Schlagwort-Archive: design

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 Flow

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In the post-war years of the late 1940s and 1950s, aerodynamic principles were just beginning to take root in the field of automotive design. Curvilinear forms became more prominent, carrying the immediate promise of power and speed. Thereby, designers were guided by their aesthetic sense. The result were automobiles like the Mercedes-Benz W196 and 1948 Buick Streamliner. Other industries followed, notably that of aviation.
And now, MB&F is presenting the Horological Machine N°9 Flow, which is inspired by the dynamic profiles of automotive and aviation mid-century design.

Reminiscent of a jet engine, a highly complex case in alternating polished and satin finishes encloses an equally complex manual winding movement, developed fully in house. Independent twin balance wheels beat at a leisurely 2.5 Hz on each flank of Horological Machine N°9, visible under elongated domes of sapphire crystal. A Third pane of sapphire crystal on the central body reveals the gearbox of the HM9 engine: a planetary differential that averages the output of both balance wheels to provide on stable reading of the time.
Sitting perpendicular to the rest of the HM9 engine is the dial indicating hours and minutes, driven by conical gears that ensure precise engagement even when motion is put through a 90° planar translation. The winding and setting crown is located on the rear of the central body, its deep fluting providing ergonomic grip as well as aesthetic coherence with the overall design.
Two satin-finished air scoops are mounted alongside the pods containing the oscillating balance wheels, evoking the raised vents that allow continuous airflow to high-performance motor engines.

HM9 Flow treads the path first opened by the HM4 Thunderbolt and subsequently by the HM6 Space Pirate, utilising a geometrically complex combination of milled case elements in both sapphire crystal and metal (titanium and red gold). However, HM9 goes beyond its predecessors, redefining what was thought to be possible in case design – illustrated for example by a three-dimensional gasket ensuring water resistance.

Quite naturally, HM9 Flow was therefore declined in two versions, drawing their inspiration from the two main sources: A „Road“ version with a speedometer-style dial; an „Air“ version with an aviator-style dial.
Both versions are limited to 18 pieces each.

Ochs und Junior Does It Again

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The watches made by Ochs und Junior look very simple and lack much of the usual pomp of luxury watches. At the same time, they present an extremely sophisticated approach to modern watchmaking that emphasises functionality for itself. But this does not mean that watchmakers as well as watch lovers do not absolutely adore the puristic wristwatches.
The latest addition to the Ochs und Junior collection, the two time zones + date, also embodies the manufacturer’s strictly uncluttered design philosophy.

The two time zones + date shows hours and minutes in two different time zones, the date in your home timezone, running seconds and the power reserve. The big innovation in this watch is how Ochs und Junior has decided to implement the second time zone. Instead of adding an extra hand, Ochs and Junior opted for a central hour disc and replaced the traditional hour hand with one with a wedge-shaped opening. The main hand shows the local time, while the opening frames the hours of the second time zone.
The spiral date display, which runs around the outer rim of the dial, consists of 30+1 holes that are easy and intuitive to read. The small disc at twelve o’clock indicates the power reserve (the dot pointing to the right, when the watch is fully wound, and pointing to the left when the power reserve gets empty), while the small disc at six o’clock indicates the running seconds.

The Ochs und Junior two time zones + date display is powered by the Ulysse Nardin UN-118 basic movement, to which only ten additional components have been added to implement the date display and the GMT time. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 60 hours.
All settings are made via the crown.

The two time zones + date comes in a 42mm titanium or PVD-coated titanium or silver case. And like everything else – the dial, bracelet and the colour of the Super-LumiNova – the case material can be changed to fit the individual taste of the buyer. This is a feature, Ochs und Junior offers for all its watches, how awesome is that?
The case is water resistant up to 10 atm.

The Ochs und Junior two time zones + datum is as much fun as the other models made by the manufacturer. It is always exciting to see how Ochs und Junior can implement new functions once more simply and intuitively. And we can hardly wait to see what will be next.

DB28GS Grand Bleu: Bethunes First Sports Watch

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This year, watch manufacturer De Bethune presents its first 100% sports watch. This diver’s watch is equipped with a new caliber, water-resistance to more than 100 meters and makes a lasting impression with an exceptionally good readability. De Bethune developed and designed the DB28GS Grand Bleu to be a resolutely sporty watch – while cultivating the aesthetic elegance cherished by the brand.
Just 10 years ago, De Bethune began developing timepieces with a more contemporary spirit with the first DB28. Already at that time, De Bethune’s founder and Master Watchmaker, Denis Flageollet, an outdoor sports enthusiast, felt the need to create watches adapted to an active lifestyle. In 2015, the first DB28GS was launched, followed by the DB28GS Grand Bleu, De Bethune’s first diver’s watch.

