Mr. Porter, one of the online destinations for men’s style, has announced that it has partnered with Swiss watch manufacturer Zenith and British watch customiser Bamford Watch Department in creating a new watch. Co-creating a project and product of this nature is a first for all three partners in this undertaking. Mr. Bamford and his team worked alongside Zenith in the design of the watch, which was then entirely developed and produced in-house at Zenith’s Manufacture.
Based on the Zenith Heritage 146 model, the Chronomaster El Primero Mr. Porter takes cues from several of the brand’s historical design elements. These subtle touches include the tachymeter inspired by a 1971 El Primero, a red seconds hand, aesthetic reminders of a vintage chronograph case and centric sub-dial rings hark back to the old Zenith recorder tell-tales and motion detecting clock.
Its unique dial comes in the colour “Solar Blue”, also sporting a terrific colour gradient. The Chronomaster El Primero Mr. Porter comes with a central hour and minutes hand, as with a central chronograph seconds. At 9 o’clock you’ll find the running seconds, at 3 o’clock Zenith has placed the 30-minute-counter of the chronograph. No date window disturbs the beautiful synchronicity and balance of the dial.
The most distinctive feature – and our favourite by far – are the unusual minute-markers and the internal tachymeter scale. The latter makes for a clean, sleek bezel. Above the dial arches a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.
The stainless steel case sports an universal diameter of 38 mm and is water-resistant up to 10 atm. The case back is transparent and engraved so the owner can observe the oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève motif.
The Chronomaster El Primero Mr. Porter is powered by the powerful calibre El Primero 4069. It works at a frequency of 5 Hz and provides a power reserve of at least 50 hours.
The Chronograph comes with a blue Alcantara strap featuring white stitching designed to complement the white dial markings.
Each of these 25 limited-edition watches will be exclusively available on Mr. Porter.
Vacheron Constantin has introduced a whole range of new models at this year’s SIHH. We cannot cover them all, but we just have to introduce the new interpretation of one of the manufacture’s most iconic timepieces: the Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar.
The Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is one of the best-known models within Vacheron Constantin’s collection. The new version is available in platinum and pink gold and it combines two key complications – the chronograph and the perpetual calendar – and is powered by the new calibre 1142 QP. This watch leaves nothing to be desired.
The case hasn’t changed, it is still classically round and stepped while bearing the distinctive fluted pattern on its back.
The dial is characterized by the dauphine-style hands and the railway-typed minute track. A white or black tachymeter scale surrounding the dial accentuates the technical nature of the watch.
Exemplifying a concern for legibility, the dial features various shades of grey with finishes that differ according to the functions, reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs. Standing out against a slate- or silver-coloured opaline base, the small seconds and chronograph minutes counters are distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed centre.
The white or pink gold moon disc is hand-finished. Positioned in the centre of the date counter, it provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholy, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite. This is a nod to historical pocket watches.
The sophisticated aesthetic approach is matched by the technical evolution embodied in the movement of the Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. The 1141 QP is replaced by the 1142 QP, a state-of-the-art movement entirely designed and developed within the Vacheron Constantin manufacture. The new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions – with indications of the days, date, months, leap years and moon phases – as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. This watch will be able to keep track of all the vagaries of the calendar without any need for adjustments until March 1st 2100.
With the development of this new caliber, the watchmakers and developers have been attentive to the energy constraints relating to the chronograph functions, in order to minimize their impact on the 48-hour power reserve. The oscillation frequency of the balance has also ben raised from 2.5 Hz to 3 Hz so as to increase reliability and shock resistance.
The Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar comes with a sapphire crystal caseback to allow a glance on the movement.