The Secret Lies in the Twist of the Lines

Today, we take a look at Cartier’s latest watch creations. Before the Maison became an important watchmaker in the 20th century by introducing the first Santos-Dumont in 1904, Cartier had already made a name for itself as a master jeweller. And the Maison still combines watchmaking with the ambition to make its watches look like a piece of jewellery – especially the women’s watches.
The new Maillon de Cartier stands for the unmistakable style of the manufacturer. The watch focuses on the bracelet and its individual links. Cartier has always used links as a central design element for rings, necklaces and bracelets. Traditional standards are interpreted in a modern way, resulting in an exceptional outcome.

With the Maillon de Cartier the Maison introduces a future classic among its collections. For the link bracelet, Cartier has aranged the elements in a way that they lie diagonallyone behind the other. This design gives the feminine watch its special elegance; the interplay of curves and bevels leads to the twisted links.
The dial of the Maillon the Cartier blends harmoniously into the twisted perspective of the braclet. Its elements and the case melt into a single, refined and graphic sweep.

Rectangular elements, a hexagonal dial and bevelled edges complement each other to create a rhythmic design and an overall architectural approach. The case measures 16 x 17mm with a height of only 6.8 mm and is polished to a high gloss.

The dial of the watches is unmistakably Cartier: silver-plated dials, blued steel sword hands and stylised Roman numerals capture the eye as soon as it can tear itself away from the unique bracelet.

The Maillon de Cartier collection consists of a gold base model that features a blue cobochon on the crown and five watches with diamonds. The Maillon de Cartier in red and white gold have 24 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel and a red gold Maillon comes with 400 diamonds – not only on the bezel but also on the bracelet. Cartier also offers a white gold version with diamonds all over, including the dial, which amounts to a number of 486 diamonds in total.
All watches are powered by a quartz movement.

The Maillon de Cartier collection also includes two limited editions: A yellow gold watch set with diamonds and a black dial (limited to 50 pieces), and a Maillon whose case, bracelet and dial are set with diamonds and tsavorites. This is a limited edition of only 20 pieces.

Audemars Piguet’s New Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique

The new Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique is a statement of creative freedom and free-spirited individuality. This watch has made it its mission, despite the rush and frenzy of today’s world, to offer its wearer an entirely new view of the time available to them. With its single hand, this wristwatch stands against today’s conventions of timekeeping, against the constraints of the tireless quest for precision that characterizes not only our day-to-day lives but also modern industry. Inspired by the aesthetics of 17th-century single-hand timepieces, the new Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique also tells time in a more philsoophical way.
Audemars Piguet introduced its first Philosophique watch in 1982, in the midst of the quartz crisis. The Manufacture responded to this severe shock to the watchmaking industry by producing more innovative mechanics.
The Millenary watches are also a tradition at Audemars Piguet. Since they first appeared in 1995, this line has been a canvas for creativity with its elliptical case, eccentric dials and visible hand-wound movement.

The Millenary Frosted Gold Philosphique has been meticulously hand-finished by Audemars Piguet’s watchmakers. The pink or white gold case presents alternating satin brushing and Frosted Gold finishing, a technique the manufacturer owes to Florentine jewellery designer Carolina Bucci. The diamond-dust it creates is the result from hours of meticulous micro-hammering.

Adding a sublte touch of color, the see-through caseback reveals the oscillating weight, which coloured plates recall the hand-crafted dimpled dial in shades of brown or blue. The single hour hand is polished and sand-blasted.

Adding to the current hand-wound collection, this watch is equipped with a new automatic movement, the calibre 3140. It is endowed with a patented mechanism which ticks the hand around the dial in an elliptical trajectory. The hour wheel directly corresponds with a transparent disc on the dial, on which the single hand is mounted. This enables the hand to follow a clear trajectory despite the elliptical case.

Both Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique versions are equipped with an alligator leather strap.