Since not only divers‘ watches in particular, but sports watches in general – in every situation, in any kind of weather and under the poorest of lighting conditions – should be particularly easy to read, De Bethune developed a special lighting system for the DB28GS Grand Bleu. To illuminate the watch and the movement from the inside, the slightly bluish white light source is produced by a fully mechanical means that works on the dynamo principle. Neither electronics nor a battery is needed. A pusher at 6 o’clock activates a mechanism that provides the energy needed to light the watch.

As a diver’s watch, the DB28GS Grand Bleu is also equipped with a uni-directional rotating bezel which serves to enable accurate calculation of immersion time, as well as the transition through various decompression stops. Generally, all the numerals relating to the minutes counter are indicated on the bezel, which tends to create a more crowded visual effect. For the DB28GS Grand Bleu, these indications appear on the sapphire crystal driven by the bezel. This enables the model to remain unusually slim for a diver’s watch.
The DB28GS Grand Bleu displays central hours, minutes and seconds.

The DB28GS Grand Bleu is powered by a new movement, the 27th from the De Bethune factory. The hand-wound calibre operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of five days.
The movement is housed in a titanium case with a diameter of 44 millimetres and a water resistance of 10 atm. De Bethune has placed the crown at 12 o’clock, and the patented system of floating lugs ensures that the watch sits perfectly on the wrist.

The DB28GS Grand Bleu is delivered with two straps: a canvas version and a striated natural rubber iteration.

Sculptured, Enigmatic, Architectural: The New HYT

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Sculpture gives mass meaning. The latest H20 from HYT looks to this visual art that operates in three dimensions to shed light on the essence of time. Viewed from any aspect, the sculpted timepiece unveils new angles on time, while colored and clear liquids keep its essential flow permanently present. Second by second, further layers of time are revealed, witnessed and anticipated.

The all-black color-scheme, right through to the coating of the movement’s bridges, intensifies the visual drama between mystery and transparency. This intrinsic interplay of time and space brings to life the core HYT belief that time is defined by content and context.
These timepieces represent the culmination of a quest to define and capture the essence of time. Its conclusion is clear: the time is now – always.

In these two new limited editions of the H20, the three-dimensional quality of the design acquires additional visual tension. A striking contrast between black diamond-like carbon coating and the doomed crystal hosting apparently floating digits. The whole presents an architectural entity, tempting the eye to take a new perspective on time – and watchmaking.
The skeletonized numerals ring features white lacquered interior and black indices. The minute hand as well as the HNR hand are equipped with Super-LumiNova. The stainless steel case combines polished an satin finished surfaces and features a diameter of 51 mm while measuring 19.95 mm in height. The case is water resistant up to 3 atm.

The blue (and red) liquid traces the path of time’s recent journey while replacing the clear liquid beyond the meniscus. The liquids are pushed through the capillary tubes by multi-layered metal bellows.
The patented fluidic module works in collaborates with a mechanical movement exclusively developed for HYT by APRP. Seamless transition between these two protagonists is assured by the conversion of rotation into linear motion via a cam-follower system. This calibre works at a frequency of 3 Hz and boasts a gigantic power reserve of 192 hours.

The HYT H20 comes with a black rubber bracelet. The watch is a limited edition of only 10 pieces, so if you really want one of these, you better hurry.

Autobahn: Nomos Glashütte in Pole Position

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The newest addition to the collection of Nomos Glashütte, the Autobahn neomatik 41 date, was off to a flying start when introduced last spring. With its eclectic design, the watch not only generated a buzz, it was also nominated for the Red Dot Award – and won it in the end. It is the first big prize for this sporty automatic model – but not for Nomos Glashütte. Ten other models of the manufacturer are already honored with this esteemed prize which stands for innovative products with outstanding form, function, aesthetics and quality.
So let’s look at this new watch, which has – both aesthetically and technically – plenty to offer.

