The new Grande Seconde Off-Centered by Jaquet Droz is daring to create contrast, is playing with light and transforming materials. Its new theme of gold and black jade bringts together the principal codes of the Maison in a wonderful timepiece that breaks with conventions ever so elegantly.
While the design of the Grande Seconde, created by Pierre Jaquet-Droz almost three centuries ago, is ever recognizable, it is a trademark of the Maison. And in the Grande Seconde Off-Centered it is as characteristic as ever – even if it brings a resolute difference into the collection: the time is off-center. The alignment of the hours and minutes with the independent large seconds is respected but along a slightly slanted axis, from 1 o’clock to 7 o’clock.
For the dial, Jaquet Droz focuses on one of its most impressive skills: the masterful use of minerals. Mineral dials offer unique motifs time and again. The stones, sometimes dating back several millions of years, are perfectly set in scene and reveal themselves in all their magnificent singularity. Black jade is one such treasure. Almost exclusively of Australian origin, it comes from two principal sites in the south and east of the continent. It is an extremely hard stone, thanks to the presence of metal in its composition, and requires lengthy polishing to reveal the tiny silver sinclusions that are its hidden secret. Almost imperceptible to the naked eye, they enrich black jade with a unique reflection that does not only look stunning, but allows the knowledgeable eye to distinguish it from onyx.
The barely 1 mm thick mineral sheet of the dial is paired with a 43 mm red gold case featuring warm, coppery highlights. The two time display circles and their hands are also in red gold, creating a fascinating contrast with the black background. Inside the 3 atm water-resistant case works the Jaquet Droz 2663A.P. This in-house automatic movement works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provide a power-reserve of up to 68 hours.
The new Grande Seconde Off-Centered is a limited edition of 88 pieces. It is completed by a black alligator leather strap.
It has been more than 85 years since Breitling introduced the first modern chronograph, whose influence on the watch design in general has been incalculable back then. With its new Navitimer B03 Chronograph Rattrapante 45, featuring its interpretation of one of watchmaking’s greatest complications, the brand has shown that it is still offering innovations.
The Navitimer B03 Chronograph Rattrapante 45 is as aesthetically impressive as it is technically sophisticated. Housed in a big, bold 45 mm red gold case, it is distinguished by a Stratos Gray dial and is water-resistant up to 3 bar. Its hour markers and hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova, which guarantees easy legibility in all lighting conditions. The chronograph has a bidirectional rotating bezel with the circular slide ruler that has long been associated with Breitling’s Navitimers. Breitling has varied the stylized „B“ logo with an anchor symbol for this watch and divided it between two hands. The „B“ is on the red chronograph hand, while the anchor sits on the split-second hand. As a result, the two elements of the logo are separated when the split-second hand is stopped and reform when the hands realign with each other.
The split-second pusher, which is housed in the crown at 3 o’clock, serves to stop and restart the split-second hand as often as desired during a timing operation, allowing the wearer to measure split times or compare the results of several competitors.
Breitling has equipped the Navitimer B03 Chronograph Rattrapante 45 with an in-house movement, the calibre B03. It is a unique split-second movement. With its two superimposed central chronograph hands, it can measure two elapsed times simultaneously. The COSC-certified chronometer, whose performance can be viewed through the transparent sapphire caseback, offers a power reserve of around 70 hours. The automatic movement works at a frequency of 4 Hz.
Breitling has equipped the Navitimer B03 Chronograph Rattrapante 45 with a black alligator leather strap.
Seiko recently introduced a new, extremely slim design in its Elegance-Collection. The combination of a new case and a hand-wound calibre with a small second and Urushi lacquer expresses the unique Japanese aesthetic of Grand Seiko.
The new Urushi creation, available in two versions, combines two outstanding Japanese crafts. Thanks to the watchmaker’s skills, every detail reflects Grand Seiko’s understated design aesthetics.
The dial and sapphire crystal are so slightly curved to give the watches a classic look. The minute hand as well as the hand of the power reserve are slightly curved to follow the contours of the dial.
The Urushi dials are made by a master craftsman. He also applies the hour markings and the letters „GS“ with the traditional Maki-e technique to the dials of the watches. By applying the lacquer in layers, the markings are given a three-dimensional profile and a decentralised presence on the dial. A gold or platinum powder is then applied and the surface polished. This process gives the Maki-e its discreetly shimmering appearance.
With the dials at the centre, the subsidiary dials for the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the power-reserve indicator at 3 o’clock are subtle and understated.
The case is polished with a special Zaratsu technique that underlines the beauty of the curved surfaces. It has a diameter of 39 mm and is water-resistant up to 3 bar.