Vacheron Constantin Has a New Horological Muse

The Égérie is the new horolocial muse of Vacheron Constantin, and it joins the world of Haute Manufacture. In this new collection dedicated to women, Haute Horlogerie meets Haute Couture, seen through the prism of craftsmanship, precision, excellence and beauty.
The sophisticated style of Haute Couture is subtly paired with the asymmetrical aesthetic faithfully perpetuating the Vacheron Constantin heritage. Thus, the new Érégie collection weaves the face of watchmaking femininity; a watch featuring a classic look, draped with a mischievous touch: inspiring, independent and charismatic.
The feminine name of this collection derives from the famous nymph Egeria featured in Roman mythology to the contemporary muses who inspire artists and designers.

A delicate interplay of textures and intertwined shapes, alternating flat and raised areas; a pleated effect reminiscent of fabric; a singular asymmetry borne by a fluid aesthetic: such is the exquisite aesthetic of the Égérie watch.
Égérie is also the modern interpretation of aesthetic codes cherished by Vacheron Constantin, which has been offering off-centre displays since the early 19th century, notably by playing on two intertwined circles. Égérie has made this its signature touch. The date or moon-phase integration is thus part of a subtle diagonal line formed by the logo and the crown daringly placed between 1 and 2 o’clock. Depending on the model, the latter is adorned with a cabochon-cut moonstone or a rose-cut diamond.

A dial featuring a pleaded pattern. A diamond halo resembling slender braiding and accentuating the feminine shape of the case. And above all, sophistication in every detail, expressed through pleasingly harmonious geometry punctuated by gold Arabic numerals, daintily scalloped like lace.

The Érégie self-winding is availbable in rose gold or stainless steel. The 35 mm pebble-shaped case is crowned with a slender bezel overstitched with 58 diamonds. The dial sets the stage for a delicate opaline silver work of art composed of concentric circles, graced with a pleated pattern. The calligraphic numerals evoke fine embroidery, while the leaf-type hours and minutes hands recall fine needles used by nimble fingers.
The Égérie self-winding is powered by the calibre 1088, an in-house automatic movement that provides a power-reserve of 40 hours.

The night star is at the very heart of the Égérie moon phase model, which comes in a 37 mm case in rose gold or steel, which a diamond-set bezel. An offset circle glittering with 36 diamonds displays a dreamlike version of time, with the gold moon appearing in a starry sky revealed behind clouds formed by a delicate mother-of-pearl assembly. The enchanting charm of this model is further enhanced by its opaline silver dial and pleated pattern.
The Égérie moon phase model is available in stainless steel or rose gold; both versions feature a generous diamond setting. Both are also fitted with the calibre 1088L.
But – the Égérie moon phase is also available as diamond-pavé model in white gold. Its white gold case bears 292 diamonds, while the dial deploys its concentric circles amid a shower of 510 diamonds.

Vacheron Constantin supplies all models on either stainless steel or leather straps, depending on the version.

Audemars Piguet and the Code 11.59 Automatic Chronograph

Audemars Piguet has introduced a new watch line called Code 11.59 at the beginning of this year. Once again, the watch manufacturer was faced with the challenge of setting new standards. From the very beginning, the company has been working with the best craftsmen, who perform their profession at the highest level. Nevertheless, Audemars Piguet is constantly trying to penetrate new fields of highest craftsmanship and to advance the technical perfection of its own procedures and production standards.
With 13 models, including four complications, code 11.59 represents one of the most comprehensive launches in the history of Audemars Piguet. Also, for the first time the Manufacture is presenting a collection designed for both men and women.

The selfwinding chronograph’s deep blue or black lacquered dial offers a perfect mirror finish. The pink or white gold case echoes the polished gold curved indexes and singular numeral at 12 o’clock as well as the raised logo and long stick hands. The chronograph counters are circled by gold threads with polished V angles, a difficult finishing on lacquered dials. At the 3 o’clock position you will find the subdial for the hours, at 9 o’clock the one for the minutes. The small second is placed at 6 o’clock and at 4.30 Audemars Piguet has lodged the date window. The latter blends in seamlessly in the background of the dial.
Audemars Piguet has lacquered the inner bezel – depending on the version – in blue or black. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal which was specially designed for this collection. It is complex, double curved and glareproofed and with its arched profile it embodies the watch’s contemporary design. The glass’s internal surface is shaped like a dome, while its external surface is vertically curved from 6 to 12 o’clock. Its shape perfectly integrates the extra-thin bezel and extends from edge to edge. The play of depth, perspective and light creates a unique visual experience.