The curves of the dial and the sub-seconds entice the eye to explore this timepiece’s unfamiliar depths. The elongated date window at six o’clock is particularly easy to read, displaying three days at a glance. In addition, it is elegantly curved, integrating itself beautifully into the dial. The luminous ring of Super-LumiNova makes the Autobahn neomatik 41 date easily readable even at night. We also love the orange accents on the dial: the neomatik logo, the tip of the hour hand as well as the hand of the small seconds at 6 o’clock. The subdial of the latter is lowered very beautifully and ingeniously, creating more gentle curves and depth.

Within the slender yet robust stainless steel case, which boasts a diameter of 41 mm and a 10 atm water-resistance, ticks the second highly complex and highly precise neomatic caliber from Nomos Glashütte, this time with a date function: DUW 6101. Just like the first neomatik caliber, this one is ultra-slim – even with its self-winding mechanism and date function.
Along with the white silver-plated version, Autobahn neomatik 41 date also comes with dials in midnight blue and sports gray.

The Nomos Glashütte Autobahn neomatik 41 date is for everyone who loves clean lines, swift curves and perfectly executed surfaces. We are already convinced.

Hublot Big Bang Depeche Mode „The Singles“ Limited Edition

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Hublot and Depeche Mode are releasing a collector’s edition series of 55 unique Big Bang watches, inspired by each of the band’s 55 singles. All net proceeds from the sale will benefit charity: water. Hublot and Depeche Mode work together since 2010 – always for the benefit of the NGO.
One of the most influential, beloved and best-selling musical acts of all time, Depeche Mode have sold over 100 million records worldwide and have played to more than 30 million fans since their formation in 1981. And, in their 37-year career, Depeche Mode have released an incredible 55 singles, from „Dreaming of Me“ in 1981 to last year’s release of „Cover Me“.
In tribute to this achievement, the Swiss watchmaker Hublot introduces a collection of 55 unique pieces of its Big Bang Unico Model. „We are greatly honoured and moved by Hublot’s support of charity: water with this new collection of watches commemorating all of our singles,“ says Martin Gore, Depeche Mode’s main songwriter and founding member. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, is also thrilled about the collaboration: „Depeche Mode are iconic in the history of contemporary music. We identify with their passion, stronger now than ever, and with their constantly growing creativity. We are lucky enough to share many values with them, including the commitment to the activities of the charity: water NGO.“

As previously mentioned are all 55 models unique pieces, basing on Hublot’s Big Bang. Each of the watches features, on its dial, a disc that partially shows the image of the record cover it represents, which is reminiscent of the very first model produced by the partnership between Hublot and Depeche Mode. The back of each watch features the entire cover of the single as well as the charity: water logo.
The case has a diameter of 45 mm and is made from polished black ceramic. They are water resistant up to 10 atm.
All  Big Bang Depeche Mode „The Singles“ watches are powered by UNICO movements. Produced by the Hublot manufacture. The automatic calibre HUB1242 is a flyback self-winding movement chronograph; it works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

Jedes Modell ist mit einem Armband in einer speziellen Farbe ausgestattet.
Die Kollektion ist mit dem UNICO Werk aus Hublots eigener Manufaktur ausgestattet. Das Kaliber HUB1242 ist ein Automatikwerk mit Flyback-Chronograph und bietet eine Gangreserve von 72 Stunden. Es arbeitet mit 4 Hz oder 28.800 Halbschwingungen pro Stunde.

Each piece will be fitted with a strap in a colour specific to each model, completed with cuff straps in the same hue, and rock-and-roll inspired rubber studs.
A Roland JP-08 synthesiser will accompany each timepiece.  The Roland JP-08 is a limited-edition synth module from the Roland Boutique series, paying homage to the legendary Roland Jupiter 8 synth, used by Depeche Mode throughout the years.

Retrograde Shock Waves in the UR-210 Black Platinum

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Urwerk, widely known for its unusual watches and exciting time displays just introduced a new version of its UR-210. Nobody can the deny the appeal – and the success – of this model.
Urwerk presents this masterpiece in a black platinum version, in keeping with a tradition held since its foundation. May we introduce: the UR-210 Black Platinum.

You have to keep your eyes glued to the dial as the minute hand approaches the end of its hour. Don’t blink our you’ll miss a display of controlled energy in the lighting return of the retrograde hand as it snaps back to the start of the next hour. The action is too swift for the eye but you hear the sharp click that announces the arrival of the hand on exactly zero. Raw power, masterful restrained and controlled.
The combination of the revolving satellite complication and retrograde minutes is seen nowhere as in the UR-210. The prominent three-dimensional minute hand acts as a high-tech cowling that encloses the hours and carries them in turn smoothly across the minute scale.

