Zenith Places Women in the Spotlight in Dubai

Zenith embarks on the debut edition of LVMH Watch Week with a new kind of innovation in its Defy collection with the Defy Midnight, a uniquely conceived line of women’s watches with a cosmic touch. In addition, the new Elite collection redefines the codes of 21st century watchmaking for the ultimate contemporary elegance.

With its new creations dedicated entirely to women, Zenith is elevating both ends of the spectrum of women’s watches. On one side, the resolutely contemporary Defy Midnight and on the other, the timelessly elegant Elite collection.
For its first purely feminine watch, Zenith sought inspiration from the cosmos. The Defy Midnight is a versatile sporty-chic timepiece with a uniquely celestial dial. As much a jewel as it is a watch, the Defy Midnight is the perfect companion for the women of today: confident, expressive and with a style of their own.

Housed in a 36mm stainless steel case embellished with brilliant-cut diamonds, the dial of the Defy Midnight gives Zenith’s “time to reach your star” philosophy a literal, visual manifestation. Available in deep blue or grey colors, the dial features a glossy finish with a vertical gradient effect for an unprecedented depth. Portraying the night sky above the endless horizon, where the dark vastness of space gives way to the glimmer of starlight, the dial has an enchanting effect. Zenith’s faceted star emblem is the highest point in the depicted night sky. Completing the celestial landscape are stars of different sizes – some of which glow in the dark.
A third dial made of white mother-pearl with a vertical gradient effect evokes moonlight on a cloudy night. White diamonds are applied on every hour marker, except at 3 o’clock where the date window is placed.

Equipped with the automatic Elite in-house movement, the Defy Midnight provides dependable precision and autonomy of 50 hours. A star-shaped oscillating weight brings a galactic element to the case-back view.

The Defy Midnight features an assortment of bracelets and straps – the integrated stainless steel bracelet as well as a selection of colored satin and leather straps – that can easily be swapped by the wearer, allowing the watch to different looks and situations.

The Watch of the Deep: Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller

This year Rolex introduced an Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller in a yellow Rolesor version, combining Oystersteel and yellow gold. This new watch brings yellow gold to the Sea-Dweller range for the first time.
The Sea-Dweller was designed in collaboration with the pioneers of professional deep-sea diving, who spent extended periods underwater. This ultra-resistant tool watch accompanied the first experimental underwater habitat programmes. It played a vital role in conquering the ocean depths thanks to the Oyster case and the helium escape valve.

A paragon of robustness and reliability, Oyster case of the Sea-Dweller is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 1,220 metres. Its middle is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosions-resistant Steel. The case back is hermetically screwed down and the winding crown, fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case.
Rolesor, the combination of gold and steel on a Rolex watch, has been a signature feature of the brand since 1933. On the new yellow Rolesor version of the Sea-Dweller, the bezel, winding crown and centre links of the bracelet are in gold, while the case and outer links of the bracelet are in steel.

The yellow Sea-Dweller-lettering is echoing the colour of the yellow gold. When the Sea-Dweller was updated in 2017, this lettering was in red, in reference to the original model.
The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date.
The helium escape valve acts as a safety valve. It allows excess pressure built up in the watch case during a dive to escape during a diver’s decompression phase in a hyperbaric chamber, while preserving the waterproofness of the watch.
The light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the profile of the Sea-Dweller’s 43-mm Oyster case, which features a unidirectional rotable bezel with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic. This ceramic is extremely corrosion-resistant and virtually scratchproof and the colours are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip, to comfortably set dive time even when wearing gloves.

The new version of the Sea-Dweller is equipped with calibre 3235, a new-generation movement. This automatic movement offers fundamental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. Like all Rolex watches, the new Sea-Dweller carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wirst.
And it provides a power reserve of up to 70 hours.

Patrimony Self-winding: Minimalist Elegance in a Midnight Blue Gown

Vacheron Constantin has introduced two new, minimalist women’s watches that combine a timeless elegance, a feminine silhouette and sparkling diamonds. The Patrimony is the ideal watch for women who are looking for an elegant, straightforward and technically demanding timepiece. The perfect form of the Patrimony self-winding is reserved, the appearance is understated, distinguished and aesthetically extremely appealing. Since 2004, the Patrimony line embodied timeless watchmaking, striking a perfect balance between classicism and modernity.

The Patrimony self-winding is available in two versions – with diameters of 36 and 36.5 mm. The pink gold cases are water-resistant up to 3 bar.
This watch is either available in a simple pink gold version or with diamonds. In the latter, the beauty of 68 round-cut diamonds carefully aligned on the bezel; and the ultimate touch of a diamond-set crown with a diamond. A spark that gives even greater intensity to the midnight to the midnight blue shimmer of the sunburst satin-finish dial.
The surface of the dial is subtly curved and punctuated by a pearl minute-track carved into the material. Sleek hour-markers, a date window at 6 o’clock, slender pink gold hours and minutes hands complemented by a slim seconds hand, delicately curved to follow the dainty outline of the dial.

