The new Gravity Equal Force is the newest timepiece from Armin Strom. This watch is not only demonstrating continuous innovation, one of the core principles of the manufacture, but also takes the traditional mainspring barrel and turns it on its head. The Gravity Equal Force also marks the launch of the new System 78 Collection, highlighting innovative watchmaking at a competitive price.
The inspiration behind Gravity Equal Force was a desire to transmit equal force to the balance, thereby increasing the consistency of rate. Building upon the classic stop-works mechanism, Armin Strom developed an ingenious stop-works declutch system that operates inside the mainspring barrell to limit the torque delivered to the balance, providing a smooth delivery. This represents the first time a stop-works declutch mechanism has been added to an automatic winding movement. Not content with one innovation, Armin Strom found insight in a pocket watch in need of repair, which contained a motor barrel design showing clear advantages over the standard going barrel. So the watchmakers designed a barrel operating in the reverse of a traditional mainspring barrel driving the gong train via the barrel arbor and winding the barrel housing. All of this is built into the new ASB19 calibre which works at a frequency of 3 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 72 hours.
The new Gravity Equal Force also differs from previous models with a new off-center dial and slimmer case with a smaller diameter. The highlight of the watch is now the triplet of bridges. Moving to an off-center dial, the Gravity Equal Force is more legible to maximize the user experience. The 41-mm-case is a first for Armin Strom. It is shaping a new aesthetic that showcases the reduction to the essential while maintaining the essence of the manufacture’s DNA.
Armin Strom equips the Gravity Equal Force with a black alligator leather strap.
Timepieces from Glashütte have long been valued around the world for their high-quality mechanics, elaborate finishes and timeless elegance. Since the 19th century, precise timekeepers from Glashütte have also been used as reliable instruments for navigation and for determining one’s position on land, at sea and in the air. Based on its rich fund of experience and its historic heritage, Glashütte Original now presents a fifth collection after historic marine chronometers, observation watches, pilot and diver’s watches: the “Spezialist”. It is aimed at the fearless man who actively creates his own life. The premiere model in this new collection is the diver’s watch SeaQ, which unites history and modernity in exemplary fashion. The “Spezimatic Type RP TS 200” developed specifically for sports divers, served as an ideal example and inspiration for the new diver’s watch.
The SeaQ is available in two versions: as the SeaQ in both a limited and an unlimited version, and as the SeaQ Panorama Date with black or blue dial. Fifty years ago, high quality and complex functionality were already key features of Glashütte-made watches. With its limited edition SeaQ 1969, the manufactory takes up this tradition, citing the historic inscription on the black dial and the number of jewels. “Shockproof” refers to the construction of the diver’s watch, renowned even then for its particularly stable design. The green hands and the “Old Radium” shade of beige on the Arabic numerals and indexes also derive from the historic predecessors. The engravings on the base plate offer decorative enhancement in the form of the trident maritime symbol, the Glashütte Original Double-G and 20 waves, which symbolize the 20 bar water resistance.
The black dial of the unlimited version of the SeaQ presents Arabic numerals, indexes and hands accentuated with the historic “Old Radium” hue. This version also features an engraved base plate.
The SeaQ Panorama Date features the characteristic big date of Glashütte Original, which is harmoniously positioned at 4 o’clock. The dial – optionally either black or blue with a sunray finish – presents the hands, applied Arabic numerals and indexes in green or white, respectively.
Its water resistance up to 20 bar (approx. 20 metres) makes the SeaQ well equipped for changes in pressure underwater, even at greater depths. The second model, the SeaQ Panorama Date, is even water resistant up to 30 bar and therefore perfectly suitable even for professional divers. This essential water resistance of both models is enhanced by numerous details, such as the screw-down crown, the secured base plate on the SeaQ or the screwed sapphire crystal case back on the SeaQ Panorama Date.
As genuine diver’s watches, all versions feature a unidirectional, counter-clockwise rotating bezel with perceptible click, enabling certain determination of the dive time. The SeaQ convinces with a clear minute-detent and the Super-LumiNova coated triangle marking the dive start time. The ceramic inlay makes the bezel surface exceptionally scratch-resistant. The SeaQ 1969 and the SeaQ are both powered by the manufactory’s automatic movement Calibre 39-11, which features a power resistance of 40 hours, a stop-second mechanism and a date display at 3 o’clock. Glashütte Original has built it into a stainless steel case, 39.5 mm in diameter.
For the SeaQ Panorama Date, the Glashütte watchmakers have successfully adapted the Calibre 36 to meet the challenges of timekeeping underwater. In the 36-13 version, it beats precise and stable, anchored shock-resistant in a 43.2 mm case and with a remarkable power reserve of 100 hours.
The SeaQ 1969 is available in a limited edition of 69 pieces. It comes with two alternative straps: a rubber one and one made from nylon mesh. The SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date is additionally offered with a stainless steel strap.
It’s been two years since RJ has introduced its last Spider-Man watch. That’s why we were pretty euphoric when we heard about the latest collaboration with Marvel – all the more when it became clear that not just one, but two Spider-Man models came out of this association: The ARRAW Spider-Man and the ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon.
The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is an openworked watch that features many references to the comic book hero on its dial. Below that works the skeleton movement, which comes in the form of a spider’s web. The small second, which lies between 8 and 9 o’clock, sits in it in the form of a bright red spider. The automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of at least 48 hours. RJ built all of this in a robust black carbon case that comes with a water-resistance of 10 atm. The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is a limited edition of 100 pieces.
The ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon is the first complication that RJ developed and manufactured in-house. The tourbillon construction is entirely co-axial, with a peripheral display of the hours and minutes. This central tourbillon was developed by RJ not only because the manufacturer wanted an in-home complication, but primarily to increase the power reserve to 150 hours (or 6 days). In order to maintain perfect symmetry, the RJ decided to design the case without a crown. The winding process is done by lifting a hoop found on the case of the back, then turning it like a key. To set the time, a concealed push button at 6 o’clock must be pressed. In order to provide maximum insight into the openworked movement, RJ opted for a sapphire crystal case back. The case has a diameter of 45 mm, is water-resistant up to 10 atm and is made of black carbon or, in a second version, a red glass fibre composite and carbon. And it is equipped with RJ bumpers in rubber. The RJ ARRAW Spider-Man is limited to 99 pieces.
RJ offers only 10 models of every version of the ARRAW Spider-Man Tourbillon.