The speed of the flyback depends on three key factors: The central hub ensures that the mechanism remains stable and constitutes the rock on which the entire complication rests. A cylindrical spring along the shaft accumulates the power for the retrograde function. The unusual minute hand that acts as a cowling to transport the hours has equally uncommon dimensions. Machined in aluminium, it is perfectly balanced by a brass counterweight. A double co-axial cam in the shape of a star governs the retrograde action. Its gearing and its rotation determine the trajectory of the minute hand.

The dial of the UR-210 Black Platinum also features a power reserve indicator at 1 o’clock and opposite at 11 o’clock there seems to be a second one. But it is, in fact, a similar indication which is also very different. It shows the winding efficiency during the last two hours. This feature is the world’s first! It calculates the energy flow, the ratio between the energy generated and consumed. If you’re sitting comfortably in a chair, not moving much, you’ll see the hand of the winding efficiency indicator move slowly towards the red sector. Then it’s time to adjust the winding rate. The adjuster for this feature is on the back of the watch. If it’s switched to „Full“ the rotor becomes sensitive to the slightest motion, on „reduced“ it absorbs some of the energy created by the rotor. In the „Stop“ position, the UR-210 becomes a manually wound watch.
The calibre UR-7.10 works at a frequency of 4 Hz.

The case is designed in a way that it appears to have reacted to the force of the flyback minutes, developing a series of regular shock waves radiating from the dial. The deep furrowed arcs also accentuate the beautiful hexagonal design of the case which is water resistant up to 3 atm.

The UR-210 Black Platinum is a limited edition of 25 watches.

RJ-Romain Jerome’s Newest Piece: RJ x Spider-Man

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RJ-Romain Jerome has once again joined forces with Marvel, one of the biggest entertainment companies in the world. Because that’s what the watch manufacturer does, and does best. The result is another exceptional piece, this time dedicated to the most agile Super Hero: Spider-Man.
Spider-Man has widely spread into pop culture from its first appearance in the early sixties in a comic book to today. He is one of Marvel’s best known and most popular Super Heroes, he is also part of the Avengers, and since the first Spider-Man movie featuring Tobey Maguire in 2002, Marvel is reigning over the Super Hero movie universe with an iron fist.

The RJ x Spider-Man is presented in RJ-Romain Jerome’s elegant Skylab case which follows the rule of a classic round-shaped case with four lugs. Enhanced with the four paws characteristic for Romain Jerome, the all black case, made from PVD-coated steel with a satin-finish, reveals a skeleton movement offering endless transparency. The case offers a diameter of massive 48 mm and is waterproof up to 3 bar.
The intricacy of the model also resides in the different perspectives on the dial and the elements that intertwine – the central, bright red spider-shaped applique, the transparency of the skeleton as well as the web metallized on the sapphire crystal. The timeless spider logo is taking center stage on the dial and is probably the best evocation of the character Peter Parker, whose life changed forever with the bite of a radioactive spider.

The modern 3-layer movement featuring straight bridges and chamfered angles comes from the RJ-Romain Jerome design labs. The calibre RJ004-M is a mechanical movement that works at 28,800 vph and grants a power reserve of 48 hours minimum. It features only hours and minutes.

The RJ x Spider-Man comes with a black rubber strap.
This edition is limited to 75 pieces and every one will cost 20.950€.

How About an Engine Block on the Wrist?

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This month, Parmigiani Fleurier introduced a wristwatch inspired by a car – so fundamentally, that it comes with an engine, a driver’s cab and a bodywork. The Bugatti Typ 390 is a tribute to the Bugatti Chiron. This car stands out due to its extreme power, reliability and performance – could there be a better inspiration for a watch?
Parmigiani Fleurier has teamed up with Bugatti in 2004 and since then the watch manufacturer has challenged the traditional Haute Horlogerie with daring new models, each inspired by a luxurious car. It all began with the Bugatti Type 370 and Parmigiani Fleurier continued to stay on its pioneering path ever since.

A true phenomenon in the traditional watch design landscape, the new Bugatti Type 390 is primarily an engine block on the wrist. Nor frills, no purely decorative elements: everything is focused on performance and on the essentials, on performance and reliability. The engine block on the wrist with its horizontal cylindrical construction took four years to develop.

