Hamilton Celebrates a Century of Evolution in Aviation

The Swiss watch manufacturer Hamilton is synonymous with aviation and is celebrating 100 years of timing the skies with a limited edition watch this year. These watches represent the very best of Hamilton.
Based on the original Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono, the 2018 Limited Edition is packed with aviation features for pilots and offers a technical perspective including the ground-breaking crosswind calculator of the original. Accuracy, innovation, a taste for adventure and a focus on precision have all contributed to making Hamilton the choice of professional aviators to accompany them in the cockpit.

Thanks to newly shaped hands and Super-LumiNova numerals in sand colour that glows neon green in the dark, the watch has enhanced readability. The multilevel black dial allows the eye to navigate between the three counters, the day date window at 9 o’clock and the turning inner bezels. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. The x-shape visible between the pushers and crowns surrounding the case completes the multi-dimensional theme.
With the crosswind calculator on the turning bezel, the Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono Limited Edition represents the very best of aviation timekeeping from Hamilton.

The Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono Limited Edition features a 45 mm stainless steel case which is water resistant up to 10 atm. Inside works the H-21-Si, the first Hamilton chronograph movement with a silicon hairspring. This material makes the movement more precise as silicon is non-magnetic and less sensitive to shocks. The former is an important feature for pilots because they often stay in environments with high magnetic fields such as airports. In addition, the movement has been precision certified by COSC as a chronometer.

The Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono Limited Edition is limited to 1,918 individually numbered pieces, and adorned with a H-buckle and a sturdy leather strap in typical Hamilton aviation style. There is also a metal bracelet for those who prefer a full steel look.

German Watches for the Austrian Air Force

The german-based watchmaker Hanhart from the southern Black Forest can look back on a long history in the production of aviator chronographs. So it should come to no surprise, that when a structural change within the Army and the re-establishment of the Command of the Austrian Air Forces in 2017 the Command inspired to design a limited edition of aviator watches, Hanhart was chosen as partner in this project.
The Primus Austrian Air Force Pilot Limited Edition combines the virtues of the Austrian Air Force such as precision, endurance and resilience with the principles of Hanhart: reliability, perfect legibility, ease of use and robustness. This chronograph combines the characteristic features of both sides, which are required for a perfect pilot’s chronograph.

The dial is, like in all Hanhart Primus watches, wonderfully distinctive. The bright luminescent numerals and indexes together with the red Hanhart details create a clear contrast to the black basic design of the chronograph and thereby contribute to a superb legibility. The unique fluted bezel with inlaid red marking, the typical “bicompax” dial arrangement and the anodized aluminium red button reflect the typical features of the watch manufacturer. The chronograph provides central hours and minutes, a small seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a date display at 6 o’clock. The chronograph seconds are  counted by the central seconds hand.

The new timepiece from Hanhart is available in three different versions of case and bracelet. The chronograph can be ordered in a normal, a matt sandblasted or a black DLC coated stainless steel case. Despite the size of 44 mm in diameter and 15 mm in height, the flexible lugs provide a comfortable fit on the wrist. The case of the Primus Austrian Air Force Pilot Limited Edition is water resistant up to 10 bar.
Inside works the automatic chronograph movement HAN3809. It works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power reserve of up to 42 hours when fully wound.

The bracelets are available in calfskin, vulcanized rubber and canvas; each comes with a folding clasp made from stainless steel and matching the case.
This chronograph is a limited edition of 100 pieces. Prices start at 2.590€ for the regular stainless steel one and go up to 3.090€ for the DLC coated one.

Bell & Ross: BR03-94 Horolum & BR03-92 Horoblack

Bell & Ross, a reference in the field of professional aviation watches, with its square iconic shape and graphic lines, launched its Horo line last year with the BR03-92 Horolum. This year, the brand presents two novelties: the BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack. Their name comes from “Horo”, which is a reference to Bell & Ross’ concept using matt micro blasted steel on the boxes and dials and a sandwich dial for an optimal readability.
The BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack reflect the spirit of Bell & Ross instrument watches. The case is designed in a contemporary style boasting the iconic shape of the house, a circle in a square that is reminiscent of the silhouette of a cockpit clock. They both have micro blasted steel caps and dials, which gives them a monobloc effect.

