Schlagwort-Archive: perpetual calendar

A New Aesthetic for the Perpetual Calendar from Montblanc

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Montblanc just unveiled its new Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100. This watch features vintage aesthetics, being inspired by historical Minerva wristwatches from the 1940s and ’50s, and a beautiful rose gold case.
Invented in the 18th century, the perpetual calendar complication is a highly complex mechanism that automatically takes the number of days in the month, as well as the cycle of leap years, into account. This way, the perpetual calendar automatically corrects itself for short month, including the 29th of February in leap years. This way, as long as a watch with a perpetual calendar is kept running, it won’t require any manual adjustment for decades. To achieve this, the functions draw on a technical memory of 1460 days, representing four years. To this day, the perpetual calendar continues to fascinate and delight watch enthusiasts, making it a very popular complication.

The Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100 indicates the hours, minutes, day, date, month, moonphase, and leap year – and is still a very legible watch. This is due to the large subdials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. And the new aesthetic, featuring a brown colour scheme, suits this watch extremely well. The sapphire crystal class box continues the elegant vintage look of this watch.
In line with the design codes of the Heritage line, the Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100 comes in a 40 mm rose gold case with curved horns. It is water-resistant up to 5 atm.

This watch is powered by the in-house calibre MB 29.22. This movement with its perpetual calendar complication took Montblanc three years to develop and was introduced two years ago. The calibre comprises 378 components of which 259 are dedicated to the perpetual calendar function. The mechanism allows the user to adjust the watch via the crown in both directions, which is unusual. Also, Montblanc has built in a safety feature, that prevents any setting between the hours of 6 pm and 12 pm, when any manipulation could potentially (and very likely) damage the movement. The movement works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power-reserve of approximately 48 hours.

The Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100 is equipped with a brown alligator leather strap, which completes the overall design nicely.

The MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evolution

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Over the past 15 years, MB&F creations have transported their wearers to destinations that exist only on maps of the imagination: from star-cruisers to deep-sea jellyfish, Maximilian Büsser’s Machines are the mechanical cartographers of the multiverse. With the new Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, this year the Manufacture is undertaking the greatest journey yet – that of evolution. With this watch, you can become a navigator and explore the map of your own life.
In terms of combining prestige, tradition and innovation, Legacy Machine Perpetual has remained at the apex of MB&F watchmaking savoir-faire since it was introduced five years ago.

MB&F has built the LM Perpetual Evolution into a 44 mm zirconium case. This lustrous silvery-grey metals‘ material properties are surpassing those of stainless steel and aluminium. Nevertheless, zirconium is rarely used in watchmaking. The material is known to spontaneously ignite in powdered form, making it dangerous to machine.
The new profile emphasises openness and extreme clarity and a specially developed monobloc shock-absorbing system – the FlexRing – makes for the most robust Machine ever to emerge from MB&F. In this design, MB&F has eliminated the bezel and fused the domed sapphire crystal directly to the case. New geometries had to be calculated, achieving the mechanically opposing aims of maintaining structural strength and decreasing ist height-to-diameter ratio.
The previously circular pushers have been enlarged into double-sprung oblong actuators, boosting the tactile comfort and ease of adjustment. And for the first time in any MB&F creation, the LM Perpetual EVO is rated at 80m of water restistance, enabled by its screw-down crown.

The increased openness of this design highlights the equilibrium between the legibility of LM Perpetual EVO’s calendar indications and the cinematic play of the engine components – surmounted by the iconic MB&F hovering balance wheel.
The three color variants of the coated dial include an atomic orange. Although dark shades of PVD and CVD coating have been used for years in watchmaking, with colours toward the cooler end of the visible light spectrum becoming more common recently, warmer hues such as yellow, orange and red have always remained unattainable. A combination of technical innovations in the areas of coating material and technique allows this Legacy Machine to don an outrageous orange. Blue and black versions are also available.

The LM Perpetual Engine, designed in 2015, features a perpetual calendar that replaces traditional constructions with an innovative mechanical processor consisting of a series of superimposed disks. It takes the default number of days in the month at 28 and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month. This ensures that each month has exactly the right number of days, and removes the possibility of the date jumping incorrectly. And where, in other watches, exists the very real risk of damage by pressing the pushers during the date changeover, this one comes with an inbuilt safety feature. It disconnets the quickset pushers during the date changeover, so that the movement cannot be damaged.

A closely-fitted, integrated strap provides the smoothest wearing experience of any MB&F Machine ever.
Each of the three colours is produced in a limited series of 15 pieces – celebrating the brand’s 15th anniversary.