Inside the Patrimony self-winding works the calibre 2450 Q6/2. This automatic movement provides a power reserve of at least 40 hours and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz. The movement and its beautifully openworked oscillating weight can be viewed through the sapphire crystal back.
Precision and reliability is what first comes to mind when we think of the movements of Vacheron Constantin. And we, like a lot of watch enthusiasts, are especially excited, when manufacturers incorporate their powerful automatic calibres (and the mechanical ones, too!) into women’s watches. The main problem is, of course, that these movements are usually bigger and heavier than quartz movements; only with the latter, the smallest women’s watches can be realized.

The minimalism, which the Patrimony self-winding radiates, is paired with a dark blue alligator leather strap, which enhances the slim design additionally.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

The new Gravity Equal Force is the newest timepiece from Armin Strom. This watch is not only demonstrating continuous innovation, one of the core principles of the manufacture, but also takes the traditional mainspring barrel and turns it on its head. The Gravity Equal Force also marks the launch of the new System 78 Collection, highlighting innovative watchmaking at a competitive price.

The inspiration behind Gravity Equal Force was a desire to transmit equal force to the balance, thereby increasing the consistency of rate. Building upon the classic stop-works mechanism, Armin Strom developed an ingenious stop-works declutch system that operates inside the mainspring barrell to limit the torque delivered to the balance, providing a smooth delivery. This represents the first time a stop-works declutch mechanism has been added to an automatic winding movement.
Not content with one innovation, Armin Strom found insight in a pocket watch in need of repair, which contained a motor barrel design showing clear advantages over the standard going barrel. So the watchmakers designed a barrel operating in the reverse of a traditional mainspring barrel driving the gong train via the barrel arbor and winding the barrel housing.
All of this is built into the new ASB19 calibre which works at a frequency of 3 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 72 hours.

The new Gravity Equal Force also differs from previous models with a new off-center dial and slimmer case with a smaller diameter. The highlight of the watch is now the triplet of bridges. Moving to an off-center dial, the Gravity Equal Force is more legible to maximize the user experience.
The 41-mm-case is a first for Armin Strom. It is shaping a new aesthetic that showcases the reduction to the essential while maintaining the essence of the manufacture’s DNA.

Armin Strom equips the Gravity Equal Force with a black alligator leather strap.

RJ: Spider-Man is back

It’s been two years since RJ has introduced its last Spider-Man watch. That’s why we were pretty euphoric when we heard about the latest collaboration with Marvel – all the more when it became clear that not just one, but two Spider-Man models came out of this association: The ARRAW Spider-Man and the ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon.

The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is an openworked watch that features many references to the comic book hero on its dial. Below that works the skeleton movement, which comes in the form of a spider’s web. The small second, which lies between 8 and 9 o’clock, sits in it in the form of a bright red spider.
The automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of at least 48 hours. RJ built all of this in a robust black carbon case that comes with a water-resistance of 10 atm.
The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is a limited edition of 100 pieces.

The ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon is the first complication that RJ developed and manufactured in-house. The tourbillon construction is entirely co-axial, with a peripheral display of the hours and minutes. This central tourbillon was developed by RJ not only because the manufacturer wanted an in-home complication, but primarily to increase the power reserve to 150 hours (or 6 days).
In order to maintain perfect symmetry, the RJ decided to design the case without a crown. The winding process is done by lifting a hoop found on the case of the back, then turning it like a key. To set the time, a concealed push button at 6 o’clock must be pressed. In order to provide maximum insight into the openworked movement, RJ opted for a sapphire crystal case back.
The case has a diameter of 45 mm, is water-resistant up to 10 atm and is made of black carbon or, in a second version, a red glass fibre composite and carbon. And it is equipped with RJ bumpers in rubber.
The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is limited to 99 pieces.

RJ offers only 10 models of every version of the ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon.

Corum and the Beauty of Mechanics

In 2013, Corum welcomed a new line to the Admiral family – the Admiral AC-One. Keeping in mind the key design codes of the Admiral collection, the lines of the iconic dodecagonal-shaped case was reworked to become more rounded, and angles less prominent. And titanium became the material of choice for this contemporary reinterpretation. Designed as a robust timepiece to complement luxury offshore boating, the Admiral AC-One 45 is even sportier, bolder and pushes the boundaries of creativity a step further.

The AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic introduces a skeletonized dial. The movement is the calibre CO 297, a new calibre, developed by Corum in-house specifically for this model. The bridges visible on the dial side were designed to be in harmony with the dodecagonal-shaped case, as well as the silhouettes of the nautical parents. A sub-dial displaying small seconds is at the 9 o’clock position, while the power reserve indicator sits at 3 o’clock.
Like the AC-One 45 Squelette, which was introduced in 2014, the architecture of the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic juxtaposes this otherwise rather bulky timepiece with a touch of lightness. But unlike the Squelette which features a completely skeletonized double-date disk, the Openwork Automatic boasts bolder lines and therefore sports a more robust and athletic look.

Corum offers the AC-One 45 Openwork Automatic in two different versions. The first, with a titanium case which adds lightness to the overall design and adds a futuristic vibe. The second version pairs contrasting rose gold with black PVD-coated titanium for a more sporty feel.

And for those of you who are looking for a more complicated mechanism, Corum has prepared the AC-One Openwork Tourbillon. It features a tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position (in addition to all the details mentioned above). Technically sophisticated and beautiful to look at.

All watches feature redesigned straps made from rubber on the surface and synthetic textile on the bottom.

Louis Erard und Alain Silberstein present two Limited Editions

Louis Erard watches are introducing a reinterpretation of the brand’s regulator watch in collaboration with the architect and watchmaker Alain Silberstein, available in two editions. This is a double first: in its 90 years of existence, Louis Erard has never given a carte blanche to a designer, while Alain Silberstein had never before designed a regulator watch.

While on the surface it may appear fun and light, this limited edition watch has hidden depth. It reflects the strategy of the Louis Erard brand, more focused than ever on its vocation as an independent watchmaker dedicated to excellence in the making of accessible watches.

The watch’s design starts with the mechanics: the brand’s regulator, an exclusive calibre made for Louis Erard. This complication goes back through the history of watchmaking. Traditionally, the principle of the regulator is to separate the indications of the hours, minutes and seconds in order to improve chronometric precision. This is a pillar of Louis Erard’s timepieces, with the regulator at the heart of its collections since the brand’s relaunch in 2003. The regulator remains more than ever at the centre of the brand’s strategy.
For Alain Silberstein, the regulator is also a technical, aesthetic and philosophical essential. For him, the regulator is the centrepiece, a model for the breaking down of time focused on the central minute hand. It is reduced to the most basic form of an indicator: an arrow. It is large and yellow on the black version, and deep blue on the white version. This minute hand points to simple lines. The rest of the dial features the same geometric simplicity: The hour hand is a large red triangle, while the seconds are indicated by a serpentine hand. The colours follow a similar logic, reduced to the basic spectrum of blue, red and yellow, inspired by the Bauhaus movement. This way, the watches pay tribute to the birthplace of modern design.

All models are powered by an automatic calibre, the ETA Peseux 7001, which is equipped with the Louis Erard RE9 complication. It operates at a frequency of 21,900 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours.

Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein have designed the cases to match the dials. They are made either of stainless steel or black PVD coated stainless steel and water resistant up to 5 atm. Depending on the colour, the watches are equipped with a black or brown calfskin strap.
As mentioned, the watches are limited editions with 178 watches each.

Ulysse Nardin Special Edition for the Monaco Yacht Show

In honor of the most prestigious yacht show in the world, Ulysse Nardin presented a new creation limited to 100 pieces with a Grand Feu enamel dial. It is part of the Marine Torpedo range, which reflects the brand’s maritime and military heritage and its mastery of this time-honoured craft.
This year’s Monaco Yacht Show once again welcomed lovers of magnificent yachts, dream destinations and luxury cruises to Port Hercule. An idyllic setting in which Ulysse Nardin, the main sponsor of the show, presented its latest creation: the Marine Torpillieur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition.
Since its very beginnings, Ulysse Nardin has focused its attention on the nautical world, and this partnership is fully in line with the manufacturer’s maritime heritage.

The new Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition reflects the full savoir-faire of Ulysse Nardin. The watches feature a Grand feu enamel dial. Ulysse Nardin benefits from the unique skills of DonzĂ© Cadrans, who specialise in producing traditional enamel dials. Enamelling on the dial is a historical decoration technique for which there is no official training and which requires a great deal of sensitivity. The term “Grand Feu Enamel” refers to the vitrification of mineral materials. All of this work is carried out by hand and it is not unheard of for the dial to break during the various stages of production, which makes these creations all the more sought after.
For the Monaco Torpedo Marine, a copper base is first dusted with enamel in white and grey and then fired in an oven. In a second step, the indices and inscriptions are applied to the dial, which is then fired again, until the new enamel layer melts with the ensemble.

