How About an Engine Block on the Wrist?

This month, Parmigiani Fleurier introduced a wristwatch inspired by a car – so fundamentally, that it comes with an engine, a driver’s cab and a bodywork. The Bugatti Typ 390 is a tribute to the Bugatti Chiron. This car stands out due to its extreme power, reliability and performance – could there be a better inspiration for a watch?
Parmigiani Fleurier has teamed up with Bugatti in 2004 and since then the watch manufacturer has challenged the traditional Haute Horlogerie with daring new models, each inspired by a luxurious car. It all began with the Bugatti Type 370 and Parmigiani Fleurier continued to stay on its pioneering path ever since.

A true phenomenon in the traditional watch design landscape, the new Bugatti Type 390 is primarily an engine block on the wrist. Nor frills, no purely decorative elements: everything is focused on performance and on the essentials, on performance and reliability. The engine block on the wrist with its horizontal cylindrical construction took four years to develop.

Inspired by the principles behind the construction of the Chiron, the designers chose an engine/interior/bodywork design. Specifically, the horizontal cylindrical movement (the engine) is connected by a worm screw to the dial and the displays (the interior) which are positioned perpendicularly. The entire assembly is enveloped in a gold and sapphire crystal case (the bodywork) through which the moving mechanism can be admired.
The black open-worked dial makes the Bugatti Type 390 a lightweight yet high-performance timepiece. The luminescent applique indices and hands create a stark contrast to ensure optimal legibility. The seconds can be read through the magnifying effect of the sapphire crystal at the end of the cylinder.

Inspired by the fluid curves of the Bugatti Chiron, the case of the Bugatti Type 390 is created from gold and engraved on the back with a serial number.The case was created by Les Artisans Boîtiers and is constructed around the cylindrical structure and is water resistant to 3 atm. It stands out thanks to its ability to pivot 12° around its drive shift (patent pending) to ensure perfect ergonomics around any wrist.
Large openings topped with sapphire crystal allow the wearer to admire the technical sophistication of the timepiece: via the top and the end of the tubular structure one can dive deep into the heart of the complex mechanisms – the “engine” and the flying tourbillon – while the openings over and under the dial reveal the watch’s many gears and enable the time to be read.

The mechanical, cylindrical PF390 movement is equipped with a flying tourbillon. Specially developed for this watch, the calibre is housed in a cylinder boasting an 80-hour power reserve thanks to its two series-mounted barrels.
Parmigiani has slimmed down the movement to a point where its diameter is no larger than the regulator of its 60-second tourbillon. In view of the cylindrical configuration of the movement, the usual wheel-pinion-wheel-pinion configuration is replaced by a transmission using three planetary gear trains. Each of these is equipped with a central train wheel. Another key point is the fact that the assembly requires no lubrication: a significant advantage in terms of reliability and maintenance. The series-type coupling of the two barrels guarantees a constant transfer of energy. The flying tourbillon oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz.
In light of the watch’s innovative features and the unique solution it offers, the calibre PF390 heralds a new era in Parmigiani Fleurier’s Bugatti collection. It has been designed and created to become the platform for development of future Bugatti models.

The alligator leather strap is made by Hermès and fitted with a gold folding buckle. Parmigiani Fleurier has limited this watch to a edition of 20 pieces – 10 pink and 10 white gold versions.
It is clear that the Bugatti Type 390 is far more than a watch stamped with a car marque logo; it is the Bugatti Chiron reborn in watch form.

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a New Limited Edition

To mark the 74th Venice International Film Festival, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture, which has been a partner of the festival for over 12 years, has presented an artistic edition of Rendez-Vous watches. Since its launch in 2012, the Rendez-Vous collection has always been associated with the world of cinema. This year once again, the romantic ambiance of the Most Serene Republic is a splendid backdrop against which to present these feminine pieces. The latest watches issued from the Grande Maison’s Métiers Rares “Rare Handcrafts” workshop, the Rendez-Vous Sonatina pieces express three different stages of romantic feelings: seduction, romance, and love.
To create these three limited editions, the Manufacture called on all of its most iconic forms of expertise, giving its watchmakers and artisans free rein to work their art. These pieces call on no fewer than three crafts: guillochage, painting on mother-of-pearl, and gem-setting.

The mother-of pearl dial is decorated by hand with a guilloché motif that stretches across its entire surface before being coated in a slightly tinted layer of paint. This is the backdrop on which the artisans paint the miniature paintings by hand. Some parts of it, such as the birds, have been covered with a layer of clear lacquer to add an impression of depth.
Like mentioned earlier, each of the three models represents one stage of love. The first stage is embodied by the “Séduction”. Two swallows soaring over a lavender field embody this moment. The “Romance” depicts this state of endless reverie with a kingfisher perched on the branch of a blossoming cherry tree. The last model, the “Amour”, bears two magpies flying alongside one another above a patch of peonies.