Inside works the 9S63 calibre, which is a significant addition to the ever-growing number of Grand Seiko movements. Eight years have passed since Grand Seiko unveiled its last mechanical hand-wound calibre, but we’d say it was worth the wait.
The 9S63 operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, offers a power reserve of 72 hours and is highly accurate with a deviation of +5 to -3 seconds.
The new Design Series consists of three limited editions. Seiko has combined the two Urushi versions with a red gold case and limited each to 150 pieces. The third model has a stainless steel case and a blue dial and will come in a edition of 1.500 pieces. In July, a version with a gold case will expand the collection.
All models are complemented by a crocodile leather strap.
The Bovet Virtuoso V paires jumping hours, retrograde minutes and a double-sided time display with a flamboyant red guilloché dial.
The heart of the Virtuoso V is undoubtedly its dial. It occupies the entire surface of the movement, giving it a completely new identity. While Bovet’s watchmakers ensured that all the information is displayed at the same level, the manufacturers of the dial created an unprecedented guilloche motif. The original stepped arrangement has given way to greater classicism, which enhances the artistic crafts and exemplary finishes of all the components. After decorating the metal base with a guilloché motif, they applied a dozen layers of translucent red lacquer. This creates an impression of depth as well as beautiful reflections that add the the dial’s magic.
In terms of technology, the Virtuoso V integrates two complications that are notoriously difficult to combine: jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The jump of the hour disk must be perfectly synchronized with the jump of the minute hand. This timepiece belongs to the Fleurier Complications Collection and is fitted with the patented Amadeo convertible case, allowing it to be transformed into a reversible wristwatch, a table clock, or a pocket watch, without the need for a single tool. As a result, hours and minutes can be found on both sides of the movement. A power reserve indicator completes the indications by displaying a remarkable autonomy of five days, ensured by the use of a single barrel. finally, to add to the timepiece’s functions, the watchmakers developed a corrector independent of the hour disk that can display a different time zone on each side of the timepiece.
The red or white gold Bovet case has a diamter of 43.5 mm and is water resistant up to 3 atm. Inside, works the calibre 13BM11 AIHSMR. The hand-wound movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides an impressive power reserve of 5 days.
Bovet delivers the Virtuoso V with an alligator leather strap and a red or white gold chain so that the watch can also be used as a pocket watch.
In January, H. Moser & Cie. launched two new watches that combine comfort and are designed for everyday wear. Their elegant, audacious and contemporary design evokes references to the industrial world. The two timepieces are part of the Pioneer family and come in sturdy cases. The Pioneer Tourbillon and Pioneer Centre Seconds adapt to any situation.
H. Moser & Cie. has equipped both models with red gold casings with DLC-finished titanium inserts. The cases have a diameter of 42.8 mm and are waterproof to 120 metres.
The Midnight Blue fumé dial is topped with a domed sapphire crystal that highlights the deep blue tones. The indices, tipped with a luminescent dot, are faceted, and the hands are partially skeletonized with Super-LumiNova tips, perfectly in line with the open, streamlined aesthetic.
The Pioneer Tourbillon is powered by the HMC 804 Manufacture Calibre. The automatic movement was developed by H. Moser & Cie. and is also manufactured in-house. It is equipped with a double flat hairspring, which reduces the effect of gravity on the mechanism and thus improves accuracy. H. Moser & Cie. designed the tourbillon as an interchangeable module, assembled and regulated independently of the movement, which allows easy servicing. The calibre HMC 804 provides a power reserve of 72 hours.
The Pioneer Centre Seconds is also powered by an automatic movement. H. Moser & Cie. designed and manufactured the HMC 200 also completely in-house.
Like all H. Moser & Cie. movements, these two movements are 100% Swiss Made and elaborately finished by hand. All of this is visible through the crystal sapphire case back.
A rubber strap provides the final touch, reinforcing the contemporary dynamic of this stylish model, with a bold touch of non-conformity. H. Moser & Cie. has created two stylish models with a contemporary dynamic.
The Pioneer Tourbillon is a limited of 50 pieces, the Pioneer Centre Seconds however, is not limited.
The elegant Piaget Polo has represented the sporty and casual side of Piaget Manufacture since 1979, when the collection was first launched. This year’s Piaget Polo models capture the essence of the Maison in 2019, injecting the collection’s recurring vitality with a pop of colour and a dash of sparkle.
In 2016, the Piaget Polo debuted a refreshed look that updated its hallmark design for the new millenium. The slender proportions remained, but with a larger case size and a bezel that blended oblong and round shapes for an exuberant celebration of Piaget’s signature aesthetic. The classic faceted dauphine hands embraced a friendlier approach, trading sharp angles for softer curves. The bold horizontal dial and case godroons transitioned into dial guillochage that offered subtle texture without overpowering it.
