Baselworld 2018: The New Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi 126710 BLRO

Rolex has introduced a few new watches at the Baselworld 2018 – a new Rainbow Daytona amongst others – but the new GMT Master II Pepsi 126710 BLRO has caused the most stir. Why? Well, it comes with a new movement and a new bracelet, but, most of all, it’s steel. Steel? This is what the fuss is all about? Yes, yes it is.

Rolex already offers other versions of the GMT Master II in steel, but the “Pepsi” was only available in white gold till now. And this is the first time Rolex has introduced a new version in steel and not in gold. Of course, there is a hefty difference in price and many fans and collectors don’t consider a massive gold Rolex quite the everyday piece. That’s different now and with the new GMT Master II Pepsi in Steel Rolex heard the call of the customer, implementing what many wished for.

Rolex has redesigned the Oyster case a bit, also the lugs are a bit slimmer than in the previous models. it is combined with an emblematic bezel featuring a Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic.
Of course, the GMT Master II features two different time zones, making it the perfect wristwatch for the frequent traveller. In addition to conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, which display the local time (the time in the wearer’s current location), the GMT Master II features an arrow-tipped hand which circles the dial once every 24 hours, which is completed in its function by the 24-hour graduated bidirectional bezel.
The adjustment of the local time can be made independently of the minute and seconds hands, and without affecting the 24-hour hand. The time in an alternative time zone can be displayed by turning the rotatable bezel.

The new GMT Master II is powered by a brand new movement, the calibre 3285. This self-winding mechanical movement offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance.
The calibre lies in the classic Oyster case which guarantees a water resistance of 10 bar.

The Jubilee bracelet which completes the new GMT Master II is also new, comes with a sporty look and combines matte with polished surfaces.
This watch comes at 8.400€. That’s a price-performance ratio we can live with.

Always Trending: Chronographs

Since the first chronographs were introduced, they became hugely popular and with good reason. Some feature a tachymeter scale with which lap times can be calculated, some show chronograph hours and minutes, some only minutes. All of them feature subdials and a small second. Apart from these functions, chronographs are also popular because of there sporty looks – but many of them can also be worn to the office without difficulty – they are just gloriously versatile.
We are introducing five of them today.

Two chronographs of Chrono Diamond made the cut. The first one is the Argos, named after the hero of the same name and fellow of Jason from the argonaut myth of Apollonios of Rhodos. And the watch ought to accompany its owner just as reliably. Its design is reduced and simply elegant. It shows hours, minutes, the running seconds at 9 o’clock, the chronograph minutes at 3 and the chronograph hours at 6 o’clock. The Argos shows day and month in two windows at 12 o’clock; the date is shown by a fourth central hand with a small crescent moon tip.
The Argos is powered by a quartz movement and you’ll have the choice between twelve different models: in stainless steel, with gold and pink gold PVD-coating and different coloured dials. All variations come with a leather bracelet.

The Chrono Diamond Nestor stands out with a dial that accentuates the functions of the subdials extravagantly. At 2.30 o’clock you’ll find the running seconds, at 6 o’clock the chronograph hours and at 10.30 the chronograph minutes. At 4 o’clock a small date window is placed. The dial is textured and of course, it bears the for Chrono Diamond characteristic diamonds.
Chrono Diamond offers nine different versions of the Nestor; with dark and fair dials, in stainless steel and with gold PVD-coating, with a metal bracelet or leather strap. All of them are powered by a reliable quartz movement. All-Chrono Diamond watches are Swiss Made.

The Festina Chrono Bike-Line has a longstanding tradition and is a hommage to bicycle racing. So it is no surprise that the watch manufacturer could win Richard Virenque as ambassador. The french road racing cyclist was a climber, winning the King of the Mountains competition of the Tour de France a record of seven times. During his active time he was part of the Festina Team and the partnership between them remains to this day.
The Chrono Bike chronographs come in a variety of designs. The latest model features a stainless steel 44-mm-case, the dial is protected by mineral glass. The subdials for the running seconds, chronograph minutes and chronograph hours contrast sharply with the rest of the dial.