The new in-house calibre 4401 symbolizes Audemars Piguet’s constant quest for innovation. This calibre is endowed with an instant-jump date indication, integrated column wheel chronograph and flyback function that enables to re-start the chronograph without stopping and resetting it first. It has 70 hours of power reserve, as well as a dedicated pink gold beautifully openworked oscillating weight invisible through the sapphire crystal case back. This calibre also presents reinforced chronometry.
The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour and consists of 367 individual parts.

The Selfwinding Chronograph is housed in a 41-mm-case with a water-resistance of 3 atm and is fitted with a hand-stitched large square scale blue or black alligator strap.

Magical: The New Bovet Virtuoso V

The Bovet Virtuoso V paires jumping hours, retrograde minutes and a double-sided time display with a flamboyant red guilloché dial.

The heart of the Virtuoso V is undoubtedly its dial. It occupies the entire surface of the movement, giving it a completely new identity. While Bovet’s watchmakers ensured that all the information is displayed at the same level, the manufacturers of the dial created an unprecedented guilloche motif. The original stepped arrangement has given way to greater classicism, which enhances the artistic crafts and exemplary finishes of all the components. After decorating the metal base with a guilloché motif, they applied a dozen layers of translucent red lacquer. This creates an impression of depth as well as beautiful reflections that add the the dial’s magic.

In terms of technology, the Virtuoso V integrates two complications that are notoriously difficult to combine: jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The jump of the hour disk must be perfectly synchronized with the jump of the minute hand. This timepiece belongs to the Fleurier Complications Collection and is fitted with the patented Amadeo convertible case, allowing it to be transformed into a reversible wristwatch, a table clock, or a pocket watch, without the need for a single tool. As a result, hours and minutes can be found on both sides of the movement. A power reserve indicator completes the indications by displaying a remarkable autonomy of five days, ensured by the use of a single barrel. finally, to add to the timepiece’s functions, the watchmakers developed a corrector independent of the hour disk that can display a different time zone on each side of the timepiece.

The red or white gold Bovet case has a diamter of 43.5 mm and is water resistant up to 3 atm. Inside, works the calibre 13BM11 AIHSMR. The hand-wound movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides an impressive power reserve of 5 days.

Bovet delivers the Virtuoso V with an alligator leather strap and a red or white gold chain so that the watch can also be used as a pocket watch.

Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art: Lady 8 Flower

Today we look at an extraordinary ladies watch; a timepiece imbued with the spirit of the jeweler’s craft – the new Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower. Minimalist and richly ornate by turns, the Lady 8 and its distinctive undulating silhouette have made their marks as touchstones of femininity, elegance and watchmaking refinement.

The Lady 8 Flower, a fusion of the arts and crafts Jaquet Droz is known to master, is made up of two superimposed circles creating a figure of eight. The eight is an emblematic number for the brand and a symbol of harmony, perfection and infinity. The lower circle features a delicate butterfly, its wings outstretched. Two versions are available: one with the butterfly’s wings painted and engraved in translucent red enamel on a guilloché background; the other, incorporating jewels, features a butterfly set with blue sapphires and portrait against snow-set diamonds. The upper circle reveals a lotus flower under a sapphire crystal dome. Representing serenity and poetry, and sacret to many Asian cultures, the flower has been crafted with the utmost care. Each petal is individually enameled or engraved to give its back a perfect satin finish.
The watch shows only hours and minutes.

