Schlagwort-Archive: Men’s Watch

The Updated Omega Constellation Gents‘ Collection

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For the Swiss watchmaker Omega, the pursuit of excellence is a lifetime’s work. In all of its most iconic collections, the brand is constantly innovating its designs to achieve advanced levels of sophistication and precision. This is particularly true for the famous Constellation Gents‘ collection, which is now welcoming its 5th exciting generation of models. The diverse selection includes 26 new models – in yellow and Sedna gold or stainless steel.
Although the Omega Constellation line was first launched in 1952, it was the models released in 1982 that first introduced the familiar look that we recognise today. Most notably, the features of those 1982 models included the four „claws“ on the side of the case, the barrel-shaped case with its half-moon facets at the top and bottom, the mono-link bracelet and also the perfectly circular dial and indexes on the bezel.

Following a similar makeover for its Constellation ladies‘ models in 2018, all of the gents‘ models have been given significant updates. These include polished and bevelled edges along the case, claws and bracelet and slimmer bezels with redesigned Roman numerals. A conical crown adds a little extra touch of sophistication – in perfect harmony with the rest of course. All cases come with a water-resistance of 5 bar.

On the dial, also a lot has changed and the new collection offers a wide range of dial colours and patterns. Hands and hour-markers have been re-designed; they have taken inspiration from the triangular facets of the Freedom Tower in New York. Some of the models also come with diamond hour-markers.
Each dial also features a trapezoidal date window below the golden star.

And of course, all of the models in the Constellation Gents‘ collection have been upgraded to Master Chronometer status. As a result, these watches have the highest certification for precision, performance and magnetic resistance. And of course, a contemporary calibre.
The Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800/8801 can be observed through the sapphire crystal case back. This automatic movement provides a power reserve of 55 hours and withstands magnetic fields up to 15,000 Gauss.

The watches come with a stainless steel or leather bracelet, depending on the version.

Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II Limited Edition

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Blue is the new black – at least if you ask watch manufacturer Hublot. And the new Limited Edition of the Big Bang Sang Bleu is also a true artistic sculpture on the wrist. The watch reinforces Hublot’s Big Bang Integral collection. The overall design and functionality of the Sang Bleu II are identical to previous models of this collection, but the colour scheme is a different one.
The introduction of the iconic, award-winning Big Bang design in 2005 paved the way for further successful collections such as the Classic Fusion or the Spirit of Big Bang with complications ranging from the most classic to the most complicated of watchmaking. This is one of the reasons why it continues to shape Hublot’s extraordinary DNA with constant growth.

From an ancient practice to a worldwide cultural phenomenon, tattooing has become an art form in its own right thanks to the work of visionary artists such as Maxime Plescia-Büchi, founder of Sang Bleu. And the Big Bang Sang Bleu II is the expression of Plescia-Büchi’s craft of geometry and dimensionality, implemented in the form of a timepiece. A watch, a sculpture, a work of art that tells the time – a fusion of different concepts to create a unique, timeless watch, brought to life by Hublot’s expertise in materials.

As already mentioned, the new Hublot Limited Edition is entirely blue – blue like the ink of the Tattoo Studio, which name it bears. Both, dials and bracelets come in this colour, emphasising the design of geometric lines that run across the hands, bezel and case. The bezel is not round but hexagonal and is fitted with the classic six H-shaped screws. And the alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces further emphasise the geometry of this Big Bang. The case of the Sang Bleu II is water-resistant up to 10 atm.
The skeletonized dial consists of different layers which together create a complex 3D effect. Reading the time display is a challenge and may require some practice. A central chronograph seconds hand extends across the entire diameter of the dial; the hours and minutes are indicated by arrow-shaped hands placed on square, dragon-shaped structures. Two hexagonal, rotating subdials are placed beneath several elements; at three o’clock you’ll find the chronograph minutes, at nine o’clock the running seconds. And between four and five o’clock there is also a small date window.

