Archiv für den Monat: Juni 2016

Perrelet: The New LAB Collection

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At Baselworld 2016, Perrelet launched its very latest creation: LAB. The new model heralds a casual chic collection complementing the current collections. Building on its mastery of all phases involved in producing a watch in-house via its own Manufactures, ranging from the development and production of movement components to designing and crafting the cases, dials and finishing work.
This timepiece remains true to the values and DNA of the brand with its signature „dial in motion“. While the many variations of the latter include the classic Double Rotor, the Turbine or the Amytis for women, Perrelet has opted for a discreet and refined version in the LAB line.

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The stainless steel 42 x 42 mm case is cushion-shaped with soft, rounded lines along with brushed and polished lugs. The case middle features a vertical decoration composed of tiny raised rectangles. The polished octagonal bezel with its satin-brushed profile endows the model with considerable character. The case back fitted with a sapphire crystal is assembled with six screws, forming a sturdy and strong case guaranteed water-resistant to 5 bar.

Perrelet Lab CollectionParticular attention has been devoted to the architecture of the dial boasting an original construction. A three-dimensional effect is achieved by the multi-level structure graced with a variety of finishes. The dial available in silver-toned, anthracite or black versions features a central part adorned with vertical lines, while the rim is circular-brushed. The cut-out hour markers are enhanced with white Super-LumiNova and applied to a sapphire crystal ring. The decision to use a transparent element was specifically intended to enable the owner of the LAB watch to admire the most distinctive feature of this timepiece: its oscillating weight.
While the latter is generally visible through the case back, the motion of the oscillating weight can also be observed while reading the time. This was made possible by the calibre P-411, a in-house movement.

Displaying the hours, minutes and seconds by central hands and the date at 6 o’clock, the LAB has a 42-hour power reserve.
The watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap and a stainless steel clasp.

A Contemporary Vision of Haute Horlogerie

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Winner of the Horological Revelation award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2013, the TYPE 3 represents Ressence’s watchmaking philosophy: a balance of technological innovation, mechanical complexity and timeless design.
The approach of Ressence is characterised by the elimination of both standard watch hands and crown, the minimization of the case and the maximization of legibility thanks to oil-filled technology.

The Type 3 builds on the unique patented complication Ressence introduced in 2010 with its Zero series. The ROCS, or Ressence Orbital Convex System, initiated a new way of reading the time without the use of traditional hands. Rather sub-dial discs continually revolve, as does the main disc into which they are set. They are an integral part of the curved dial and their graphs appear to be projected onto the top crystal as if onto a screen.

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The ROCS employs a specially modified automatic caliber that gives the minutes, and hence the base calculation of time, from which is extrapolated all the other temporal indications. The TYPE 3 features a six-part display complication: hours, minutes, runner, day of the week, date and oil temperature.
Because the oil’s volume will fluctuate with temperature, the watch is fitted with a system of seven small bellows. these compress when, with rising temperature, the oil volume increases, or expand if the temperature drops and the volume decreases. The result stabilises the fit of the oil within the watch. The system is indirectly connected to the oil temperature gauge on the dial, so the TYPE 3 owner can see a representation of the bellows capacity in action.
As the ROCS is physically separated from the rest of the watch, Ressence developed a unique magnetic transmission. Several 4_type3nmicro magnets, connected to each other, are positioned inside the oil-filled upper half and the dry lower half. The use of super conductors and the provision of a shield fully protect this system from any negative effects of magnetism.
The watch is run by the specially customised 2824/2 calibre, which comes with a 36 hour power reserve.

With the TYPE 3, Ressence introduced its oil-filled technology, a world first in mechanical horology. The entire upper half is filled with 35.7 mm of oil to obtain a visual effect which is stunning and truly unique. This creates an amazing legibility and the dial seems closer.
The TYPE 3’s case comprises two curved sapphire crystal glasses connected by a 2 mm wide titanium band. As a consequence of this curvature, the watch sits only on the middle of the wrist. Characteristic of Ressence design, the lack of a crown also contributes to this exemplary ease of wear. The entire sapphire case-back fulfils the winding and setting functions of the crown.

