Oris and the Mechanical Alarm in a Wristwatch

Oris revived one of its most hirstorc complications, the mechanical alarm. The new Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition breathes new life into a complication that Oris first introduced in the 1940s. Fans of the manufacturer will be pleased that Oris has based the new Alarm on the Big Crown ProPilot, the company’s iconic pilot’s watch.
After all, the story of Oris is closely linked to that of the aviation. The company was founded in 1904, at the dawn of aviation, and made its first pilot’s pocket watch in the early 1910s. That was followed by the company’s first pilot’s wristwatch in 1917. The Oris Big Crown debuted in 1938 with its oversized crown that allowed gloved airmen to make adjustments quickly and easily. Today, Oris’s pilot’s watch collection is full of watches that delights pilots and watch enthusiasts equally.

The Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition is the latest expression of Oris’s pilot’s watch tradition. The watch has two distinctive features. The first is its alarm, indicated by a central pointer hand with a bright yellow tip. The alarm can be set to the nearest 10 minutes against a scale that runs around the outside of an aperture in the middle of the dial. That aperture houses the watch’s second key feature, a circular date display. Underneath it is a rotating disc with a yellow date marker that makes a full tour of the dial once every 31 days.
As mentioned before, the Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition is aesthetically based on the familiar design of the Big Crown ProPilot. In this case, the watch has two stainless steel oversized crowns, one to set the time between 2 and 3 o’clock, and a second to set the alarm between 3 and 4 o’clock. Both crowns are made of stainless steel and screw to ensure the watch’s water resistance to 10 bar.
Otherwise, the watch retains the recognisable ProPilot look. Its signature bezel motif is inspired by jet engine turbine blades; the classic round stainless steel case and tapered lugs give the watch its stylish gait; and the fundamental dial design elements, such as the straight-edged hour and minute hands and large, luminescent Arabic numerals, remain clear and functional.

The case houses the Swiss Made automatic movement Oris Kal.910.

The Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition comes on a dark brown croco leather strap with a stainless steel folding clasp.
Oris will only be making 250 pieces of this watch.

Astronomical Single-Hand Watch: MeisterSinger Lunascope

German watch manufacturer MeisterSingers crafts mechanical watches for people who aren’t interested in counting seconds, but see the bigger picture and want so stay on track. MeisterSinger builds single-hand watches – and follows a longstanding tradition in doing so. Although the movement of the long, single hour hand is hardly noticeable to the human eye, it is as relentless as the passing of time on ancient sundials.
Our division and representation of time always followed the movement of the stars. Even back in the Middle Ages, tower clocks emulated astronomical models, preferring to recreate the mechanics of the heavens on Earth rather than wanting to show single minutes or even seconds. Now, the renowned watch designer is presenting its first astronomical watch – the Lunascope.

The slender 40-millimeter-stainless steel case of the Pangaea family forms the ideal backdrop for the dial with its unusually large moon-phase display. The upper half of the dial features a dynamic cut in which the moon moves across a dark blue, starry background. The generous diameter of this timepiece allows a realistic depiction of even fine details of the moon’s surface – just like when you’re looking up at the full moon on a clear night.

The natural impression of the Earth’s satellite corresponds to the astronomical precision with which the Lunascope presents the moon’s various phases. The moon takes 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds to circumnavigate the Earth. A lot of watches round this figure down to 29.5 days, which means their movements deviate by eight hours per year and need to be corrected by one complete day every three years. The movement specially designed for the MeisterSinger Lunascope is far more exact. Its moon-phase indicator only needs a slight adjustment after 128 years – a short period of time in astronomical terms, but a very long time in the world of watchmaking.
Since the Lunascope comes with a glass back, the Swiss automatic movement ETA 2836 can be viewed. And it provides a power reserve of 38 hours.

MeisterSinger offers the Lunascope in two versions: with a sunburst dial in the dark blue of the moon’s background or with a silvery opaline dial, on which the circular date window at 6 o’clock forms an optical contrast to the astronomical display. Both watches are completed by a calfskin strap.

Unfathomable Precision: The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth

Favre-Leuba can look back at 281 years of brand history. The watch manufacturer is known for creating an interface of traditional watchmaking and the dynamic engineering spirit of today.
In 1968, Favre-Leuba has introduced its vision of the perfect dive watch, the Bathy. It was equipped with a depth gauge and was a milestone in mechanical instrument watches. It is a much sought-after collector’s piece today and the year 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of the Bathy. The perfect time to pave the way for a new legend – and the question, if it is possible to improve on excellence. The answer can be found in the new Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth.

The retrofuturistic design is a deliberate nod to the original 1968 Bathy. From a technical standpoint, however, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an entirely new creation. Its functionality and materials have not merely been improved upon – they have set a new standard. The case design is a homage to its popular predecessor and is complemented by bold, functional colors and easy-to-read hands.

The new case is crafted from titanium and, with its 48 mm diameter, guarantees perfect readability at the bigger dial.

The depth gauge in the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth turns on one of the established rules of watchmaking completely on its head. Never let water get inside of a watch? Quite the opposite. The new Bathy features apertures in the case back that actually invite water inside. It may sound crazy, but it isn’t: these openings are part of the depth gauge, which is hermetically separated from the movement. The concept is based on the compression of a specially designed membrane that is integrated into the case back. Water enters a separate chamber through the apertures, causing the membrane to compress as the pressure increases. A mechanical contact sensor inside the watch reacts to this compression and conveys the information via the hand of the depth gauge onto the dial.
The dive depth is displayed on a nonlinear display via a central hand on the dial. Depths up to 120 m can be measured extremely precisely. The scale for the first 30 m is finer, with two red marks at 5 and 10, where decompression stops may be necessary. The Raider Bathy 120 Memo Depth also features a mechanical depth memory (MemoDepth), which stores the maximum depth reached during a dive. The depth gauge at 3 o’clock reliably displays the value until it is reset via the screw-in pusher at 4 o’clock.

The Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is water-resistant up to 200m, as is the norm for a dive watch. Its optimal range of measurement is 120 m, more than double that of the original Bathy (50 m). A built-in mechanical limiter ensures that neither the pressure membrane nor the depth gauge are damaged if the wearer dives deeper that the optimal range.
Even on ambitious dives to depth where there is little light, all of the relevant information is perfectly readable. Design and features of the Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth are inspired by the belief, that unnecessary difficulties should not get between a diver and the thrill of the dive.

Like every professional dive watch, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is fitted with an unidirectional bezel. It turns only counterclockwise so that it is only possible to accidentally move the bezel in a direction, which would subtract from the planned dive time.
The watch is powered by the FL321 hand-wound movement. It is based on the EMC 3903M caliber, which has been completely re-engineered by Favre-Leuba. It features a 65-hour power reserve and a power-reserve indicator displayed at 12 o’clock.

The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an extraordinary instrument, inspired by the original Bathy yet re-interpreted and perfected. This watch is an achievement in the development of mechanical instrument watches – and impressively stylish as well.

Die Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth ist ein außergewöhnliches Instrument, das einen neuen Maßstab in Sachen Taucheruhren setzt und dabei ihre Impulse von der Ur-Bathy bezieht und diese neue interpretiert. Fantastisch aussehen tut sie außerdem.

Hamilton Celebrates a Century of Evolution in Aviation

The Swiss watch manufacturer Hamilton is synonymous with aviation and is celebrating 100 years of timing the skies with a limited edition watch this year. These watches represent the very best of Hamilton.
Based on the original Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono, the 2018 Limited Edition is packed with aviation features for pilots and offers a technical perspective including the ground-breaking crosswind calculator of the original. Accuracy, innovation, a taste for adventure and a focus on precision have all contributed to making Hamilton the choice of professional aviators to accompany them in the cockpit.

Thanks to newly shaped hands and Super-LumiNova numerals in sand colour that glows neon green in the dark, the watch has enhanced readability. The multilevel black dial allows the eye to navigate between the three counters, the day date window at 9 o’clock and the turning inner bezels. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. The x-shape visible between the pushers and crowns surrounding the case completes the multi-dimensional theme.
With the crosswind calculator on the turning bezel, the Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono Limited Edition represents the very best of aviation timekeeping from Hamilton.

The Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono Limited Edition features a 45 mm stainless steel case which is water resistant up to 10 atm. Inside works the H-21-Si, the first Hamilton chronograph movement with a silicon hairspring. This material makes the movement more precise as silicon is non-magnetic and less sensitive to shocks. The former is an important feature for pilots because they often stay in environments with high magnetic fields such as airports. In addition, the movement has been precision certified by COSC as a chronometer.

The Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono Limited Edition is limited to 1,918 individually numbered pieces, and adorned with a H-buckle and a sturdy leather strap in typical Hamilton aviation style. There is also a metal bracelet for those who prefer a full steel look.

25th Anniversary: Seiko Grand Seiko 9F quartz caliber

In 1988, the Grand Seiko team made a new quartz caliber that was worthy of the high standards the brand was – and still is – known for. At that time, rapid advances in quartz technology were being made but most were focused on the addition of new functions. The Grand Seiko team though, decided that they could, and should, go further by focusing on the simple essentials of precision and durability. They decided that to be the “ideal” quartz watch, a new caliber was needed that would be even more precise, more durable and more in keeping with the aesthetics of Grand Seiko. Five years later, in 1993, the first 9F caliber, the 9F83, was completed.