A New Tourbillon with Perpetual Calendar by Frederique Constant

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Following the success of last year’s Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture, Frederique Constant now presents two new limited editions of the timepiece. Both versions feature a classic navy blue skeletonized dial and a case in either pink gold or stainless steel.
The occasion for these new watches is the opening of the new Manufacture building in Plan-les-ouates in the Swiss canton of Geneva.

The case of the Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture consists of three parts and measures 42 mm in diameter.
The silver-coloured skeletonized dials are equipped with navy blue sub-dials and an outer ring in the same colour, giving the wearer a deep insight into the complex mechanics.
The watch’s perpetual calendar displays an annual calendar, the day of the week, the date and the month, with a minimum of corrections. The complication takes into account the number of days of each month, displays the year and does not need to be corrected even in leap years. Normally, the Perpetual Calendar would work for 400 years without a manual correction; only due to one exception of the Gregorian calendar, the complication has to be corrected on March 1, 2100.
The hour and minute functions are adjusted via the crown. At 12 o’clock the dial shows the months and leap year, at 3 o’clock the date and at 9 o’clock the days of the week. The tourbillon cage with its integrated second hand, which makes a complete turn every minute, is at 6 o’clock.

The Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture is driven by the FC-975 calibre. The automatic manufacture movement was equipped by Frederique Constant with a silicon anchor and escape wheel for greater precision. The use of silicon eliminates the problems caused by the effects of earth gravity when the movement is in a vertical position. In addition, the material is insensitive to temperature fluctuations.
Both versions come with a transparent case back through which the perlage and Geneva stripes of the movement can be admired.

Frederique Constant supplies the Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture with an alligator leather strap that resumes the blue colour used in the subsidiary dials and outer ring.

L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac

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Pursuing its longstanding involvement in celebrating life’s finest milestones as well as honoring traditional Chinese arts, Chopard is taking things to a new level with an extraordinary new one-off creation: the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac. Chopard has created an entirely hand-engraved rose gold case depicting the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac.

With this timepiece, Chopard is further extending the approach that has driven the manufacture to create a yearly edition of the L.U.C XP Urushi. This year, the entire Chinese zodiac is portrayed on the case middle of this stylised unique piece, with a black patina coating adorning rose gold. The 12 signs are individually represented using the champlevé engraving technique where little cavities are hollowed out before being filled with black patina. Of course, the 12 animals are ordered chronologically, symbolising the Chinese calendar. The tiger’s head is perched on the crown while his body fits the case. A dragon and a snake are coiled between the lugs.

The case houses a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and an over one-week power reserve ensured by the four barrels of the Quattro system of the L.U.C claibre 02.15-L. The perpetual calendar  is indicating the complete date while taking account of the variable durations of the months, including leap years.The tourbillon sits enthroned at 6 o’clock on the dial, topped by a polished and blackened steel bridge. By constantly spinning on its axis, it releases the rate of the watch from the influence of gravity.
The solid gold dial of the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac is adorned with a hand-engraved motif inspired by traditional Chinese iconography and also featured on the bezel and the buckle.

We’re sorry to say, that the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac is a limited edition of one piece. It will be the object of an exclusive presentation to Asian collectors at a private exhibition in Beijing.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel

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H. Moser & Cie. is a small, independent Swiss watchmaker, only producing about 1,200 watches every year. Many of you will possibly know H. Moser & Cie. because of its watches featuring a perpetual calendar.
The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar was first introduced by Moser in 2015, first only in a pink gold version. Now the manufacturer has presented a version in steel with a striking midnight-blue dial. But this is not the first perpetual calendar watch H. Moser & Cie. produced in a steel version – this would be the Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue Dial. With the new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar there’s once more a deep-blue dial, but in this watch the case is bolder.

The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel features a magnificent midnight-blue fumé dial. The luminescent dots on the flange and the hands filled with Super-LumiNova allow the display to be read at any time of the day.
Many manufacturers lean on complicated dials for watches featuring a perpetual calendar – H. Moser & Cie. does nothing of that sort. The dial is simple, clean and absolutely easy to read. With this decision Moser stays true to its philosophy and the previous models of this watch.
The perpetual calendar consists of two different displays. At 3 o’clock you will find a normal date window. And then there’s a small central hand which indicates the months. 1 o’clock symbolises January, 2 o’clock February and so on. The leap year-display is placed on the bottom of the watch, visible through the sapphire case back.
Apart from that you will also find a small second at 6 o’clock as well as a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. It is quite important to not lose sight of the latter because it can be a hassle to newly adjust a perpetual calendar. We would recommend to avoid that – and keep the movement wound.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in steel is powered by the HMC 800 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement. It provides a power reserve of at least seven days (or 168 hours), works at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and features a double barrel.
The movement is housed in a steel case with 42.8mm in diameter and 11.3mm in height. And: with this handsome watch you can also go scuba diving – the case is water-resistant up to 120 metres.
For the strap, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen black alligator leather.