Following the popularity of the steel launch models and the acclaimed 2018 introduction of gold to the new Piaget Polo, the 2019 models confidently move the collection into other areas of the Maison’s expertise – the use of colour and gem-setting.
The steel 42 mm Piaget Polo comes dressed in verdant hues, with a green dial that changes in tone and intensity depending on the angle of light that hits the guilloché surface. A dark green alligator leather strap completes the tone-on-tone look.
A second 42 mm model, this time in red gold, comes in two diamond-set versions. The first features a simple halo of brilliant-cut diamonds on the emblematic bezel, whilst the second is unrestrainedly spirited with a fully paved dial and bezel. These models come with two alligator straps for maximum versatility; a sober blue strap sets off the sparkle of diamonds while a deep gament strap emphasises the warmth of the red-gold case.
The new Piaget Polo models of 2019 are driven by the automatic calibre 1110P of Manufacture Piaget, ensuring a high level of timekeeping performance designed for our modern times. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.
All new Piaget Polo watches show hours, minutes, seconds, as well as a date at 6 o’clock.
Today we look at an extraordinary ladies watch; a timepiece imbued with the spirit of the jeweler’s craft – the new Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower. Minimalist and richly ornate by turns, the Lady 8 and its distinctive undulating silhouette have made their marks as touchstones of femininity, elegance and watchmaking refinement.
The Lady 8 Flower, a fusion of the arts and crafts Jaquet Droz is known to master, is made up of two superimposed circles creating a figure of eight. The eight is an emblematic number for the brand and a symbol of harmony, perfection and infinity. The lower circle features a delicate butterfly, its wings outstretched. Two versions are available: one with the butterfly’s wings painted and engraved in translucent red enamel on a guilloché background; the other, incorporating jewels, features a butterfly set with blue sapphires and portrait against snow-set diamonds. The upper circle reveals a lotus flower under a sapphire crystal dome. Representing serenity and poetry, and sacret to many Asian cultures, the flower has been crafted with the utmost care. Each petal is individually enameled or engraved to give its back a perfect satin finish.
The watch shows only hours and minutes.
As a mysterious bud or fully opened jewel-like bloom, this animation is not simply a pure vision of naturalistic and poetic beauty. By pressing a push-button the lotus flower opens, revealing its diamond heart. For Jaquet Droz, the timepiece also presented a new technical challenge: accommodating the two mechanisms, the watch’s and the automaton’s – within a 35 mm diameter case, while ensuring one never interferes with the other.
The Lady 8 Flower is powered by a mechanical movement which beats with 21,600 v/ph and provides a power reserve of 38 hours.
The case comes with brilliant cut diamonds either in red or white gold and water-resistant up to 38 hours. Jaquet Droz limited both versions; the red gold one to 28 pieces, the white gold Lady 8 Flower to 8 pieces.
The Historiques collection, dedicated to Vacheron Constantin’s creative archetypes, highlights the wealth of the technical and aesthetic heritage of the Manufacture through contemporary reinterpretations. New models are now reviving three icons much sought-after among collectors. We are looking today at the Cornes de vache 1955, inspired by a legendary 1955 chronograph, reinterpreted in pink gold.
Embodying a singular blend of creative boldness and rigorous technical standards, this classic watch fitted with its distinctive „cow horns“ lugs, which gave the chronograph its name, was inspired by the first water-resistant chronograph designed by Vacheron Constantin in 1955. The vintage icon is reinterpreted in pink gold, in keeping with the spirit of the 1950s, the era that sparked its creation.
Combining tradition, disruptive design and technical sophistication, the Historiques Cornes de vache 1955 chronograph embodies a stylistic originality typical of Vacheron Constantin. It expresses the unconventional creativity of the Manufacture in the 1950s through its stylised lugs creating an aesthetic tension with the traditional chronograph construction with two round pushers.
The silver opaline dial of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques cornes de vache 1955 is punctuated by applied numerals and hour-markers. The seconds hand in the centre as well as the hand of the 30-minute-counter at 3 o’clock are blue, enhancing the chronograph functions. A tachymetric scale on the dial allows the wearer of the watch to calculate speeds.
Equipped with a column wheel shaped like a Maltese cross, the emblem of the Manufacture, the calibre 1142 drives the hours, minutes and small seconds as well as the chronograph functions while ensuring a 48-hour power reserve. It bears also the Hallmark of Geneva. The entirely hand-decorated manual-winding movement is revealed through the transparent back of the 38.5 mm-diameter case which is water-resistant up to 30 metres.
The Vacheron Constantin Historiques cornes de vache 1955 is equipped with a hand-stitched, brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap.