Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385

Zenith celebrates the rebirth of a legend: The watch manufacturer is bringing back one of the earliest and most emblematic El Primero-equipped chronographs from the earliest days of the revolutionary calibre in the form of a Chronomaster Revival model. So Zenith looks back to the year 1969, a year which brought not only significant changes to the watchmaking world but to the manufacture histelf with the official launch of the El Primero calibre. The debut of the world’s first automatic high-frequency chronograph was celebrated with three distinct steel models. Among them was the A385, a tonneau-shaped steel watch with with an eye-catching gradient dial, which was the first „smoked“ dial ever to be made. And now, after more than 50 years. the A385 is making a brilliant comeback.

The Chronomaster A385 Revival is far more than just a vintage-inspired creation. This watch is an actual reproduction of the original model from the late 1960s. Zenith brought it by „reverse engineering“. Using the original blueprints and production plans, each part of the tonneau-shaped stainless steel case, including the pump-style pushers, is faithful to the original model. The only differences are the domed sapphire crystal instead of an acrylic glass and the display back. The 1969 model came with a solid steel case back which did not allow a view of the spectacular movement behind it. Luckily, these days are over and the new watch now offers an unobstructed view of its El Primero 400 chronograph movement.
The case measures only 37 mm in diameter and is water-resistant to 5 atm.

What made the A385 truly stand was its smoked brown gradient dial with a vignette effect that blackens towards the edges and provides a striking sense of visual depth, as if the dial was domed. For the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith sought to recreate the same warm tones and gradient effect, almost indistinguishable from the original with its red chronograph central second hand and silvery-white chronograph counters. Hours and minutes are displayed centrally, and at 9 o’clock you’ll find the small seconds. The central seconds of the chronograph are complemented by a 10-minute conter at 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock.
Between the indexes at 4 and 5 o’clock Zenith has placed the date window.

The aforementioned El Primero 400 chronograph movement is a powerful automatic movement. It operates at a frequency of 5 Hz and provides a power reserve of more than 50 hours.

Keeping with the retro theme, the Chronomaster A385 Revival is available in two options: the first is the steel ladder bracelet, a modern remake of the Gay Frères bracelets. The second is a light brown calfskin strap.

The Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo

With its newest two watches, Longines looks back to the wild parties of the later 1940s and the carefree spirit of this time. After the harsh war came a time of prosperity and celebration. Elegance was back in fashion; men wore suits and women wore recently-introduced nylon stockings. People got dressed up to go out and dance to the rhythm of jazz bands. And the new Longines Heritage Classic – Tuxedo creations – one with 3 hands and the other featuring a chronograph – are inspired by two historic pieces designed in the spirit of their time.
Collectors have nicknamed the historic watches „Tuxedo“, because the contrast of the black and white on their dials reminds us of the suits worn during the elegant and festive evenings of the time.

To respect the spirit of the original models, Longines has chosen her not to add the word „Automatic“ on the dials. In kepping with the aim to create timepieces as faithful as possible to historical models, there is also no date window on the contemporary models.
The 3-hand model stands out for the aesthetics of the dial, a typical and very popular design from the 1940s. An opaline silver disc surrounded by a sublime matt black circle of thin baton hands covered with Super-LumiNova. The small seconds counter, located at 6 o’clock, is off-centre; this detail contributes to the charm of this 38.5-mm-diameter timepiece housing the exclusive L893.5 automatic movement featuring a silicon balance spring.

The chronograph version displays matt black, opaline and midnight blue, colours as elegant as they are refined. Several zones feature on its dial, and a tachymetric sclae – quite rare for a Longines watch – also enriches its circumference, just like on the original model. The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph – Tuxedo houses in its 40-mm-case the calibre L895.5, a movement developed exclusively for Longines Heritage timepieces.

Both Longines Heritage Classic – Tuxedo watches are presented on semi-matt black leather straps, perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the late 1940s.