Inspired by the principles behind the construction of the Chiron, the designers chose an engine/interior/bodywork design. Specifically, the horizontal cylindrical movement (the engine) is connected by a worm screw to the dial and the displays (the interior) which are positioned perpendicularly. The entire assembly is enveloped in a gold and sapphire crystal case (the bodywork) through which the moving mechanism can be admired.
The black open-worked dial makes the Bugatti Type 390 a lightweight yet high-performance timepiece. The luminescent applique indices and hands create a stark contrast to ensure optimal legibility. The seconds can be read through the magnifying effect of the sapphire crystal at the end of the cylinder.

Inspired by the fluid curves of the Bugatti Chiron, the case of the Bugatti Type 390 is created from gold and engraved on the back with a serial number.The case was created by Les Artisans Boîtiers and is constructed around the cylindrical structure and is water resistant to 3 atm. It stands out thanks to its ability to pivot 12° around its drive shift (patent pending) to ensure perfect ergonomics around any wrist.
Large openings topped with sapphire crystal allow the wearer to admire the technical sophistication of the timepiece: via the top and the end of the tubular structure one can dive deep into the heart of the complex mechanisms – the „engine“ and the flying tourbillon – while the openings over and under the dial reveal the watch’s many gears and enable the time to be read.

The mechanical, cylindrical PF390 movement is equipped with a flying tourbillon. Specially developed for this watch, the calibre is housed in a cylinder boasting an 80-hour power reserve thanks to its two series-mounted barrels.
Parmigiani has slimmed down the movement to a point where its diameter is no larger than the regulator of its 60-second tourbillon. In view of the cylindrical configuration of the movement, the usual wheel-pinion-wheel-pinion configuration is replaced by a transmission using three planetary gear trains. Each of these is equipped with a central train wheel. Another key point is the fact that the assembly requires no lubrication: a significant advantage in terms of reliability and maintenance. The series-type coupling of the two barrels guarantees a constant transfer of energy. The flying tourbillon oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz.
In light of the watch’s innovative features and the unique solution it offers, the calibre PF390 heralds a new era in Parmigiani Fleurier’s Bugatti collection. It has been designed and created to become the platform for development of future Bugatti models.

The alligator leather strap is made by Hermès and fitted with a gold folding buckle. Parmigiani Fleurier has limited this watch to a edition of 20 pieces – 10 pink and 10 white gold versions.
It is clear that the Bugatti Type 390 is far more than a watch stamped with a car marque logo; it is the Bugatti Chiron reborn in watch form.

Retro: The Hamilton Ventura 60th Anniversary Edition

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This year, Hamilton celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Ventura. It’s the perfect opportunity to woo us with an anniversary edition, containing no less than three interpretations of the classic wristwatch.
The original Ventura was introduced in 1957 and with its extravagant looks it found fans fast. Like the King of Rock’n’Roll for example, who wore a Ventura in his movie „Blue Hawaii“. But the Ventura was not only beautiful, moreover it was the first watch powered by a then revolutionary electric caliber.

The new Ventura Class and the Ventura Elvis Skeleton are the backbone of the new remarkable trio by capturing the unconventional case design of its predecessor. The dials of the Ventura Classic with their large symbol for electricity remind of the pioneering feat, the world’s first electric wristwatch achieved.
Within this trilogy past and present join up in the form of a celebration watch with yellow gold PVD stainless steel case. In an additional flash of acknowledgement to Ventura’s illustrious past, a brown lizard-patterned leather strap, white dial with golden hour markers and hands and flash of red at the tip of the second hand provide an unmistakable touch of vintage elegance.

For the next version Hamilton has opted for a jeans design. Not only the strap is made from this fabric but the dial wears a 3D printed jeans-pattern.
The third Ventura comes with an unconventional skeletonized dial which is meant to remind of Elvis’s microphone. The cut-outs provide an insight into the automatic movement beneath. For this watch the customer can choose between a stainless steel bracelet or a caoutchouc one.

All cases come with a charming retro look – although the one of the Hamilton Ventura Elvis Skeleton is a little more modern – and are water resistant up to 5 bar. The Elvis Ventura measures 42.5 x 44.6 mm, the other two versions come in two different sizes: 24 x 36.5 mm or 32.3 x 50.3 mm.

Whether past, present or future – every version of the Ventura honors the heritage of the collection as well as Hamilton’s American spirit. These watches will make sure that this legendary watch won’t be forgotten in the decades to come.