SeaQ Revives Tradition of Diver’s Watches Made in Glashütte

Timepieces from Glashütte have long been valued around the world for their high-quality mechanics, elaborate finishes and timeless elegance. Since the 19th century, precise timekeepers from Glashütte have also been used as reliable instruments for navigation and for determining one’s position on land, at sea and in the air.
Based on its rich fund of experience and its historic heritage, Glashütte Original now presents a fifth collection after historic marine chronometers, observation watches, pilot and diver’s watches: the “Spezialist”. It is aimed at the fearless man who actively creates his own life. The premiere model in this new collection is the diver’s watch SeaQ, which unites history and modernity in exemplary fashion. The “Spezimatic Type RP TS 200” developed specifically for sports divers, served as an ideal example and inspiration for the new diver’s watch.

The SeaQ is available in two versions: as the SeaQ in both a limited and an unlimited version, and as the SeaQ Panorama Date with black or blue dial.
Fifty years ago, high quality and complex functionality were already key features of Glashütte-made watches. With its limited edition SeaQ 1969, the manufactory takes up this tradition, citing the historic inscription on the black dial and the number of jewels. “Shockproof” refers to the construction of the diver’s watch, renowned even then for its particularly stable design.
The green hands and the “Old Radium” shade of beige on the Arabic numerals and indexes also derive from the historic predecessors. The engravings on the base plate offer decorative enhancement in the form of the trident maritime symbol, the Glashütte Original Double-G and 20 waves, which symbolize the 20 bar water resistance.

The black dial of the unlimited version of the SeaQ presents Arabic numerals, indexes and hands accentuated with the historic “Old Radium” hue. This version also features an engraved base plate.

The SeaQ Panorama Date features the characteristic big date of Glashütte Original, which is harmoniously positioned at 4 o’clock. The dial – optionally either black or blue with a sunray finish – presents the hands, applied Arabic numerals and indexes in green or white, respectively.

Its water resistance up to 20 bar (approx. 20 metres) makes the SeaQ well equipped for changes in pressure underwater, even at greater depths. The second model, the SeaQ Panorama Date, is even water resistant up to 30 bar and therefore perfectly suitable even for professional divers. This essential water resistance of both models is enhanced by numerous details, such as the screw-down crown, the secured base plate on the SeaQ or the screwed sapphire crystal case back on the SeaQ Panorama Date.

As genuine diver’s watches, all versions feature a unidirectional, counter-clockwise rotating bezel with perceptible click, enabling certain determination of the dive time. The SeaQ convinces with a clear minute-detent and the Super-LumiNova coated triangle marking the dive start time. The ceramic inlay makes the bezel surface exceptionally scratch-resistant.
The SeaQ 1969 and the SeaQ are both powered by the manufactory’s automatic movement Calibre 39-11, which features a power resistance of 40 hours, a stop-second mechanism and a date display at 3 o’clock. Glashütte Original has built it into a stainless steel case, 39.5 mm in diameter.

For the SeaQ Panorama Date, the Glashütte watchmakers have successfully adapted the Calibre 36 to meet the challenges of timekeeping underwater. In the 36-13 version, it beats precise and stable, anchored shock-resistant in a 43.2 mm case and with a remarkable power reserve of 100 hours.

The SeaQ 1969 is available in a limited edition of 69 pieces. It comes with two alternative straps: a rubber one and one made from nylon mesh. The SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date is additionally offered with a stainless steel strap.

Corum and the Beauty of Mechanics

In 2013, Corum welcomed a new line to the Admiral family – the Admiral AC-One. Keeping in mind the key design codes of the Admiral collection, the lines of the iconic dodecagonal-shaped case was reworked to become more rounded, and angles less prominent. And titanium became the material of choice for this contemporary reinterpretation. Designed as a robust timepiece to complement luxury offshore boating, the Admiral AC-One 45 is even sportier, bolder and pushes the boundaries of creativity a step further.

The AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic introduces a skeletonized dial. The movement is the calibre CO 297, a new calibre, developed by Corum in-house specifically for this model. The bridges visible on the dial side were designed to be in harmony with the dodecagonal-shaped case, as well as the silhouettes of the nautical parents. A sub-dial displaying small seconds is at the 9 o’clock position, while the power reserve indicator sits at 3 o’clock.
Like the AC-One 45 Squelette, which was introduced in 2014, the architecture of the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic juxtaposes this otherwise rather bulky timepiece with a touch of lightness. But unlike the Squelette which features a completely skeletonized double-date disk, the Openwork Automatic boasts bolder lines and therefore sports a more robust and athletic look.