The Longines Conquest V.H.P. comes in many different colours and designs; some in stainless steel and some in black PVD-coating. The sober case is complemented by an articulate dial. Except for the big Arabic 12, Longines opted for plain indices which are equipped with the same greenish lume as the minute and hour hands. Red accents highlight the chronograph functions – the central seconds hand, the hands of the chronograph minutes at 3 o’clock and the chronograph hours at 9 o’clock. The subdial at 6 o’clock shows the running seconds.
The Conquest V.H.P. is powered by an reliable, high-quality ETA quartz movement.

The last chronograph we’re introducing in this feature is the rugged Mathieu Legrand Avant-Garde. This model is for fans of larger, more masculine watches. The indices, the big Arabic 12, as well as the hour and minute hands are generously coated with lume, so perfect readability is given at all times, even in the dark. The chronograph seconds and the subdials are highlighted with colour. At 4.30 you’ll find a big date window.
The Avant-Garde is powerd by a Swiss made quartz movement and comes in four different versions – three with a black, one with a fair dial; in stainless steel, with a PVD-coating in gold or in a bi-colour design.

25th Anniversary: Seiko Grand Seiko 9F quartz caliber

In 1988, the Grand Seiko team made a new quartz caliber that was worthy of the high standards the brand was – and still is – known for. At that time, rapid advances in quartz technology were being made but most were focused on the addition of new functions. The Grand Seiko team though, decided that they could, and should, go further by focusing on the simple essentials of precision and durability. They decided that to be the “ideal” quartz watch, a new caliber was needed that would be even more precise, more durable and more in keeping with the aesthetics of Grand Seiko. Five years later, in 1993, the first 9F caliber, the 9F83, was completed.

The new caliber delivered advances in every aspects. Its hands were as long as those on every other Grand Seiko watch, the calendar change was instantaneous and the durability and reliability was enhanced. Caliber 9F incorporated key innovations such as a backlash auto-adjust mechanism to eliminate any shuddering of the second hand, a twin pulse control system to deliver increased torque and a unique protective shield to minimize the risk of dust coming into contact with the gear train or stepping motor. Still today, the caliber 9F can lay a strong claim to being the highest performance quartz watch in the world.

The new limited edition pays proud homage to the 1993 design. Its case and bracelet retain the soft contours of the original. There are, however, stylistic enhancements. In line with contemporary taste, the case is slightly larger, the Grand Seiko name is now at the 12 o’clock position and the dial carries a special pattern based on the traditional quartz symbol with, above the six o’clock marker, the 5-pointed star which, symbolises the extraordinary precision rate of +5 to -5 seconds a year.
This commemorative watch is offered in a limited series of 1,500 and will be available from April.

A second limited edition also commemorates the 25th anniversary of the caliber 9F. The case design is a contemporary re-interpretation of the celebrated 44GS from 1967 and showcases the beauty of the finishing on the 9F movement through an exhibition case back. The robust construction is clear to see and the striped pattern of the engraving bears witness to the care taken on the finishing on ever 9F movement, which, albeit hidden behind the case back in every other model, is assembled and finished by hand to the same high standard.
The dial, with its special markings and star symbol, is the same as on the first commemorative edition. The bezel is in gold. It is a limited edition of 600 pieces and will be available in May.

The case of both watches is made from stainless steel with a diameter of 39.1 mm and a water resistance of 10 bar.
Both watches are completed by a stainless steel bracelet.

German Watches for the Austrian Air Force

The german-based watchmaker Hanhart from the southern Black Forest can look back on a long history in the production of aviator chronographs. So it should come to no surprise, that when a structural change within the Army and the re-establishment of the Command of the Austrian Air Forces in 2017 the Command inspired to design a limited edition of aviator watches, Hanhart was chosen as partner in this project.
The Primus Austrian Air Force Pilot Limited Edition combines the virtues of the Austrian Air Force such as precision, endurance and resilience with the principles of Hanhart: reliability, perfect legibility, ease of use and robustness. This chronograph combines the characteristic features of both sides, which are required for a perfect pilot’s chronograph.

The dial is, like in all Hanhart Primus watches, wonderfully distinctive. The bright luminescent numerals and indexes together with the red Hanhart details create a clear contrast to the black basic design of the chronograph and thereby contribute to a superb legibility. The unique fluted bezel with inlaid red marking, the typical “bicompax” dial arrangement and the anodized aluminium red button reflect the typical features of the watch manufacturer. The chronograph provides central hours and minutes, a small seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a date display at 6 o’clock. The chronograph seconds are  counted by the central seconds hand.

