Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear

The Regulator was the first stand-alone model in the history of Chronoswiss and in subsequent years, it quickly became the brand’s central motif and standard bearer. It is therefore only logical that the design team pays special attention to the Regulator on its 30th birthday, which is also the 35th anniversary of Chronoswiss itself. Following the 3D dials and skeletonizations of recent years, the manufacturer is now introducing the Flying Regulator Open Gear, a model which provides unexpected insights.

To produce a Regulator, a modification of the movement is necessary. Normally, it is hidden from prying eyes underneath the dial. But in this new version it has not only been made visible but also showcased as a central design element, hence the name “Open Gear”.
Its dial is simultaneously its module board, onto which the train wheel bridges of the skeletonized gears are mounted. These move on four ruby bearings, generating the least possible friction. The train wheel bridges have also been skeletonized and boast carefully angled and polished edges. Six screws keep them reliably in their intended place on the dial. This is how functional design is done.
At 6 o’clock on the dial, the Flying Regulator Open Gear reveals an exciting insight. The dial and the bridge have been skeletonized at the height of the small second so that you can see the second wheel in action. As the associated seconds scale – just like the display at 12 o’clock – floats above the dial on a funnel-like display, the gaze is virtually drawn towards the inner workings and to the seconds wheel, designed to look like a rotary dial.
Super-LumiNova inlays on the hands and indexes ensure best legibility, even in the dark.

Chronoswiss offers the timepiece in four different color combinations: in purist stainless steel with dials in galvanic blue, black or silver, or timeless elegant in a red gold case with a galvanic silver dial.

The Flying Regulator Open Gear is a pure Chronoswiss development – from the design to the dial module.
This watch will only be available as a limited edition.

Hublot Big Bang Depeche Mode “The Singles” Limited Edition

Hublot and Depeche Mode are releasing a collector’s edition series of 55 unique Big Bang watches, inspired by each of the band’s 55 singles. All net proceeds from the sale will benefit charity: water. Hublot and Depeche Mode work together since 2010 – always for the benefit of the NGO.
One of the most influential, beloved and best-selling musical acts of all time, Depeche Mode have sold over 100 million records worldwide and have played to more than 30 million fans since their formation in 1981. And, in their 37-year career, Depeche Mode have released an incredible 55 singles, from “Dreaming of Me” in 1981 to last year’s release of “Cover Me”.
In tribute to this achievement, the Swiss watchmaker Hublot introduces a collection of 55 unique pieces of its Big Bang Unico Model. “We are greatly honoured and moved by Hublot’s support of charity: water with this new collection of watches commemorating all of our singles,” says Martin Gore, Depeche Mode’s main songwriter and founding member. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, is also thrilled about the collaboration: “Depeche Mode are iconic in the history of contemporary music. We identify with their passion, stronger now than ever, and with their constantly growing creativity. We are lucky enough to share many values with them, including the commitment to the activities of the charity: water NGO.”

As previously mentioned are all 55 models unique pieces, basing on Hublot’s Big Bang. Each of the watches features, on its dial, a disc that partially shows the image of the record cover it represents, which is reminiscent of the very first model produced by the partnership between Hublot and Depeche Mode. The back of each watch features the entire cover of the single as well as the charity: water logo.
The case has a diameter of 45 mm and is made from polished black ceramic. They are water resistant up to 10 atm.
All  Big Bang Depeche Mode “The Singles” watches are powered by UNICO movements. Produced by the Hublot manufacture. The automatic calibre HUB1242 is a flyback self-winding movement chronograph; it works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

Jedes Modell ist mit einem Armband in einer speziellen Farbe ausgestattet.
Die Kollektion ist mit dem UNICO Werk aus Hublots eigener Manufaktur ausgestattet. Das Kaliber HUB1242 ist ein Automatikwerk mit Flyback-Chronograph und bietet eine Gangreserve von 72 Stunden. Es arbeitet mit 4 Hz oder 28.800 Halbschwingungen pro Stunde.

Each piece will be fitted with a strap in a colour specific to each model, completed with cuff straps in the same hue, and rock-and-roll inspired rubber studs.
A Roland JP-08 synthesiser will accompany each timepiece.  The Roland JP-08 is a limited-edition synth module from the Roland Boutique series, paying homage to the legendary Roland Jupiter 8 synth, used by Depeche Mode throughout the years.