Steel blasting involves high-pressure spraying of tiny glass beads on the metal’s surface. This treatment “depolishes” the surface giving it a uniform appearance and a grey tone. The finish is matte, and therefore, anti-reflective. It also avoids reverberations in the sun. This process reinforces their graphic look and utilitarian purpose. The cases are water-resistant up to 10 atm and measure 42 mm in diameter.
The common feature of both watches is the sandwich construction of the dial, which consists of two superimposed metal plates. The main characteristic of the “Horo” models is the best readability at all times.

BR03-94 Horolum

This chronograph brings to mind light and readability. Super-LumiNova treatment facilities reading during the day and at nighttime. The color used for lighting landing strips, an intense green light that illuminates the tracks in the dark, is also used in the dial. It offers excellent luminescence and night readability. The indexes and giant numbers 12 and 6 are very legible and painted on the bottom plate. With its unparalleled brilliance, the green tinted Super-LumiNova is ultra-phosphorescent and lasts a long time in the dark. It allows a persistent reading during the night hours. The dial has two counters for calculating short times and a tachymeter scale on the flange.
The BR03-94 Horolum is powered by the automatic mechanical movement, the calibre BR-CAL.301. It features hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock; a date at 4.30 and a chronograph for short time periods – a 30-minute timer at 9 o’clock and central chronograph seconds.
The BR03-94 is mounted on a grey-green calfskin strap and is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

BR03-92 Horoblack

This watch features a simple and uncluttered display that features a graphic dial with clear indications. The design is simple. The bar indexes and the four numbers 12, 3, 6, and 9 enable an easy reading. This type of display is a classic at Bell & Ross, and its effectiveness is very well established. The identical finish of the box and the dial establishes a homogeneous block of the same hue. Indexes and hands play on the black and gray contrast, which guarantees optimal readability.
the BR03-92 Horoblack is powered by the calibre BR-CAL.302, an automatic movement which features hours, minutes, seconds and a date.
This three-hands model comes in a limited edition of 999 pieces.

The BR03-94 Horolum and the BR03-92 Horoblack instrument watches have been designed according to the principles of industrial design. Based on a square case, with pure and simple lines, they return to basics. The contemporary timepieces have their character and evoke the realm of the air: They share a minimalist design, hyper-readability and the micro blasted steel gives them modernity and purity.

Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Open Gear

The Regulator was the first stand-alone model in the history of Chronoswiss and in subsequent years, it quickly became the brand’s central motif and standard bearer. It is therefore only logical that the design team pays special attention to the Regulator on its 30th birthday, which is also the 35th anniversary of Chronoswiss itself. Following the 3D dials and skeletonizations of recent years, the manufacturer is now introducing the Flying Regulator Open Gear, a model which provides unexpected insights.

To produce a Regulator, a modification of the movement is necessary. Normally, it is hidden from prying eyes underneath the dial. But in this new version it has not only been made visible but also showcased as a central design element, hence the name “Open Gear”.
Its dial is simultaneously its module board, onto which the train wheel bridges of the skeletonized gears are mounted. These move on four ruby bearings, generating the least possible friction. The train wheel bridges have also been skeletonized and boast carefully angled and polished edges. Six screws keep them reliably in their intended place on the dial. This is how functional design is done.
At 6 o’clock on the dial, the Flying Regulator Open Gear reveals an exciting insight. The dial and the bridge have been skeletonized at the height of the small second so that you can see the second wheel in action. As the associated seconds scale – just like the display at 12 o’clock – floats above the dial on a funnel-like display, the gaze is virtually drawn towards the inner workings and to the seconds wheel, designed to look like a rotary dial.
Super-LumiNova inlays on the hands and indexes ensure best legibility, even in the dark.

Chronoswiss offers the timepiece in four different color combinations: in purist stainless steel with dials in galvanic blue, black or silver, or timeless elegant in a red gold case with a galvanic silver dial.

The Flying Regulator Open Gear is a pure Chronoswiss development – from the design to the dial module.
This watch will only be available as a limited edition.