Corum offers the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic in two different versions. The first, with a titanium case which adds lightness to the overall design and adds a futuristic vibe. The second version pairs contrasting rose gold with black PVD-coated titanium for a more sporty feel.

And for those of you who are looking for a more complicated mechanism, Corum has prepared the AC-One Openwork Tourbillon. It features a tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position (in addition to all the details mentioned above). Technically sophisticated and beautiful to look at.

All watches feature redesigned straps made from rubber on the surface and synthetic textile on the bottom.

Louis Erard und Alain Silberstein present two Limited Editions

Louis Erard watches are introducing a reinterpretation of the brand’s regulator watch in collaboration with the architect and watchmaker Alain Silberstein, available in two editions. This is a double first: in its 90 years of existence, Louis Erard has never given a carte blanche to a designer, while Alain Silberstein had never before designed a regulator watch.

While on the surface it may appear fun and light, this limited edition watch has hidden depth. It reflects the strategy of the Louis Erard brand, more focused than ever on its vocation as an independent watchmaker dedicated to excellence in the making of accessible watches.

The watch’s design starts with the mechanics: the brand’s regulator, an exclusive calibre made for Louis Erard. This complication goes back through the history of watchmaking. Traditionally, the principle of the regulator is to separate the indications of the hours, minutes and seconds in order to improve chronometric precision. This is a pillar of Louis Erard’s timepieces, with the regulator at the heart of its collections since the brand’s relaunch in 2003. The regulator remains more than ever at the centre of the brand’s strategy.
For Alain Silberstein, the regulator is also a technical, aesthetic and philosophical essential. For him, the regulator is the centrepiece, a model for the breaking down of time focused on the central minute hand. It is reduced to the most basic form of an indicator: an arrow. It is large and yellow on the black version, and deep blue on the white version. This minute hand points to simple lines. The rest of the dial features the same geometric simplicity: The hour hand is a large red triangle, while the seconds are indicated by a serpentine hand. The colours follow a similar logic, reduced to the basic spectrum of blue, red and yellow, inspired by the Bauhaus movement. This way, the watches pay tribute to the birthplace of modern design.

All models are powered by an automatic calibre, the ETA Peseux 7001, which is equipped with the Louis Erard RE9 complication. It operates at a frequency of 21,900 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours.

Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein have designed the cases to match the dials. They are made either of stainless steel or black PVD coated stainless steel and water resistant up to 5 atm. Depending on the colour, the watches are equipped with a black or brown calfskin strap.
As mentioned, the watches are limited editions with 178 watches each.

Classic with a Retro Twist: Mathieu Legrand Marin

Swiss watch manufacturer Mathieu Legrand is known for its extraordinary range of models and designs, which suit every taste. And today we introduce a crowd favourite from the current collection, a model with clear references to diving watches, but without actually being one. For those who are looking for a watch that doesn’t only look the part but is really up to the challenge, Mathieu Legrand offers the Immergée, which is designed as a serious tool and comes with a water resistance of 20 atm.

The Mathieu Legrand Marin features a classic, sporty and petty masculine design. The indexes are round except for the ones at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, which are bar-shaped. The date window at 3 o’clock balances the design beautifully. Like the hour, minute and seconds hands, the indices are also equipped with a generous amount of lume, making the watch easily legible, even in the dark. The dial sports various structural details and is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

The stainless steel case features a combination of polished and satin finishes for an appealing look. The classic, slightly curved lugs are pleasantly short, so that the Marin can be comfortably worn also on smaller wrists. The case has a diameter of 42 mm and is waterproof up to 10 atm. As mentioned earlier, the Marin is not a diver’s watch; however with 10 atm, nothing stands in the way of swimming or snorkeling.
Mathieu Legrand has equipped the Marin with a beautifully serrated bezel. It is black in every version but in the blue one; in the latter it matches the dial.

