellow and Sedna gold or stainless steel.
Although the Omega Constellation line was first launched in 1952, it was the models released in 1982 that first introduced the familiar look that we recognise today. Most notably, the features of those 1982 models included the four „claws“ on the side of the case, the barrel-shaped case with its half-moon facets at the top and bottom, the mono-link bracelet and also the perfectly circular dial and indexes on the bezel.

Following a similar makeover for its Constellation ladies‘ models in 2018, all of the gents‘ models have been given significant updates. These include polished and bevelled edges along the case, claws and bracelet and slimmer bezels with redesigned Roman numerals. A conical crown adds a little extra touch of sophistication – in perfect harmony with the rest of course. All cases come with a water-resistance of 5 bar.

On the dial, also a lot has changed and the new collection offers a wide range of dial colours and patterns. Hands and hour-markers have been re-designed; they have taken inspiration from the triangular facets of the Freedom Tower in New York. Some of the models also come with diamond hour-markers.
Each dial also features a trapezoidal date window below the golden star.

And of course, all of the models in the Constellation Gents‘ collection have been upgraded to Master Chronometer status. As a result, these watches have the highest certification for precision, performance and magnetic resistance. And of course, a contemporary calibre.
The Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800/8801 can be observed through the sapphire crystal case back. This automatic movement provides a power reserve of 55 hours and withstands magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss.

The watches come with a stainless steel or leather bracelet, depending on the version.

Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II Limited Edition

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Blue is the new black – at least if you ask watch manufacturer Hublot. And the new Limited Edition of the Big Bang Sang Bleu is also a true artistic sculpture on the wrist. The watch reinforces Hublot’s Big Bang Integral collection. The overall design and functionality of the Sang Bleu II are identical to previous models of this collection, but the colour scheme is a different one.
The introduction of the iconic, award-winning Big Bang design in 2005 paved the way for further successful collections such as the Classic Fusion or the Spirit of Big Bang with complications ranging from the most classic to the most complicated of watchmaking. This is one of the reasons why it continues to shape Hublot’s extraordinary DNA with constant growth.

From an ancient practice to a worldwide cultural phenomenon, tattooing has become an art form in its own right thanks to the work of visionary artists such as Maxime Plescia-Büchi, founder of Sang Bleu. And the Big Bang Sang Bleu II is the expression of Plescia-Büchi’s craft of geometry and dimensionality, implemented in the form of a timepiece. A watch, a sculpture, a work of art that tells the time – a fusion of different concepts to create a unique, timeless watch, brought to life by Hublot’s expertise in materials.

As already mentioned, the new Hublot Limited Edition is entirely blue – blue like the ink of the Tattoo Studio, which name it bears. Both, dials and bracelets come in this colour, emphasising the design of geometric lines that run across the hands, bezel and case. The bezel is not round but hexagonal and is fitted with the classic six H-shaped screws. And the alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces further emphasise the geometry of this Big Bang. The case of the Sang Bleu II is water-resistant up to 10 atm.
The skeletonized dial consists of different layers which together create a complex 3D effect. Reading the time display is a challenge and may require some practice. A central chronograph seconds hand extends across the entire diameter of the dial; the hours and minutes are indicated by arrow-shaped hands placed on square, dragon-shaped structures. Two hexagonal, rotating subdials are placed beneath several elements; at three o’clock you’ll find the chronograph minutes, at nine o’clock the running seconds. And between four and five o’clock there is also a small date window.

The 45-mm-case of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II houses an Unico in-house calibre. The HUB1240 automatic chronograph movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The movement can be seen through the sapphire case back, including the rotor which was designed by Buchi.

The Big Bang Sang Bleu II is available in two limited versions. Hublot offers 100 pieces of the King Gold version and 200 pieces of the Titanium version. Both models are presented on a blue rubber strap.

Zenith Places Women in the Spotlight in Dubai

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Zenith embarks on the debut edition of LVMH Watch Week with a new kind of innovation in its Defy collection with the Defy Midnight, a uniquely conceived line of women’s watches with a cosmic touch. In addition, the new Elite collection redefines the codes of 21st century watchmaking for the ultimate contemporary elegance.