Retrograde Shock Waves in the UR-210 Black Platinum

Urwerk, widely known for its unusual watches and exciting time displays just introduced a new version of its UR-210. Nobody can the deny the appeal – and the success – of this model.
Urwerk presents this masterpiece in a black platinum version, in keeping with a tradition held since its foundation. May we introduce: the UR-210 Black Platinum.

You have to keep your eyes glued to the dial as the minute hand approaches the end of its hour. Don’t blink our you’ll miss a display of controlled energy in the lighting return of the retrograde hand as it snaps back to the start of the next hour. The action is too swift for the eye but you hear the sharp click that announces the arrival of the hand on exactly zero. Raw power, masterful restrained and controlled.
The combination of the revolving satellite complication and retrograde minutes is seen nowhere as in the UR-210. The prominent three-dimensional minute hand acts as a high-tech cowling that encloses the hours and carries them in turn smoothly across the minute scale.

The speed of the flyback depends on three key factors: The central hub ensures that the mechanism remains stable and constitutes the rock on which the entire complication rests. A cylindrical spring along the shaft accumulates the power for the retrograde function. The unusual minute hand that acts as a cowling to transport the hours has equally uncommon dimensions. Machined in aluminium, it is perfectly balanced by a brass counterweight. A double co-axial cam in the shape of a star governs the retrograde action. Its gearing and its rotation determine the trajectory of the minute hand.

The dial of the UR-210 Black Platinum also features a power reserve indicator at 1 o’clock and opposite at 11 o’clock there seems to be a second one. But it is, in fact, a similar indication which is also very different. It shows the winding efficiency during the last two hours. This feature is the world’s first! It calculates the energy flow, the ratio between the energy generated and consumed. If you’re sitting comfortably in a chair, not moving much, you’ll see the hand of the winding efficiency indicator move slowly towards the red sector. Then it’s time to adjust the winding rate. The adjuster for this feature is on the back of the watch. If it’s switched to “Full” the rotor becomes sensitive to the slightest motion, on “reduced” it absorbs some of the energy created by the rotor. In the “Stop” position, the UR-210 becomes a manually wound watch.
The calibre UR-7.10 works at a frequency of 4 Hz.

The case is designed in a way that it appears to have reacted to the force of the flyback minutes, developing a series of regular shock waves radiating from the dial. The deep furrowed arcs also accentuate the beautiful hexagonal design of the case which is water resistant up to 3 atm.

The UR-210 Black Platinum is a limited edition of 25 watches.

Clear Design: The New Armin Strom Pure Resonance

Armin Strom is known for maintaining a pared-down approach when it comes to watches. This ensures the brand’s style of watchmaking remains focused on its essence. And with every new model Armin Strom heads further in that direction and the new Pure Resonance is no exception. This version too heads further in said direction, squarely placing emphasis on the watch’s most remarkable feature: the visible dual balances oscillating in resonance.

The goal of the Pure Resonance has not changed: to display the interesting resonant balances while improving overall precision. To this end, the twin seconds flyback mechanism of Caliber ARF15 was removed and replaced with one clear-cut subsidiary seconds subdial. The reason for this can be found in the straightforward approach to the movement: the fewer functions a timepiece must perform, the better it can concentrate on accuracy. In other words, with no superfluous functions the watch con focus fully on precisely providing the time.

The dial now offers just subdials for time displays. Roman numerals dominate the off-center subdial displaying hours and minutes in black and blue with blued steel hands, while a classic railroad track marks the exact minutes. The smaller subdial at 7 o’clock displays seconds using only a baton-styled white hand and a simple track.
The resonators are placed at the left side of the dial. The time displays receive their portioned energy from the lower regulator, while the upper regulator remains in place to create resonance.

This conceptual forthrightness is reflected in the design of the movement: the basic calibre ARF16 showcases the resonant regulators and resonance clutch spring. New bridges are decorated with côtes de Genève. The mechanical movement beats at a frequency of 25,200 vph and provides a power reserve of 48 hours minimum.