The Mathieu Legrand Marin is powered by a reliable, hard working quartz movement.
The manufacturer has fitted the watches with soft, low-maintenance silicone bracelets. And the large selection of models (we especially love the blue one, but the bright orange one also has a lot of charme) should guarantee a favorite for everyone.

Ulysse Nardin Special Edition for the Monaco Yacht Show

In honor of the most prestigious yacht show in the world, Ulysse Nardin presented a new creation limited to 100 pieces with a Grand Feu enamel dial. It is part of the Marine Torpedo range, which reflects the brand’s maritime and military heritage and its mastery of this time-honoured craft.
This year’s Monaco Yacht Show once again welcomed lovers of magnificent yachts, dream destinations and luxury cruises to Port Hercule. An idyllic setting in which Ulysse Nardin, the main sponsor of the show, presented its latest creation: the Marine Torpillieur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition.
Since its very beginnings, Ulysse Nardin has focused its attention on the nautical world, and this partnership is fully in line with the manufacturer’s maritime heritage.

The new Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition reflects the full savoir-faire of Ulysse Nardin. The watches feature a Grand feu enamel dial. Ulysse Nardin benefits from the unique skills of Donzé Cadrans, who specialise in producing traditional enamel dials. Enamelling on the dial is a historical decoration technique for which there is no official training and which requires a great deal of sensitivity. The term “Grand Feu Enamel” refers to the vitrification of mineral materials. All of this work is carried out by hand and it is not unheard of for the dial to break during the various stages of production, which makes these creations all the more sought after.
For the Monaco Torpedo Marine, a copper base is first dusted with enamel in white and grey and then fired in an oven. In a second step, the indices and inscriptions are applied to the dial, which is then fired again, until the new enamel layer melts with the ensemble.

The dial is fitted a diameter to the case, then the openings of the two added subdials are fit to size. The chamfering and the two subdials is adjusted using a file in order to assemble the parts. The grey dials of the power reserve and the small second are then soldered to the white dial.
The hours are indicated by elongated blue Roman numerals and pear-shaped hands in stainless steel. At six o’clock, on the small seconds subdial, lie the date aperture and the inscriptions “Monaco Yacht Show” and “09.19” in red. The numbers 25, 26, 27 and 28 in red refer to the date of the yacht show.

The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition is powered by the UN-118 manufacture movement. This automatic calibre offers a power reserve of 60 hours (displayed at 12 o’clock).

The Torpedo Marine is perfectly adapted to the modern and urban lifestyle and convinces by its wearing comfort as well as by its aesthetics. The screw-down crown bears the engraved Ulysse Nardin logo.
The timepiece features a blue alligator leather strap with white reinforcement.

MB&F Horological Machine N°9 Flow

In the post-war years of the late 1940s and 1950s, aerodynamic principles were just beginning to take root in the field of automotive design. Curvilinear forms became more prominent, carrying the immediate promise of power and speed. Thereby, designers were guided by their aesthetic sense. The result were automobiles like the Mercedes-Benz W196 and 1948 Buick Streamliner. Other industries followed, notably that of aviation.
And now, MB&F is presenting the Horological Machine N°9 Flow, which is inspired by the dynamic profiles of automotive and aviation mid-century design.

Reminiscent of a jet engine, a highly complex case in alternating polished and satin finishes encloses an equally complex manual winding movement, developed fully in house. Independent twin balance wheels beat at a leisurely 2.5 Hz on each flank of Horological Machine N°9, visible under elongated domes of sapphire crystal. A Third pane of sapphire crystal on the central body reveals the gearbox of the HM9 engine: a planetary differential that averages the output of both balance wheels to provide on stable reading of the time.
Sitting perpendicular to the rest of the HM9 engine is the dial indicating hours and minutes, driven by conical gears that ensure precise engagement even when motion is put through a 90° planar translation. The winding and setting crown is located on the rear of the central body, its deep fluting providing ergonomic grip as well as aesthetic coherence with the overall design.
Two satin-finished air scoops are mounted alongside the pods containing the oscillating balance wheels, evoking the raised vents that allow continuous airflow to high-performance motor engines.

HM9 Flow treads the path first opened by the HM4 Thunderbolt and subsequently by the HM6 Space Pirate, utilising a geometrically complex combination of milled case elements in both sapphire crystal and metal (titanium and red gold). However, HM9 goes beyond its predecessors, redefining what was thought to be possible in case design – illustrated for example by a three-dimensional gasket ensuring water resistance.

