H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel

H. Moser & Cie. is a small, independent Swiss watchmaker, only producing about 1,200 watches every year. Many of you will possibly know H. Moser & Cie. because of its watches featuring a perpetual calendar.
The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar was first introduced by Moser in 2015, first only in a pink gold version. Now the manufacturer has presented a version in steel with a striking midnight-blue dial. But this is not the first perpetual calendar watch H. Moser & Cie. produced in a steel version – this would be the Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue Dial. With the new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar there’s once more a deep-blue dial, but in this watch the case is bolder.

The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in Steel features a magnificent midnight-blue fumé dial. The luminescent dots on the flange and the hands filled with Super-LumiNova allow the display to be read at any time of the day.
Many manufacturers lean on complicated dials for watches featuring a perpetual calendar – H. Moser & Cie. does nothing of that sort. The dial is simple, clean and absolutely easy to read. With this decision Moser stays true to its philosophy and the previous models of this watch.
The perpetual calendar consists of two different displays. At 3 o’clock you will find a normal date window. And then there’s a small central hand which indicates the months. 1 o’clock symbolises January, 2 o’clock February and so on. The leap year-display is placed on the bottom of the watch, visible through the sapphire case back.
Apart from that you will also find a small second at 6 o’clock as well as a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. It is quite important to not lose sight of the latter because it can be a hassle to newly adjust a perpetual calendar. We would recommend to avoid that – and keep the movement wound.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in steel is powered by the HMC 800 calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement. It provides a power reserve of at least seven days (or 168 hours), works at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and features a double barrel.
The movement is housed in a steel case with 42.8mm in diameter and 11.3mm in height. And: with this handsome watch you can also go scuba diving – the case is water-resistant up to 120 metres.
For the strap, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen black alligator leather.

Bolder, suited for everyday-wear and thanks to the steel case a little more affordable – with this watch H. Moser & Cie. created a beautiful timepiece many will want to have in their collection.

A Fresh Interpretation of a Legendary Timepiece by Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron_Constantin_Traditionelle_EwigerKalender_1Vacheron Constantin has introduced a whole range of new models at this year’s SIHH. We cannot cover them all, but we just have to introduce the new interpretation of one of the manufacture’s most iconic timepieces: the Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar.

The Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is one of the best-known models within Vacheron Constantin’s collection. The new version is available in platinum and pink gold and it combines two key complications – the chronograph and the perpetual calendar – and is powered by the new calibre 1142 QP. This watch leaves nothing to be desired.
The case hasn’t changed, it is still classically round and stepped while bearing the distinctive fluted pattern on its back.

Vacheron_Constantin_Traditionelle_EwigerKalender_3The dial is characterized by the dauphine-style hands and the railway-typed minute track. A white or black tachymeter scale surrounding the dial accentuates the technical nature of the watch.
Exemplifying a concern for legibility, the dial features various shades of grey with finishes that differ according to the functions, reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs. Standing out against a slate- or silver-coloured opaline base, the small seconds and chronograph minutes counters are distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed centre.
The white or pink gold moon disc is hand-finished. Positioned in the centre of the date counter, it provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholy, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite. This is a nod to historical pocket watches.

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The sophisticated aesthetic approach is matched by the technical evolution embodied in the movement of the Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. The 1141 QP is replaced by the 1142 QP, a state-of-the-art movement entirely designed and developed within the Vacheron Constantin manufacture. The new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions – with indications of the days, date, months, leap years and moon phases – as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. This watch will be able to keep track of all the vagaries of the calendar without any need for adjustments until March 1st 2100.
With the development of this new caliber, the watchmakers and developers have been attentive to the energy constraints relating to the chronograph functions, in order to minimize their impact on the 48-hour power reserve.  The oscillation frequency of the balance has also ben raised from 2.5 Hz to 3 Hz so as to increase reliability and shock resistance.
The Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar comes with a sapphire crystal caseback to allow a glance on the movement.

The chronograph comes with a leather bracelet.

IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch

The 2016 Pilot’s Watch collection from IWC Schaffhausen offers a wide, balanced range of Pilot’s Watches stretching from the Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 48 and Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 55 to the Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII and the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36. And the new Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph is the perfect world time watch for frequent travellers.

But we are taking a closer look at the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Antoine de Saint Exupéry” (Ref. IW503801). With this watch the German watch manufacturer pays tribute to the extraordinary life’s work of a great humanist and aviation pioneer. With the tobacco brown dial and a calfskin strap, both of which call to mind Saint-Exupéry’s flying suit, IWC’s designers have ensured that this watch too, is outstanding and instantly recognizable. Since the beginning of the partnership between IWC Schaffhausen and the Fondation Antoine de Saint-Exupéry in 2005, these colours established themselves as the hallmarks of the “Antoine de Saint-Exupéry” editions.
Watches always played an important role in the life of aviation pioneer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.
At the same time, the name of the watch stands for good causes, since a part of the proceeds from sales goes to the foundation and its partner organizations.

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The watch is packed with technical features. The perpetual calendar shows not only the lunar cycles but also the seconds, minutes, hours, date, day, month and year in four digits. Mechanically programmed, all the displays are automatically advanced and will take into account different month lengths and all the leap days in the Gregorian calendar until 2100, without the need for a single correction. Not until 1st of March 2100 a watchmaker will need to adjust the calendar manually.
This is the first time that the IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre movement from the new 52000 family has been used in a Pilot’s Watch. Twin barrels supply the power needed to provide 7 days’ running time and to drive the additional functions and displays.

The polished bezel underscores the singular quality of the watch as much as the sun-pattern finish on the dial does. The cone-shaped crown is reminiscent of the pioneering age of aviation. The rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and the indices are coated with luminescent material, while the red-tipped date, day and month hands recall cockpit instruments. The power reserve display, which is combined with the date display at 3 o’clock on the dial, slowly counter clockwise from 1 to 7, indicating that the movement is fully wound. A glance through the transparent sapphire-glass back reveals the movement’s design.
The 46-millimetre stainless-steel case is water-resistant to 6 bar and the glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Edition “Antoine de Saint Exupéry” features the brown Santoni calfskin strap with the eye-catching seams and thus recalls, once again, Saint Exupéry’s flying suit.
This watch comes as a limited edition with just 750 pieces made.