Retrograde Shock Waves in the UR-210 Black Platinum

Urwerk, widely known for its unusual watches and exciting time displays just introduced a new version of its UR-210. Nobody can the deny the appeal – and the success – of this model.
Urwerk presents this masterpiece in a black platinum version, in keeping with a tradition held since its foundation. May we introduce: the UR-210 Black Platinum.

You have to keep your eyes glued to the dial as the minute hand approaches the end of its hour. Don’t blink our you’ll miss a display of controlled energy in the lighting return of the retrograde hand as it snaps back to the start of the next hour. The action is too swift for the eye but you hear the sharp click that announces the arrival of the hand on exactly zero. Raw power, masterful restrained and controlled.
The combination of the revolving satellite complication and retrograde minutes is seen nowhere as in the UR-210. The prominent three-dimensional minute hand acts as a high-tech cowling that encloses the hours and carries them in turn smoothly across the minute scale.

The speed of the flyback depends on three key factors: The central hub ensures that the mechanism remains stable and constitutes the rock on which the entire complication rests. A cylindrical spring along the shaft accumulates the power for the retrograde function. The unusual minute hand that acts as a cowling to transport the hours has equally uncommon dimensions. Machined in aluminium, it is perfectly balanced by a brass counterweight. A double co-axial cam in the shape of a star governs the retrograde action. Its gearing and its rotation determine the trajectory of the minute hand.

The dial of the UR-210 Black Platinum also features a power reserve indicator at 1 o’clock and opposite at 11 o’clock there seems to be a second one. But it is, in fact, a similar indication which is also very different. It shows the winding efficiency during the last two hours. This feature is the world’s first! It calculates the energy flow, the ratio between the energy generated and consumed. If you’re sitting comfortably in a chair, not moving much, you’ll see the hand of the winding efficiency indicator move slowly towards the red sector. Then it’s time to adjust the winding rate. The adjuster for this feature is on the back of the watch. If it’s switched to “Full” the rotor becomes sensitive to the slightest motion, on “reduced” it absorbs some of the energy created by the rotor. In the “Stop” position, the UR-210 becomes a manually wound watch.
The calibre UR-7.10 works at a frequency of 4 Hz.

The case is designed in a way that it appears to have reacted to the force of the flyback minutes, developing a series of regular shock waves radiating from the dial. The deep furrowed arcs also accentuate the beautiful hexagonal design of the case which is water resistant up to 3 atm.

The UR-210 Black Platinum is a limited edition of 25 watches.

Baselworld 2018: There Will Be A New Breguet Tourbillon

The wait is almost over for fans and manufacturers of watches – the big exhibitions of the year are almost here. The SIHH is literally just around the corner and then it won’t be long before Baselworld. Breguet just hinted that they will introduce a new tourbillon model at Baselworld.
Breguet will enrich its Grandes Complications collection with the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique in a “Grand Feu” enamel version.

The addition to the Classique Grandes Complications collection Ref. 5367 provides a beautifully simple interpretation of the tourbillon, which reigns supreme on a minimalist dial. The information has been deliberately pared down to essentials in order to give the mechanism the full attention it deserves. Contrary to reference 5377 presented in 2013, this new edition has no power-reserve indicator.
In order to draw the gaze to the key element, Breguet has opted for a graphic hand-bevelled tourbillon bar, topped by a spinel. The likewise blue Breguet hands strike a powerful contrast with the immaculate whiteness of the traditional enamel, thereby ensuring perfect legibility of the hours and minutes. The chapter ring with Breguet Arabic numerals is off-centered at 11 o’clock and thus directly facing the tourbillon at 5 o’clock. This display layout is reminiscent of the watches created by A.-L. Breguet, which revolutionised the aesthetic conventions governing the timepieces of their era.

While the appearance of this Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique model is extremely understated on the front, its movement is nonetheless richly decorated and hand-engraved, to be seen through the sapphire case back. The calibre 581 comprises a balance oscillating at a frequency of 4 Hz while maintaining a comfortable 80-hour power reserve.

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 with its “Grand Feu” enamel dial is available in rose gold or platinum versions, respectively fitted with a brown or blue alligator strap.

