Archiv der Kategorie: Automatic Wristwatches

Mathis Montabon Raises the Bar with a New Swiss Made Watch

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Not long ago, watch manufacturer Mathis Montabon introduced a new model and raised the bar with this one: It’s entirely Swiss made, boasting an automatic calibre. The collection of Mathis Montabon is known for its variety; there are sober dress watches and ladies watches with zirconia-stubbed bezels, ones with partly skeletonized dials or analogue date displays.
But producing a completely Swiss made watch is a first for Mathis Montabon and a critically acclaimed one, too. So, let’s look at it.

The Mathis Montabon Elégance de Suisse presents itself as sober as a wristwatch can be. It is a simple three-hand-watch sporting also a date window. No frills, no experiments, no complications. We all appreciate complex watches with beautiful complications, but purism has its own charm. Mathis Montabon produces five different variations of the Elégance de Suisse – the complete silver coloured is the simplest. This model is also available with a black dial, whereas the black dial is also paired with two bi-coloured cases: stainless steel with gold and stainless steel with pink gold. The line also includes a complete golden version.

Nothing at the dial distracts from the time display. Hours, minutes and seconds are all displayed via central hands. The sunburst dial makes for a beautiful dynamic and the date window at 3 o’clock is framed. All that caters to a really good legibility, and the hands are filled with lume for ensuring legibility is also excellent in the dark.
The indices are argent or – depending on the version – golden, doubling at 12 o’clock. One of the most appealing details is the railroad minute track running around the outer rim of the dial, featuring Roman numerals. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal.

The Mathis Montabon Elégance de Suisse is powered by the Sellita SW 200-1, a Swiss automatic movement known for its reliable work. After being fully wound, it provides a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.
The calibre is housed in a stainless steel case measuring 42 mm in diameter. In the also stainless steel bracelets brushed elements alternate with polished ones, making for an appealing look.
The Elégance de Suisse is officially a men’s watch, but we can imagine, it might be also an attractive choice for many women. Especially with its moderate size.

Limited Edition: Zenith’s Newest Corporation

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Mr. Porter, one of the online destinations for men’s style, has announced that it has partnered with Swiss watch manufacturer Zenith and British watch customiser Bamford Watch Department in creating a new watch. Co-creating a project and product of this nature is a first for all three partners in this undertaking. Mr. Bamford and his team worked alongside Zenith in the design of the watch, which was then entirely developed and produced in-house at Zenith’s Manufacture.

Based on the Zenith Heritage 146 model, the Chronomaster El Primero Mr. Porter takes cues from several of the brand’s historical design elements. These subtle touches include the tachymeter inspired by a 1971 El Primero, a red seconds hand, aesthetic reminders of a vintage chronograph case and centric sub-dial rings hark back to the old Zenith recorder tell-tales and motion detecting clock.
Its unique dial comes in the colour „Solar Blue“, also sporting a terrific colour gradient. The Chronomaster El Primero Mr. Porter comes with a central hour and minutes hand, as with a central chronograph seconds. At 9 o’clock you’ll find the running seconds, at 3 o’clock Zenith has placed the 30-minute-counter of the chronograph. No date window disturbs the beautiful synchronicity and balance of the dial.
The most distinctive feature – and our favourite by far – are the unusual minute-markers and the internal tachymeter scale. The latter makes for a clean, sleek bezel. Above the dial arches a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

The stainless steel case sports an universal diameter of 38 mm and is water-resistant up to 10 atm. The case back is transparent and engraved so the owner can observe the oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève motif.
The Chronomaster El Primero Mr. Porter is powered by the powerful calibre El Primero 4069. It works at a frequency of 5 Hz and provides a power reserve of at least 50 hours.

The Chronograph comes with a blue Alcantara strap featuring white stitching designed to complement the white dial markings.
Each of these 25 limited-edition watches will be exclusively available on Mr. Porter.

Very Vintage, Very Cool: Doxa SUB 300 Searambler „Silver Lung“

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With its iconic black and yellow Aqua Lung logo, the new Doxa SUB 300 Searambler „Silver Lung“ is a hint at the history, the manufacturer shares with Jacques Cousteau as well as at the beginnings of scuba diving. The Doxa SUB was one of the first completely appropriated diver’s watches. First, the model was reissued as an anniversary edition, after that, Doxa introduced the very popular „Black Lung“, and now there’s the „Silver Lung“ edition. The latest model is also the result of a collaboration with Aqua Lung, a french manufacturer specialised in diver’s equipment and co-founded by diver legend Jacques Cousteau.

The SUB 300 Searambler „Silver Lung“ wears, like mentioned before, the conspicuous „US Divers“ Aqua Lung logo at 8 o’clock against the backdrop of its silver sunray dial. The design is based on an old prototype which was never produced.