The 45-mm-case of the Big Bang Sang Bleu II houses an Unico in-house calibre. The HUB1240 automatic chronograph movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 72 hours. The movement can be seen through the sapphire case back, including the rotor which was designed by Buchi.

The Big Bang Sang Bleu II is available in two limited versions. Hublot offers 100 pieces of the King Gold version and 200 pieces of the Titanium version. Both models are presented on a blue rubber strap.

Masculine and Elegant: The Hindenberg Air Tracer

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Hindenberg has accumulated an extensive collection and the watches of this manufacturer are usually offered in a whole variety of different versions. Among the most popular models in the current collection is the Hindenberg Air Tracer. It is one of the more classic models. Nevertheless, the watch presents itself intentionally masculine, so let’s take a closer look at it.

The dial of the Hindenberg Air Tracer features a very classic design. The subdial at three o’clock shows the month, the one at nine o’clock shows the day of the week. The current date is displayed in a very large window at six o’clock. The sub-dials, hands and indexes are in every version color-coordinated with the PVD-coating of the case. In order to ensure the best readability in all lightening conditions, Hindenberg has equipped the hour and minute as well as the tip of the seconds hand and the indexes with a generous amount of luminous paint. That the design of the hands, indexes and all the other markers is beautifully restrained also helps with legibility. And let’s don’t forget the inner tachymeter bezel which runs around the outer edge of the dial. All this is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
The dial of of the Hindenberg Air Tracer is well-balanced and wonderfully harmonious. Unfortunately, the date disc are not matched to the respective dial colors, so that they stand out on the darker models. This may not be ideal, but we have to say that Hindenberg made the most of it by counter-balancing it by the use of white lume.

With a diameter of 41 mm and a weight of hefty 182 g, this watch likes to remind its wearer of its presence on the wrist. The cases with their elegantly integrated lugs are water-resistant to 5 atm.
All Air Tracer watches are powered by an automatic movement, the calibre H-16.410.

Hindenberg offers six different versions of the Air Tracer. Two stainless steel models, one with a black, one with a white dial. One model with a black dial comes with a golden PVD-coating, the watch with the rosé PVD-coating is fitted with a bright dial.
All models are equipped with a stainless steel bracelet in which polished and matt surfaces interchange.

The Watch of the Deep: Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

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This year Rolex introduced an Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller in a yellow Rolesor version, combining Oystersteel and yellow gold. This new watch brings yellow gold to the Sea-Dweller range for the first time.
The Sea-Dweller was designed in collaboration with the pioneers of professional deep-sea diving, who spent extended periods underwater. This ultra-resistant tool watch accompanied the first experimental underwater habitat programmes. It played a vital role in conquering the ocean depths thanks to the Oyster case and the helium escape valve.

A paragon of robustness and reliability, Oyster case of the Sea-Dweller is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 1,220 metres. Its middle is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosions-resistant Steel. The case back is hermetically screwed down and the winding crown, fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case.
Rolesor, the combination of gold and steel on a Rolex watch, has been a signature feature of the brand since 1933. On the new yellow Rolesor version of the Sea-Dweller, the bezel, winding crown and centre links of the bracelet are in gold, while the case and outer links of the bracelet are in steel.

The yellow Sea-Dweller-lettering is echoing the colour of the yellow gold. When the Sea-Dweller was updated in 2017, this lettering was in red, in reference to the original model.
The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date.
The helium escape valve acts as a safety valve. It allows excess pressure built up in the watch case during a dive to escape during a diver’s decompression phase in a hyperbaric chamber, while preserving the waterproofness of the watch.
The light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the profile of the Sea-Dweller’s 43-mm Oyster case, which features a unidirectional rotable bezel with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic. This ceramic is extremely corrosion-resistant and virtually scratchproof and the colours are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip, to comfortably set dive time even when wearing gloves.

The new version of the Sea-Dweller is equipped with calibre 3235, a new-generation movement. This automatic movement offers fundamental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. Like all Rolex watches, the new Sea-Dweller carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wirst.
And it provides a power reserve of up to 70 hours.

The Moon and Stars at H. Moser & Cie.