As a mysterious bud or fully opened jewel-like bloom, this animation is not simply a pure vision of naturalistic and poetic beauty. By pressing a push-button the lotus flower opens, revealing its diamond heart. For Jaquet Droz, the timepiece also presented a new technical challenge: accommodating the two mechanisms, the watch’s and the automaton’s – within a 35 mm diameter case, while ensuring one never interferes with the other.
The Lady 8 Flower is powered by a mechanical movement which beats with 21,600 v/ph and provides a power reserve of 38 hours.

The case comes with brilliant cut diamonds either in red or white gold and water-resistant up to 38 hours. Jaquet Droz limited both versions; the red gold one to 28 pieces, the white gold Lady 8 Flower to 8 pieces.

Vacheron Constantin Perpetuates Copernicus in a Métiers d’Art

Vacheron Constantin has added a new model to its Métiers d’Art collection, the Copernicus celestial spheres 2460 RT. And not only that, there will be three different versions of this watch.
The Copernicus celestial spheres 2460 RT proves once more the artistic mastery of the Swiss watch manufacturer. With its original display and spectacular decoration, this new collection presented at SIHH 2017, pays tribute to one of humankind’s greatest discoveries: heliocentrism.

Nicolaus Copernicus revolutionized the world in 1543. His hypothesis challenged geocentrism by putting forward the theory of heliocentrism, demonstrating not only that the Earth spins on its axis and has a satellite, the Moon, but above all that it gravitates around the Sun. This new vision of space also had a considerable philosophical impact on the perception of humanity and it overturned all existing beliefs. this revolution was to have profound repercussions on all fields of thought. Vacheron Constantin pays homage to these emblematic discoveries that definitively changed the face of the world with the Copernicus celestial spheres 2460 RT.

Three different dials interpret this theme in three different ways. The decoration is inspired by the graphic depictions of Andreas Cellarius, a 17th century cartographer and author of the most important colorful sky map, the „Harmonia Macrocosmica“.
The dials comprise two distinct parts. The oval centre bears a Sun with a glowing hand-engraved pink gold face, while the outer disc is dedicated to three decorative craft variations. Between the two, a tiny elliptical groove provides space to display orbit performed by the Earth. The latter is represented by a tiny gold disc, slightly domed and measuring barely 6.8 mm diameter, featuring a polar view of the continents based on a Lambert conic map projection.

The first model in this trio gives pride of place to various enamelling techniques. The champlevé Grand Freu enamel Earth reveals the blue of the oceans and the geography of the continents. In the background, a map of the sky on a gold base is enamelled in pastel colours. It is punctuated by fine lines illustrating the orbit of the five planets shown. The outer part of the dial bears the 12 zodiac signs in polychrome enamel.

The second dial, graced with an even more baroque-inspired aesthetic, is hand-engraved. The 12 signs of the zodiac intertwine and overlap on a white gold disc. The engraver has provided a wealth of ramolayé details highlighting volumes in the material. On the Earth orbiting around a flaming golden Sun, the oceans are covered with microscope waves achieved by engraving effects, while the contrasting continents are polished to accentuate the luminosity of the gold.

The third dial is adorned with decorative techniques involving several novel aspects. The zodiac signs are complemented by a 3D-effect star-stubbed sky. The earth is hand-engraved ans picks up this contrast between the fine graining of the ocean waves and the glow of the continents. A hand-painted midnight blue underdial is overlaid with a transparent sapphire crystal engraved on its back. On the front, the constellations are laser-engraved and then highlighted with Super-LumiNova, so the immensity of the night sky is thus fully revealed in the semi-darkness.

All timepieces are driven by a mechanical self-winding Manufacture-made movement, the calibre 2460 RT it was entirely designed, developed and created by Vacheron Constantin.
The time is displayed by two triangular peripheral hands in gold – a cut-out one for the hours and a solid one for the minutes – that glide around the dial rim. The elliptical path of the Earth around the Sun is the key highlight of this watch, exuding a powerful presence and providing continuous information as the days go by. The second complication is the Earth’s elliptical orbit around the Sun. The mechanism is so precise that it only requires a one-day correction only once in 8,000 years.
The calibre works with 28,800 vph and provides a 36-hour power reserve.