Quite naturally, HM9 Flow was therefore declined in two versions, drawing their inspiration from the two main sources: A “Road” version with a speedometer-style dial; an “Air” version with an aviator-style dial.
Both versions are limited to 18 pieces each.

Ocean Star Tribute: Mido Honours its Iconic Collection

Since the 1930s, Mido has been renowned for the ultra-high performance of its timepices’ water-resistance system. Dedicated to the undersea landscape, its Ocean Star collection is the most dazzling symbol of this technology. Launched in 1944, this family epitomises the brand’s watchmaking know-how and is not celebrating the 75th anniversary with the launch of the Ocean Star Tribute.
The Europa Point lighthouse, built to withstand all storms and guide sailors with its powerful beam of light, watches over the Street of Gibraltar. Mido’s Ocean Star collection is designed to embody the safety and reliability of this rugged yet slender structure and to help mankind in its conquest of the seas.

75 years after its first Ocean Star, Mido is launching a special edition series in homage to this iconic collection known since the 1940s for its unfailing water-resistance. These two new Ocean Star Tribute models are a contemporary reinterpretation of the diver’s watches created in the 1960s and provide numerous allusions to these historic novels.

The robust round case in polished stel is enhanced by a unidirectional rotating bezel with an aluminium ring in blue or black depending on the model. Several touches of Super-LumiNova on the bezel, hour-markers and hands ensure perfect readability whatever the diving conditions.
The hour and minute hands are flat diamond-cut, while the seconds hand is varnished in orange, the Mido colour. An aperture at 3 o’clock indicates the day and date. The dials are elegantly protected by a sapphire crystal in Mediterranean blue or deep black.

While this retro design is an emphatic tribute to the brand’s glorious past, the automatic movement that powers both of these Ocean Star Tributes makes these timepieces resolutely contemporary. With the calibre 80, the watches house a movement of the latest generation, a state-of-the-art automatic calibre with a power reserve of 80 hours. It is based on the ETA C07.621 and operates at 21,6000 vibrations per hour.
And the case back has a nice surprise in store: it is decorated with a polished starfish in relief, the historical symbol of Ocean Star. And have we mentioned that the case is water-resistant up to 20 atm?

The flexible, comfortable stainless steel multi-link bracelets gives them the great retro look that made the models successful at the time – even before the look was retro, of course.

For Men and Women: The New Tonda 1950 Lune

Two years after it first appeared, Parmigiani Fleurier is updating the aesthetic of the Tonda 1950 Lune with a model featuring a slate dial and a second design with round diamonds on the bezel. Both showcase the poetry of the “lunar calendar” complication which illuminates their dial with a new layout. Behind this harmony, it is easy to forget the sheer mechanical complexity required to create an ultra-thin self-winding movement with so many time indications.

With a rose gold case matched with a slate colour dial, this Tonda 1950 Lune is the epitome of the classic elegant watch. The lunar calendar, displaying the two hemispheres, is located at 10 o’clock instead of its previous position at 12 o’clock. This offset layout balances the date at 3 o’clock, the logo at 1 o’clock, and the small seconds window at 6 o’clock. All of the time indications are structured to create a pleasingly harmonious dial.

On the other hand, the Tonda 1950 Lune with diamonds features a rose gold case, a mother of pearl dial, a beautiful complement to the light which plays across the stones – a combination which cannot fail to enthral. Additional touches adorn the piece, such as the moon at 10 o’clock which is set in the middle of a starry sky, and the gold outline around the date window at 4 o’clock. Lastly, the dial has been made smaller to accommodate a slightly broader bezel, allowing larger diamonds to be set within it, offering exceptional sparkle and brilliance, unlike any other.

The Tonda 1950 Lune owes its slender proportions to its calibre, the PF708, a mechanism combining precision and reliability with automatic winding thanks to its platinum micro-rotor. Its elements have been carefully arranged o the main plate to ensure the various time indications are harmoniously displayed. As is standard practice at Parmigiani Fleurier, and one of its hallmarks, it boasts hand-applied finishes and bevelled bridges. Its structure is complemented by “Côtes de Genève” decoration.
The automatic movement works at a frequency of 3 Hz and provides a power reserve of 48 hours.