Water-resistant up to 300 metres and with a diameter of 42 mm and only 12,4 mm in height, the Doxa SUB Searambler „Silver Lung“ sits comfortably on the wrist. Since the dial is relatively small in contrast to the cushion case, the watch appears even smaller. The bezel is sober and doesn’t appear bulky.
The dial comes with loads of vintage charm, not least because of the well-placed orange accents. To achieve an excellent visibility even in precarious light, Doxa used lume on all hands and indices. The dial is protected by a curved crystal sapphire.

The Doxa SUB 300 Searambler „Silver Lung“ is powered by the simple but very reliable ETA 2824.
The watch comes with a beautiful polished stainless steel bracelet. It comes with an extension so the watch can easily slip over the sleeve of a diving suit.

The Doxa SUB 300 Searambler „Silver Lung“ can be purchased at boutiques, but when ordered at doxawatches.com, there’s a 400€ pre-order discount – 2.190€ instead of 2.590.
The Doxa SUB 300 Searambler „Silver Lung“ is a limited edition of only 300 pieces.

Passionate and Glamorous: The New PanoMatic Luna

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Glashütte Original celebrated on the International Day of the Kiss, July 6, 2018, the magic of love and passion. With a special limited edition, that truly comes from the heart, a beautiful women’s watch.
Studded with diamonds and rubies, the PanoMatic Luna proudly wears the colour of love, permitting this mechanical ladies watch to give its classic moon phase display a new, exceptionally enticing appearance.

The dial of the new PanoMatic Luna unites two romantic elements in an elegant composition. On the background of a white mother-of-pearl dial, the softly curved moon in relief and the silver-coloured, starry night sky reveal a poetry all their own. At 2 o’clock, one finds the vaulted opening of the moon phase display. The curve of the moon is the product of great manual skill and attentive diamond milling in the watchmaker’s own dial manufactory in Pforzheim, Germany.
This spectacle of the changing crescent moon is complemented by 18 ruby indexes, which offer luminous red reflections on the opposite of the dial, and serve as a frame for the off-centre hour and minute display. They are positioned together with the small seconds – in classic Pano style – along a vertical axis in the left half of the dial, while the moon phase display and characteristic Glashütte Original Panorama Datum adorn the right side.

What, without the brilliance of the stars, would a romantic night sky be? The bezel on the new PanoMatic Luna is set with 64 brillant-cut diamonds that reflect light with every movement. They form a glamorous frame for the round, 39.4 mm stainless steel case, whose crown is adorned on the right side by a ruby. Sapphire crystal, antireflective on both sides, assures optimal views from the dial side.
Ticking within the PanoMatic Luna is the manufactory’s own calibre 90-12 automatic movement, which can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. The latter opens up the view to the refined decorations on the heart of the watch, and to the coveted duplex swan-neck fine adjustment from Glashütte Original. A great many other traditional elements of Glashütte watchmaking offer irrefutable proof of the origin of the watch, among the the three-quarter plate and characteristic Glashütte decorative finishes.

The watch is held in place on the wrist by a radiant red Louisiana alligator leather strap, which together with a pin buckle ensures a secure and stylish fit. As mentioned earlier, this PanoMatic Lunar is a limited edition of only 50 pieces.

Down in the Abyss with the Hindenberg Diver Professional

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Not long ago, watch manufacturer Hindenberg has presented once more a new, exciting model. And in various different versions. May we introduce: The Diver Professional. The Hindenberg Diver Professional was designed as a serious tool and dive watch. This watch conquers depth up to 300 metres which is significantly more than the average diver needs, nevertheless how ambitious and serious he may be. With this dive watch on the wrist one can calmly face the abyss. The case is made from stainless steel and the teethed bezel can be easily operated even with gloves.

The dial comes with a clear design and a focus on optimum readability. Hindenberg offers three different versions of the Diver Professional – with a white, black or blue dial. The indices are, just like the skeletonised hands, filled with lume, so the time can also be read in the dark. And in the white version, the whole dial glows in the dark. A big date window is placed at 3 o’clock and to enhance its appearance, Hindenberg has opted for a cyclops lens.
The tip of the second hand and the imprint „Automatic“ in red add a welcome splash of colour to the dial.

The Diver Professional also comes with a helium valve. It ensures that potentially bottled-up gases like helium and hydrogen escape slowly when the diver rises to the surface, preventing the watch from being damaged. The valve functions fully automatic.
The diver’s watch is powered by the caliber H-17.430, a highly reliable automatic movement.

As for its measurements, the Diver Professional is not shy. With a diameter of 43 mm and with 14 mm in height, this watch makes a statement on the wrist. On the other hand, it’s not so big that it would be unpractical to wear every day. It’s understated design contributes to that. With the Diver Professional, Hindenberg isn’t providing a dress watch (the Emperor or Ascender in the current collection are happy to do that job), but ever since the invention of business casual, a diver’s watch can be worn to the office as well as on the boat.