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater by Bulgari

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After the world’s thinnest tourbillon model launched in 2014, Bulgari now launches the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, which earns the title of the smallest on the market. Bulgari is taking a new step in this field, once again pushing the limits. The Octo ist not just any watch. Already an iconic model, it reinvents itself in 2016 with a new collection..
The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater lays the foundations of a new approach to mechanics and to classic complications while extending Bulgari’s line of ultra-thin watches. With this timepiece the watch manufacturer also preserves its status and cultivates watchmaking traditions by combining extreme slenderness with one of the most elaborate horological complications.

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A striking watch implies a number of specific construction constraints and full command of certain distinctive skills in order to achieve the best possible outcome: an intense, crystal-clear chime with a perfectly uniform and regular cadence when the mechanism is activated. The aim was to achieve the perfect sound within the smallest possible space. Therefore, it had to made from titanium: in addition to its appreciable lightness, the properties of this low-density metal ensure the best possible sound diffusion.

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The circular-section gongs directly affixed to the case are individually fashioned and finished by hand throughout the production process, which involves many separate stages, as are the two hammers. The pusher activating the striking mechanism is positioned on the case middle at 9 o’clock. It is designed to guarantee continuous water resistance to 50 m.
The in-house developed and produced BVL Calibre 362 measures just 3.12 mm thick and the overall case thickness amounts to only 6.85 mm. It is hand-wound and delivers a 42-hour power reserve once fully wound.

The hour-markers on the dial – made from titanium like the case – feature an incised, cut-out design, as too does the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock: the openings serve to amplify resonance inside the case and thereby  optimise the sound effect.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater embodies a paradigm shift in terms of slenderness and lays the foundations of a new approach to mechanics and to classic complications, all the while preserving and cultivating watchmaking traditions.
This watch is a limited, 50-piece edition.

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch

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The 2016 Pilot’s Watch collection from IWC Schaffhausen offers a wide, balanced range of Pilot’s Watches stretching from the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 48 and Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55 to the Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII and the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36. And the new Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph is the perfect world time watch for frequent travellers.

But we are taking a closer look at the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition „Antoine de Saint Exupéry“ (Ref. IW503801). With this watch the German watch manufacturer pays tribute to the extraordinary life’s work of a great humanist and aviation pioneer. With the tobacco brown dial and a calfskin strap, both of which call to mind Saint-Exupéry’s flying suit, IWC’s designers have ensured that this watch too, is outstanding and instantly recognizable. Since the beginning of the partnership between IWC Schaffhausen and the Fondation Antoine de Saint-Exupéry in 2005, these colours established themselves as the hallmarks of the „Antoine de Saint-Exupéry“ editions.
Watches always played an important role in the life of aviation pioneer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.
At the same time, the name of the watch stands for good causes, since a part of the proceeds from sales goes to the foundation and its partner organizations.

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The watch is packed with technical features. The perpetual calendar shows not only the lunar cycles but also the seconds, minutes, hours, date, day, month and year in four digits. Mechanically programmed, all the displays are automatically advanced and will take into account different month lengths and all the leap days in the Gregorian calendar until 2100, without the need for a single correction. Not until 1st of March 2100 a watchmaker will need to adjust the calendar manually.
This is the first time that the IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre movement from the new 52000 family has been used in a Pilot’s Watch. Twin barrels supply the power needed to provide 7 days‘ running time and to drive the additional functions and displays.

The polished bezel underscores the singular quality of the watch as much as the sun-pattern finish on the dial does. The cone-shaped crown is reminiscent of the pioneering age of aviation. The rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and the indices are coated with luminescent material, while the red-tipped date, day and month hands recall cockpit instruments. The power reserve display, which is combined with the date display at 3 o’clock on the dial, slowly counter clockwise from 1 to 7, indicating that the movement is fully wound. A glance through the transparent sapphire-glass back reveals the movement’s design.
The 46-millimetre stainless-steel case is water-resistant to 6 bar and the glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition „Antoine de Saint Exupéry“ features the brown Santoni calfskin strap with the eye-catching seams and thus recalls, once again, Saint Exupéry’s flying suit.
This watch comes as a limited edition with just 750 pieces made.