Porsche Design Expands 1919 Collection

Prosche Design has introduced a new watch this spring; an expansion of the 1919 collection: the 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather. It is the first flyback chronograph in the series. Porsche Design is known for its understated design language which is found in all of its objects. Straightforward, purist, and uncompromisingly functional is the overall motto which is also evident in the 1919 Collection. It is inspired by the purist design and functional aesthetics of the Porsche 911.

In order to intuitively display the time from every angle, the radius of the dial is as large as possible. With this task in mind a slim titanium case with bold minute indices positioned on the outer edges of the dial was created, foregoing a tachymeter bezel. Hours, minutes and the chronograph seconds are displayed by central hands; at 12 o’clock is the subdial for the chronograph minutes positioned, at 6 o’clock the one for the chronograph hours. At 4 o’clock a date window can be found.
The lugs are entirely integrated into the strap in order to achieve significantly more ergonomic stability; and through uniform force distribution. The case measures 42 mm in diameter and 14,9 mm in height; it is both polished and matte and water resistant up to 10 bar.

The 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather is powered by the 01.200 calibre. Porsche Design has introduced it in June 2017 for the first time. The flyback chronograph, which allows the measurement of successive intervals. The automatic movement is beating at 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 48 hours. It is also completely black (the PVD coating also extends to the rotor), a standard for Porsche Design, and can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back.

Das ausbalancierte Design verleiht dem Chronographen eine herrliche Leichtigkeit, welche durch das Armband ideal unterstrichen wird.
Die Farbgebung in einem tiefen Braunton verleiht dem 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather eine betont zeitgemäße Note, ohne seine zeitlos anmutende Persönlichkeit zu beeinträchtigen.

The well-balanced design gives a unique visual-lightness to the watch, which is further enhanced by the elegantly proportioned strap.
The deep brown hue lends the 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather a contemporary touch, without compromising its timeless characteristics.

The 1919 Chronotimer Flyback Brown & Leather will be available as of September 2018 at Porsche Design stores as well as online for 5.950€.

Baselworld 2018: The New Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi 126710 BLRO

Rolex has introduced a few new watches at the Baselworld 2018 – a new Rainbow Daytona amongst others – but the new GMT Master II Pepsi 126710 BLRO has caused the most stir. Why? Well, it comes with a new movement and a new bracelet, but, most of all, it’s steel. Steel? This is what the fuss is all about? Yes, yes it is.

Rolex already offers other versions of the GMT Master II in steel, but the “Pepsi” was only available in white gold till now. And this is the first time Rolex has introduced a new version in steel and not in gold. Of course, there is a hefty difference in price and many fans and collectors don’t consider a massive gold Rolex quite the everyday piece. That’s different now and with the new GMT Master II Pepsi in Steel Rolex heard the call of the customer, implementing what many wished for.

Rolex has redesigned the Oyster case a bit, also the lugs are a bit slimmer than in the previous models. it is combined with an emblematic bezel featuring a Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic.
Of course, the GMT Master II features two different time zones, making it the perfect wristwatch for the frequent traveller. In addition to conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, which display the local time (the time in the wearer’s current location), the GMT Master II features an arrow-tipped hand which circles the dial once every 24 hours, which is completed in its function by the 24-hour graduated bidirectional bezel.
The adjustment of the local time can be made independently of the minute and seconds hands, and without affecting the 24-hour hand. The time in an alternative time zone can be displayed by turning the rotatable bezel.

The new GMT Master II is powered by a brand new movement, the calibre 3285. This self-winding mechanical movement offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance.
The calibre lies in the classic Oyster case which guarantees a water resistance of 10 bar.

The Jubilee bracelet which completes the new GMT Master II is also new, comes with a sporty look and combines matte with polished surfaces.
This watch comes at 8.400€. That’s a price-performance ratio we can live with.

Always Trending: Chronographs

Since the first chronographs were introduced, they became hugely popular and with good reason. Some feature a tachymeter scale with which lap times can be calculated, some show chronograph hours and minutes, some only minutes. All of them feature subdials and a small second. Apart from these functions, chronographs are also popular because of there sporty looks – but many of them can also be worn to the office without difficulty – they are just gloriously versatile.
We are introducing five of them today.