Sneak Peek: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time

Time flies. It’s not long till Christmas and after that the SIHH and Baselworld next spring will be just around the corner. Vacheron Constantin is among the first watch manufacturers giving a sneak peek on what to come. Fans and admirers can look forward to the new Overseas Dual Time. This watch is equipped with an in-house movement, featuring two different time zones.
This watch is dedicated to combine a particularly user-friendly handling with high performance and practicality. The Overseas collection embodies a modern lifestyle resolutely open to the wider world and the new Dual Time joins the adventure equipped with the eponymous function presenting a complication much favoured by globetrotters.

The Overseas Dual Time model is designed to ensure reliable, pleasant and elegant wear in every circumstances. its new mechanical self-winding movement, the Vacheron Constantin calibre 5110 DT, stems from several years of development and enables simultaneous reading of two timezones by means of coaxial hands. This 234-component movement oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz and has a comfortable 60-hour power reserve thanks to its twin barrel that also ensures its high regularity and accuracy.
The hours hand indicates the local timezone corresponding to the user’s current location, while the hand tipped with a triangular arrow shows the time in a reference timezone, generally known as “home time”. The Overseas Dual Time features a 12-hour display along with a day/night indication set to home time, and a pointer-type date display, adjusted and secured via a pusher at 4 o’clock and synchronised with local time.
Both time zones are adjustable via the crown. In position one you have the local time, in position two the home time. The translucent lacquered dial is adorned with luminescent gold hands and hour markers as well as a double graduation bearing the minutes and second scales.

The dual time calibre is housed in a 41 mm-diameter steel case which is water-resistant to 150 metres. The new Overseas model continues a tradition of elegant, relaxed watches designed to offer their owners a combination of comfort and user friendliness. The bezel is evoking Vacheron Constantin’s famous Maltese cross emblem.
There will be three different versions: two in a stainless steel case with a blue or argenté coloured dial, one in a pink gold case, also with an argenté coloured dial.
Presented on a stainless steel bracelet with half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links, the Overseas Dual Time is delivered with two additional straps matching the shade of the dial

Girard-Perregaux: The New Ceramic-Clad Laureato

For the first time in its history, the Laureato is welcoming a new version entirely clothed in black ceramic: the Laureato 42 mm Ceramic. Thus attired, the iconic Girard-Perregaux casual chic watch takes a walk on the dark side, but only to further enhance its charisma and its strong presence.
Like fans already know, the Laureato has a personality all its own. Its genetic code drives evolutions in various details of its appearance, while never distorting its essence.

The Laureato is defined by a polished octagonal bezel fitted on an integrated case, meaning with no lugs or loops. The use of ceramic further enhances its ergonomic qualities. This high-tech material is at once light, scratch-resistant and extremely well tolerated by the skin.
As horological icon, the Laureato continues playing with contemporary codes. This architectural watch adopts this new material like a natural extension of its nature. It absorbs the structural and ergonomic benefits of ceramic and applies them to the service of wearer comfort. Black in watches is an absolute fashion color and manufacturers like to chose it for more robust models and it suits the Laureato as if it were born that way. The interplay of polished and satin-brushed surfaces creates fascinating depth effects and enlivens the watch even when such a deep shade of black.
The case is water-resistant up to 100 metres.

The also black dial of the Laureato deeply impresses with a stunning Clou de Paris-hobnail motif which adds a three-dimensional structure. Hands and indices are enhanced with luminescent material and the date on its black disc is also white, adding up to an ideal legibility. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal.
The Girard-Perregaux is powered by an automatic movement, the GP01800-0025. This calibre works at a frequency of 4 Hz and provides a power-reserve of approximately 54 hours.

In donning a ceramic mantle in the darkest shade of all, the Laureato displays the strength and relevance of its design – leger, elegant and classic. And the quality Girard-Perregaux delivers is always beyond doubt. So what’s not to like?

Breitling: Bentley GT “Dark Sapphire” Edition

Breitling has introduced a new, limited wristwatch, a homage to the new Bentley Continental GT. With its ultra-light chassis made of Breitlight enhanced by bluish “Dark Sapphire” tints, this watch is a vibrant tribute to a magnificent car. Accordingly is this timepiece equipped with an efficient engine, a 30-second chronograph.
Bentley presented the third generation of the Continental GT at the Frankfurt Motor Show 2017, redefining the quintessence of Grand Touring. The car is a new interpretation of the classic Bentley design that is long and sharp-edged, with a new optimised 6-litre W12 TSI engine, state-of-the-art onboard equipment, a refined and beautifully hand-crafted interior.