With its new creations dedicated entirely to women, Zenith is elevating both ends of the spectrum of women’s watches. On one side, the resolutely contemporary Defy Midnight and on the other, the timelessly elegant Elite collection.
For its first purely feminine watch, Zenith sought inspiration from the cosmos. The Defy Midnight is a versatile sporty-chic timepiece with a uniquely celestial dial. As much a jewel as it is a watch, the Defy Midnight is the perfect companion for the women of today: confident, expressive and with a style of their own.

Housed in a 36mm stainless steel case embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds, the dial of the Defy Midnight gives Zenith’s „time to reach your star“ philosophy a literal, visual manifestation. Available in deep blue or grey colors, the dial features a glossy finish with a vertical gradient effect for an unprecedented depth. Portraying the night sky above the endless horizon, where the dark vastness of space gives way to the glimmer of starlight, the dial has an enchanting effect. Zenith’s faceted star emblem is the highest point in the depicted night sky. Completing the celestial landscape are stars of different sizes – some of which glow in the dark.
A third dial made of white mother-pearl with a vertical gradient effect evokes moonlight on a cloudy night. White diamonds are applied on every hour marker, except at 3 o’clock where the date window is placed.

Equipped with the automatic Elite in-house movement, the Defy Midnight provides dependable precision and autonomy of 50 hours. A star-shaped oscillating weight brings a galactic element to the case-back view.

The Defy Midnight features an assortment of bracelets and straps – the integrated stainless steel bracelet as well as a selection of colored satin and leather straps – that can easily be swapped by the wearer, allowing the watch to different looks and situations.

The Watch of the Deep: Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

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This year Rolex introduced an Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller in a yellow Rolesor version, combining Oystersteel and yellow gold. This new watch brings yellow gold to the Sea-Dweller range for the first time.
The Sea-Dweller was designed in collaboration with the pioneers of professional deep-sea diving, who spent extended periods underwater. This ultra-resistant tool watch accompanied the first experimental underwater habitat programmes. It played a vital role in conquering the ocean depths thanks to the Oyster case and the helium escape valve.

A paragon of robustness and reliability, Oyster case of the Sea-Dweller is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 1,220 metres. Its middle is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosions-resistant Steel. The case back is hermetically screwed down and the winding crown, fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case.
Rolesor, the combination of gold and steel on a Rolex watch, has been a signature feature of the brand since 1933. On the new yellow Rolesor version of the Sea-Dweller, the bezel, winding crown and centre links of the bracelet are in gold, while the case and outer links of the bracelet are in steel.

The yellow Sea-Dweller-lettering is echoing the colour of the yellow gold. When the Sea-Dweller was updated in 2017, this lettering was in red, in reference to the original model.
The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date.
The helium escape valve acts as a safety valve. It allows excess pressure built up in the watch case during a dive to escape during a diver’s decompression phase in a hyperbaric chamber, while preserving the waterproofness of the watch.
The light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the profile of the Sea-Dweller’s 43-mm Oyster case, which features a unidirectional rotable bezel with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic. This ceramic is extremely corrosion-resistant and virtually scratchproof and the colours are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip, to comfortably set dive time even when wearing gloves.

The new version of the Sea-Dweller is equipped with calibre 3235, a new-generation movement. This automatic movement offers fundamental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. Like all Rolex watches, the new Sea-Dweller carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wirst.
And it provides a power reserve of up to 70 hours.

Patrimony Self-winding: Minimalist Elegance in a Midnight Blue Gown

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Vacheron Constantin has introduced two new, minimalist women’s watches that combine a timeless elegance, a feminine silhouette and sparkling diamonds. The Patrimony is the ideal watch for women who are looking for an elegant, straightforward and technically demanding timepiece. The perfect form of the Patrimony self-winding is reserved, the appearance is understated, distinguished and aesthetically extremely appealing. Since 2004, the Patrimony line embodied timeless watchmaking, striking a perfect balance between classicism and modernity.