The outward design of this new Pure Resonance has been kept also pure. The case has a diameter of 42 mm and comes in rose gold or stainless steel. It is 1.4 mm smaller than the original version, comes with reduced lugs and crown and practically no bezel. The characteristic lip at 6 o’clock remains, therefore it can be customized easily.
The case is water resistant up to 5 atm and comes with a leather bracelet.

RJ-Romain Jerome’s Newest Piece: RJ x Spider-Man

RJ-Romain Jerome has once again joined forces with Marvel, one of the biggest entertainment companies in the world. Because that’s what the watch manufacturer does, and does best. The result is another exceptional piece, this time dedicated to the most agile Super Hero: Spider-Man.
Spider-Man has widely spread into pop culture from its first appearance in the early sixties in a comic book to today. He is one of Marvel’s best known and most popular Super Heroes, he is also part of the Avengers, and since the first Spider-Man movie featuring Tobey Maguire in 2002, Marvel is reigning over the Super Hero movie universe with an iron fist.

The RJ x Spider-Man is presented in RJ-Romain Jerome’s elegant Skylab case which follows the rule of a classic round-shaped case with four lugs. Enhanced with the four paws characteristic for Romain Jerome, the all black case, made from PVD-coated steel with a satin-finish, reveals a skeleton movement offering endless transparency. The case offers a diameter of massive 48 mm and is waterproof up to 3 bar.
The intricacy of the model also resides in the different perspectives on the dial and the elements that intertwine – the central, bright red spider-shaped applique, the transparency of the skeleton as well as the web metallized on the sapphire crystal. The timeless spider logo is taking center stage on the dial and is probably the best evocation of the character Peter Parker, whose life changed forever with the bite of a radioactive spider.

The modern 3-layer movement featuring straight bridges and chamfered angles comes from the RJ-Romain Jerome design labs. The calibre RJ004-M is a mechanical movement that works at 28,800 vph and grants a power reserve of 48 hours minimum. It features only hours and minutes.

The RJ x Spider-Man comes with a black rubber strap.
This edition is limited to 75 pieces and every one will cost 20.950€.

Baselworld 2018: There Will Be A New Breguet Tourbillon

The wait is almost over for fans and manufacturers of watches – the big exhibitions of the year are almost here. The SIHH is literally just around the corner and then it won’t be long before Baselworld. Breguet just hinted that they will introduce a new tourbillon model at Baselworld.
Breguet will enrich its Grandes Complications collection with the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique in a “Grand Feu” enamel version.

The addition to the Classique Grandes Complications collection Ref. 5367 provides a beautifully simple interpretation of the tourbillon, which reigns supreme on a minimalist dial. The information has been deliberately pared down to essentials in order to give the mechanism the full attention it deserves. Contrary to reference 5377 presented in 2013, this new edition has no power-reserve indicator.
In order to draw the gaze to the key element, Breguet has opted for a graphic hand-bevelled tourbillon bar, topped by a spinel. The likewise blue Breguet hands strike a powerful contrast with the immaculate whiteness of the traditional enamel, thereby ensuring perfect legibility of the hours and minutes. The chapter ring with Breguet Arabic numerals is off-centered at 11 o’clock and thus directly facing the tourbillon at 5 o’clock. This display layout is reminiscent of the watches created by A.-L. Breguet, which revolutionised the aesthetic conventions governing the timepieces of their era.

While the appearance of this Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique model is extremely understated on the front, its movement is nonetheless richly decorated and hand-engraved, to be seen through the sapphire case back. The calibre 581 comprises a balance oscillating at a frequency of 4 Hz while maintaining a comfortable 80-hour power reserve.

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 with its “Grand Feu” enamel dial is available in rose gold or platinum versions, respectively fitted with a brown or blue alligator strap.