Above all this every creation bears countless gems. The bezel is adorned with brillant-cut diamonds that bring out the poetic creation on the dial. A line of these gemstones runs above the iconic Rendez-Vous collection numerals on the flange to echo the string of stones that delicately surround the dial’s central painting. To complete the decoration, diamonds are also inserted into each side of the case.

The pink gold Rendez-Vous Sonatina large incorporates different complications. Adjusted using the crown at 2 o’clock , a star indicates a future rendezvous with a chiming sound. This reminder is complemented by a day/night indication. Housed at 6 o’clock in an aperture shaped like the flowers painted on the dial, the sun and moon take turns to perform their never-ending dance.
These watches are powered by the automatic calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 735. This movement works with 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 40 hours.
The rose gold case comes with a diameter of 38,2 mm, it is water resistant up to 5 bar and is completed by a leather bracelet.

These watches are limited to 8 pieces each.

 

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater by Bulgari

After the world’s thinnest tourbillon model launched in 2014, Bulgari now launches the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, which earns the title of the smallest on the market. Bulgari is taking a new step in this field, once again pushing the limits. The Octo ist not just any watch. Already an iconic model, it reinvents itself in 2016 with a new collection..
The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater lays the foundations of a new approach to mechanics and to classic complications while extending Bulgari’s line of ultra-thin watches. With this timepiece the watch manufacturer also preserves its status and cultivates watchmaking traditions by combining extreme slenderness with one of the most elaborate horological complications.

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A striking watch implies a number of specific construction constraints and full command of certain distinctive skills in order to achieve the best possible outcome: an intense, crystal-clear chime with a perfectly uniform and regular cadence when the mechanism is activated. The aim was to achieve the perfect sound within the smallest possible space. Therefore, it had to made from titanium: in addition to its appreciable lightness, the properties of this low-density metal ensure the best possible sound diffusion.

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The circular-section gongs directly affixed to the case are individually fashioned and finished by hand throughout the production process, which involves many separate stages, as are the two hammers. The pusher activating the striking mechanism is positioned on the case middle at 9 o’clock. It is designed to guarantee continuous water resistance to 50 m.
The in-house developed and produced BVL Calibre 362 measures just 3.12 mm thick and the overall case thickness amounts to only 6.85 mm. It is hand-wound and delivers a 42-hour power reserve once fully wound.

The hour-markers on the dial – made from titanium like the case – feature an incised, cut-out design, as too does the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock: the openings serve to amplify resonance inside the case and thereby  optimise the sound effect.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater embodies a paradigm shift in terms of slenderness and lays the foundations of a new approach to mechanics and to classic complications, all the while preserving and cultivating watchmaking traditions.
This watch is a limited, 50-piece edition.

Special Edition: London Chronograph by Speake-Marin

This spring, Speake-Marin unveils a special edition dedicated to the early years of the British watchmaker peter Speake-Marin. The London Chronograph is a special edition and it will only be available in the Fine Watch Room at Harrods, in London during this summer.
After qualifying as a horologist a London’s Hackney College and deepening his knowledge of watch making in Switzerland, Peter Speake-Marin met Georges Somlo in 1990. Speake-Marin stayed in Somlo’s Piccadilly arcade for six years, restoring al manor of early pocket and wrist watches. The London Chronograph is a tribute not only to this years but also to the watches Speake-Marin learned to love back then.

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The chronograph is powered by a Valjoux 92 made during the 1950’s and 60’s. As with many mechanical calibres the quartz revolution in the late 60’s cut short the life of this and many other calibres. Therefore today these calibres are rare and it was chosen by Peter Speake-Marin because it is the same type of movement he had restored during his time in London during the 1990’s while working with Georges Somlo.

The Valjoux 92 succeeded the popular Valjoux 23 family. It was similarly sized but used a different technology. It was an oscillating pinion design, distinct at a glance for having two rather than three chronograph engagement wheels visible at the back. The historical chronograph movement were used by companies like Patek Philippe, Rolex and TAG Heuer. The mechanical hand wound movement beats with 18.000 beats per hour and features a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The London Chronograph is housed in a 42 mm titanium case with a three dimensional white dial. On the dial, the Arabic numbers alternate with Roman numerals to bring a vintage touch. The red 12 has classical connotations and associations with early pocket and wrist watches made in England.
The centre seconds chronograph is married in color to the 30 minute recorder hand located at 3 o’clock on the dial. The two subsidiary dials for the 30 minute recorder and the seconds dial are both seen to float on the dial and below them is found the Speake-marin topping tool logo wheel fitted to the hour wheel turning with the hour hand. The Central Speake-Marin signature Foundation style hands in heat blued steel bring the final touch to this special edition.