Ocean Star Tribute: Mido Honours its Iconic Collection

Since the 1930s, Mido has been renowned for the ultra-high performance of its timepices‘ water-resistance system. Dedicated to the undersea landscape, its Ocean Star collection is the most dazzling symbol of this technology. Launched in 1944, this family epitomises the brand’s watchmaking know-how and is not celebrating the 75th anniversary with the launch of the Ocean Star Tribute.
The Europa Point lighthouse, built to withstand all storms and guide sailors with its powerful beam of light, watches over the Street of Gibraltar. Mido’s Ocean Star collection is designed to embody the safety and reliability of this rugged yet slender structure and to help mankind in its conquest of the seas.

75 years after its first Ocean Star, Mido is launching a special edition series in homage to this iconic collection known since the 1940s for its unfailing water-resistance. These two new Ocean Star Tribute models are a contemporary reinterpretation of the diver’s watches created in the 1960s and provide numerous allusions to these historic novels.

The robust round case in polished stel is enhanced by a unidirectional rotating bezel with an aluminium ring in blue or black depending on the model. Several touches of Super-LumiNova on the bezel, hour-markers and hands ensure perfect readability whatever the diving conditions.
The hour and minute hands are flat diamond-cut, while the seconds hand is varnished in orange, the Mido colour. An aperture at 3 o’clock indicates the day and date. The dials are elegantly protected by a sapphire crystal in Mediterranean blue or deep black.

While this retro design is an emphatic tribute to the brand’s glorious past, the automatic movement that powers both of these Ocean Star Tributes makes these timepieces resolutely contemporary. With the calibre 80, the watches house a movement of the latest generation, a state-of-the-art automatic calibre with a power reserve of 80 hours. It is based on the ETA C07.621 and operates at 21,6000 vibrations per hour.
And the case back has a nice surprise in store: it is decorated with a polished starfish in relief, the historical symbol of Ocean Star. And have we mentioned that the case is water-resistant up to 20 atm?

The flexible, comfortable stainless steel multi-link bracelets gives them the great retro look that made the models successful at the time – even before the look was retro, of course.

Tudor Heritage Chrono and Chrono Blue

In the saga of Tudor historic chronographs, the reference 7169 happens to be an icon. Since its launch in 1973 it has been produced in a number of different versions, one of the most fascinating features distinctive touches of blue, grey and orange. It was produced for only a few years. We’re going to look at its new interpretation, the Heritage Chrono Blue, as well as at its black brother. Both watches share exactly the same characteristics just differing in their appearance.

Tudor’s approach to the design of these two chronographs was exactly the same as for all the watches in the Heritage line since 2010. Far from being merely a new version, these two watches are a reinterpretation in which past, present and future converge in both time and style. While all the aesthetic codes that contributed to the recognition of the historic models remain – a synthesis of the original spirit of the timepieces and a faithful reproduction of their key characteristics – Tudor’s Style Workshop has added modern touches to update the iconic spirit of these watches and endow them with a timeless strength.

The Tudor Heritage Chrono and Heritage Chrono Blue mirror the original shape and proportions of the middle cases, bezels, lugs and bracelets of the 1970s models. Only a closer look reveals a series of new design details. The bevelled and polished edges of the lugs, the stylized shoulders to protect the crown, and the knurled edge of the bidirectional rotatable bezel (featuring a black or blue aluminium insert and providing a second time zone) and of the pushers that flank a knurled crown to improve grip.
With measuring 42 mm in diameter, the stainless steel-cases are keeping up with the dimensions of today’s chronographs. They also boast a water-resistance of 150 metres.

The dials are enhanced with orange details and feature 3D applique hour markers with bevelled edges and Super-LumiNova to enhance legibility. They also feature two counters located inside two trapezoidal shapes, one at 3 o’clock for the small second’s hand, and one at 9 o’clock for the 45-minute counters, reiterating the one of the 1970s.
At 6 o’clock, Tudor placed a small date window.