Two chronographs of Chrono Diamond made the cut. The first one is the Argos, named after the hero of the same name and fellow of Jason from the argonaut myth of Apollonios of Rhodos. And the watch ought to accompany its owner just as reliably. Its design is reduced and simply elegant. It shows hours, minutes, the running seconds at 9 o’clock, the chronograph minutes at 3 and the chronograph hours at 6 o’clock. The Argos shows day and month in two windows at 12 o’clock; the date is shown by a fourth central hand with a small crescent moon tip.
The Argos is powered by a quartz movement and you’ll have the choice between twelve different models: in stainless steel, with gold and pink gold PVD-coating and different coloured dials. All variations come with a leather bracelet.

The Chrono Diamond Nestor stands out with a dial that accentuates the functions of the subdials extravagantly. At 2.30 o’clock you’ll find the running seconds, at 6 o’clock the chronograph hours and at 10.30 the chronograph minutes. At 4 o’clock a small date window is placed. The dial is textured and of course, it bears the for Chrono Diamond characteristic diamonds.
Chrono Diamond offers nine different versions of the Nestor; with dark and fair dials, in stainless steel and with gold PVD-coating, with a metal bracelet or leather strap. All of them are powered by a reliable quartz movement. All-Chrono Diamond watches are Swiss Made.

The Festina Chrono Bike-Line has a longstanding tradition and is a hommage to bicycle racing. So it is no surprise that the watch manufacturer could win Richard Virenque as ambassador. The french road racing cyclist was a climber, winning the King of the Mountains competition of the Tour de France a record of seven times. During his active time he was part of the Festina Team and the partnership between them remains to this day.
The Chrono Bike chronographs come in a variety of designs. The latest model features a stainless steel 44-mm-case, the dial is protected by mineral glass. The subdials for the running seconds, chronograph minutes and chronograph hours contrast sharply with the rest of the dial.

The Longines Conquest V.H.P. comes in many different colours and designs; some in stainless steel and some in black PVD-coating. The sober case is complemented by an articulate dial. Except for the big Arabic 12, Longines opted for plain indices which are equipped with the same greenish lume as the minute and hour hands. Red accents highlight the chronograph functions – the central seconds hand, the hands of the chronograph minutes at 3 o’clock and the chronograph hours at 9 o’clock. The subdial at 6 o’clock shows the running seconds.
The Conquest V.H.P. is powered by an reliable, high-quality ETA quartz movement.

The last chronograph we’re introducing in this feature is the rugged Mathieu Legrand Avant-Garde. This model is for fans of larger, more masculine watches. The indices, the big Arabic 12, as well as the hour and minute hands are generously coated with lume, so perfect readability is given at all times, even in the dark. The chronograph seconds and the subdials are highlighted with colour. At 4.30 you’ll find a big date window.
The Avant-Garde is powerd by a Swiss made quartz movement and comes in four different versions – three with a black, one with a fair dial; in stainless steel, with a PVD-coating in gold or in a bi-colour design.

Oris and the Mechanical Alarm in a Wristwatch

Oris revived one of its most hirstorc complications, the mechanical alarm. The new Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition breathes new life into a complication that Oris first introduced in the 1940s. Fans of the manufacturer will be pleased that Oris has based the new Alarm on the Big Crown ProPilot, the company’s iconic pilot’s watch.
After all, the story of Oris is closely linked to that of the aviation. The company was founded in 1904, at the dawn of aviation, and made its first pilot’s pocket watch in the early 1910s. That was followed by the company’s first pilot’s wristwatch in 1917. The Oris Big Crown debuted in 1938 with its oversized crown that allowed gloved airmen to make adjustments quickly and easily. Today, Oris’s pilot’s watch collection is full of watches that delights pilots and watch enthusiasts equally.

The Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition is the latest expression of Oris’s pilot’s watch tradition. The watch has two distinctive features. The first is its alarm, indicated by a central pointer hand with a bright yellow tip. The alarm can be set to the nearest 10 minutes against a scale that runs around the outside of an aperture in the middle of the dial. That aperture houses the watch’s second key feature, a circular date display. Underneath it is a rotating disc with a yellow date marker that makes a full tour of the dial once every 31 days.
As mentioned before, the Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition is aesthetically based on the familiar design of the Big Crown ProPilot. In this case, the watch has two stainless steel oversized crowns, one to set the time between 2 and 3 o’clock, and a second to set the alarm between 3 and 4 o’clock. Both crowns are made of stainless steel and screw to ensure the watch’s water resistance to 10 bar.
Otherwise, the watch retains the recognisable ProPilot look. Its signature bezel motif is inspired by jet engine turbine blades; the classic round stainless steel case and tapered lugs give the watch its stylish gait; and the fundamental dial design elements, such as the straight-edged hour and minute hands and large, luminescent Arabic numerals, remain clear and functional.

The case houses the Swiss Made automatic movement Oris Kal.910.

The Big Crown ProPilot Alarm Limited Edition comes on a dark brown croco leather strap with a stainless steel folding clasp.
Oris will only be making 250 pieces of this watch.

Astronomical Single-Hand Watch: MeisterSinger Lunascope

German watch manufacturer MeisterSingers crafts mechanical watches for people who aren’t interested in counting seconds, but see the bigger picture and want so stay on track. MeisterSinger builds single-hand watches – and follows a longstanding tradition in doing so. Although the movement of the long, single hour hand is hardly noticeable to the human eye, it is as relentless as the passing of time on ancient sundials.
Our division and representation of time always followed the movement of the stars. Even back in the Middle Ages, tower clocks emulated astronomical models, preferring to recreate the mechanics of the heavens on Earth rather than wanting to show single minutes or even seconds. Now, the renowned watch designer is presenting its first astronomical watch – the Lunascope.

The slender 40-millimeter-stainless steel case of the Pangaea family forms the ideal backdrop for the dial with its unusually large moon-phase display. The upper half of the dial features a dynamic cut in which the moon moves across a dark blue, starry background. The generous diameter of this timepiece allows a realistic depiction of even fine details of the moon’s surface – just like when you’re looking up at the full moon on a clear night.

The natural impression of the Earth’s satellite corresponds to the astronomical precision with which the Lunascope presents the moon’s various phases. The moon takes 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds to circumnavigate the Earth. A lot of watches round this figure down to 29.5 days, which means their movements deviate by eight hours per year and need to be corrected by one complete day every three years. The movement specially designed for the MeisterSinger Lunascope is far more exact. Its moon-phase indicator only needs a slight adjustment after 128 years – a short period of time in astronomical terms, but a very long time in the world of watchmaking.
Since the Lunascope comes with a glass back, the Swiss automatic movement ETA 2836 can be viewed. And it provides a power reserve of 38 hours.

MeisterSinger offers the Lunascope in two versions: with a sunburst dial in the dark blue of the moon’s background or with a silvery opaline dial, on which the circular date window at 6 o’clock forms an optical contrast to the astronomical display. Both watches are completed by a calfskin strap.

Unfathomable Precision: The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth

Favre-Leuba can look back at 281 years of brand history. The watch manufacturer is known for creating an interface of traditional watchmaking and the dynamic engineering spirit of today.
In 1968, Favre-Leuba has introduced its vision of the perfect dive watch, the Bathy. It was equipped with a depth gauge and was a milestone in mechanical instrument watches. It is a much sought-after collector’s piece today and the year 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of the Bathy. The perfect time to pave the way for a new legend – and the question, if it is possible to improve on excellence. The answer can be found in the new Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth.

The retrofuturistic design is a deliberate nod to the original 1968 Bathy. From a technical standpoint, however, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an entirely new creation. Its functionality and materials have not merely been improved upon – they have set a new standard. The case design is a homage to its popular predecessor and is complemented by bold, functional colors and easy-to-read hands.

