Archiv für den Monat: Februar 2016

Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition from Carl F. Bucherer

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csm_tourbillon_brown_detail01_c0a2d8b70fAlmost one hundred years – since 1919 – Swiss watch manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer is around and he was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the watch strap. The brand was repositioned in 2001 and in the same year the company launched the now famous Patravi watch collection.
Since its development in the late 1700s the tourbillon is regarded as one of the great challenges and as the supreme discipline in the art of watchmaking in view of its complexity and mechanical sophistication. The function of the tourbillon is to csm_tourbillon_brown_detail02_3e4174279fcompensate for the errors in accuracy of a mechanical watch that are caused by the effects of gravity. Therefore the escapement and balance wheel are mounted in a rotating cage which revolves once a minute.

Carl F. Bucherer launches the Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition 2015 in an exclusive edition of 188 pieces. The shiny velvet brown of the dial which was specially developed for the watch manufacturer. The indices and hands are in red gold, like the case.
The dial is not only functional but easy to read as well. The watch features two subdials – the one at 9 o’clock shows the power reserve, the one on 12 o’clock the 24-hour display. But the tourbillon on 6 o’clock dominates the dial. The design is generous and stylish and it provides an unimpeded view of the complication.
The elegant shaped rose gold case measures 41,8 mm in diameter and 12,58 mm in csm_tourbillon_brown_detail03_31284f0f87height and should be suitable for almost every wrist without appearing oversized. The watch features a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating over the dial. The watch is water-resistant to 30 metres.

The Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition is powered by the manual winding calibre CFB T1001. It provides a power reserve of 70 hours.
In this sophisticated timepiece, Carl F. Bucherer unites the classic elegance of the Manero line with the supreme achievement represented by the tourbillon.
The watch features a brown leather bracelet.

Salthora Meta: The new „jumping hour“ from Meistersinger

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Meistersinger specializes in manufacturing watches that feature one single hand – and only show what is really important. Mostly, a single, neele-thin hour hand rotates around the dial on which you can accurately tell the time to the nearest five minutes. However, the Salthora, which was first presented in 2014, features a minute hand instead – the hour is shown in a circular window positioned at 12 o’clock. As soon as the hand reaches the middle of the window every sixty minutes, the number denoting the next hour appears in the window like a flash.

salthora-meta_02The „jumping hour“ principle was first used in wristwatches during the 1920s. However, its perfection is quite a technical challange. The Salthora by Meistersinger should display the „jump“ exactly on the hour, show the hour in the window without wobbling or shaking, but jump to the middle of the window with immediate precision. The watch should also provide the power required for the jump without impairing the smoothness of the movement.

SAM909For all these reasons, Meistersinger had a module designed for the tried-and-tested ETA-2824-2 ans Sellita SW 200-1 Swiss movement, which ensures the punctual, exact jump using painstakingly balanced mechanics. The tension required for the actuating lever of the hour disk is built up by a snail attached to the minute whieel in the course of 60 minutes. Hence, power is not withdrawn suddenly from the mainspring barrel, but continually, which only influences the workings to a minimal degree.

The first Salthora is visually dedicated to the charm of watchmaking finesse. With the new Salthora Meta, however, Meistersinger has adopted a new style, paying tribute to the clear, powerful character of this SAM907watch concept.
The Salthora Meta is 43 millimeters in diameter and has a striking, cylindrical stainless steel case. It is waterproof up to 5 atm and fitted with a six-screwed exhibition back. The digits of the minutes and of the hour display are depicted in a sans serif Helvetica typeface. The watch will be available in four versions. The models featuring a white or ivory-covered dial will be fitted with an hour disk in exactly the same colour. Here, the complication is not immediately obvious. However, the hour disk in the blue version is white, just like its hand. The black Meta with the hour digits and hand in signal red has an almost dramatic impact.