The Tudor Heritage Chrono watches are powered by the calibre 2892. The self-winding mechanical movement provides a power-reserve of 42 hours.
The Tudor Heritage Chrono and Heritage Chrono Blue come with both a three-link steel bracelet as well as a black, grey and orange or blue, white orange fabric strap.

Retro: The Hamilton Ventura 60th Anniversary Edition

This year, Hamilton celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Ventura. It’s the perfect opportunity to woo us with an anniversary edition, containing no less than three interpretations of the classic wristwatch.
The original Ventura was introduced in 1957 and with its extravagant looks it found fans fast. Like the King of Rock’n’Roll for example, who wore a Ventura in his movie „Blue Hawaii“. But the Ventura was not only beautiful, moreover it was the first watch powered by a then revolutionary electric caliber.

The new Ventura Class and the Ventura Elvis Skeleton are the backbone of the new remarkable trio by capturing the unconventional case design of its predecessor. The dials of the Ventura Classic with their large symbol for electricity remind of the pioneering feat, the world’s first electric wristwatch achieved.
Within this trilogy past and present join up in the form of a celebration watch with yellow gold PVD stainless steel case. In an additional flash of acknowledgement to Ventura’s illustrious past, a brown lizard-patterned leather strap, white dial with golden hour markers and hands and flash of red at the tip of the second hand provide an unmistakable touch of vintage elegance.

For the next version Hamilton has opted for a jeans design. Not only the strap is made from this fabric but the dial wears a 3D printed jeans-pattern.
The third Ventura comes with an unconventional skeletonized dial which is meant to remind of Elvis’s microphone. The cut-outs provide an insight into the automatic movement beneath. For this watch the customer can choose between a stainless steel bracelet or a caoutchouc one.

All cases come with a charming retro look – although the one of the Hamilton Ventura Elvis Skeleton is a little more modern – and are water resistant up to 5 bar. The Elvis Ventura measures 42.5 x 44.6 mm, the other two versions come in two different sizes: 24 x 36.5 mm or 32.3 x 50.3 mm.

Whether past, present or future – every version of the Ventura honors the heritage of the collection as well as Hamilton’s American spirit. These watches will make sure that this legendary watch won’t be forgotten in the decades to come.

Return of an Icon: TAG Heuer Autavia

The legendary driver’s chronograph from the Sixties, the Autavia, is making a comeback in 2017. A contraction of the words „automobile“ and „aviation“, its name is synonymous with its rotating bezel, its large snailed counters and the black and white dial. Created in 1962, this iconic model celebrates its 55th anniversary in the form of a neo-retro successor featuring updated functions and a proprietary movement – so what’s not to like?

Modern yet faithful to its roots, the new generation Autavia channels the spirit of the golden age of motor racing. As innovative as the original, this contemporary model is the result of an interactive campaign called the „Autavia Cup“, run in 2016.

The Autavia was the first wrist chronograph with a rotating bezel designed by Jack Heuer. This watch was worn by the best-known racing drivers of the 1960s and 1970s, including Mario Andretti and Jochen Rindt. The version worn by Rindt was the inspiration for the new Autavia, TAG Heuer presents this year.
The Autavia is synonymous with a rotating bezel, the large snailed counters and the exemmplary legibility of its black and white. The diameter of the stainless steel case was increased from 39 to 42 mm and it also comes with a higher water-resistance of 100 metres.

 

The Autavia is powered by a in-house chronograph movement, the calibre Heuer 02. Its functions are tailored to modern requirements: a self-winding calibre, power reserve of 80 hours, date at 6 o’clock and a water resistance to 100 metres.
„Mushroom“ push-pieces, a ridged crown, the Heuer logo and a distressed calfskin leather strap add to a vintage feel. Like the patina of a vintage watch, the luminescent coating has a beige tint, in harmony with the strap stitching. The studied neo-retro style encompasses the minute track subdivisions, employing the 1/3-2/3 ergonomic rule of the era created to enhance legibility and accuracy.

