Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Off-Centered

The new Grande Seconde Off-Centered by Jaquet Droz is daring to create contrast, is playing with light and transforming materials. Its new theme of gold and black jade bringts together the principal codes of the Maison in a wonderful timepiece that breaks with conventions ever so elegantly.

While the design of the Grande Seconde, created by Pierre Jaquet-Droz almost three centuries ago, is ever recognizable, it is a trademark of the Maison. And in the Grande Seconde Off-Centered it is as characteristic as ever – even if it brings a resolute difference into the collection: the time is off-center. The alignment of the hours and minutes with the independent large seconds is respected but along a slightly slanted axis, from 1 o’clock to 7 o’clock.

For the dial, Jaquet Droz focuses on one of its most impressive skills: the masterful use of minerals. Mineral dials offer unique motifs time and again. The stones, sometimes dating back several millions of years, are perfectly set in scene and reveal themselves in all their magnificent singularity.
Black jade is one such treasure. Almost exclusively of Australian origin, it comes from two principal sites in the south and east of the continent. It is an extremely hard stone, thanks to the presence of metal in its composition, and requires lengthy polishing to reveal the tiny silver sinclusions that are its hidden secret. Almost imperceptible to the naked eye, they enrich black jade with a unique reflection that does not only look stunning, but allows the knowledgeable eye to distinguish it from onyx.

The barely 1 mm thick mineral sheet of the dial is paired with a 43 mm red gold case featuring warm, coppery highlights. The two time display circles and their hands are also in red gold, creating a fascinating contrast with the black background.
Inside the 3 atm water-resistant case works the Jaquet Droz 2663A.P. This in-house automatic movement works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provide a power-reserve of up to 68 hours.

The new Grande Seconde Off-Centered is a limited edition of 88 pieces. It is completed by a black alligator leather strap.

Urwerk Ur-100 Gold Edition

This new creation is the fourt episode in the UR-100 intergalactic saga, recounting the adventures of an atypical time instrument written, produced, and directed by the horological studio Urwerk. Approaching light speed, the UR-100 pushes the boundaries of technology, design, indications and functionality. Like other Urwerk models, this latest UR-100 clearly shows that science fiction has been an inexhaustible source of inspiration for Baumgartner and Frei. Why else would this newest model be named after the popular Star Wars droid C-3PO.

First and foremost, the UR-100 is slim – extra-flat for a satellite-geared watch – with angular contours; it’s an elongated octagon with three notched sides. The form uses subtle asymmetry, taking clues from Han Solo’s Millennium Falcon. The UR-100 is cutfrom a solid block of yellow gold, its surface satin-finished to the same pale shine as the Star Wars droid. It measures 41 x 49.7 x 14 mm and is pressure tested to 3 bar.
Topping the case is a sapphire crystal bubble reminiscent of the shape of the first Urwerk models, the dome housing the control center of this intergalactic visitor.

The UR-100’s astrophysics govern the Urwerk universe with rotating satellites displaying the hours and minutes. Isochronal revolutions create a miniature cosmic ballet, the hour satellites also displaying minutes as they traverse 120 degrees across the bright green scale. A bold red arrowhead marks the confluence of hours and minutes, offering a unique, highly legible, and intuitive time display.
At last, but certainly not least, are the discreet spacetime indications on each side of the top of the dome’s periphery. After each of the three red minute arrowheads pass the numeral 60 they disappear and then reappear again on two separate kilometer scales. The first display at 9 o’clock marks the 555 km traveled along the equator during 20 minutes of the earth’s rotation, the second display at 3 o’clock indicates the distance – 35,740 kilometres – traveled by the earth as it orbits the around the sun over 20 minutes.

The UR-100 is powered by the calibre UR 12.01. The automatic winding system is equipped with the legendary “Windfänger”. This planetary gear limits the speed of rotation of the rotor, minimizing both excessive winding and wear and maximizing reliability and lifespan.
This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of at least 48 hours.

The UR-100 C-3PO is a special edition limited to 25 pieces.

Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon

Laurent Ferrier is known for creating classical watches imbued with traditional watchmaking crafts and mechanical excellence. Now, the Genevan atelier has crafted a new contemporary watch, which upholds the company’s uncompromising approach to watchmaking: The Grand Sport Tourbillon.
It is the first model, Laurent Ferrier has equipped with a stainless steel case. The new addition features a tourbillon, double balance spring and the firm’s legendary finishing.

Laurent Ferrier was a passionate sports enthusiast, especially when it came to car racing. He competed no less tha seven times in the famous 24 Hours of Le Mans and secured victory once. Accordingly, the passion for motorsport is still an important part of the firm’s DNA. And this love of sports has also led to the creation of the latest creation, the Grand Tourbillon Sport.

The Grand Tourbillon Sport is contemporary, but does not eschew the Maison’s penchant for traditional craftsmanship and technical excellence.
The wristwatch is housed in a 44mm stainless steel case and predominantly features circular satin-finished elements. The bezel is cushion-shaped but encompasses contrasting mirror-polished flanks, the middle of the case has a barrel-shaped outline. Despite all the contrasts, every constituent of the case coalesces harmoniously.

Laurent Ferrier has equípped the Grand Tourbillon Sport with an opaline dial which transitions from blue at its centre to black near its periphery. Both the hands and indexes feature orange Super-LumiNova, vitalising the overall composition.
A snailed small seconds display resides above 6 o’clock and sits beneath the tinted sapphire crystal.

The Grand Sport Tourbillon is powered by a mechanical movement that works at a frequency of 5 Hz and provides an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. Instead of showing the tourbillon on the dial side, as is usually the case, Laurent Ferrier is making it visible through the sapphire crystal case back. Now that’s understatement.
As you would expect, Laurent Ferrier has finished the movement beautifully and painstakingly.

Not only is the stainless steel case a premiere for Laurent Ferrier, there has never before been a Maison watch equipped with a stainless steel link bracelet. With its rounded edges and contrasting mirror polish, it blends beautifully with the case.

The Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon is an exclusive model, limited to 12 pieces.

SeaQ Revives Tradition of Diver’s Watches Made in Glashütte

Timepieces from Glashütte have long been valued around the world for their high-quality mechanics, elaborate finishes and timeless elegance. Since the 19th century, precise timekeepers from Glashütte have also been used as reliable instruments for navigation and for determining one’s position on land, at sea and in the air.
Based on its rich fund of experience and its historic heritage, Glashütte Original now presents a fifth collection after historic marine chronometers, observation watches, pilot and diver’s watches: the “Spezialist”. It is aimed at the fearless man who actively creates his own life. The premiere model in this new collection is the diver’s watch SeaQ, which unites history and modernity in exemplary fashion. The “Spezimatic Type RP TS 200” developed specifically for sports divers, served as an ideal example and inspiration for the new diver’s watch.

The SeaQ is available in two versions: as the SeaQ in both a limited and an unlimited version, and as the SeaQ Panorama Date with black or blue dial.
Fifty years ago, high quality and complex functionality were already key features of Glashütte-made watches. With its limited edition SeaQ 1969, the manufactory takes up this tradition, citing the historic inscription on the black dial and the number of jewels. “Shockproof” refers to the construction of the diver’s watch, renowned even then for its particularly stable design.
The green hands and the “Old Radium” shade of beige on the Arabic numerals and indexes also derive from the historic predecessors. The engravings on the base plate offer decorative enhancement in the form of the trident maritime symbol, the Glashütte Original Double-G and 20 waves, which symbolize the 20 bar water resistance.

The black dial of the unlimited version of the SeaQ presents Arabic numerals, indexes and hands accentuated with the historic “Old Radium” hue. This version also features an engraved base plate.

The SeaQ Panorama Date features the characteristic big date of Glashütte Original, which is harmoniously positioned at 4 o’clock. The dial – optionally either black or blue with a sunray finish – presents the hands, applied Arabic numerals and indexes in green or white, respectively.

Its water resistance up to 20 bar (approx. 20 metres) makes the SeaQ well equipped for changes in pressure underwater, even at greater depths. The second model, the SeaQ Panorama Date, is even water resistant up to 30 bar and therefore perfectly suitable even for professional divers. This essential water resistance of both models is enhanced by numerous details, such as the screw-down crown, the secured base plate on the SeaQ or the screwed sapphire crystal case back on the SeaQ Panorama Date.