The dial is fitted a diameter to the case, then the openings of the two added subdials are fit to size. The chamfering and the two subdials is adjusted using a file in order to assemble the parts. The grey dials of the power reserve and the small second are then soldered to the white dial.
The hours are indicated by elongated blue Roman numerals and pear-shaped hands in stainless steel. At six o’clock, on the small seconds subdial, lie the date aperture and the inscriptions “Monaco Yacht Show” and “09.19” in red. The numbers 25, 26, 27 and 28 in red refer to the date of the yacht show.

The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition is powered by the UN-118 manufacture movement. This automatic calibre offers a power reserve of 60 hours (displayed at 12 o’clock).

The Torpedo Marine is perfectly adapted to the modern and urban lifestyle and convinces by its wearing comfort as well as by its aesthetics. The screw-down crown bears the engraved Ulysse Nardin logo.
The timepiece features a blue alligator leather strap with white reinforcement.

Ocean Star Tribute: Mido Honours its Iconic Collection

Since the 1930s, Mido has been renowned for the ultra-high performance of its timepices’ water-resistance system. Dedicated to the undersea landscape, its Ocean Star collection is the most dazzling symbol of this technology. Launched in 1944, this family epitomises the brand’s watchmaking know-how and is not celebrating the 75th anniversary with the launch of the Ocean Star Tribute.
The Europa Point lighthouse, built to withstand all storms and guide sailors with its powerful beam of light, watches over the Street of Gibraltar. Mido’s Ocean Star collection is designed to embody the safety and reliability of this rugged yet slender structure and to help mankind in its conquest of the seas.

75 years after its first Ocean Star, Mido is launching a special edition series in homage to this iconic collection known since the 1940s for its unfailing water-resistance. These two new Ocean Star Tribute models are a contemporary reinterpretation of the diver’s watches created in the 1960s and provide numerous allusions to these historic novels.

The robust round case in polished stel is enhanced by a unidirectional rotating bezel with an aluminium ring in blue or black depending on the model. Several touches of Super-LumiNova on the bezel, hour-markers and hands ensure perfect readability whatever the diving conditions.
The hour and minute hands are flat diamond-cut, while the seconds hand is varnished in orange, the Mido colour. An aperture at 3 o’clock indicates the day and date. The dials are elegantly protected by a sapphire crystal in Mediterranean blue or deep black.

While this retro design is an emphatic tribute to the brand’s glorious past, the automatic movement that powers both of these Ocean Star Tributes makes these timepieces resolutely contemporary. With the calibre 80, the watches house a movement of the latest generation, a state-of-the-art automatic calibre with a power reserve of 80 hours. It is based on the ETA C07.621 and operates at 21,6000 vibrations per hour.
And the case back has a nice surprise in store: it is decorated with a polished starfish in relief, the historical symbol of Ocean Star. And have we mentioned that the case is water-resistant up to 20 atm?

The flexible, comfortable stainless steel multi-link bracelets gives them the great retro look that made the models successful at the time – even before the look was retro, of course.

Two New Panerai Submersible 42 mm Watches

Panerai’s collection of professional diving watches is enhanced by two models in stainless steel, with an applied ceramic disc on the rotating bezel which gives these creations a sporty look, powerful and contemporary, suitable for any wrist since the case diameter is just 42 mm.

Strong, functional and tough are the new watches immediately recognisable Panerai as personalities. Both models have an AISI 316L stainless steel case, with the iconic device protecting the winding crown and the unidirectional rotating bezel for displaying the duration of the dive, and they are water-resistant to a depth of 300 metres (30 bar).

The difference between the two new Panerai Submersibles lies in their colour schemes. In the first the dial, the ceramic disc on the rotating bezel and the rubber strap are all black, with luminous white markers clearly legible under all lightning conditions and in complete darkness; the second stylishly combines a blue ceramic disc surrounding the dial and a blue rubber strap with a distinctively textured shark grey dial. In both models the small seconds hand, essential for checking that the watch is running during a dive, is Panerai blue and rotates in the subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock, symmetrical with the date at 3 o’clock.

Two neu Panerai Submersibles in cases 42 mm diameter – an impressive size, consistent with the Panerai DNA, but suitable for any wrist – express all the power and personality of the professional diving watches made by Panerai, which for many years supplied precision to the commandos of the Italian Navy.

The two new Panerai Submersibles are fitted with the OP XXXIV Manufacture calibre, an automatic movement with a power reserve of three days, the basic standard of the House’s movements. The calibre operates with 28,800 vibrations per hour and is responsible for displaying hours, minutes, small seconds and the date.

As well as the rubber strap, these Panerai Submersible watches are supplied with a spare strap of high-tech material, tough and water-resistant.