Parmigiani Fleurier delivers the Tonda 1950 Lune with alligator leather straps – black for the men’s models, red and indigo for the women’s models.

Unleashed: The New Urban Warrior from Corum

The Admiral is one of the pillars of Corum’s heritage. Unveiled in 1960, five short years after the brand’s creation, it embodies the Swiss watchmaker’s idea of maritime-inspired watchmaking. Although it has always been loyal to its artistic fibre, it has never been afraid to set sail for distant shores. This year, it gives its Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph a facelift so as to modernise the collection while lending it an urban sportiness.

First introduced into the brand stable as the Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Chronograph in 2013, the masculine-looking watch has always been a combination of power, elegance and performance with a huge dose of inspiration from the sailing world. The new Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph retains the essence of its sporty predecessor except for a few minor tweaks. The 60 hour marker at 12 o’clock has been replaced by the Corum key and brand logo, which have been slightly enlarged. That decision makes the dial less busy and crowded and therefore the chronograph looks sleeker and more contemporary.
For the chronograph display, Corum stuck to the same tri-compax arrangement. But the dial now features a “Grenadier fendu” motif, which is a unique pattern. And instead of monochromatic dials as with the predecessor, The Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph comes with black or white dials with contrasting sub-dials. On the former are white sub-dials framed by either white or rose gold rings, while the latter features black sub-dials encircled with white or rose gold rings.

Corum also reworked the case shape of the Admiral AC-One 45 Chronograph. While it follows strictly the case shape of the legendary Admiral watch, there is a marked difference – the new version features a more angular dodecagonal bezel compared to its predecessor, which boasted more rounded corners. For the new variant, Corum has also included two titanium inserts between the bezel and case so as to offer the option of playing with colours and materials – the possibility of mixing and matching is boundless and something that might be experimented with in the future.
The result lends a more powerful and athletic presence on the wrist, which also makes the watch highly suitable for the rigors of every day wear.

Powering the chronograph is the highly reliable CO 132, a self-winding movement that beats at 4 Hz and boasts 42 hours of power reserve.

While the previous versions were offered with either a rubber strap or metal bracelet, the new Admiral comes with a vulcanised rubber strap. But Corum offers the watch also with either a titanium or rose gold bracelet.

The New TAG Heuer Carrera Lady

Elegant and enduring, the new Carrera Lady timepiece features a design that enhances the entire collection. From bold colours to the improved readability of the dial, the revamped Carrera Lady timepieces deftly combine performance and style. With their feminine flair and understated sophistication, any one of the new models in the Carrera Lady 36 mm collection will make the ideal accessory for the discerning and confident modern urban woman. And who to communicate this better than model, actress and TAG Heuer Brand Ambassador Cara Delevingne.

A glance at the dial reveals refined indexes and hands. The dial is available in white mother-of-pearl, purple, grey, blue and black, and is perfectly legible thanks to its markedly pure design. A seconds scale is printed on the flange around the dial, and is surrounded by either a smooth or diamond-set bezel. A final detail that sets the new Carrera Lady wristwatch apart from their predecessors is the date window at 3 o’clock – the frame boasts an intriguing trapezoidal shape, as opposed to the square shape of the original.

The 36 mm stainless-steel timepieces now feature curved lugs and a water-resistance to 10 bar. TAG Heuer offers three different straps for the new collection: a brushed and polished stainless-steel bracelet, a calfskin strap (in black or blue) or an alligator leather strap with a satin finish (in purple, taupe or grey).
The case size in combination with the automatic movement makes the Carrera collection a modern watch that stands out from the other ladies’ watches of the avant-garde manufacturer. With its 36-mm-diameter, the case is larger than those of the women’s watches that TAG Heuer generally creates, but is ideal for a statement-making piece that is robust yet classy.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Lady is equipped with either a quartz or an automatic movement. The automatic calibre 5 works with a frequency of 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of 38 hours.

The case back of the quartz-powered models is stamped with the TAG Heuer logo and collection name, along with a cross-hatched pattern that serves as a nod to the Carrera line’s motor-racing heritage. Alternatively, the mechanical movement counterparts feature a sapphire case back that provides an unobstructed view of the automatic calibre within.