As genuine diver’s watches, all versions feature a unidirectional, counter-clockwise rotating bezel with perceptible click, enabling certain determination of the dive time. The SeaQ convinces with a clear minute-detent and the Super-LumiNova coated triangle marking the dive start time. The ceramic inlay makes the bezel surface exceptionally scratch-resistant.
The SeaQ 1969 and the SeaQ are both powered by the manufactory’s automatic movement Calibre 39-11, which features a power resistance of 40 hours, a stop-second mechanism and a date display at 3 o’clock. Glashütte Original has built it into a stainless steel case, 39.5 mm in diameter.

For the SeaQ Panorama Date, the Glashütte watchmakers have successfully adapted the Calibre 36 to meet the challenges of timekeeping underwater. In the 36-13 version, it beats precise and stable, anchored shock-resistant in a 43.2 mm case and with a remarkable power reserve of 100 hours.

The SeaQ 1969 is available in a limited edition of 69 pieces. It comes with two alternative straps: a rubber one and one made from nylon mesh. The SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date is additionally offered with a stainless steel strap.

RJ: Spider-Man is back

It’s been two years since RJ has introduced its last Spider-Man watch. That’s why we were pretty euphoric when we heard about the latest collaboration with Marvel – all the more when it became clear that not just one, but two Spider-Man models came out of this association: The ARRAW Spider-Man and the ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon.

The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is an openworked watch that features many references to the comic book hero on its dial. Below that works the skeleton movement, which comes in the form of a spider’s web. The small second, which lies between 8 and 9 o’clock, sits in it in the form of a bright red spider.
The automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of at least 48 hours. RJ built all of this in a robust black carbon case that comes with a water-resistance of 10 atm.
The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is a limited edition of 100 pieces.

The ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon is the first complication that RJ developed and manufactured in-house. The tourbillon construction is entirely co-axial, with a peripheral display of the hours and minutes. This central tourbillon was developed by RJ not only because the manufacturer wanted an in-home complication, but primarily to increase the power reserve to 150 hours (or 6 days).
In order to maintain perfect symmetry, the RJ decided to design the case without a crown. The winding process is done by lifting a hoop found on the case of the back, then turning it like a key. To set the time, a concealed push button at 6 o’clock must be pressed. In order to provide maximum insight into the openworked movement, RJ opted for a sapphire crystal case back.
The case has a diameter of 45 mm, is water-resistant up to 10 atm and is made of black carbon or, in a second version, a red glass fibre composite and carbon. And it is equipped with RJ bumpers in rubber.
The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is limited to 99 pieces.

RJ offers only 10 models of every version of the ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon.

Louis Erard und Alain Silberstein present two Limited Editions

Louis Erard watches are introducing a reinterpretation of the brand’s regulator watch in collaboration with the architect and watchmaker Alain Silberstein, available in two editions. This is a double first: in its 90 years of existence, Louis Erard has never given a carte blanche to a designer, while Alain Silberstein had never before designed a regulator watch.

While on the surface it may appear fun and light, this limited edition watch has hidden depth. It reflects the strategy of the Louis Erard brand, more focused than ever on its vocation as an independent watchmaker dedicated to excellence in the making of accessible watches.

The watch’s design starts with the mechanics: the brand’s regulator, an exclusive calibre made for Louis Erard. This complication goes back through the history of watchmaking. Traditionally, the principle of the regulator is to separate the indications of the hours, minutes and seconds in order to improve chronometric precision. This is a pillar of Louis Erard’s timepieces, with the regulator at the heart of its collections since the brand’s relaunch in 2003. The regulator remains more than ever at the centre of the brand’s strategy.
For Alain Silberstein, the regulator is also a technical, aesthetic and philosophical essential. For him, the regulator is the centrepiece, a model for the breaking down of time focused on the central minute hand. It is reduced to the most basic form of an indicator: an arrow. It is large and yellow on the black version, and deep blue on the white version. This minute hand points to simple lines. The rest of the dial features the same geometric simplicity: The hour hand is a large red triangle, while the seconds are indicated by a serpentine hand. The colours follow a similar logic, reduced to the basic spectrum of blue, red and yellow, inspired by the Bauhaus movement. This way, the watches pay tribute to the birthplace of modern design.