The Copernicus celestial spheres 2460 RT features a white gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter and 12.9 mm in height. It comes with a black leather bracelet.

Time For An Update: The Lange 1 Moon Phase of Lange & Söhne

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The Lange 1 Moon Phase by A. Lange & Söhne is around since 2002. The Lange 1 received an upgrade quite recently and now it’s the turn of the Lange 1 Moon Phase. The watch now comes with a new calibre and the moon phase has also changed: it now contains a day/night indicator as well.

The arrangement of the moon phase display is based on a new, particularly realistic concept. A separate solid-gold moon pursues its orbit in the foreground. Behind it, a celestial dis – also made of solid gold – performs one revolution every 24 hours. On the disc, the different times of day are represented by varying blue hues caused by interference effects. During the day, it shows a bright sky without stars, while at night it depicts a dark sky with prominently contrasting laser-cut stars.
The lunar cycle endures 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds on average. The Lange 1 Moon Phase displays it so accurately that it takes 122.6 years for the display to deviate from the true synodic period by just one day.

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The asymmetric solid-silver dial sets a harmonious stage for the luminous time and power-reserve indications complemented with an outsize date, the moon-phase display, and the day/night indicator. Hours and minutes are displayed on a big subdial at 9 o’clock, the power-reserve indicator lies below the date at 3 o’clock. And A. Lange & Söhne incorporated the small seconds in the moon-phase display.

The now 20th (!) Lange calibre with a moon-phase display is based on the Lange 1 movement introduced two years ago, and it has the same performance attributes. This includes the maximum power reserve of 72 hours and the precisely jumping outsize date display. It beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour.
The 70 parts for the moon-phase display were so integrated in the L121.3 manufacture calibre that it is only marginally larger than the calibre L121.1 inside the Lange 1.

The Lange 1 Moon Phase is available in white gold with a black dial (39.500€), in pink gold with an argenté dial (35.900€) and in platinum with a rhodié dial (52.000€).
Also, A. Lange & Söhne can now be found on Instagram. Apart from news and new models the manufacturer wants to offer exclusive looks behind the scenes.

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The 22nd Model for the 20th Anniversary: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

In 2016, Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar, which only needs to be corrected once a year, is celebrating its 20th anniversary. To commemorate this occasion, the manufacture has launched a new model of this complication. This watch (Ref. 5396) has been subtly reworked and refined and logically complements the 21 previous models that have been presented since 1996.

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The new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is available in white gold with a dark gray sunburst dial and in rose gold with a silvery white opaline dial. Both models look familiar yet at the same time appear to be totally new. Familiar because of the style elements that dominate the series for years, and new because these elements have never before been combined this way.
The round of the case merges gracefully with the strap lugs, and a smoothly polished bezel frames the dial. The sapphire-crystal glass is prominently cambered, endowing the watch with volume and a modern look. You can easily spot the Calatrava personality in this one, which is somewhat of the archetype of all classic round watches.

The dial features an in-line double aperture in the upper half that displays the day of the week on the left and the month on the right. The date display is positioned in a large aperture at 6 o’clock. Together with the double aperture, it frames the 24-hour subsidiary dial with the moon-phase display in the lower half of the dial to assure a visually balanced configuration.
This layout is reminiscent of Patek Philippe perpetual calendars from the 1940s and 50s. The main difference lies in the position of the analog date scale, which is occupied by the 24-hour dial, which doubles as a day/night indication in the Ref. 5396.
The time is indicated in classic fashion: A peripheral circle of small gold minute markers frames the Breguet numerals. They harmonize great with the Dauphine-style hour and minute hands as well as with the long, slender sweep seconds hand.

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The heart of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396 is a self-winding mechanical movement that correctly displays the calendar information for an entire year. Much of the finesse of the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H is visible through the sapphire-crystal case back.

And: good news for everyone who fell in love with this gorgeous timepiece: This anniversary edition is not a limited one.