Archiv für den Monat: August 2016

The 22nd Model for the 20th Anniversary: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

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In 2016, Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar, which only needs to be corrected once a year, is celebrating its 20th anniversary. To commemorate this occasion, the manufacture has launched a new model of this complication. This watch (Ref. 5396) has been subtly reworked and refined and logically complements the 21 previous models that have been presented since 1996.

Patek_Philippe_Annual_Calendar_3

The new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is available in white gold with a dark gray sunburst dial and in rose gold with a silvery white opaline dial. Both models look familiar yet at the same time appear to be totally new. Familiar because of the style elements that dominate the series for years, and new because these elements have never before been combined this way.
The round of the case merges gracefully with the strap lugs, and a smoothly polished bezel frames the dial. The sapphire-crystal glass is prominently cambered, endowing the watch with volume and a modern look. You can easily spot the Calatrava personality in this one, which is somewhat of the archetype of all classic round watches.

The dial features an in-line double aperture in the upper half that displays the day of the week on the left and the month on the right. The date display is positioned in a large aperture at 6 o’clock. Together with the double aperture, it frames the 24-hour subsidiary dial with the moon-phase display in the lower half of the dial to assure a visually balanced configuration.
This layout is reminiscent of Patek Philippe perpetual calendars from the 1940s and 50s. The main difference lies in the position of the analog date scale, which is occupied by the 24-hour dial, which doubles as a day/night indication in the Ref. 5396.
The time is indicated in classic fashion: A peripheral circle of small gold minute markers frames the Breguet numerals. They harmonize great with the Dauphine-style hour and minute hands as well as with the long, slender sweep seconds hand.

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The heart of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396 is a self-winding mechanical movement that correctly displays the calendar information for an entire year. Much of the finesse of the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H is visible through the sapphire-crystal case back.

And: good news for everyone who fell in love with this gorgeous timepiece: This anniversary edition is not a limited one.

For the Ladies: Malte Tourbillon Openworked

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The Malte collection from Vacheron Constantin with its emblematic barrel shape gets two new members. The pink gold creations are joining this collection epitomising a blend of distinctive presence and understatement. This interpretation of the Malte Tourbillon Openworked reveals its airy geometry playing with light and shade.
In 2014, Vacheron Constantin created Caliber 2780 SQ – a barrel-shaped caliber that was also skeletonised – beating at the heart of a Malte Tourbillon Openworked in a platinum case. The collection is now joined by a Malte Tourbillon Openworked model with a pink gold case.

Malte 30135-000R-8973

Firmly rooted in the Vacheron Constantin aesthetic heritage since 1912, the tonneau shape is interpreted in the Malte collection through a range of creations. These models feature a distinctively curved design, contemporary lines and an understated display. This curved case middle perfectly moulding the shape of the wrist symbolises the Malte collection and its two new references. It measures 38 x 48,2 mm and is water-resistant up to 3 bar.
Inside the case lays an entirely openworked and hand-engraved barrel-shaped tourbillon movement. Alternating shadow and light effects enable the Vacheron Constantin Caliber 2790 SQ to reveal an original architectural decor playing with geometrical shapes. The hand-engraved three-dimensional mosaic is enhanced by a Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon.
Around 540 hours of workmanship (from the development of the caliber to the manual finishing of each of its 246 components) are required to achieve the balance between a tourbillon mechanism and the openworked aesthetic.

Coated in pink gold, this mechanism powering indications of the hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve, appears through a transparent sapphire dial rimmed by a silver-toned ring and punctuated by 11 baton-type hour-markers as well as an applied Roman (XII) numeral in pink gold.

The curved shape and the inherent style of this watch is complemented by an alligator leather brown strap secured by a folding clasp.