Hindenberg offers, like mentioned earlier, three different models, all fitted with stainless steel bracelets or rubber straps. The blue version is completed by a bright blue rubber strap, matching the colour of the dial.

The Mido Ocean Star Collection Has Two New Members

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The Mido Ocean Star Collection got two new nautical-inspired members. The sporty, elegant pieces each have their own distinct personality. Water-resistant up to 20 bar, they are the perfect companion for all fans of nautical activities.
The new Ocean Star is released as two different versions with distinct personalities. To the superficial observer, they may look different, but they are not. The first model sports a bold vintage look and features a sumptuous green grained dial, the second model is inspired by the maritime world and the call of the sea, with its deep blue grained dial.

The dials of both Ocean Star models are protected by a robust 42.5 mm diameter case in steel with elegant polished and satin-finished pink gold PVD treatment. The case is enhanced by a polished aluminium unidirectional rotating bezel in green or blue, according to the model, which features a dot of white Super-LumiNova at 12 o’clock. The sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective treatment on both sides means that the dials can be admired without moderation. The generous touches of white Super-LumiNova on the indexes and hands guarantee perfect legibility in all situations. The skeletonised hour and minute hands are polished and satin-finished with pink gold PVD treatment. A touch of orange Super-LumiNova placed at the end of the seconds hand recalls Mido’s visual identity, while an aperture at 3 o’clock indicates the day and date.

Water-resistant to a pressure of 20 bar, they house the Caliber 80. This latest-generation automatic movement provides up to 80 hours power reserve. The case back has a surprise in store for all marine enthusiasts: it is decorated with a polished starfish in relief – the symbol of the Ocean Star collection.

The straps carry on the colours of the dial. The green one features leather strap that acquires a patina over time, finished with ecru stitching. The blue one is accompanied by a blue fabric strap, reminiscent of boat rigging. Both are fitted with a pin buckle in stainless steel with a polished and satin-finished pink gold PVD treatment.

Marine Torpilleur: Ulysse Nardin is Expanding the Fleet

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Ulysse Nardin has introduced two new wristwatches, doubling its Marine Tourpilleur in size. Classic black or gunmetal grey, these lean clean modern machines are every bit as sleek and stremlined as the navy destroyer class of torpedo boats from which they take their name.
The Marine Torpilleur presents itself as a less formal, more contemporary version of the iconic Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer and is aimed at a younger clientele. Yet it traces its heritage back to innovations of the early nineteenth century. Sometimes, you can have it all.

Initially launched with white and blue dials, the Marine Tourpilleur fleet is now reinforced with two stunning editions: rose gold with a black and gold dial, and a Boutique-only version in stainless steel with a grey dial.
Inspired by Ulysse Nardin’s marine heritage yet fully modernized for daily urban wear, the Marine Tourpilleur is comfortable to wear and easy on the eye. A true COSC-certified chronometer, it represents contemporary watch design in its finest hour – the culmination of generations of craftsmanship and savoir-faire.

Elegantly elongated Roman numerals mark the hours. The graceful, poire-style hands are in rose gold, as are the „Haut“ (high) and „Bas“ (low) indications of the power reserve. The small seconds counter at 6 o’clock encircles the date window and the „1864“-logo – a nod to the year the house was founded. The dial is is framed by a thin flange and protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

The 42-mm-case has been completely redesigned, with lighter, more elongated lugs and a thinner, fluted bezel. The crown is screw-down and engraved with the Ulysse Nardin logo. The watch is water-resistant up to 50 meters.
The Marine Torpilleur is powered by the Marine Chronometer’s in-house UN-118 calibre. This automatic movement provides a power reserve of up to 60 hours and can be seen through the open case back.

Ulysse Nardin fits these watches with color-coordinated alligator straps.

Time for Change with the New Bremont Waterman

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Bremont adds a striking and technical dive watch to its collection, the Limited Edition Bremont Waterman. The mechanical chronometer follows an impressive line of marine predecessors which have built a reputation for durability and precision within the range. Bremont has worked closely with the world renowned free-diver, adventurer, big-wave surfer and ocean environmentalist, Mark Healey, in testing this new timepiece.
Limited to 300 pieces, the beautifully engineered new Bremont Waterman incorporates a GMT hand and features deep-blue applied indexes on the dial.

Waterman uses the core S500 watch architecture as chosen by multiple military units and explorers all over the world. The open Sapphire backed 500 m water resistant case, helium release valve, anti-shock vibration mount and scratch resistant sapphire uni-directional bezel make it a watch that can be tested to extremes.