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The latest creation H. Moser & Cie. introduced embodies technical complexity; it is elegant, poetic and unconditionally understated, more than worthy of the manufacture’s watchmaking tradition.
With the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine, H. Moser & Cie. lets you voyage deep into the Milky Way, bringing not just the moon to your wrist. Paying tribute to the lunar body, the interpretation of the moon phase it provides is minimalist yet highly poetic.

At six o’clock, a silvery moon waxes within a beautifully proportioned window. This satellite takes on a resolutely modern and reduced appearance. In this ode to purity, H. Moser & Cie. has opted for a Concept dial, stripped of indices and logo, to allow the moon complete freedom of expression. And, because the brand never does anything half-heartedly, it gives the wearer not only the moon but also the stars. To enhance the beauty of the moon, the watch is equipped with an aventurine dial, subtly twinkling with brilliant inclusions to spectacularly mirror the constellations of the night sky.

Let’s look at the movement: The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine is one of the most precise moon phases available, with just one day’s deviation every 1027 years. It is powered by the HMC 801 hand-wound Manufacture calibre. It provides a power reserve of at least seven days, with an indicator on the movement side.
The moon phase display system is an extremely precise display that can be set to within a minute. It can be easily adjusted using the push-button located on the case flank, aided by the small central arrow-shaped seconds hand, which is a 24-hour indicator.

The Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept Aventurine is available in red gold or steel. Both materials magnify the beauty of the Aventurine dial. The cases have a diameter of 42 mm.
An alligator leather strap completes the piece; black for the red gold model, midnight blue for the steel version. Each model is released in a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

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The new Gravity Equal Force is the newest timepiece from Armin Strom. This watch is not only demonstrating continuous innovation, one of the core principles of the manufacture, but also takes the traditional mainspring barrel and turns it on its head. The Gravity Equal Force also marks the launch of the new System 78 Collection, highlighting innovative watchmaking at a competitive price.

The inspiration behind Gravity Equal Force was a desire to transmit equal force to the balance, thereby increasing the consistency of rate. Building upon the classic stop-works mechanism, Armin Strom developed an ingenious stop-works declutch system that operates inside the mainspring barrell to limit the torque delivered to the balance, providing a smooth delivery. This represents the first time a stop-works declutch mechanism has been added to an automatic winding movement.
Not content with one innovation, Armin Strom found insight in a pocket watch in need of repair, which contained a motor barrel design showing clear advantages over the standard going barrel. So the watchmakers designed a barrel operating in the reverse of a traditional mainspring barrel driving the gong train via the barrel arbor and winding the barrel housing.
All of this is built into the new ASB19 calibre which works at a frequency of 3 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 72 hours.

The new Gravity Equal Force also differs from previous models with a new off-center dial and slimmer case with a smaller diameter. The highlight of the watch is now the triplet of bridges. Moving to an off-center dial, the Gravity Equal Force is more legible to maximize the user experience.
The 41-mm-case is a first for Armin Strom. It is shaping a new aesthetic that showcases the reduction to the essential while maintaining the essence of the manufacture’s DNA.

Armin Strom equips the Gravity Equal Force with a black alligator leather strap.

SeaQ Revives Tradition of Diver’s Watches Made in Glashütte

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Timepieces from Glashütte have long been valued around the world for their high-quality mechanics, elaborate finishes and timeless elegance. Since the 19th century, precise timekeepers from Glashütte have also been used as reliable instruments for navigation and for determining one’s position on land, at sea and in the air.
Based on its rich fund of experience and its historic heritage, Glashütte Original now presents a fifth collection after historic marine chronometers, observation watches, pilot and diver’s watches: the „Spezialist“. It is aimed at the fearless man who actively creates his own life. The premiere model in this new collection is the diver’s watch SeaQ, which unites history and modernity in exemplary fashion. The „Spezimatic Type RP TS 200“ developed specifically for sports divers, served as an ideal example and inspiration for the new diver’s watch.