The new caliber delivered advances in every aspects. Its hands were as long as those on every other Grand Seiko watch, the calendar change was instantaneous and the durability and reliability was enhanced. Caliber 9F incorporated key innovations such as a backlash auto-adjust mechanism to eliminate any shuddering of the second hand, a twin pulse control system to deliver increased torque and a unique protective shield to minimize the risk of dust coming into contact with the gear train or stepping motor. Still today, the caliber 9F can lay a strong claim to being the highest performance quartz watch in the world.

The new limited edition pays proud homage to the 1993 design. Its case and bracelet retain the soft contours of the original. There are, however, stylistic enhancements. In line with contemporary taste, the case is slightly larger, the Grand Seiko name is now at the 12 o’clock position and the dial carries a special pattern based on the traditional quartz symbol with, above the six o’clock marker, the 5-pointed star which, symbolises the extraordinary precision rate of +5 to -5 seconds a year.
This commemorative watch is offered in a limited series of 1,500 and will be available from April.

A second limited edition also commemorates the 25th anniversary of the caliber 9F. The case design is a contemporary re-interpretation of the celebrated 44GS from 1967 and showcases the beauty of the finishing on the 9F movement through an exhibition case back. The robust construction is clear to see and the striped pattern of the engraving bears witness to the care taken on the finishing on ever 9F movement, which, albeit hidden behind the case back in every other model, is assembled and finished by hand to the same high standard.
The dial, with its special markings and star symbol, is the same as on the first commemorative edition. The bezel is in gold. It is a limited edition of 600 pieces and will be available in May.

The case of both watches is made from stainless steel with a diameter of 39.1 mm and a water resistance of 10 bar.
Both watches are completed by a stainless steel bracelet.

German Watches for the Austrian Air Force

The german-based watchmaker Hanhart from the southern Black Forest can look back on a long history in the production of aviator chronographs. So it should come to no surprise, that when a structural change within the Army and the re-establishment of the Command of the Austrian Air Forces in 2017 the Command inspired to design a limited edition of aviator watches, Hanhart was chosen as partner in this project.
The Primus Austrian Air Force Pilot Limited Edition combines the virtues of the Austrian Air Force such as precision, endurance and resilience with the principles of Hanhart: reliability, perfect legibility, ease of use and robustness. This chronograph combines the characteristic features of both sides, which are required for a perfect pilot’s chronograph.

The dial is, like in all Hanhart Primus watches, wonderfully distinctive. The bright luminescent numerals and indexes together with the red Hanhart details create a clear contrast to the black basic design of the chronograph and thereby contribute to a superb legibility. The unique fluted bezel with inlaid red marking, the typical “bicompax” dial arrangement and the anodized aluminium red button reflect the typical features of the watch manufacturer. The chronograph provides central hours and minutes, a small seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a date display at 6 o’clock. The chronograph seconds are  counted by the central seconds hand.

The new timepiece from Hanhart is available in three different versions of case and bracelet. The chronograph can be ordered in a normal, a matt sandblasted or a black DLC coated stainless steel case. Despite the size of 44 mm in diameter and 15 mm in height, the flexible lugs provide a comfortable fit on the wrist. The case of the Primus Austrian Air Force Pilot Limited Edition is water resistant up to 10 bar.
Inside works the automatic chronograph movement HAN3809. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours when fully wound.

The bracelets are available in calfskin, vulcanized rubber and canvas; each comes with a folding clasp made from stainless steel and matching the case.
This chronograph is a limited edition of 100 pieces. Prices start at 2.590€ for the regular stainless steel one and go up to 3.090€ for the DLC coated one.

Bell & Ross: BR03-94 Horolum & BR03-92 Horoblack

Bell & Ross, a reference in the field of professional aviation watches, with its square iconic shape and graphic lines, launched its Horo line last year with the BR03-92 Horolum. This year, the brand presents two novelties: the BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack. Their name comes from “Horo”, which is a reference to Bell & Ross’ concept using matt micro blasted steel on the boxes and dials and a sandwich dial for an optimal readability.
The BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack reflect the spirit of Bell & Ross instrument watches. The case is designed in a contemporary style boasting the iconic shape of the house, a circle in a square that is reminiscent of the silhouette of a cockpit clock. They both have micro blasted steel caps and dials, which gives them a monobloc effect.