The new case is crafted from titanium and, with its 48 mm diameter, guarantees perfect readability at the bigger dial.

The depth gauge in the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth turns on one of the established rules of watchmaking completely on its head. Never let water get inside of a watch? Quite the opposite. The new Bathy features apertures in the case back that actually invite water inside. It may sound crazy, but it isn’t: these openings are part of the depth gauge, which is hermetically separated from the movement. The concept is based on the compression of a specially designed membrane that is integrated into the case back. Water enters a separate chamber through the apertures, causing the membrane to compress as the pressure increases. A mechanical contact sensor inside the watch reacts to this compression and conveys the information via the hand of the depth gauge onto the dial.
The dive depth is displayed on a nonlinear display via a central hand on the dial. Depths up to 120 m can be measured extremely precisely. The scale for the first 30 m is finer, with two red marks at 5 and 10, where decompression stops may be necessary. The Raider Bathy 120 Memo Depth also features a mechanical depth memory (MemoDepth), which stores the maximum depth reached during a dive. The depth gauge at 3 o’clock reliably displays the value until it is reset via the screw-in pusher at 4 o’clock.

The Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is water-resistant up to 200m, as is the norm for a dive watch. Its optimal range of measurement is 120 m, more than double that of the original Bathy (50 m). A built-in mechanical limiter ensures that neither the pressure membrane nor the depth gauge are damaged if the wearer dives deeper that the optimal range.
Even on ambitious dives to depth where there is little light, all of the relevant information is perfectly readable. Design and features of the Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth are inspired by the belief, that unnecessary difficulties should not get between a diver and the thrill of the dive.

Like every professional dive watch, the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is fitted with an unidirectional bezel. It turns only counterclockwise so that it is only possible to accidentally move the bezel in a direction, which would subtract from the planned dive time.
The watch is powered by the FL321 hand-wound movement. It is based on the EMC 3903M caliber, which has been completely re-engineered by Favre-Leuba. It features a 65-hour power reserve and a power-reserve indicator displayed at 12 o’clock.

The Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth is an extraordinary instrument, inspired by the original Bathy yet re-interpreted and perfected. This watch is an achievement in the development of mechanical instrument watches – and impressively stylish as well.

Die Favre-Leuba Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth ist ein außergewöhnliches Instrument, das einen neuen Maßstab in Sachen Taucheruhren setzt und dabei ihre Impulse von der Ur-Bathy bezieht und diese neue interpretiert. Fantastisch aussehen tut sie außerdem.

German Watches for the Austrian Air Force

The german-based watchmaker Hanhart from the southern Black Forest can look back on a long history in the production of aviator chronographs. So it should come to no surprise, that when a structural change within the Army and the re-establishment of the Command of the Austrian Air Forces in 2017 the Command inspired to design a limited edition of aviator watches, Hanhart was chosen as partner in this project.
The Primus Austrian Air Force Pilot Limited Edition combines the virtues of the Austrian Air Force such as precision, endurance and resilience with the principles of Hanhart: reliability, perfect legibility, ease of use and robustness. This chronograph combines the characteristic features of both sides, which are required for a perfect pilot’s chronograph.

The dial is, like in all Hanhart Primus watches, wonderfully distinctive. The bright luminescent numerals and indexes together with the red Hanhart details create a clear contrast to the black basic design of the chronograph and thereby contribute to a superb legibility. The unique fluted bezel with inlaid red marking, the typical “bicompax” dial arrangement and the anodized aluminium red button reflect the typical features of the watch manufacturer. The chronograph provides central hours and minutes, a small seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a date display at 6 o’clock. The chronograph seconds are  counted by the central seconds hand.

The new timepiece from Hanhart is available in three different versions of case and bracelet. The chronograph can be ordered in a normal, a matt sandblasted or a black DLC coated stainless steel case. Despite the size of 44 mm in diameter and 15 mm in height, the flexible lugs provide a comfortable fit on the wrist. The case of the Primus Austrian Air Force Pilot Limited Edition is water resistant up to 10 bar.
Inside works the automatic chronograph movement HAN3809. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours when fully wound.