The SeaQ is available in two versions: as the SeaQ in both a limited and an unlimited version, and as the SeaQ Panorama Date with black or blue dial.
Fifty years ago, high quality and complex functionality were already key features of Glashütte-made watches. With its limited edition SeaQ 1969, the manufactory takes up this tradition, citing the historic inscription on the black dial and the number of jewels. „Shockproof“ refers to the construction of the diver’s watch, renowned even then for its particularly stable design.
The green hands and the „Old Radium“ shade of beige on the Arabic numerals and indexes also derive from the historic predecessors. The engravings on the base plate offer decorative enhancement in the form of the trident maritime symbol, the Glashütte Original Double-G and 20 waves, which symbolize the 20 bar water resistance.

The black dial of the unlimited version of the SeaQ presents Arabic numerals, indexes and hands accentuated with the historic „Old Radium“ hue. This version also features an engraved base plate.

The SeaQ Panorama Date features the characteristic big date of Glashütte Original, which is harmoniously positioned at 4 o’clock. The dial – optionally either black or blue with a sunray finish – presents the hands, applied Arabic numerals and indexes in green or white, respectively.

Its water resistance up to 20 bar (approx. 20 metres) makes the SeaQ well equipped for changes in pressure underwater, even at greater depths. The second model, the SeaQ Panorama Date, is even water resistant up to 30 bar and therefore perfectly suitable even for professional divers. This essential water resistance of both models is enhanced by numerous details, such as the screw-down crown, the secured base plate on the SeaQ or the screwed sapphire crystal case back on the SeaQ Panorama Date.

As genuine diver’s watches, all versions feature a unidirectional, counter-clockwise rotating bezel with perceptible click, enabling certain determination of the dive time. The SeaQ convinces with a clear minute-detent and the Super-LumiNova coated triangle marking the dive start time. The ceramic inlay makes the bezel surface exceptionally scratch-resistant.
The SeaQ 1969 and the SeaQ are both powered by the manufactory’s automatic movement Calibre 39-11, which features a power resistance of 40 hours, a stop-second mechanism and a date display at 3 o’clock. Glashütte Original has built it into a stainless steel case, 39.5 mm in diameter.

For the SeaQ Panorama Date, the Glashütte watchmakers have successfully adapted the Calibre 36 to meet the challenges of timekeeping underwater. In the 36-13 version, it beats precise and stable, anchored shock-resistant in a 43.2 mm case and with a remarkable power reserve of 100 hours.

The SeaQ 1969 is available in a limited edition of 69 pieces. It comes with two alternative straps: a rubber one and one made from nylon mesh. The SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date is additionally offered with a stainless steel strap.

Corum and the Beauty of Mechanics

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In 2013, Corum welcomed a new line to the Admiral family – the Admiral AC-One. Keeping in mind the key design codes of the Admiral collection, the lines of the iconic dodecagonal-shaped case was reworked to become more rounded, and angles less prominent. And titanium became the material of choice for this contemporary reinterpretation. Designed as a robust timepiece to complement luxury offshore boating, the Admiral AC-One 45 is even sportier, bolder and pushes the boundaries of creativity a step further.

The AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic introduces a skeletonized dial. The movement is the calibre CO 297, a new calibre, developed by Corum in-house specifically for this model. The bridges visible on the dial side were designed to be in harmony with the dodecagonal-shaped case, as well as the silhouettes of the nautical parents. A sub-dial displaying small seconds is at the 9 o’clock position, while the power reserve indicator sits at 3 o’clock.
Like the AC-One 45 Squelette, which was introduced in 2014, the architecture of the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic juxtaposes this otherwise rather bulky timepiece with a touch of lightness. But unlike the Squelette which features a completely skeletonized double-date disk, the Openwork Automatic boasts bolder lines and therefore sports a more robust and athletic look.

Corum offers the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic in two different versions. The first, with a titanium case which adds lightness to the overall design and adds a futuristic vibe. The second version pairs contrasting rose gold with black PVD-coated titanium for a more sporty feel.

