Van Cleef and Arpels Midnight Planetarium watch

The Midnight Planetarium watch from Van Cleef and Arples has one extraordinary look. With this watch you wear an entire solar system on your wrist. And you are way deep in the world of haute horology.

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To get the exceptional representation of the solar system right, Van Cleef & Arpels enlisted the help of the foremost astronomical horloger, Christian Van der Klaauw.

The Midnight Planetarium is part of Van Cleef & Arpels‘ „Poetic Complications collection“. This collection features wristwatches with elegant mechanical animations and the Midnight Planetarium is not the first astronomy themed watch with a star chart in it.
Although planetarium watches tend to be more visually interesting than attractive, Van Cleef & Arpels makes an excellent case for the „pretty planetarium“.

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It may sound really surprising, but this complicated watch is relatively easy to use. Usability was a key consideration of Van Cleef & Arpels. The planetary mechanism should be both: easy to operate and elegant – which was the most difficult part of the entire designing process. Two pushers control the day, the month and the year.

The dial of the watch is composed entirely of rings of solid aventurine. Since the stone is difficult to cut precisely, there were some challenges, but in the end Van Cleef & Arpels was able to manufacture discs with flatter surfaces, resulting in a more elegant dial. The aventurine provides the sparkly deep blue backdrop which look absolutely amazing.
Each of the aventurine rings moves independently around the dial. Six planets are included in the dial, each represented by a stone sized accordingly. At the center, a solid pink gold sphere represents the sun. The movement and orientation of the planets is accurately represented as they are in reality. To revolve around the dial just once completely, the gemstone representing Saturn needs 29 years.

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A pink shooting star acts as the hour indicator, attached to its own solid aventurine disc that rotates along a 24-hour scale. Time telling legibility isn’t exactly a major focus of the design, that’s why there’s no minute hand and the Midnight Planetarium can be considered as a single-handed watch. The date is shown on the back of the watch through the sapphire crystal back. There is also a reminder, which stone on the dial is representing which planet.

The Midnight Planetarium Poetic complication is the most complicated watch to date offered by Van Cleef & Arpels. Over the course of two-and-a-half-years was a custom planetarium module developed, which is integrated into a movement by The Richemont Group’s in-house Stern manufacture. The movement totals 396 parts all together. It’s an automatic movement. This is necessary because of the real-time movement of the planets on the dial. Most planets have long orbits and the initial adjustment of a watch like this is a chore best left to a professional. When not worn on the wrist the Midnight Planetarium can be kept on a winder, so the planetarium complication is not too far off at any given time.

The case is 44 mm in diameter and about 13 mm in height. The sapphire crystal that covers the dial is domed, allowing the gemstones sufficient room to move. The bezel is rotating and actually moving the sapphire crystal and with it a small star shape on the crystal. This is the „lucky star“, which highlights a special event in the life of the watches owner.

This magnificent watch is priced at $245.000. More expensive is the version with the diamond bezel, but this is absolutely optional.

The Louis Monet Jurassic Watch

JURASSIC_LM345001_WHITE_LDThe Jurassic Watch from Louis Monet is beautiful, unusual and exceptional. The watch derived from the Mecanograph family and comes wigh a dial made from Jurassic-era dinosaur bone aged between 145 and 200 years old.

Seriously? Seriously! A dial made from a genuine fossilized 150-million-year-old dinosaur bone. As if the dials made from lunar meteorietes and other rocks from the far-flung corners of the universe, used in the Mecanograph City watches wouldn’t have been enough.

Above all, the watch is powered by the highly accurate certified Mecanograph chronometer, which features a date window located at 3 o’clock and uses the exclusive Engergie Plus process, unveiled by Louis Moinet at the Baselworld 2015.
The Energie Plus makes it possible to wind up the watch in both directions, with a minimum of excess travel. This optimizes each movement of the rotor, recovering its energy and winding the movement more effecitvely.

The dials are only 0.65 mm thick in the end and the handiwork takes over a week to finish. The color and vein of the fossils need excellent craftsmanship.

The chronometer certified movement lies in a 43.5 mm wide case, made from rose gold. Apart from the date window the dial also shows seconds hand at 9 o’clock.

This is a limited edition of 12 watches.

Longines Pulsometer Chronograph – for the medical professional

Longines is reissuing the Pulsometer Chronograph. It stands out for its retro-styling dial that features an unusual chronograph scale. Although a tachymeter, used for measuring speed over a known distance, is a common chronograph scale seen on sports watches, there are other types of scales that look more at home on the face of a dress watch.

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The Longines Pulsometer Chronograph is a reissue of a watch once used by medical professional to test a patient’s heart rate. The design is based on a watch from the 1920s, putting its faith in bold, contrasting colors.
The steel hands are Breguet-style and they are looking beautiful against the clean background of the dial and the dial printing in black and red makes this watch legible despite having a lot of information displayed in a small space.

The scaled-back design makes the Pulsometer Chronograph elegant; the designers have removed extraneous components. The chronograph counter must be eminently legible for medical use, so the 3 and 9 hour markers have been removed to give the sub-dials space. The 6 o’clock marker gives way to a date window.

The pulsometer function is easy to use – you start the chronograph and count 30 seconds heart beats. After stopping the chronograph the blue chronograph-seconds will be pointing at the correct heart rate.
Inside is the L188.2 movement working, a self-winding colum-wheel chronograph with a 54 hour power reserve. The movement layout is that of an ETA 7750, but Longines has made a couple of major alterations to it.

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The watch is smart and simple, made of stainless steel. It is water resistant to 30 meters. The case is 40 mm in diameter not including the crown at 3 o’clock. So the Pulsometer is designed to fit smoothly under a sleeve without grabbing much attention. The strap is made from brown alligator leather which compliments the color palette of the dial.