All models are powered by an automatic calibre, the ETA Peseux 7001, which is equipped with the Louis Erard RE9 complication. It operates at a frequency of 21,900 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours.

Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein have designed the cases to match the dials. They are made either of stainless steel or black PVD coated stainless steel and water resistant up to 5 atm. Depending on the colour, the watches are equipped with a black or brown calfskin strap.
As mentioned, the watches are limited editions with 178 watches each.

Ulysse Nardin Special Edition for the Monaco Yacht Show

In honor of the most prestigious yacht show in the world, Ulysse Nardin presented a new creation limited to 100 pieces with a Grand Feu enamel dial. It is part of the Marine Torpedo range, which reflects the brand’s maritime and military heritage and its mastery of this time-honoured craft.
This year’s Monaco Yacht Show once again welcomed lovers of magnificent yachts, dream destinations and luxury cruises to Port Hercule. An idyllic setting in which Ulysse Nardin, the main sponsor of the show, presented its latest creation: the Marine Torpillieur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition.
Since its very beginnings, Ulysse Nardin has focused its attention on the nautical world, and this partnership is fully in line with the manufacturer’s maritime heritage.

The new Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition reflects the full savoir-faire of Ulysse Nardin. The watches feature a Grand feu enamel dial. Ulysse Nardin benefits from the unique skills of Donzé Cadrans, who specialise in producing traditional enamel dials. Enamelling on the dial is a historical decoration technique for which there is no official training and which requires a great deal of sensitivity. The term “Grand Feu Enamel” refers to the vitrification of mineral materials. All of this work is carried out by hand and it is not unheard of for the dial to break during the various stages of production, which makes these creations all the more sought after.
For the Monaco Torpedo Marine, a copper base is first dusted with enamel in white and grey and then fired in an oven. In a second step, the indices and inscriptions are applied to the dial, which is then fired again, until the new enamel layer melts with the ensemble.

The dial is fitted a diameter to the case, then the openings of the two added subdials are fit to size. The chamfering and the two subdials is adjusted using a file in order to assemble the parts. The grey dials of the power reserve and the small second are then soldered to the white dial.
The hours are indicated by elongated blue Roman numerals and pear-shaped hands in stainless steel. At six o’clock, on the small seconds subdial, lie the date aperture and the inscriptions “Monaco Yacht Show” and “09.19” in red. The numbers 25, 26, 27 and 28 in red refer to the date of the yacht show.

The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition is powered by the UN-118 manufacture movement. This automatic calibre offers a power reserve of 60 hours (displayed at 12 o’clock).

The Torpedo Marine is perfectly adapted to the modern and urban lifestyle and convinces by its wearing comfort as well as by its aesthetics. The screw-down crown bears the engraved Ulysse Nardin logo.
The timepiece features a blue alligator leather strap with white reinforcement.

Colourful Hours with Junghans

Junghans is celebrating the 100th Bauhaus anniversary this year in a proper way. Not surprising, since hardly any school or style has influenced the Junghans models and their design as much as the Bauhaus. And, of course – how could it be otherwise – is celebrated with a special, limited edition watch. The Junghans Form A 100 Years Bauhaus is a tribute to the colour circle of Johannes Itten. As one of the first teachers at the State Bauhaus in Weimar, the Swiss painter, art theorist and art teacher developed a new theory of colour types and introduced it into his lessons. Accordingly, Junghans designed the hourly squares in the 12 colours of the Ittens colour circle.

The new colour type theory is based on the three primary colours blue, yellow and red, from which three new secondary colours emerge through mixing: orange, green and violet. The six tertiary colours are created by mixing a secondary colour with a primary colour. Johannes Itten’s colour circle consists of a total of 12 colours – as if he had already thought of a watch. The colours give the Form A a unique and colourful expression; perfect not only for artists. And not only for Bauhaus-friends and fans.