The Patrimony self-winding is available in two versions – with diameters of 36 and 36.5 mm. The pink gold cases are water-resistant up to 3 bar.
This watch is either available in a simple pink gold version or with diamonds. In the latter, the beauty of 68 round-cut diamonds carefully aligned on the bezel; and the ultimate touch of a diamond-set crown with a diamond. A spark that gives even greater intensity to the midnight to the midnight blue shimmer of the sunburst satin-finish dial.
The surface of the dial is subtly curved and punctuated by a pearl minute-track carved into the material. Sleek hour-markers, a date window at 6 o’clock, slender pink gold hours and minutes hands complemented by a slim seconds hand, delicately curved to follow the dainty outline of the dial.

Inside the Patrimony self-winding works the calibre 2450 Q6/2. This automatic movement provides a power reserve of at least 40 hours and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz. The movement and its beautifully openworked oscillating weight can be viewed through the sapphire crystal back.
Precision and reliability is what first comes to mind when we think of the movements of Vacheron Constantin. And we, like a lot of watch enthusiasts, are especially excited, when manufacturers incorporate their powerful automatic calibres (and the mechanical ones, too!) into women’s watches. The main problem is, of course, that these movements are usually bigger and heavier than quartz movements; only with the latter, the smallest women’s watches can be realized.

The minimalism, which the Patrimony self-winding radiates, is paired with a dark blue alligator leather strap, which enhances the slim design additionally.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

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The new Gravity Equal Force is the newest timepiece from Armin Strom. This watch is not only demonstrating continuous innovation, one of the core principles of the manufacture, but also takes the traditional mainspring barrel and turns it on its head. The Gravity Equal Force also marks the launch of the new System 78 Collection, highlighting innovative watchmaking at a competitive price.

The inspiration behind Gravity Equal Force was a desire to transmit equal force to the balance, thereby increasing the consistency of rate. Building upon the classic stop-works mechanism, Armin Strom developed an ingenious stop-works declutch system that operates inside the mainspring barrell to limit the torque delivered to the balance, providing a smooth delivery. This represents the first time a stop-works declutch mechanism has been added to an automatic winding movement.
Not content with one innovation, Armin Strom found insight in a pocket watch in need of repair, which contained a motor barrel design showing clear advantages over the standard going barrel. So the watchmakers designed a barrel operating in the reverse of a traditional mainspring barrel driving the gong train via the barrel arbor and winding the barrel housing.
All of this is built into the new ASB19 calibre which works at a frequency of 3 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 72 hours.

The new Gravity Equal Force also differs from previous models with a new off-center dial and slimmer case with a smaller diameter. The highlight of the watch is now the triplet of bridges. Moving to an off-center dial, the Gravity Equal Force is more legible to maximize the user experience.
The 41-mm-case is a first for Armin Strom. It is shaping a new aesthetic that showcases the reduction to the essential while maintaining the essence of the manufacture’s DNA.

Armin Strom equips the Gravity Equal Force with a black alligator leather strap.

RJ: Spider-Man is back

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It’s been two years since RJ has introduced its last Spider-Man watch. That’s why we were pretty euphoric when we heard about the latest collaboration with Marvel – all the more when it became clear that not just one, but two Spider-Man models came out of this association: The ARRAW Spider-Man and the ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon.

The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is an openworked watch that features many references to the comic book hero on its dial. Below that works the skeleton movement, which comes in the form of a spider’s web. The small second, which lies between 8 and 9 o’clock, sits in it in the form of a bright red spider.
The automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of at least 48 hours. RJ built all of this in a robust black carbon case that comes with a water-resistance of 10 atm.
The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is a limited edition of 100 pieces.

The ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon is the first complication that RJ developed and manufactured in-house. The tourbillon construction is entirely co-axial, with a peripheral display of the hours and minutes. This central tourbillon was developed by RJ not only because the manufacturer wanted an in-home complication, but primarily to increase the power reserve to 150 hours (or 6 days).
In order to maintain perfect symmetry, the RJ decided to design the case without a crown. The winding process is done by lifting a hoop found on the case of the back, then turning it like a key. To set the time, a concealed push button at 6 o’clock must be pressed. In order to provide maximum insight into the openworked movement, RJ opted for a sapphire crystal case back.
The case has a diameter of 45 mm, is water-resistant up to 10 atm and is made of black carbon or, in a second version, a red glass fibre composite and carbon. And it is equipped with RJ bumpers in rubber.
The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is limited to 99 pieces.