And for those of you who are looking for a more complicated mechanism, Corum has prepared the AC-One Openwork Tourbillon. It features a tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position (in addition to all the details mentioned above). Technically sophisticated and beautiful to look at.

All watches feature redesigned straps made from rubber on the surface and synthetic textile on the bottom.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 Flow

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In the post-war years of the late 1940s and 1950s, aerodynamic principles were just beginning to take root in the field of automotive design. Curvilinear forms became more prominent, carrying the immediate promise of power and speed. Thereby, designers were guided by their aesthetic sense. The result were automobiles like the Mercedes-Benz W196 and 1948 Buick Streamliner. Other industries followed, notably that of aviation.
And now, MB&F is presenting the Horological Machine N°9 Flow, which is inspired by the dynamic profiles of automotive and aviation mid-century design.

Reminiscent of a jet engine, a highly complex case in alternating polished and satin finishes encloses an equally complex manual winding movement, developed fully in house. Independent twin balance wheels beat at a leisurely 2.5 Hz on each flank of Horological Machine N°9, visible under elongated domes of sapphire crystal. A Third pane of sapphire crystal on the central body reveals the gearbox of the HM9 engine: a planetary differential that averages the output of both balance wheels to provide on stable reading of the time.
Sitting perpendicular to the rest of the HM9 engine is the dial indicating hours and minutes, driven by conical gears that ensure precise engagement even when motion is put through a 90° planar translation. The winding and setting crown is located on the rear of the central body, its deep fluting providing ergonomic grip as well as aesthetic coherence with the overall design.
Two satin-finished air scoops are mounted alongside the pods containing the oscillating balance wheels, evoking the raised vents that allow continuous airflow to high-performance motor engines.

HM9 Flow treads the path first opened by the HM4 Thunderbolt and subsequently by the HM6 Space Pirate, utilising a geometrically complex combination of milled case elements in both sapphire crystal and metal (titanium and red gold). However, HM9 goes beyond its predecessors, redefining what was thought to be possible in case design – illustrated for example by a three-dimensional gasket ensuring water resistance.

Quite naturally, HM9 Flow was therefore declined in two versions, drawing their inspiration from the two main sources: A „Road“ version with a speedometer-style dial; an „Air“ version with an aviator-style dial.
Both versions are limited to 18 pieces each.

Two New Panerai Submersible 42 mm Watches

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Panerai’s collection of professional diving watches is enhanced by two models in stainless steel, with an applied ceramic disc on the rotating bezel which gives these creations a sporty look, powerful and contemporary, suitable for any wrist since the case diameter is just 42 mm.

Strong, functional and tough are the new watches immediately recognisable Panerai as personalities. Both models have an AISI 316L stainless steel case, with the iconic device protecting the winding crown and the unidirectional rotating bezel for displaying the duration of the dive, and they are water-resistant to a depth of 300 metres (30 bar).

The difference between the two new Panerai Submersibles lies in their colour schemes. In the first the dial, the ceramic disc on the rotating bezel and the rubber strap are all black, with luminous white markers clearly legible under all lightning conditions and in complete darkness; the second stylishly combines a blue ceramic disc surrounding the dial and a blue rubber strap with a distinctively textured shark grey dial. In both models the small seconds hand, essential for checking that the watch is running during a dive, is Panerai blue and rotates in the subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock, symmetrical with the date at 3 o’clock.

Two neu Panerai Submersibles in cases 42 mm diameter – an impressive size, consistent with the Panerai DNA, but suitable for any wrist – express all the power and personality of the professional diving watches made by Panerai, which for many years supplied precision to the commandos of the Italian Navy.

The two new Panerai Submersibles are fitted with the OP XXXIV Manufacture calibre, an automatic movement with a power reserve of three days, the basic standard of the House’s movements. The calibre operates with 28,800 vibrations per hour and is responsible for displaying hours, minutes, small seconds and the date.

As well as the rubber strap, these Panerai Submersible watches are supplied with a spare strap of high-tech material, tough and water-resistant.