The new timepiece from Hanhart is available in three different versions of case and bracelet. The chronograph can be ordered in a normal, a matt sandblasted or a black DLC coated stainless steel case. Despite the size of 44 mm in diameter and 15 mm in height, the flexible lugs provide a comfortable fit on the wrist. The case of the Primus Austrian Air Force Pilot Limited Edition is water resistant up to 10 bar.
Inside works the automatic chronograph movement HAN3809. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours when fully wound.

The bracelets are available in calfskin, vulcanized rubber and canvas; each comes with a folding clasp made from stainless steel and matching the case.
This chronograph is a limited edition of 100 pieces. Prices start at 2.590€ for the regular stainless steel one and go up to 3.090€ for the DLC coated one.

Bell & Ross: BR03-94 Horolum & BR03-92 Horoblack

Bell & Ross, a reference in the field of professional aviation watches, with its square iconic shape and graphic lines, launched its Horo line last year with the BR03-92 Horolum. This year, the brand presents two novelties: the BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack. Their name comes from “Horo”, which is a reference to Bell & Ross’ concept using matt micro blasted steel on the boxes and dials and a sandwich dial for an optimal readability.
The BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack reflect the spirit of Bell & Ross instrument watches. The case is designed in a contemporary style boasting the iconic shape of the house, a circle in a square that is reminiscent of the silhouette of a cockpit clock. They both have micro blasted steel caps and dials, which gives them a monobloc effect.

Steel blasting involves high-pressure spraying of tiny glass beads on the metal’s surface. This treatment “depolishes” the surface giving it a uniform appearance and a grey tone. The finish is matte, and therefore, anti-reflective. It also avoids reverberations in the sun. This process reinforces their graphic look and utilitarian purpose. The cases are water-resistant up to 10 atm and measure 42 mm in diameter.
The common feature of both watches is the sandwich construction of the dial, which consists of two superimposed metal plates. The main characteristic of the “Horo” models is the best readability at all times.

BR03-94 Horolum

This chronograph brings to mind light and readability. Super-LumiNova treatment facilities reading during the day and at nighttime. The color used for lighting landing strips, an intense green light that illuminates the tracks in the dark, is also used in the dial. It offers excellent luminescence and night readability. The indexes and giant numbers 12 and 6 are very legible and painted on the bottom plate. With its unparalleled brilliance, the green tinted Super-LumiNova is ultra-phosphorescent and lasts a long time in the dark. It allows a persistent reading during the night hours. The dial has two counters for calculating short times and a tachymeter scale on the flange.
The BR03-94 Horolum is powered by the automatic mechanical movement, the calibre BR-CAL.301. It features hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock; a date at 4.30 and a chronograph for short time periods – a 30-minute timer at 9 o’clock and central chronograph seconds.
The BR03-94 is mounted on a grey-green calfskin strap and is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

BR03-92 Horoblack

This watch features a simple and uncluttered display that features a graphic dial with clear indications. The design is simple. The bar indexes and the four numbers 12, 3, 6, and 9 enable an easy reading. This type of display is a classic at Bell & Ross, and its effectiveness is very well established. The identical finish of the box and the dial establishes a homogeneous block of the same hue. Indexes and hands play on the black and gray contrast, which guarantees optimal readability.
the BR03-92 Horoblack is powered by the calibre BR-CAL.302, an automatic movement which features hours, minutes, seconds and a date.
This three-hands model comes in a limited edition of 999 pieces.

The BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack instrument watches have been designed according to the principles of industrial design. Based on a square case, with pure and simple lines, they return to basics. The contemporary timepieces have their character and evoke the realm of the air: They share a minimalist design, hyper-readability and the micro blasted steel gives them modernity and purity.

Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear

The Regulator was the first stand-alone model in the history of Chronoswiss and in subsequent years, it quickly became the brand’s central motif and standard bearer. It is therefore only logical that the design team pays special attention to the Regulator on its 30th birthday, which is also the 35th anniversary of Chronoswiss itself. Following the 3D dials and skeletonizations of recent years, the manufacturer is now introducing the Flying Regulator Open Gear, a model which provides unexpected insights.