CHRONO CLASS_ART 01 (500ko)The London Chronograph is equipped with a black rubber strap and water resistant up to 3 atm. It will only be available the coming summer like mentioned before and it’s priced at £14.400.

Stunning In White Gold And Blue: The New Arnold & Son DSTB

bb-Arnold_Son_DSTB_Blue_WGDemonstrating its rich British history and quality Swiss craftsmanship, Arnold & Son unveils a new limited white gold edition of the BSTB (Dial Side True Beat). The DSTB is a testament to its heritage, vision and Haute Horlogerie ingenuity.

The DSTB is part of the Instrument Collection and, like every other model from Arnold & Son, features an in-house mechanical movement. The true beat seconds is a traditional complication of Arnold & Son, and this watch pays tribute to the watches produced by John Arnold during the second half of his career.
Upholding that legacy, Arnold & Son’s master watchmakers thrive on creating complicated movements for exquisite timepieces. Such is the case with the DSTB watch, a truly innovative technical and architectural achievement. The newly developed automatic movement showcases the true beat seconds’ mechanism entirely on the dial side. Not just the hands, but also the lever, wheels and three true beat seconds bridges are located on the dial side. The true beat seconds lever is shaped like an anchor – paying homage to Arnold’s maritime achievements.

Arnold_Son_DSTB_Blue_WG_front_klThe true beat seconds are indicated via a large sapphire dial that occupies the top left portion of the dial at 11 o’clock. At the 4 o’clock position, a domed and white lacquered subdial indicates the hours and the minutes via blued hands. These overlapping indications translate into a stunning three-dimensional dial.

The self-winding calibre A&S6003 has 229 components. The palladium treated movement features Haute Horlogerie finishing with hand-chamfered and satin-finished lever and bridges, polished edges and fine circular graining. The visible dial plate is blue PVD treated with large circular finishing.

This Arnold & Son timepiece is housed inside a 43.5 mm 18-carat white gold case with anti-reflective sapphire crystal and caseback for viewing the finished movement. It is completed by a hand-stitched strap, made from black alligator leather.
This edition of the DSTB will be limited to 125 pieces.

Chrono Diamond Furia – Fury on your wrist

 

… feels furiously good! That much I can already tell you, after wearing the Furia, one of the new models of Switzerland-based watch manufacturer Chrono Diamond for three days. Bottom line, or better, intermediate result: a good watch, and fun to wear.

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Furia black IP

Let’s take a closer look at the Swiss-made watch. „Furia“ is its name, and I chose the steel version because I like it most. There are other versions of the Furia: IP-black, rosegold and gold.

Pesonally, what I like so much about the Furia, are its stark contrasts. The black leather wristband complements the black dial elements. The casing itself is 316L stainless steel, with a rich 45mm diameter. Surely, that’s no small watch, but fortunately (I know other watches that really suck in that regard) the designers were able to keep the watch remarkable. To me, there’s nothing worse than big watches trying to come across as playful and lightweight. The Furia is not one of them. I like that.

Chrono Diamond watches get their name from the fact that there are at least two diamonds build into them. That’s the case with my Furia, as well. I find them at 11 and 1, and I’m glad they’re small. Blingbling is not for men’s watches, if you ask me.

The Furia is powered by a quartz movement. That’s convenient because you don’t have to wear and move the watch all the time. This makes it low-maintenance, something I like very much.

I don’t care for a plethora of functionalities in watches, but the Chrono Diamond Furia comes woth a chronograph and a date display build in. Fair enough.

Bottom line, I’m happy with my new watch. I’ll keep you posted. The way things are going, the Furia won’t be the last Chrono Diamond model I’ll buy.

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Furia gold IP

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Furia rosegold IP

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Furia steel

Modell-No.: 10700

  • Stainless steel case

  • Leather wristlet

  • Quarz caliber swiss made

  • Hardened mineral glass

  • 2 diamonds at clock face

  • Date

  • Chronograph

  • Case diameter 45 mm

  • Height 11 mm

  • Band width 24 mm

  • 5 ATM water resistant

  • Limited numbered edition 3000 pieces

  • Weight 95g with wristlet

  • Recommended retail price 1.550 EUR / 1.940 CHF

Chrono Diamond – my new beloved

Ariadne_rosegold_IP_front AusschnittWhat comes first to your mind when you hear the names Ariadne, Leandra and Lenya? Most definitely you think these are the names of the ex-girlfriends of Lothar Matthäus the famous german soccer player

When I hear these names I think of diamonds, design, elegance and high-class workmanship. My beloved watches from Chrono Diamond!