New Limited Edition by Raymond Weil: Bob Marley Tango

Watch enthusiasts know Raymond Weil among others for its limited editions in which the Swiss manufacturer honors musical icons. In the recent past fans could gush over a model celebrating the Gibson Les Paul guitar, Buddy Holly, David Bowie and two different Beatles watches. Now Raymond Weil has introduced a new music collaboration, honouring the iconic Reggae legend Bob Marley.
Bob Marley remains one of the 20th century’s most important and influential music icons. Famous for having put reggae on the global map, his lifestyle and music continue to inspire new generations illustrated by the millions of albums sold worldwide. His daughter said about the collaboration: “We are honoured to work with Raymond Weil on the creation of this timepiece that celebrates our father’s legacy and recognizes the artistic contributions of so many great musicians in this unique way,” Cedella Marley said.

The Bob Marley Tango 300, a tribute to the renowned artist was developed and designed by Raymond Weil in collaboration with the “House of Marley”. The manufacturer has chosen ist emblematic tango 300 collection for its versatility and durability, as the canvas for the design of this limited edition. Its 41 mm diameter stainless steel case comes with a black PVD plated bezel and houses a quartz chronograph mechanism. The case back is engraved with the iconic Bob Marley logo.

Punctuated with green hands on the sub-dials and a yellow coated second’s hand, this timepiece takes in the color palette from the Ethiopian national flag. The colours stand out spectacularly against the black dial and the red details on the beveled minute track ring complete the look with a subtle reference to the flag. The dial is textured while the subdials aren’t and therefore contrast with its surroundings. At 3 o’clock you’ll find the running seconds, at 6 o’clock the chronograph counts the hours, at 9 o’clock the minutes. Raymond Weil has placed a small date window between 4 and 5 o’clock and there is our only point of criticism because its background is white and therefore stands really out, disrupting the balance a little.
Hour and minute hands as well as the indexes glow in the dark.

The Bob Marley Tango 300 is a 600 piece limited edition and is completed by a black rubber strap.

L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac

Pursuing its longstanding involvement in celebrating life’s finest milestones as well as honoring traditional Chinese arts, Chopard is taking things to a new level with an extraordinary new one-off creation: the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac. Chopard has created an entirely hand-engraved rose gold case depicting the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac.

With this timepiece, Chopard is further extending the approach that has driven the manufacture to create a yearly edition of the L.U.C XP Urushi. This year, the entire Chinese zodiac is portrayed on the case middle of this stylised unique piece, with a black patina coating adorning rose gold. The 12 signs are individually represented using the champlevé engraving technique where little cavities are hollowed out before being filled with black patina. Of course, the 12 animals are ordered chronologically, symbolising the Chinese calendar. The tiger’s head is perched on the crown while his body fits the case. A dragon and a snake are coiled between the lugs.

The case houses a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and an over one-week power reserve ensured by the four barrels of the Quattro system of the L.U.C claibre 02.15-L. The perpetual calendar  is indicating the complete date while taking account of the variable durations of the months, including leap years.The tourbillon sits enthroned at 6 o’clock on the dial, topped by a polished and blackened steel bridge. By constantly spinning on its axis, it releases the rate of the watch from the influence of gravity.
The solid gold dial of the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac is adorned with a hand-engraved motif inspired by traditional Chinese iconography and also featured on the bezel and the buckle.

We’re sorry to say, that the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac is a limited edition of one piece. It will be the object of an exclusive presentation to Asian collectors at a private exhibition in Beijing.

How About an Engine Block on the Wrist?

This month, Parmigiani Fleurier introduced a wristwatch inspired by a car – so fundamentally, that it comes with an engine, a driver’s cab and a bodywork. The Bugatti Typ 390 is a tribute to the Bugatti Chiron. This car stands out due to its extreme power, reliability and performance – could there be a better inspiration for a watch?
Parmigiani Fleurier has teamed up with Bugatti in 2004 and since then the watch manufacturer has challenged the traditional Haute Horlogerie with daring new models, each inspired by a luxurious car. It all began with the Bugatti Type 370 and Parmigiani Fleurier continued to stay on its pioneering path ever since.

A true phenomenon in the traditional watch design landscape, the new Bugatti Type 390 is primarily an engine block on the wrist. Nor frills, no purely decorative elements: everything is focused on performance and on the essentials, on performance and reliability. The engine block on the wrist with its horizontal cylindrical construction took four years to develop.