The limited edition by “Breitling for Bentley” marks the occasion by launching a limited edition reflecting the entire spirit of the new Continental GT. The ultra-light, ultra-sturdy case is made in Breitlight, a Breitling-exclusive high-tech material distinguished by its qualities. It resists to scratching, traction and corrosion, is non-magnetic, non-allergenic and is thermal stable. is subtly black streaked effect takes on a bluish shimmer echoing the colour of the Bentley “Dark Sapphire”. The dial features a diamond motif picking up the pattern appearing in several areas of the Continental GT interior and dashboard controls.
The case measures 48 mm in diameter and is water-resistant up to 100 metres.

The motorisation of the Bentley GT “Dark Sapphire” takes the form of a Manufacture Breitling B06 calibre officially chronometer-certified by the COSC. This movement was entirely developed and produced in the Breitling Chronométrie workshops. It is distinguished by its ingenious 30-second chronograph system, inspired by a 1926 Breitling patent, with a central hand completing a full sweep of the dial in half a minute – thus ensuring extremely accurate readings of times to the nearest eight of a second. This feature is highlighted on the black dial by a blue measuring scale, picking up the subtle shades of the case. The calibre is working with a frequency of 28.800 vibrations per hour and guarantees a 70-hour power reserve.

The watch is fitted with a specially created rubber strap, bearing the same diamond motif as the dial.
The Bentley GT Dark Sapphire Edition is a 500-piece limited edition.

New Timezone: Oris Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer

Oris has a Worldtimer in his collection since 1997. Its design and functions were so popular amongst fans and watch afficionados that Oris hasn’t changed much over the course of these 20 years. But we won’t deny that the name might be a little confusing because classically, this feature would be classified as a second timezone and not as a world time function. It came with a sub dial for the second timezone including a day/night indicator and was easy to read. This original watch featured plus and minus pushers on the side of the case that when pressed adjusted the local time forwards or backwards in one-hour jumps, without the need to pull out the crown or stop the running of the watch. The date would keep track of the time adjustment, even if that meant going backwards over midnight.

In the new Big Crown ProPilot Woldtimer Oris has maintained the original design overall while taking the world time complication to a new level. Basically, this watch has the same functionality as the 1997 innovation, but now the pushers are cone and local time is adjusted by rotating the bezel. Rotating the bezel clockwise moves the central hour hand forward in one-hour jumps; counter clockwise back, also in one-hour jumps.
The design is a little cleaner due to the disappearance of the pushers and the new Worldtimer sports a Big Crown ProPilot case, therefore belonging to Oris’ pilot’s watch collection. It features the signature coin-edged bezel that makes it easy to grip when adjusting local time. The dial measures generous 44.7 mm in diameter and falls somewhere in the middle of the collection which cases range from 41 to 47 mm. The dial is very legible through its size and clean design. Over the dial lies a domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
The case is water resistant up to 10 bar.

Oris offers two versions of the Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer. The first has an anthracite dial and a polished top ring on the bezel, the second has a black dial and a brushed top ring. The day/night indicator is still there; it is placed in the sub dial for the second timezone, opposite the date window. When the small window is light it is day in the second timezone, at night the window appears dark.
The watch is powered by the Oris Kal. 690, which is based on the ETA 2836-2. It can be seen through the mineral glass in the case back. The calibre features, as mentioned, an adjustable hour hand for local time, a subsidiary second time zone with hour and minute hands as well as a day/night indicator at 3 o’clock, a date window at the same position, and small seconds at 9 o’clock.

The Big Crown ProPilot Worldtimer comes with one of three different straps. The leather and textile strap feature a stageless length adjustment system that’s based on the airplane safety-belt principle. Naturally, there will also be a stainless steel bracelet.
Oris is known for its great price-performance ratio and the new Worldtimer is no exception. The watches with the leather and stainless steel bracelet cost 3.400€, one with a textile bracelet costs 3.200€.