Bolder, suited for everyday-wear and thanks to the steel case a little more affordable – with this watch H. Moser & Cie. created a beautiful timepiece many will want to have in their collection.

A Fresh Interpretation of a Legendary Timepiece by Vacheron Constantin

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Vacheron_Constantin_Traditionelle_EwigerKalender_1Vacheron Constantin has introduced a whole range of new models at this year’s SIHH. We cannot cover them all, but we just have to introduce the new interpretation of one of the manufacture’s most iconic timepieces: the Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar.

The Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is one of the best-known models within Vacheron Constantin’s collection. The new version is available in platinum and pink gold and it combines two key complications – the chronograph and the perpetual calendar – and is powered by the new calibre 1142 QP. This watch leaves nothing to be desired.
The case hasn’t changed, it is still classically round and stepped while bearing the distinctive fluted pattern on its back.

Vacheron_Constantin_Traditionelle_EwigerKalender_3The dial is characterized by the dauphine-style hands and the railway-typed minute track. A white or black tachymeter scale surrounding the dial accentuates the technical nature of the watch.
Exemplifying a concern for legibility, the dial features various shades of grey with finishes that differ according to the functions, reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs. Standing out against a slate- or silver-coloured opaline base, the small seconds and chronograph minutes counters are distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed centre.
The white or pink gold moon disc is hand-finished. Positioned in the centre of the date counter, it provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholy, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite. This is a nod to historical pocket watches.

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The sophisticated aesthetic approach is matched by the technical evolution embodied in the movement of the Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. The 1141 QP is replaced by the 1142 QP, a state-of-the-art movement entirely designed and developed within the Vacheron Constantin manufacture. The new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions – with indications of the days, date, months, leap years and moon phases – as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. This watch will be able to keep track of all the vagaries of the calendar without any need for adjustments until March 1st 2100.
With the development of this new caliber, the watchmakers and developers have been attentive to the energy constraints relating to the chronograph functions, in order to minimize their impact on the 48-hour power reserve.  The oscillation frequency of the balance has also ben raised from 2.5 Hz to 3 Hz so as to increase reliability and shock resistance.
The Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar comes with a sapphire crystal caseback to allow a glance on the movement.

The chronograph comes with a leather bracelet.

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch

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The 2016 Pilot’s Watch collection from IWC Schaffhausen offers a wide, balanced range of Pilot’s Watches stretching from the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 48 and Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55 to the Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII and the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36. And the new Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph is the perfect world time watch for frequent travellers.

But we are taking a closer look at the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition „Antoine de Saint Exupéry“ (Ref. IW503801). With this watch the German watch manufacturer pays tribute to the extraordinary life’s work of a great humanist and aviation pioneer. With the tobacco brown dial and a calfskin strap, both of which call to mind Saint-Exupéry’s flying suit, IWC’s designers have ensured that this watch too, is outstanding and instantly recognizable. Since the beginning of the partnership between IWC Schaffhausen and the Fondation Antoine de Saint-Exupéry in 2005, these colours established themselves as the hallmarks of the „Antoine de Saint-Exupéry“ editions.
Watches always played an important role in the life of aviation pioneer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.
At the same time, the name of the watch stands for good causes, since a part of the proceeds from sales goes to the foundation and its partner organizations.

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The watch is packed with technical features. The perpetual calendar shows not only the lunar cycles but also the seconds, minutes, hours, date, day, month and year in four digits. Mechanically programmed, all the displays are automatically advanced and will take into account different month lengths and all the leap days in the Gregorian calendar until 2100, without the need for a single correction. Not until 1st of March 2100 a watchmaker will need to adjust the calendar manually.
This is the first time that the IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre movement from the new 52000 family has been used in a Pilot’s Watch. Twin barrels supply the power needed to provide 7 days‘ running time and to drive the additional functions and displays.

The polished bezel underscores the singular quality of the watch as much as the sun-pattern finish on the dial does. The cone-shaped crown is reminiscent of the pioneering age of aviation. The rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and the indices are coated with luminescent material, while the red-tipped date, day and month hands recall cockpit instruments. The power reserve display, which is combined with the date display at 3 o’clock on the dial, slowly counter clockwise from 1 to 7, indicating that the movement is fully wound. A glance through the transparent sapphire-glass back reveals the movement’s design.
The 46-millimetre stainless-steel case is water-resistant to 6 bar and the glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition „Antoine de Saint Exupéry“ features the brown Santoni calfskin strap with the eye-catching seams and thus recalls, once again, Saint Exupéry’s flying suit.
This watch comes as a limited edition with just 750 pieces made.