Steel blasting involves high-pressure spraying of tiny glass beads on the metal’s surface. This treatment “depolishes” the surface giving it a uniform appearance and a grey tone. The finish is matte, and therefore, anti-reflective. It also avoids reverberations in the sun. This process reinforces their graphic look and utilitarian purpose. The cases are water-resistant up to 10 atm and measure 42 mm in diameter.
The common feature of both watches is the sandwich construction of the dial, which consists of two superimposed metal plates. The main characteristic of the “Horo” models is the best readability at all times.

BR03-94 Horolum

This chronograph brings to mind light and readability. Super-LumiNova treatment facilities reading during the day and at nighttime. The color used for lighting landing strips, an intense green light that illuminates the tracks in the dark, is also used in the dial. It offers excellent luminescence and night readability. The indexes and giant numbers 12 and 6 are very legible and painted on the bottom plate. With its unparalleled brilliance, the green tinted Super-LumiNova is ultra-phosphorescent and lasts a long time in the dark. It allows a persistent reading during the night hours. The dial has two counters for calculating short times and a tachymeter scale on the flange.
The BR03-94 Horolum is powered by the automatic mechanical movement, the calibre BR-CAL.301. It features hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock; a date at 4.30 and a chronograph for short time periods – a 30-minute timer at 9 o’clock and central chronograph seconds.
The BR03-94 is mounted on a grey-green calfskin strap and is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

BR03-92 Horoblack

This watch features a simple and uncluttered display that features a graphic dial with clear indications. The design is simple. The bar indexes and the four numbers 12, 3, 6, and 9 enable an easy reading. This type of display is a classic at Bell & Ross, and its effectiveness is very well established. The identical finish of the box and the dial establishes a homogeneous block of the same hue. Indexes and hands play on the black and gray contrast, which guarantees optimal readability.
the BR03-92 Horoblack is powered by the calibre BR-CAL.302, an automatic movement which features hours, minutes, seconds and a date.
This three-hands model comes in a limited edition of 999 pieces.

The BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack instrument watches have been designed according to the principles of industrial design. Based on a square case, with pure and simple lines, they return to basics. The contemporary timepieces have their character and evoke the realm of the air: They share a minimalist design, hyper-readability and the micro blasted steel gives them modernity and purity.

Girard-Perregaux launches the Laureato Chronograph

Two years after its return to the Girard-Perregaux collections, the Laureato is writing a new chapter in its history, with the introduction of an enriched range of chronographs. In this extension of an eminently sporting chic collection, the Laureato once again demonstrates the strength and relevance of the design of this iconic watch, born in 1975.
This timepiece is designed for daily use. Entirely clad in steel or pink gold, available with two different case sizes and interpreted in three dial colours, the Laureato Chronograph is a versatile watch. Equally at ease in smart or informal attire, it is capable of adapting to every daily circumstance encountered by an elegant man.

The dial, adorned as ever with the “Clou de Paris” hobnail pattern, comes in a choice of silver-toned, black or deep-blue versions. The two counters and small seconds subdial all feature a snailed finish that ensures they stand clearly against the background. They bear simple and slender hands facilitating reading without overloading the dial.
At 6 o’clock you’ll find the small seconds, opposite, at 9 o’clock the 30-minute-counter and at 6 o’clock the 12-hour-counter. At 4.30 you’ll find a date window.

Girard-Perregaux has fitted the emblematic case with a chronograph movement. The Laureato Chronograph is endowed with the powerful identity of all Laureato models. This personality all its own is based on a genetic code that has been driving evolutions in its aesthetic details for the past 43 years, while never distorting its essence. The Laureato is defined by a polished octagonal bezel fitted on an integrated case, meaning with no lugs or loops; as well as by its metal bracelet forming a natural extension of the case and representing an original design element in its own right. The exterior of the Laureato case has evolved to incorporate a crown guard, a curve naturally imposed by the pushers themselves. The latter are octagon-shaped like the bezel, creating protuberances that the Laureato Chronograph incorporates with natural ease.
The stainless steel case is water resistant up to 10 bar, the one made of gold up to 5 bar.

The new Laureato Chronographs are powered by the calibre GP03300-0122/0137/0138 (42 mm) respectively the GP03300-0134/0136/0137 (38 mm). the self-winding mechanical movement drives two counters, small seconds as well as a date display. As well as guaranteeing impeccably accurate timekeeping, the calibre provides a comfortable power reserve of 46 hours and works at a frequency at 4 Hz. Its horological qualities are complemented by exemplary finishing including Gôtes de Genève, chamfering and straight graining. 