The Form A 100 Years Bauhaus is a timepiece with its own individual character and highest recognition value. It is powered by an automatic calibre, the J800.2. It shows hours, minutes and seconds via central hands and the date in a window at three o’clock. It also provides a power reserve of 38 hours. Since Junghans has equipped the Form A with a tinted mineral glass back, the owner can view the movement.
All this is built into a 39.3 mm stainless steel case. It is water resistant up to 5 bar and is worn on a stainless steel Milanaise bracelet.

Of course, Junghans delivers this special model in a special box, which picks up the Bauhaus theme again and frames each watch nicely.
The Form A 100 Years Bauhaus is limited to 1000 pieces and costs € 870.

Zenith Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon

Since the dawn of precision timekeeping, watchmakers have sought to produce timepieces that offer unfaltering performance through the use of constant force. Zenith reinterprets the fusee and chain constant force mechanism in a modernistic style in the new Defy Fusee Tourbillon.

The Defy Fusee Tourbillon is available in two distinct editions in Carbon and Platin. The first version features a light yet robust carbon case, crown and buckle head. The carbon fibre treatment even extends to the open dial, with the central skeletal element and surrounding flange ring giving off the unique simmer of this material. The second version of the Defy Fusee Tourbillon is crafted in platinum. The exposed movement provides a vibrant, voluminous view, where the mix of materials and tones add visual depth, from the anthracite base of the movement to the blued chain and tourbillon cage topped with a set of geometrical bridges in two tones.

The spoke design of the bridges is amplified by their bicolor finish, where the top satin-finished surface is given a black treatment, while its polished sides are a lighter grey rhodium tone. The layout of the bridges offers a balance of the various functions and complications. On the top half of the movement, one can admire the uniquely conceived fusee and chain constant force mechanism. On the opposite end at 6 o’clock, a tourbillon cage with an entirely new construction featuring an off-centered balance wheel makes a full rotation every 60 seconds. Like the chain, the tourbillon cage comes in a striking blue color. Positioned at the edge of the dial between 4 and 5 o’clock, a red-tipped hand indicates the power reserve, a handy feature when manually winding the Defy Fusee Tourbillon with its 50-hour power reserve.

The Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon is housing the new El Primero 4805 SK calibre, a manual-winding movement that follows the Defy code of avant-garde movement architecture with an open three-dimensional impact. By combining the fusee and chain mechanism with a tourbillon regulating organ, Zenith places precision at the forefront of its unique take on haute horlogerie.

The Defy Fusee Tourbillon in carbon is limited to 50 pieces, the second version in platin will be available only 10 times.

A new Seiko with Urushi Dial

Seiko recently introduced a new, extremely slim design in its Elegance-Collection. The combination of a new case and a hand-wound calibre with a small second and Urushi lacquer expresses the unique Japanese aesthetic of Grand Seiko.

The new Urushi creation, available in two versions, combines two outstanding Japanese crafts. Thanks to the watchmaker’s skills, every detail reflects Grand Seiko’s understated design aesthetics.
The dial and sapphire crystal are so slightly curved to give the watches a classic look. The minute hand as well as the hand of the power reserve are slightly curved to follow the contours of the dial.
The Urushi dials are made by a master craftsman. He also applies the hour markings and the letters “GS” with the traditional Maki-e technique to the dials of the watches. By applying the lacquer in layers, the markings are given a three-dimensional profile and a decentralised presence on the dial. A gold or platinum powder is then applied and the surface polished. This process gives the Maki-e its discreetly shimmering appearance.
With the dials at the centre, the subsidiary dials for the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the power-reserve indicator at 3 o’clock are subtle and understated.

The case is polished with a special Zaratsu technique that underlines the beauty of the curved surfaces. It has a diameter of 39 mm and is water-resistant up to 3 bar.
Inside works the 9S63 calibre, which is a significant addition to the ever-growing number of Grand Seiko movements. Eight years have passed since Grand Seiko unveiled its last mechanical hand-wound calibre, but we’d say it was worth the wait.
The 9S63 operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, offers a power reserve of 72 hours and is highly accurate with a deviation of +5 to -3 seconds.

The new Design Series consists of three limited editions. Seiko has combined the two Urushi versions with a red gold case and limited each to 150 pieces. The third model has a stainless steel case and a blue dial and will come in a edition of 1.500 pieces. In July, a version with a gold case will expand the collection.
All models are complemented by a crocodile leather strap.