Inspired by the principles behind the construction of the Chiron, the designers chose an engine/interior/bodywork design. Specifically, the horizontal cylindrical movement (the engine) is connected by a worm screw to the dial and the displays (the interior) which are positioned perpendicularly. The entire assembly is enveloped in a gold and sapphire crystal case (the bodywork) through which the moving mechanism can be admired.
The black open-worked dial makes the Bugatti Type 390 a lightweight yet high-performance timepiece. The luminescent applique indices and hands create a stark contrast to ensure optimal legibility. The seconds can be read through the magnifying effect of the sapphire crystal at the end of the cylinder.

Inspired by the fluid curves of the Bugatti Chiron, the case of the Bugatti Type 390 is created from gold and engraved on the back with a serial number.The case was created by Les Artisans Boîtiers and is constructed around the cylindrical structure and is water resistant to 3 atm. It stands out thanks to its ability to pivot 12° around its drive shift (patent pending) to ensure perfect ergonomics around any wrist.
Large openings topped with sapphire crystal allow the wearer to admire the technical sophistication of the timepiece: via the top and the end of the tubular structure one can dive deep into the heart of the complex mechanisms – the “engine” and the flying tourbillon – while the openings over and under the dial reveal the watch’s many gears and enable the time to be read.

The mechanical, cylindrical PF390 movement is equipped with a flying tourbillon. Specially developed for this watch, the calibre is housed in a cylinder boasting an 80-hour power reserve thanks to its two series-mounted barrels.
Parmigiani has slimmed down the movement to a point where its diameter is no larger than the regulator of its 60-second tourbillon. In view of the cylindrical configuration of the movement, the usual wheel-pinion-wheel-pinion configuration is replaced by a transmission using three planetary gear trains. Each of these is equipped with a central train wheel. Another key point is the fact that the assembly requires no lubrication: a significant advantage in terms of reliability and maintenance. The series-type coupling of the two barrels guarantees a constant transfer of energy. The flying tourbillon oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz.
In light of the watch’s innovative features and the unique solution it offers, the calibre PF390 heralds a new era in Parmigiani Fleurier’s Bugatti collection. It has been designed and created to become the platform for development of future Bugatti models.

The alligator leather strap is made by Hermès and fitted with a gold folding buckle. Parmigiani Fleurier has limited this watch to a edition of 20 pieces – 10 pink and 10 white gold versions.
It is clear that the Bugatti Type 390 is far more than a watch stamped with a car marque logo; it is the Bugatti Chiron reborn in watch form.

Girard-Perregaux: The New Ceramic-Clad Laureato

For the first time in its history, the Laureato is welcoming a new version entirely clothed in black ceramic: the Laureato 42 mm Ceramic. Thus attired, the iconic Girard-Perregaux casual chic watch takes a walk on the dark side, but only to further enhance its charisma and its strong presence.
Like fans already know, the Laureato has a personality all its own. Its genetic code drives evolutions in various details of its appearance, while never distorting its essence.

The Laureato is defined by a polished octagonal bezel fitted on an integrated case, meaning with no lugs or loops. The use of ceramic further enhances its ergonomic qualities. This high-tech material is at once light, scratch-resistant and extremely well tolerated by the skin.
As horological icon, the Laureato continues playing with contemporary codes. This architectural watch adopts this new material like a natural extension of its nature. It absorbs the structural and ergonomic benefits of ceramic and applies them to the service of wearer comfort. Black in watches is an absolute fashion color and manufacturers like to chose it for more robust models and it suits the Laureato as if it were born that way. The interplay of polished and satin-brushed surfaces creates fascinating depth effects and enlivens the watch even when such a deep shade of black.
The case is water-resistant up to 100 metres.

The also black dial of the Laureato deeply impresses with a stunning Clou de Paris-hobnail motif which adds a three-dimensional structure. Hands and indices are enhanced with luminescent material and the date on its black disc is also white, adding up to an ideal legibility. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal.
The Girard-Perregaux is powered by an automatic movement, the GP01800-0025. This calibre works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power-reserve of approximately 54 hours.

In donning a ceramic mantle in the darkest shade of all, the Laureato displays the strength and relevance of its design – leger, elegant and classic. And the quality Girard-Perregaux delivers is always beyond doubt. So what’s not to like?