The metal bracelet is distinguished by wide satin-brushed H-shaped links as well as domed and polished interlink elements. The interplay of polished and satin-brushed surfaces creates heightened visual interest and enlivens the watch. The Laureato Chronograph can also be bought with a leather bracelet, in this case, Girard-Perregaux also delivers an additional rubber strap.

Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear

The Regulator was the first stand-alone model in the history of Chronoswiss and in subsequent years, it quickly became the brand’s central motif and standard bearer. It is therefore only logical that the design team pays special attention to the Regulator on its 30th birthday, which is also the 35th anniversary of Chronoswiss itself. Following the 3D dials and skeletonizations of recent years, the manufacturer is now introducing the Flying Regulator Open Gear, a model which provides unexpected insights.

To produce a Regulator, a modification of the movement is necessary. Normally, it is hidden from prying eyes underneath the dial. But in this new version it has not only been made visible but also showcased as a central design element, hence the name “Open Gear”.
Its dial is simultaneously its module board, onto which the train wheel bridges of the skeletonized gears are mounted. These move on four ruby bearings, generating the least possible friction. The train wheel bridges have also been skeletonized and boast carefully angled and polished edges. Six screws keep them reliably in their intended place on the dial. This is how functional design is done.
At 6 o’clock on the dial, the Flying Regulator Open Gear reveals an exciting insight. The dial and the bridge have been skeletonized at the height of the small second so that you can see the second wheel in action. As the associated seconds scale – just like the display at 12 o’clock – floats above the dial on a funnel-like display, the gaze is virtually drawn towards the inner workings and to the seconds wheel, designed to look like a rotary dial.
Super-LumiNova inlays on the hands and indexes ensure best legibility, even in the dark.

Chronoswiss offers the timepiece in four different color combinations: in purist stainless steel with dials in galvanic blue, black or silver, or timeless elegant in a red gold case with a galvanic silver dial.

The Flying Regulator Open Gear is a pure Chronoswiss development – from the design to the dial module.
This watch will only be available as a limited edition.

Hublot Big Bang Depeche Mode “The Singles” Limited Edition

Hublot and Depeche Mode are releasing a collector’s edition series of 55 unique Big Bang watches, inspired by each of the band’s 55 singles. All net proceeds from the sale will benefit charity: water. Hublot and Depeche Mode work together since 2010 – always for the benefit of the NGO.
One of the most influential, beloved and best-selling musical acts of all time, Depeche Mode have sold over 100 million records worldwide and have played to more than 30 million fans since their formation in 1981. And, in their 37-year career, Depeche Mode have released an incredible 55 singles, from “Dreaming of Me” in 1981 to last year’s release of “Cover Me”.
In tribute to this achievement, the Swiss watchmaker Hublot introduces a collection of 55 unique pieces of its Big Bang Unico Model. “We are greatly honoured and moved by Hublot’s support of charity: water with this new collection of watches commemorating all of our singles,” says Martin Gore, Depeche Mode’s main songwriter and founding member. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, is also thrilled about the collaboration: “Depeche Mode are iconic in the history of contemporary music. We identify with their passion, stronger now than ever, and with their constantly growing creativity. We are lucky enough to share many values with them, including the commitment to the activities of the charity: water NGO.”

As previously mentioned are all 55 models unique pieces, basing on Hublot’s Big Bang. Each of the watches features, on its dial, a disc that partially shows the image of the record cover it represents, which is reminiscent of the very first model produced by the partnership between Hublot and Depeche Mode. The back of each watch features the entire cover of the single as well as the charity: water logo.
The case has a diameter of 45 mm and is made from polished black ceramic. They are water resistant up to 10 atm.
All  Big Bang Depeche Mode “The Singles” watches are powered by UNICO movements. Produced by the Hublot manufacture. The automatic calibre HUB1242 is a flyback self-winding movement chronograph; it works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

Jedes Modell ist mit einem Armband in einer speziellen Farbe ausgestattet.
Die Kollektion ist mit dem UNICO Werk aus Hublots eigener Manufaktur ausgestattet. Das Kaliber HUB1242 ist ein Automatikwerk mit Flyback-Chronograph und bietet eine Gangreserve von 72 Stunden. Es arbeitet mit 4 Hz oder 28.800 Halbschwingungen pro Stunde.

Each piece will be fitted with a strap in a colour specific to each model, completed with cuff straps in the same hue, and rock-and-roll inspired rubber studs.
A Roland JP-08 synthesiser will accompany each timepiece.  The Roland JP-08 is a limited-edition synth module from the Roland Boutique series, paying homage to the legendary Roland Jupiter 8 synth, used by Depeche Mode throughout the years.