The dial is neat and very readable. Hands and indexes are equipped with Super-LumiNova, making it easily readable in the dark. The blue and white theme makes for very a nice look. At 3 o’clock you’ll find a date window, and the forth hand, the red one), provides the second time zone, the GMT function.

The Waterman comes with a satin and polished stainless steel case which features an uni-directional rotating bezel like all dive watches. You’ll also find an automatic helium escape valve and a crown protector. The case is water resistant up to 50 atm, which makes it a serious tool, suitable for almost every dive.
Inside lies the modified calibre 11 1/4“‘ BE-93-2AE, an automatic chronometer. This movement at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a 42-hour power reserve. The modified and skeletonised rotor can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back; a rarity in dive watches.
The Bremont Waterman is completed by a rubber or kevlar strap, both blue, to accompany the colors used in the dial and bezel.

With more than 5 trillion pieces of plastic currently littering our oceans Bremont and Healey were keen to support a charity close to home for Mark with the release of its latest dive watch. A percentage of proceeds from all Bremont Waterman sales will go towards „Sustainable Coastlines Hawaii“. By doing so, the all-purpose Limited Edition diving watch hopes to add to the increasing awareness of the issues that our oceans are facing all over the globe.

Anniversary Watch: Meister Chronoscope Terrassenbau

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Junghans introduced an anniversary watch last month to mark the centenary of an architectural masterpiece by Philipp Jakob Manz. The terrace building in Schramberg is one of the most spectacular industrial buildings worldwide to be built on a sloping site. At the beginning of the 20th century there was an increasing requirement for workplaces in the already cramped valley in Schramberg. The nine-stepped terrace building was built directly on the slope, in less than two years. As a result, each watchmaker could benefit from direct daylight at the workplace. For decades, the building was the centerpiece of the Junghans factory.
2018 sees the monument to industrial architecture celebrates its 100th birthday, with 100 years of architectural history commemorated with a special timepiece – the limited edition Meister Chronoscope Terrassenbau.

Junghans offers two different versions of this watch and both incorporate the distinctive elements of the industrial monument in Schramberg into their design: the minute track of the dial reflects the meandering design of the wall decorations in the terrace building, whilst the dark green of the wall tiles in the stairways can be found in the alligator leather strap. The case back delivers a direct view of the architectural work: an engraved image of the terrace building.
Hours, minutes and the chronograph second are shown by central hands. The running second lies at 9 o’clock, the 30-minute-counter at 12 o’clock and the 12-hour-counter at 6 o’clock. The hands are coated with Lume and the dial is protected by a convex hard plexiglass with coating for enhanced scratch resistance.

Inside the Meister Chronoscope Terrassenbau watches works an automatic movement, the J880.1. It offers a power reserve of up to 48 hours. The cases feature a diameter of 40.7 mm and are water resistant up to 3 atm.

With a limited edition of 100 examples, the Meister Chronoscope Terrassenbau features a gold case. Inspiration for the champagne-coloured dial with the three matt silver subdials was the stairway of the terrace building, which are in beige and white. The stainless steel version is limited to 1,000 watches and has a silver-plated dial.

Baselworld 2018: The New Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi 126710 BLRO

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Rolex has introduced a few new watches at the Baselworld 2018 – a new Rainbow Daytona amongst others – but the new GMT Master II Pepsi 126710 BLRO has caused the most stir. Why? Well, it comes with a new movement and a new bracelet, but, most of all, it’s steel. Steel? This is what the fuss is all about? Yes, yes it is.

Rolex already offers other versions of the GMT Master II in steel, but the „Pepsi“ was only available in white gold till now. And this is the first time Rolex has introduced a new version in steel and not in gold. Of course, there is a hefty difference in price and many fans and collectors don’t consider a massive gold Rolex quite the everyday piece. That’s different now and with the new GMT Master II Pepsi in Steel Rolex heard the call of the customer, implementing what many wished for.

Rolex has redesigned the Oyster case a bit, also the lugs are a bit slimmer than in the previous models. it is combined with an emblematic bezel featuring a Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic.
Of course, the GMT Master II features two different time zones, making it the perfect wristwatch for the frequent traveller. In addition to conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, which display the local time (the time in the wearer’s current location), the GMT Master II features an arrow-tipped hand which circles the dial once every 24 hours, which is completed in its function by the 24-hour graduated bidirectional bezel.
The adjustment of the local time can be made independently of the minute and seconds hands, and without affecting the 24-hour hand. The time in an alternative time zone can be displayed by turning the rotatable bezel.

The new GMT Master II is powered by a brand new movement, the calibre 3285. This self-winding mechanical movement offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance.
The calibre lies in the classic Oyster case which guarantees a water resistance of 10 bar.

The Jubilee bracelet which completes the new GMT Master II is also new, comes with a sporty look and combines matte with polished surfaces.
This watch comes at 8.400€. That’s a price-performance ratio we can live with.