To produce a Regulator, a modification of the movement is necessary. Normally, it is hidden from prying eyes underneath the dial. But in this new version it has not only been made visible but also showcased as a central design element, hence the name “Open Gear”.
Its dial is simultaneously its module board, onto which the train wheel bridges of the skeletonized gears are mounted. These move on four ruby bearings, generating the least possible friction. The train wheel bridges have also been skeletonized and boast carefully angled and polished edges. Six screws keep them reliably in their intended place on the dial. This is how functional design is done.
At 6 o’clock on the dial, the Flying Regulator Open Gear reveals an exciting insight. The dial and the bridge have been skeletonized at the height of the small second so that you can see the second wheel in action. As the associated seconds scale – just like the display at 12 o’clock – floats above the dial on a funnel-like display, the gaze is virtually drawn towards the inner workings and to the seconds wheel, designed to look like a rotary dial.
Super-LumiNova inlays on the hands and indexes ensure best legibility, even in the dark.

Chronoswiss offers the timepiece in four different color combinations: in purist stainless steel with dials in galvanic blue, black or silver, or timeless elegant in a red gold case with a galvanic silver dial.

The Flying Regulator Open Gear is a pure Chronoswiss development – from the design to the dial module.
This watch will only be available as a limited edition.

Retrograde Shock Waves in the UR-210 Black Platinum

Urwerk, widely known for its unusual watches and exciting time displays just introduced a new version of its UR-210. Nobody can the deny the appeal – and the success – of this model.
Urwerk presents this masterpiece in a black platinum version, in keeping with a tradition held since its foundation. May we introduce: the UR-210 Black Platinum.

You have to keep your eyes glued to the dial as the minute hand approaches the end of its hour. Don’t blink our you’ll miss a display of controlled energy in the lighting return of the retrograde hand as it snaps back to the start of the next hour. The action is too swift for the eye but you hear the sharp click that announces the arrival of the hand on exactly zero. Raw power, masterful restrained and controlled.
The combination of the revolving satellite complication and retrograde minutes is seen nowhere as in the UR-210. The prominent three-dimensional minute hand acts as a high-tech cowling that encloses the hours and carries them in turn smoothly across the minute scale.

The speed of the flyback depends on three key factors: The central hub ensures that the mechanism remains stable and constitutes the rock on which the entire complication rests. A cylindrical spring along the shaft accumulates the power for the retrograde function. The unusual minute hand that acts as a cowling to transport the hours has equally uncommon dimensions. Machined in aluminium, it is perfectly balanced by a brass counterweight. A double co-axial cam in the shape of a star governs the retrograde action. Its gearing and its rotation determine the trajectory of the minute hand.

The dial of the UR-210 Black Platinum also features a power reserve indicator at 1 o’clock and opposite at 11 o’clock there seems to be a second one. But it is, in fact, a similar indication which is also very different. It shows the winding efficiency during the last two hours. This feature is the world’s first! It calculates the energy flow, the ratio between the energy generated and consumed. If you’re sitting comfortably in a chair, not moving much, you’ll see the hand of the winding efficiency indicator move slowly towards the red sector. Then it’s time to adjust the winding rate. The adjuster for this feature is on the back of the watch. If it’s switched to “Full” the rotor becomes sensitive to the slightest motion, on “reduced” it absorbs some of the energy created by the rotor. In the “Stop” position, the UR-210 becomes a manually wound watch.
The calibre UR-7.10 works at a frequency of 4 Hz.

The case is designed in a way that it appears to have reacted to the force of the flyback minutes, developing a series of regular shock waves radiating from the dial. The deep furrowed arcs also accentuate the beautiful hexagonal design of the case which is water resistant up to 3 atm.

The UR-210 Black Platinum is a limited edition of 25 watches.

Clear Design: The New Armin Strom Pure Resonance

Armin Strom is known for maintaining a pared-down approach when it comes to watches. This ensures the brand’s style of watchmaking remains focused on its essence. And with every new model Armin Strom heads further in that direction and the new Pure Resonance is no exception. This version too heads further in said direction, squarely placing emphasis on the watch’s most remarkable feature: the visible dual balances oscillating in resonance.

The goal of the Pure Resonance has not changed: to display the interesting resonant balances while improving overall precision. To this end, the twin seconds flyback mechanism of Caliber ARF15 was removed and replaced with one clear-cut subsidiary seconds subdial. The reason for this can be found in the straightforward approach to the movement: the fewer functions a timepiece must perform, the better it can concentrate on accuracy. In other words, with no superfluous functions the watch con focus fully on precisely providing the time.