The bracelets are available in calfskin, vulcanized rubber and canvas; each comes with a folding clasp made from stainless steel and matching the case.
This chronograph is a limited edition of 100 pieces. Prices start at 2.590€ for the regular stainless steel one and go up to 3.090€ for the DLC coated one.

Girard-Perregaux launches the Laureato Chronograph

Two years after its return to the Girard-Perregaux collections, the Laureato is writing a new chapter in its history, with the introduction of an enriched range of chronographs. In this extension of an eminently sporting chic collection, the Laureato once again demonstrates the strength and relevance of the design of this iconic watch, born in 1975.
This timepiece is designed for daily use. Entirely clad in steel or pink gold, available with two different case sizes and interpreted in three dial colours, the Laureato Chronograph is a versatile watch. Equally at ease in smart or informal attire, it is capable of adapting to every daily circumstance encountered by an elegant man.

The dial, adorned as ever with the “Clou de Paris” hobnail pattern, comes in a choice of silver-toned, black or deep-blue versions. The two counters and small seconds subdial all feature a snailed finish that ensures they stand clearly against the background. They bear simple and slender hands facilitating reading without overloading the dial.
At 6 o’clock you’ll find the small seconds, opposite, at 9 o’clock the 30-minute-counter and at 6 o’clock the 12-hour-counter. At 4.30 you’ll find a date window.

Girard-Perregaux has fitted the emblematic case with a chronograph movement. The Laureato Chronograph is endowed with the powerful identity of all Laureato models. This personality all its own is based on a genetic code that has been driving evolutions in its aesthetic details for the past 43 years, while never distorting its essence. The Laureato is defined by a polished octagonal bezel fitted on an integrated case, meaning with no lugs or loops; as well as by its metal bracelet forming a natural extension of the case and representing an original design element in its own right. The exterior of the Laureato case has evolved to incorporate a crown guard, a curve naturally imposed by the pushers themselves. The latter are octagon-shaped like the bezel, creating protuberances that the Laureato Chronograph incorporates with natural ease.
The stainless steel case is water resistant up to 10 bar, the one made of gold up to 5 bar.

The new Laureato Chronographs are powered by the calibre GP03300-0122/0137/0138 (42 mm) respectively the GP03300-0134/0136/0137 (38 mm). the self-winding mechanical movement drives two counters, small seconds as well as a date display. As well as guaranteeing impeccably accurate timekeeping, the calibre provides a comfortable power reserve of 46 hours and works at a frequency at 4 Hz. Its horological qualities are complemented by exemplary finishing including Gôtes de Genève, chamfering and straight graining. 

The metal bracelet is distinguished by wide satin-brushed H-shaped links as well as domed and polished interlink elements. The interplay of polished and satin-brushed surfaces creates heightened visual interest and enlivens the watch. The Laureato Chronograph can also be bought with a leather bracelet, in this case, Girard-Perregaux also delivers an additional rubber strap.

Hublot Big Bang Depeche Mode “The Singles” Limited Edition

Hublot and Depeche Mode are releasing a collector’s edition series of 55 unique Big Bang watches, inspired by each of the band’s 55 singles. All net proceeds from the sale will benefit charity: water. Hublot and Depeche Mode work together since 2010 – always for the benefit of the NGO.
One of the most influential, beloved and best-selling musical acts of all time, Depeche Mode have sold over 100 million records worldwide and have played to more than 30 million fans since their formation in 1981. And, in their 37-year career, Depeche Mode have released an incredible 55 singles, from “Dreaming of Me” in 1981 to last year’s release of “Cover Me”.
In tribute to this achievement, the Swiss watchmaker Hublot introduces a collection of 55 unique pieces of its Big Bang Unico Model. “We are greatly honoured and moved by Hublot’s support of charity: water with this new collection of watches commemorating all of our singles,” says Martin Gore, Depeche Mode’s main songwriter and founding member. Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, is also thrilled about the collaboration: “Depeche Mode are iconic in the history of contemporary music. We identify with their passion, stronger now than ever, and with their constantly growing creativity. We are lucky enough to share many values with them, including the commitment to the activities of the charity: water NGO.”