RJ offers only 10 models of every version of the ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon.

Corum and the Beauty of Mechanics

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In 2013, Corum welcomed a new line to the Admiral family – the Admiral AC-One. Keeping in mind the key design codes of the Admiral collection, the lines of the iconic dodecagonal-shaped case was reworked to become more rounded, and angles less prominent. And titanium became the material of choice for this contemporary reinterpretation. Designed as a robust timepiece to complement luxury offshore boating, the Admiral AC-One 45 is even sportier, bolder and pushes the boundaries of creativity a step further.

The AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic introduces a skeletonized dial. The movement is the calibre CO 297, a new calibre, developed by Corum in-house specifically for this model. The bridges visible on the dial side were designed to be in harmony with the dodecagonal-shaped case, as well as the silhouettes of the nautical parents. A sub-dial displaying small seconds is at the 9 o’clock position, while the power reserve indicator sits at 3 o’clock.
Like the AC-One 45 Squelette, which was introduced in 2014, the architecture of the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic juxtaposes this otherwise rather bulky timepiece with a touch of lightness. But unlike the Squelette which features a completely skeletonized double-date disk, the Openwork Automatic boasts bolder lines and therefore sports a more robust and athletic look.

Corum offers the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic in two different versions. The first, with a titanium case which adds lightness to the overall design and adds a futuristic vibe. The second version pairs contrasting rose gold with black PVD-coated titanium for a more sporty feel.

And for those of you who are looking for a more complicated mechanism, Corum has prepared the AC-One Openwork Tourbillon. It features a tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position (in addition to all the details mentioned above). Technically sophisticated and beautiful to look at.

All watches feature redesigned straps made from rubber on the surface and synthetic textile on the bottom.

Louis Erard und Alain Silberstein present two Limited Editions

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Louis Erard watches are introducing a reinterpretation of the brand’s regulator watch in collaboration with the architect and watchmaker Alain Silberstein, available in two editions. This is a double first: in its 90 years of existence, Louis Erard has never given a carte blanche to a designer, while Alain Silberstein had never before designed a regulator watch.

While on the surface it may appear fun and light, this limited edition watch has hidden depth. It reflects the strategy of the Louis Erard brand, more focused than ever on its vocation as an independent watchmaker dedicated to excellence in the making of accessible watches.

The watch’s design starts with the mechanics: the brand’s regulator, an exclusive calibre made for Louis Erard. This complication goes back through the history of watchmaking. Traditionally, the principle of the regulator is to separate the indications of the hours, minutes and seconds in order to improve chronometric precision. This is a pillar of Louis Erard’s timepieces, with the regulator at the heart of its collections since the brand’s relaunch in 2003. The regulator remains more than ever at the centre of the brand’s strategy.
For Alain Silberstein, the regulator is also a technical, aesthetic and philosophical essential. For him, the regulator is the centrepiece, a model for the breaking down of time focused on the central minute hand. It is reduced to the most basic form of an indicator: an arrow. It is large and yellow on the black version, and deep blue on the white version. This minute hand points to simple lines. The rest of the dial features the same geometric simplicity: The hour hand is a large red triangle, while the seconds are indicated by a serpentine hand. The colours follow a similar logic, reduced to the basic spectrum of blue, red and yellow, inspired by the Bauhaus movement. This way, the watches pay tribute to the birthplace of modern design.

All models are powered by an automatic calibre, the ETA Peseux 7001, which is equipped with the Louis Erard RE9 complication. It operates at a frequency of 21,900 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours.

Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein have designed the cases to match the dials. They are made either of stainless steel or black PVD coated stainless steel and water resistant up to 5 atm. Depending on the colour, the watches are equipped with a black or brown calfskin strap.
As mentioned, the watches are limited editions with 178 watches each.