They are not quite a steal. So I was really thinking: should I spend so much money for a watch? But when I saw that a famous online shopping portal was offering the watches for 70% under the retail price I did not think twice and ordered Ariadne (who should become my new beloved very soon).

Since I like earthy tones and warm colors I decided to order Ariadne Rosegold IP. The watch case has a warm rose gold color. The real leather watch strap has a reddish brown color. It goes perfectly together.

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Diamonds are a girl’s best friend! The designers of Chrono Diamond obviously know that! Many sparkling zirconia and even two real diamonds can be found on the dial. The watch case is made of gilded stainless steel. Ariadne has a really nice size. The watch is not too small but also not too big. The quartz movement is made in Swiss. Unfortunately, 2999 other girls can have Ariadne too. The watch is limited to 3000 pieces. But I can cope with that.

I really love my new watch and I’m sure we’ll spend a long and happy time together. And hey …. Lothar Matthäus. Maybe you should give your next girl friend a Chrono Diamond watch as a present – I’m sure this will make her stay longer 🙂

 

Test report Richtenburg Nightflight – Diamonds are a girl’s best friend

nightflight1For our taste there can’t be enough sparkling stones on a piece of jewelry. That’s why we couldn’t wait for the Richtenburg Nightflight to arrive. For quite a time we are having an eye on this noble watch. I’d only seen pictures of it but I instantly knew: I have to have this watch! After only a couple of days the watch arrived at our house. I love the design of Richtenburg’s Nightflight. Less is usually more. The design of the dial is simple and clear. No numbers no outsized date/month displays. Nothing distracts from the extraordinary beauty of the sparkling zircons that are arranged around the dial, on the lunette. The real leather wristband is of good workmanship and it feels very soft and comfortable on the wrist. Behind hardened mineral glass works the automatic watch movement Richtenburg Kaliber RK226 with 20 Stones. This movement has proved to be very precise and reliable.The Richtenburg Nightflight is waterproof to 10 bar – Yay! I’ll definitely wear this watch to my next pool party!

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Test report: Mathis Montabon le Général

We put several Mathis Montabon watches to the acid test. The Le Général passed all our tests with flying colors. The name Mathis Montabon stands for high quality luxury watches, precision and durability.

Only top-quality  materials were used for the fabrication of le Général. The stainless steel  watch case has an impressive size. The watch case has a diameter of  47mm and a height of 15mm. The watch is equipped with scratch proof sapphire glass. The movement Mathis Montabon Kaliber M-3 with 21 stones is a durable and high-quality automatic movement. The dial shows a display for the day / month,  a 24h display and a sun/moon disk.

The real leather wristband is soft and feels comfortable on the wrist. The watch is waterproof up to 5 atm. The collection includes four different styles with white, red, blue or green colored second hands and a minute ring in the same color.

The price of our test model is 1.420 EUR. That’s an adequate price for a high quality watch that successfully combines functionality and design.

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André Belfort Chronographe Royale – Hasta la vista Baby!

It almost looks like it’s arisen from a sience fiction movie – the Chronogrape Royale by André Belfort –  and puts one in mind of the Terminatior is turning round the corner right now to put it on his wrist. Masculine and elegant is the way how it represents itself. Tough exterior and real pushover? We want to check this out…There are two colour variants available. Steel/silver and steel/black. For our test we decided to take the plain-coloured type in steel / silver.

Design and manufacture
The André Belfort Chronographe Royale seems to be manufactured carefully. Scratches or material defects? – far from it. Due to its stately weight the Chronographe Royal appears presentable in an adequate way. The stainless steel case has a diameter of 43 mm – masculine to all intents and purposes. A supreme wearing comfort is assured with its real flip-lock leather strap. Also the design is harmonious. The honeycomb-structure of the clock face continues on the stainless steel strap.The totalisators in simply black are well silhouetted against the clock face and therefore well legible.

Procedure
Behind scratch-proof saphireglass works the automatic clock unit André Belfort “caliber ETK 810”. In daily use the clock unit is proved as accurate and authentic. The ajustment of the clock with the crown is unproblematic. The feel of the deadener and the crown convince. As a special highlight the Chronograph Royale brings a Tachymetrescale to calculate speeds with it. We are exited!

Result
The timeindicator Chronographe Royale from Belfort has really Science-Fiction potential. It convinces with its high class manufacture, its authentic clock unit and at last with its masculine design.Quality has of course its price. The recommended retail price of the manufacturer is 2190 Euro.

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