As previously mentioned are all 55 models unique pieces, basing on Hublot’s Big Bang. Each of the watches features, on its dial, a disc that partially shows the image of the record cover it represents, which is reminiscent of the very first model produced by the partnership between Hublot and Depeche Mode. The back of each watch features the entire cover of the single as well as the charity: water logo.
The case has a diameter of 45 mm and is made from polished black ceramic. They are water resistant up to 10 atm.
All  Big Bang Depeche Mode “The Singles” watches are powered by UNICO movements. Produced by the Hublot manufacture. The automatic calibre HUB1242 is a flyback self-winding movement chronograph; it works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

Jedes Modell ist mit einem Armband in einer speziellen Farbe ausgestattet.
Die Kollektion ist mit dem UNICO Werk aus Hublots eigener Manufaktur ausgestattet. Das Kaliber HUB1242 ist ein Automatikwerk mit Flyback-Chronograph und bietet eine Gangreserve von 72 Stunden. Es arbeitet mit 4 Hz oder 28.800 Halbschwingungen pro Stunde.

Each piece will be fitted with a strap in a colour specific to each model, completed with cuff straps in the same hue, and rock-and-roll inspired rubber studs.
A Roland JP-08 synthesiser will accompany each timepiece.  The Roland JP-08 is a limited-edition synth module from the Roland Boutique series, paying homage to the legendary Roland Jupiter 8 synth, used by Depeche Mode throughout the years.

Retrograde Shock Waves in the UR-210 Black Platinum

Urwerk, widely known for its unusual watches and exciting time displays just introduced a new version of its UR-210. Nobody can the deny the appeal – and the success – of this model.
Urwerk presents this masterpiece in a black platinum version, in keeping with a tradition held since its foundation. May we introduce: the UR-210 Black Platinum.

You have to keep your eyes glued to the dial as the minute hand approaches the end of its hour. Don’t blink our you’ll miss a display of controlled energy in the lighting return of the retrograde hand as it snaps back to the start of the next hour. The action is too swift for the eye but you hear the sharp click that announces the arrival of the hand on exactly zero. Raw power, masterful restrained and controlled.
The combination of the revolving satellite complication and retrograde minutes is seen nowhere as in the UR-210. The prominent three-dimensional minute hand acts as a high-tech cowling that encloses the hours and carries them in turn smoothly across the minute scale.

The speed of the flyback depends on three key factors: The central hub ensures that the mechanism remains stable and constitutes the rock on which the entire complication rests. A cylindrical spring along the shaft accumulates the power for the retrograde function. The unusual minute hand that acts as a cowling to transport the hours has equally uncommon dimensions. Machined in aluminium, it is perfectly balanced by a brass counterweight. A double co-axial cam in the shape of a star governs the retrograde action. Its gearing and its rotation determine the trajectory of the minute hand.

The dial of the UR-210 Black Platinum also features a power reserve indicator at 1 o’clock and opposite at 11 o’clock there seems to be a second one. But it is, in fact, a similar indication which is also very different. It shows the winding efficiency during the last two hours. This feature is the world’s first! It calculates the energy flow, the ratio between the energy generated and consumed. If you’re sitting comfortably in a chair, not moving much, you’ll see the hand of the winding efficiency indicator move slowly towards the red sector. Then it’s time to adjust the winding rate. The adjuster for this feature is on the back of the watch. If it’s switched to “Full” the rotor becomes sensitive to the slightest motion, on “reduced” it absorbs some of the energy created by the rotor. In the “Stop” position, the UR-210 becomes a manually wound watch.
The calibre UR-7.10 works at a frequency of 4 Hz.

The case is designed in a way that it appears to have reacted to the force of the flyback minutes, developing a series of regular shock waves radiating from the dial. The deep furrowed arcs also accentuate the beautiful hexagonal design of the case which is water resistant up to 3 atm.

The UR-210 Black Platinum is a limited edition of 25 watches.