The dial now offers just subdials for time displays. Roman numerals dominate the off-center subdial displaying hours and minutes in black and blue with blued steel hands, while a classic railroad track marks the exact minutes. The smaller subdial at 7 o’clock displays seconds using only a baton-styled white hand and a simple track.
The resonators are placed at the left side of the dial. The time displays receive their portioned energy from the lower regulator, while the upper regulator remains in place to create resonance.

This conceptual forthrightness is reflected in the design of the movement: the basic calibre ARF16 showcases the resonant regulators and resonance clutch spring. New bridges are decorated with côtes de Genève. The mechanical movement beats at a frequency of 25,200 vph and provides a power reserve of 48 hours minimum.

The outward design of this new Pure Resonance has been kept also pure. The case has a diameter of 42 mm and comes in rose gold or stainless steel. It is 1.4 mm smaller than the original version, comes with reduced lugs and crown and practically no bezel. The characteristic lip at 6 o’clock remains, therefore it can be customized easily.
The case is water resistant up to 5 atm and comes with a leather bracelet.

RJ-Romain Jerome’s Newest Piece: RJ x Spider-Man

RJ-Romain Jerome has once again joined forces with Marvel, one of the biggest entertainment companies in the world. Because that’s what the watch manufacturer does, and does best. The result is another exceptional piece, this time dedicated to the most agile Super Hero: Spider-Man.
Spider-Man has widely spread into pop culture from its first appearance in the early sixties in a comic book to today. He is one of Marvel’s best known and most popular Super Heroes, he is also part of the Avengers, and since the first Spider-Man movie featuring Tobey Maguire in 2002, Marvel is reigning over the Super Hero movie universe with an iron fist.

The RJ x Spider-Man is presented in RJ-Romain Jerome’s elegant Skylab case which follows the rule of a classic round-shaped case with four lugs. Enhanced with the four paws characteristic for Romain Jerome, the all black case, made from PVD-coated steel with a satin-finish, reveals a skeleton movement offering endless transparency. The case offers a diameter of massive 48 mm and is waterproof up to 3 bar.
The intricacy of the model also resides in the different perspectives on the dial and the elements that intertwine – the central, bright red spider-shaped applique, the transparency of the skeleton as well as the web metallized on the sapphire crystal. The timeless spider logo is taking center stage on the dial and is probably the best evocation of the character Peter Parker, whose life changed forever with the bite of a radioactive spider.

The modern 3-layer movement featuring straight bridges and chamfered angles comes from the RJ-Romain Jerome design labs. The calibre RJ004-M is a mechanical movement that works at 28,800 vph and grants a power reserve of 48 hours minimum. It features only hours and minutes.

The RJ x Spider-Man comes with a black rubber strap.
This edition is limited to 75 pieces and every one will cost 20.950€.

L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac

Pursuing its longstanding involvement in celebrating life’s finest milestones as well as honoring traditional Chinese arts, Chopard is taking things to a new level with an extraordinary new one-off creation: the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac. Chopard has created an entirely hand-engraved rose gold case depicting the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac.

With this timepiece, Chopard is further extending the approach that has driven the manufacture to create a yearly edition of the L.U.C XP Urushi. This year, the entire Chinese zodiac is portrayed on the case middle of this stylised unique piece, with a black patina coating adorning rose gold. The 12 signs are individually represented using the champlevé engraving technique where little cavities are hollowed out before being filled with black patina. Of course, the 12 animals are ordered chronologically, symbolising the Chinese calendar. The tiger’s head is perched on the crown while his body fits the case. A dragon and a snake are coiled between the lugs.

The case houses a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and an over one-week power reserve ensured by the four barrels of the Quattro system of the L.U.C claibre 02.15-L. The perpetual calendar  is indicating the complete date while taking account of the variable durations of the months, including leap years.The tourbillon sits enthroned at 6 o’clock on the dial, topped by a polished and blackened steel bridge. By constantly spinning on its axis, it releases the rate of the watch from the influence of gravity.
The solid gold dial of the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac is adorned with a hand-engraved motif inspired by traditional Chinese iconography and also featured on the bezel and the buckle.

We’re sorry to say, that the L.U.C Perpetual T Spirit of the Chinese zodiac is a limited edition of one piece. It will be the object of an exclusive presentation to Asian collectors at a private exhibition in Beijing.