This bold watch combines a retro look with modern elements – unique, classy and beautiful.

Glashütte Original Presents the New Sixties Collection

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Following the inaugural presentation of the Sixties Iconic Collection in 2015, Glashütte Original takes its tribute to iconic ’60s design to a new level. In parallel with the 67th Berlinale, the German watchmaker introduces a special collection of five square chronographs featuring distinctive dials: The Glashütte Sixties Iconic Square Collection.
Dynamic, distinctive, unforgettable – the 1960s made their mark with inspirational design in watchmaking, furniture, fashion and beyond, with geometric forms and innovative, colourful visuals. In the mid-sixties, Glashütte’s watchmakers launched the Spezimatic in a series of versions destined to become lasting icons of style. And now the popular design elements of the time like the square cushion shape, domed dials, curved hands, idiosyncratic Arabic numerals, inspired the Sixties Iconic Square Collection.

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The dials are made by the Saxon manufacture’s own dialmakers in Pforzheim, Germany. The stunning colours and dial visuals take up iconic design elements first presented in a range of „Spezimatic“ models produced in the 1960s. Manufacturing these dials is a complex and time-consuming process and the dialmakers from Glashütte Original use original tools and authentic methods from the 1960s while paying obsessive attention to each of the steps. The application of coloured lacquers achieves precise hues and shading, from light centres to dark perimeters, known as the „dégradé effect“ – a finish found on every piece. The dials are given a galvanic base coat; layers of coloured lacquer are then added by hand in a series of subsequent steps and then, in a final step, black lacquer is carefully applied using a special spray gun. This technique produces an individual colour gradient on each dial.
Five colours give the models their names: Sixties Iconic Forest, Sixties Iconic Ocean, Sixties Iconic Graphite, Sixties Iconic Tangerine and Sixties Iconic Fire. Four of the five models are combined with a sunburst finish, while the fifth model, the Sixties Iconic Graphite, features an elaborate imprint instead.
The dials are protected by a sapphire crystal.

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Every watch is powered by the manufacture automatic Calibre 39-34 chronograph, featuring central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds as well as a small second and a 30-minute counter. The movement works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a 40 hour power-reserve.
The five models also feature a distinctive square cushion shaped stainless steel case, measuring 41,35 x 41,35 mm and providing a water-resistance of 3 bar.

25 sets of the Sixties Iconic Square Collection will be available in Glashütte Original Boutiques and selected retailers worldwide.

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Hindenberg Retrograde – i like retro!

I admit! I’m not only a fashion victim but also a victim of the retro-wave. I’m attracted to everything that screams vintage and retro. Therefore, it’s not surprising that I’m also very attracted to the new Hindenberg Retrograde.

The Hindenberg Retrograde is retro in two different aspects. The design is doubtlessly retro. The oversized numbers on the dial, the dark brown real leather wristband, the matted stainless steel – design elements that take me back to bygone times.

But there is also another reason why the Hindenberg Retrograde is so retro – retrograde more specifically. Retrograde means anti-clockwise. Of course the Hindenburg Retrograde doesn’t let the time run backwards but it uses a  time-display feature that was very popular in former times. Both second hands are so to say marching to a different tune. After the first second hand counted the first 30 seconds backwards it is set back 0 and then the other second hand starts to count the next 30 seconds.

This feature was already used in the year 1650 by a watchmaker called Hans Buschman who used it for his pocket watches.

I really like that this feature is still used.

retrogradeData Sheet: 

  • model no: 180-H
  • stainless steel watch case (316L)
  • real leather wristband
  • automatic movement Hindenberg Kaliber H-09.180
  • 20 stones
  • scratch-proof sapphire glass
  • flying second
  • blued screws
  • diameter without crown: 45 mm
  • height watch case: 14 mm
  • 5 ATM waterproof
  • weight 106g incl. wristband
  • Limited Edition – limited to  3750 pieces
  • recommended retail price:  1190 €

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